April 2008
Hi all,
I have a hot starting problem with my Corsa. When it's completely cold it starts first time with no throttle. Once the car is warm or even just run for a few minutes it's very hard to start. It will start eventually but wont even fire until you push the throttle way down. It will then catch but misses a lot until you can get the revs up. After that it runs fine. This has been getting slowly worse over the last few weeks, in the last couple of days it sometimes cuts out from tickover and again will only restart with loads of throttle and then runs rough for awhile. The injection light doesn't come on.
So far I've replaced the plugs, leads, cap, rotor arm and air filter. I've recently replaced the temp sensor in the inlet manifold.
I've found a few post with very similar symptoms but no definite results and ideas on what to swap next?
Cheers,
Brian Read more
There is a flap in one of the twin tail pipes on my 1999 328i. I understand that the flap should be closed at low revs and open up at higher revs. The flap on my car is stuck in the open position. Will this affect the performance / driveability of my car in any way? Read more
So it's just for noise; there's nothing new about that - I remember a similar cable-operated gizmo on a pre-war Bentley that diverted the exhaust past the silencer.
Having read the review of the Toyota Auris , it seems the top spec models come with the rear windows tinted as standard. Why do people want this? It ruins the look of the car and serves no purpose. I remember when it signified that you had a car that was imported from Japan. Anyone care to explain why this is becoming increasingly popular. Read more
UV is stopped by glass, tinted or metallised or not.
Hi, we have an R reg 1.7 Puma and have had a problem with the engine overheating. I have deduced its coolant flow problem as the i have removed the thermostat and replaced the water pump. With car at fast idle for 5 mins or so the radiator is stone cold but the engine very hot, the temp guage fluctuates from mid way up to hot and back down and when i felt the top rad hose (near the engine) i could feel water boiling and bubbling from within the engine.
With the top hose off the radiator and the car running no coolant comes out the rad even though the rad is full of coolant and also no coolant is reaching up to the heater matrix (i've taken hoses off and they are dry).
If I take the hoses off the radiator and pour water in the top it flows out the bottom, likewise on the engine- water flows through the block indicating no blockages.
Can someone help as i'm pulling my hair out as to what it could be.
Rob
{year added to subject header. Make/model removed from it as gets included when you make your choice from the drop down menus} Read more
i recently bought a used Puma and it seems to have the same problem. the temp gauge will go right into the red for a moment and then come down to just above the half way mark. am taking it in to the garage and will say about the heater control valve, really dont want to be told its the head gasket or something like that
I am considering buying a 320i SE Saloon from my local BMW dealer. Its a 55 plate registered in November 2005 and has done only 7500 miles. Should I be concerned that it has only done a few thousand miles in over two years? Price is currently @ just under 16k....is this a good deal or would I be better off with a higher mileage diesel?
Many Thanks Read more
I had one of these on a 56 plate from new for 1300 miles. It was thirsty but didnt offer the performance to match its thirst.
Buy a 325i instead.
What car experiences have you had that seemed fantastic at the time, but when considered now, in the cold light of day in 2008, seem much less so?
At a time when few people near us had cars, (well really only my father with his Morris Traveller and the rather anal head teacher next door with his Ford Anglia) a mates father took us to the *Bobs in Manchester in a V8 Ford Pilot.
Over the Snake Pass in that wonderful old charismatic motor, which felt like it would do twice the speed of any previous car experienced.
The shock was looking up the facts today (wikipedia)
3,622cc sidevalve v8, top speed 82MPH, 0-60 = 20.5 seconds and 17MPG
Contrast that inefficiency with figures from today.
Times change perhaps with memory `gold plating` the experience.
But what car experiences have you had where the rose tinted specs suddenly fell off in later years?
Regards
*Bobs
A roller coaster in Manchester in the 1950s built entirely of wooden beams and planks.
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First car(?) 1965 Ford Anglia van with 1600cc crossflow engine;
Next, Mk 2 Ford Cortina 1600 GT with full leather interior;
Next Mk 1 RS 2000 Escort with Ford AVO blueprinted engine;
Next Ford Capri RS3100
Next Ford Cortina Mk2 Jeff Uren Savage
Next - married and Mk2 Escort estate and downhill all the way since then..........
I've got a DVD recorder, for use with the TV. If the drive's faulty, can I just slot in another that "does the same thing", and reasonably expect it to work? Read more
Saves a lot of time now.
Having lost a key, I ordered a replacement and booked in for programming with a respected ex Rover dealer in W. Yorks. Upon arrival at garage my remote worked, my window switches worked, my heated rear screen switch worked etc.
