May 2011
Hi all. I am fixing my ka, so far changed oil + coolant + air filter + 4x spark plugs + ICV
Spark plugs were the biggest b!tch, rusted to hell in the endura engine and wouldn't budge, took days of vinegar + some brake fluid to get them free without snapping, phew! Car is really smooth now, no noises, APART FROM...
Oil is leaking fast, internally i suspect as no external oil leak is viewable or pool collects. When the engine runs it is white smoke at idle which gets worse with revving. Also drips out the exhaust are constant. What I want to know is how likely is it the head gasket that is blown and not the cylinder head, really don't want to get a new cylinder head. Anyway to prove this?
Also am I right in saying the head gasket can be replaced without removing the engine (endura)?
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Any help is appreciated Read more
Check out this at the Ford Owners site - very good, detailed photographs. Good luck
Hija anyone out there got any images of a Toyota Previa/Lucida/Estima Dashboard 1997 model.
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Try this site
Help...
I have a Mondeo 1.8 petrol (sci) estate. runs fantastic , temp always sits in the middle of the gauge, performance fine but the heater will only blow cold air, i can switch through the temp range but no change just cold air. I have followed another thread and reset the climate control and had no error codes present, both heater pipes from bulkhead seem to be warm to hot and no evidence of any contamination in the expansion tank.Has anyone any ideas before i have to dig deep and visit fords Read more
May be worth disconnecting the battery for 10 mins.This may clear the "lock up"of climate panel.I had similar problem on my 01 mondeo and this usually fixed it.Btw, there is no hot/cold valve on this model.hth
Many thanks to all comments, have reset control panel to no effect, removed kick panel under drivers side and side panel to heater access and removed the bottom actuator, where i have found that due to age the shaft was not seated in the torq drive correctly and had worn to the extent that it would not connect to the control flap, used an old mastic gum ( good tip) cut off the handle end and created a hex torq that fitted, checked flap and it was ok and not siezed. Have modified the actuator shaft so have a tighter fit, put back together and all working ok. Now have hot air......Did also find a sensor under drivers side panel that was totally covered in dirt and gunk so gave that a good clean out also.
I'd like to ask what everybody thinks about this idea of raising speed limits on motorways to 80mph? From what ive read there are many interesting points to it. There will always be road safety organisations like Brake (who are essentially a propaganda organisation) who will obviously say this is wrong and more people will die, fact. But of course lower speed limits are in their interest so they cannot be relied upon for a balanced argument and will only provide selective facts. Others will say it'll cut traffic and ease congestion.
I'll start off with what makes me think its a bad idea. Such as encouraging people who already far exceed the speed limit to drive faster is a bad idea. Faster speeds can lead to more accidents although research still shows that the UK's roads are among the safest in Europe. However it also shows our speed limits are among the lowest in Europe too, now obviously other factor's come into accident rates but smart money says the correlation between lowest speed limits in europe and safest roads in europe is not a coincidence or an accident. To have everybody drive faster and expect the safety levels to remain the same is a flawed policy.... Read more
In Spain where the speed limit on motorways has been reduced from 120 kph (74.6 mph) to 110 kph (68.4 mph) the following has been reported this week:
"...the lower 110 km/h speed limit on Spanish roads has affected the demand for petrol which is down by 9% since its introduction. Diesel demand over the first three months of the year was down 5.8%."...
The model is Avantgarde with normal ( not airmatic) suspension.
I have a dull rattle sound from the front left suspension going over bumps etc.
I've looked at the ball joints, could'nt move them with a pry bar but, there is some vertical play in the wheel.
Drop links , again no movement.... Read more
Drop links or the bushes that mount the subframe on the front both are prone to wear both cheap to fix.
I have owned my Prius for 12 months now, and appreciate that it does not have the economy advertised - but no car has. Your review points out that some deisels perform better - but the Prius does not suffer the problems associated with diesels when used for shorter journeys. In the May 14 column (Grapes of wrath) you mention about being overcharged for oil. After my first service, I found a can of oil in the car - when I asked why, I was told this was complimentary, and to ensure the correct oil was used between services if needed. I am very happy with my Prius. Read more
The Mazda 5 7 seater is the Prius+'s (MPV) nearest competition. It has 1485 liters of capacity with the seats down.
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Person "X" buys a replacement component "C", supplied by parts reconditioning company "PartCo". The part is guaranteed for a year. Garage "G" fits the part - it turns out to be faulty - indeed, it was supplied faulty.
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OK, thanks for your help - looks like "end of".
The car was bought from new, has done 20000 miles and serviced by audi at 19000. At the weekend whilst attempting a hill start, I couldnt select a gear, and the car started slipping backwards. I somehow managed to get enough purchase on it to get to the brow of the hlll where I had to coast down to the bottom and call audi assist. They ended up towing me home and Audi collected the next day. The car was drivable again by then, but tthe clutch didnt feel right. Audi have inspected it and said the clutch has burned out through overheating and therefore will not be replaced under warranty. I am at a loss to understand how this has happened to a relatively new, recently serviced car, that I believe I drive very carefully. I was sat in traffic on the hill but only a few minutes. Could it be that the gearbox failed due to mechanical failure and the effort of trying to selectting a gear to prevent sliding back caused the burnout? Why did the clutch/gearbox work the next day if it was burned out? Any advice gratefully appreciated.! Read more
Very easily done with light hydraulic clutch actuation. In this respect simple cable operated clutches are better, the clutch pedal is usually so heavy that you don't slip the clutch unless you really intend to. That said, the dead pedal is there for a reason.
I propose to have the timing belt changed on my 04 Xzara Picasso 2.0 HDi at 75,000 miles. Should I have the running pulleys and the water pump changed at the same time and should I use a main agent (for protection against subsequent failure) or an independant (for economy)? Read more
Have the whole kit fitted, you'll kick yourself round the park if the water pump fails virtually wrecking the engine.
Have you phoned around the (family preferably) dealers within say 50 miles for a quote, that's what i shall do with our Citroen....
How many miles has it done. It could be valve stem oil seals, the HG or all manner of things. Run the engine and remove the oil filler cap, is the engine pressurings as this could be a blocked breather. Regards Peter