September 2008
Hi, I would be very grateful if anyone could have a read and offer any advice.
A few nights ago I pulled away from the lights and suddenly just lost power, the car started jolting and shaking etc., and the engine warning light came on. When I took the car to my local garage the next day he/the computer diagnosed a misfire on the number 3 cylinder which he said could be down to the spark plugs and plug leads needing to be replaced or the coil pack. The plugs and leads being the cheaper option he did this.
After I picked the car up it was miles better but when I put my foot to the floor there still seems to be a hesitation/power loss but the engine light isn't on. I've spoken to the garage and he says to run it over the weekend to see if there's any change and if not bring it in and they'll put it back on the computer to see if anything comes up.
Is it likely to be a problem with the coil pack, or does anyone have any other ideas/advice? It would be much appreciated.
Cheers. Read more
Mate of mine is looking to get a runaround for his other half. He's got a 1K budget (maybe a bit extra for the right motor). The criteria are:
Focus-ish size
Ultra reliable
Ideally under 60K miles - no more than 80K miles
I was thinking along the lines of Toyota Corolla / Honda Civic / Nissan Almera - Any others to consider?
Any engine options to go for / avoid within the cars selected? Read more
How about a Mazda 323?
Still a good looking car, legendary reliability and within budget to boot.
I figure it would be polite to carry this one on in a separate thread :-)
>>I can't say I've ever seen anything like this. If you are not exagerating then I can only assume the one you've seen was an isolated case.<<
Maybe you havent seen enough cars then. I clean a 645i which has the surface peeling off round the i drive, same on a 520i and again on a 535d.
The 535d has just 35k on the clock and the ashtray is broken, the glovebox catch needs a helluva slam to get it to catch and the door handles have worn through the original surface.
The 520i has two broken cup holders that tend to rest under the passenger seat these days and the plastic moulding on he drivers seat has come adrift.
On all these cars the leather on the drivers seat had worn and surface flaked off.
I work with car interiors every day and its is a peculiar issue that seems to also occur on Audis and to a lesser extent VW's. Any area that gets even moderate impact with a human being seems to deteriorate rapidly.
Its why a BMW 645i is not only ugly, but a huge disappointment qualitywise and why if that is the standard of so called quality cars, id rather have a cheap one thanks!
I actually like german cars and the image of them, I really do, but they can be shockingly fragile when subjected to normal day to day use. It seems to be this devotion to rubberised finishes thats is the problem as they appear to be covering up hard plastic beneath, which after a short while is what you end up with anyway. Read more
Maybe german cars are made of Kryptonite, however, it would appear they buy it from the Russians...
Please can anyone help ???...I am trying to locate the indicator relay and fuse on my mother in law's Mini. Thanks
{subject header made less vague} Read more
Screwloose, Thanks, I will check and the brake lights when next at the in-laws,cheers Bri.
Useful advice
news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/england/suffolk/7599233.stm Read more
This had me curious enough to call and ask for advice on this as it has also been in the local press of late with the targets being foreign truckers & drivers using the ports in Hull & Grimsby.
I have today spoken with the controllers in Humberside police and this was the response,
A simple but very clear 'thumbs up' and a reduction of your speed will suffice to show you are willing to yield and comply with the request to stop. But you do have a ?certain degree? of how far you can drive before it becomes a potential fail to stop issue ? seen as either having passed one police, a populated area or a petrol station.
I asked about motorways and remote or secluded areas and the response was the same. So long as you clearly acknowledge the presence of the ?police vehicle? and proceed a sensible distance (service station etc) & stop then that is acceptable.
If you see a marked police car - flashing your lights and sounding your horn means you need assistance and (if heard & seen) they will respond.
I was also advised that winding your window down ½? and asking for the ID card produced to inspect yourself & asking for the control room telephone number is not an issue in Humberside. If you don't have a mobile on you, so I was told, the officer will even hand you his forces one for you to dial the number on to verify his status.
Again I was told that a genuine unmarked police car will stay (should) far enough back from you to see the number plate on the vehicle and the sun visors will be flipped down and showing POLICE and STOP on them.
They advised very strongly NOT to go to a private home just in case no one was present.
Most common make of (traffic) un marked car in Humberside that will be asking you to stop are: BMW, Subaru, Mitsubishi (Evo 9) and Volvo's.