After an hour or so the techie. came in and announced 'your remote doesn't work, both existing key AND new key.' In addition, the electric window switches on drivers door had reversed ( drivers operated passenger and vice versa) and the heated rear screen switch remained on. I staed that all was OK when I arrived and this was confirmed by the gent at reception who had driven my car into the workshop.
The techie. insisted that nothing he had done could have caused these problems and that the receiver unit behind the dash was faulty. Another bloke stated that water may have entered a relay or control unit. Despite my protestations that I felt tehe garage was responsible for the faults, I was obliged to pay £171.00 for the privilege of a new key and manual locking etc.
Has anyone heard of this or had a similar problem. If so what is the solution (cost effective if possible).
Yes, I appreciate that it would have been cheaper NOT to get a new key. Yet another lesson learnt.
Help please.
Tonypreston
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I am able to report that my local Rover specialist diagnosed a knackered BCU/body control unit. They advised that they might not be able to reprogram the two remote keys as I did not have the bar code info for either key.
I gave them the go ahead and am pleased to say that, not only are the electrics/electronics working again, but both remote keys were successfully programmed.
Total cost of diagnostics and repairs in the region of £235. Not as much as I expected. Luckily I am covered by a twelve month Hondacare warranty and have just had confirmation that my outlay will be reimbursed.
Thanks all for the tech advice and comment.
Tonypreston
I will try and keep it as brief as possible so here goes the story.
We bought a 2004 MG TF 160 in October last year for £9K from a local used car centre. The car had done 4,000 miles, however it is backed up with a service history supporting it was a thrid car doing 5-600 miles a year.
Now it has had 4 owners and we were the 5th, however I at the time didnt see it too much a problem and was assured by the salesman it wasnt unusual nowdays with dealers registering first and especially with sports cars as they can become wrong purchases for people. (made sense)
The car was PDI'd in October 2003 by the supplying dealer but not registered until March 2004. The guy who owned it before me purchased it in December 2004 so has had 2 owners in 9 months!!
Anyway, back to the problem. Recently cleaning the car I had noticed the front drivers wheel arch starting to rust on the edge of the lip and found a 3 inch round scab on the drivers sill a thrid of the way down. After complaining to the garage they are not interested as the warranty we had only covers mechanical and not bodywork.
I have since had it insepcted by 3 different bodyshops and they have confirmed that it has had a new wing, door and more worryingly an outer sill welded on half way down and a full side respray which incidentally I can now see doensnt match the rest of the car. (colour is anthracite and its very slightly lighter than the original). Its the new part of the sill that has rust on it as there is no protection underneath - the otherside has the bobbly paint to stop stone chips etc.
The garage did HPI it and so have I and it has come back clear. They dont want to know or help but I am now left with repairs of hundreds to get it resprayed, wax injected etc and a replacement wing.
Can anyone suggest where to go from here and if I have any comeback on the local dealer?
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I've seen new cars subject to bodyshop repairs before the first owner picks them up without the owner knowing. It happens to a lot more cars than the public would ever think.
Having had someone drive into the back of my Focus in late Feb, I eventually had a new bumper fitted by Ford. I went on holiday a week later leaving my pride and joy in the hands of a certain airport parking company.
On returning I noticed a scrape on the previously prestine bumper just behind the N/S rear wheel arch on the plastic mouldings and a scuff around the reversing light/fog surround.
They took photos at the time, and have now produced photos of the car at the time it was left at the said company. The quality of the produced photos is extremely poor, making it very hard to see any visible damage at the time I left the car. However they claim damage can be seen, this in an area that obviously has dirt etc being behind the wheelarch. They also have no close up image of the rear of the car to identify any damage to the rear mouldings which surround the reverse light.
From a legal point of view where do I stand with this? In my eyes the images they have provided do not provide enough detail to rid themselves of liability for the damage to my vehicle. I am keen to pursue this for the full cost of a new bumper, which one week prior to my holiday cost £330 at Vospers Ford.
Appreciate you didn't name the company but a word you chose to describe it - from whcih a reader may have drawn a conclusion removed.
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On the basis that the said company have now admitted liability for this incident....I am now a happy customer (barring the fact they scratched my car). Insurance assessor out within 1 working day, and repair hopefully approved asap at my choice of garage.
I guess the reccomendation for these airport parking companies goes with those who take pictures on the way into the premises!
Browse
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That fixed it :-)))
Cheers,
Brian