Peugeot 306 1.9 D-Turbo 1997 Phase 2.
Hello there,
I'm using the supplied 7 core towbar cable to wire into the electrics of the vehicle.
Does anybody know the colour code of the existing wires and which ones should be 'plumbed' into.
Many thanks,
Gary. Read more
Thanks Andy,
I'll try that.
I did my initial driver training whilst in the forces.
The first ever car I drove was an (1970's) Escourt Estate.
Upon learning the core basics and spending many ours driving around a disused airbase near Beverley East Yorkshire - I was then put in to a Bedford 7.5t and let loose on the roads! I took my dual car & HGV 3 test in this vehicle.
I then progressed from there to HGV 2 evetually on to HGV 1 vehicles taking a dual HGV 1 + 2 test.
I have also taken & passed my motorcycle, PSV and tracked vehicles licences but you don't get many employment opportunities for tank drivers in civvy street do you?!
Read more
What a lot of "youngsters" you are!!! I started to drive in 1956 when I bought a wreck of a 1949 Standard 12 saloon during the Suez political crisis, when holders of Provisional Driving Licences were lawfully authorised to drive without an accompanying qualified driver.
The Coventry bombsite garage where I bought the car ( mind you - most of Coventry was a bombsite then, since very little rebuilding had occurred since the blitz) dumped it outside my RAF Married Quarter front door. I then set off that evening round the Warwickshire country lanes and somehow driving just came naturally (I tell myself)
However, since I was then in an RAF post requiring the holder to drive a car ( and I quote "Cars up to a maximum speed of 60 mph", I was attached to a three week course at RAF Weeton (near Blackpool) where under the tutoring of a civilian instructor, two "pupils" shared the use of a Standard Vanguard saloon, complete with a three forward gears steering column gear change. It was quite a powerful beast for its day!
After "qualifying" on a nearby airfield to drive on public roads, tuition was from 08.30 to 12.30 and 1.30 to 4.30 pm five days a week for some 2.5 weeks. I saw more of Blackpool than I care to remember - up and down the Garstang Road was my favourite hate, I remember!
I can hear you saying "how could anyone fail to pass the test " but some did! Fortunately, I didn't.
My boot lid is not closing. Warning light switched on whilst i was driving. Tried closing the boot manually did not work. Any suggestions?
{Volume lowered - ie, amended the SHOUTING!} Read more
The electric actuator in the bootlid will be the most likely suspect in this case. You will need to remove the bootlid trim panel and access the actuator. you should then remove it and try and work it manually back and forth by hand as well as applying a lubricant. It may free off.. It may not..
If you can't free it off, you could leave the actuator AND the trim panel off and you could then close the boot. This will then mean that the car is now secure.
When you get a new actuator, lean into the boot through the back seat and manually open the boot. you can then rebuild the bootlid and it should then work, but make sure you try it before you refit the bootlid trim as this will make it easier to open from the inside should there be a fault
Hope this helps
Congestion charges, cameras everywhere, records held on computers internationally, etc etc. what is next? I hear Gps systems to track us and charge for mileage done are muted. I know some transport firms track their vehicles to keep an eye on the driver by Gps. Not a huge step to tracking the rest of us! What do you think could be brought in? Technology semes a mixed blessing, we have the best cars ever but are also under more technolgy driven restrictions. Read more
........... penalty points for wearing a
Pringle jersey denims if you're over 40 and trainers in gaudy colours.
There'll be no points for me on that score.
Dear HJ,
I'm a 51 year old married man with 3 adult children, currently driving a 3 year old Panda 4x4 Climbing in Dry Turquoise with a bright yellow interior which my son already calls "The Gaymobile".
I thought I could resist but, now that FiatSupaSaver have knocked £2500 off the price, I'm falling in love with the Panda Cross in Goa Orange with an interior in a mixture of black and bright orange. It has a completely mad and pointless plastic fitting running the length of the roof and rear light units like rocket motors.
What's happening to me? Am I insane or is it just my hormones?
Advice needed urgently, best wishes, Chris. Read more
It's all "coming out" now eh ?
;-)
Yes; that sound pretty much spot-on.
I'd always fit the genuine article - takes around 10 minutes.