Hi
Am looking to change coolant on recently aquired 1998 glx 1.9 dt
Haynes mentions removing the cylinder block coolant drain plug when draining out old coolant
It says its on the rear of cylinder block
Can anybody be a bit more specific or is it pretty obvious?????
Cheers in advance
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It's on the back of the block, flywheel end. Almost impossible to access with the driveshaft fitted! When i changed the rad in my Xantia TD I took one look at it and left it. I got >7 litres of the 9 in cooling system out anyway, so I wasn't that bothered.
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best to drain it via the radiator plug instead.
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I agree. Leave it and drain from the bottom hose. Hose out everything, and refill with antifreeze. If you move it you might stir up trouble to get a bit more water out. Not really worth the balance of risk.
I once did once, and all that was in there was clean water from the power flush with the garden hose.
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Hi,
I have a 1999V 1.8 XS 306 and want to change the coolant.
If i drain from bottom of radiator and open expansion valve and other bleed points to help drain i presume this will be sufficient to drain most of coolant.
To flush the system, do i just put a garden hose on the expansion valve (top up) bottle and let it run clear out of the bottom of radiator? How does this flush the system tho? Wouldnt i be better shutting all drains again after draining and filling with water then draining again or will all the crap collect at the lowest points?
When i'm re-filling do i have to mix water and anti-freeze before pouring into the system and is it right to shut the bleed valves as they prime?
Do i have to run the engine at all with the heater on full? I've heard this someone but dont understand why.
Thanks
Rob
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About heater full on.
Some mysterious cars have a valve that lets the water from the engine pass through the cabin heater. This valve opens when you put the heater on. Other cars blow cold air and just divert it through the hot pipes when you turn the heater on.
Either way it can't do any harm to do it. Specially since its winter.
Check that it does blow hot. If it doesn't it could mean an air lock in the heater circuit.
Edited by andrewuwe on 19/11/2009 at 13:57
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I agree with the comment made on the whole.
It is however essential to have the temperature on the heater to full as this will get rid of any air locks and allow flow through the heater matrix. As for the cylinder drain plug forget it. There is a pipe between the expansion tank and the head, in the middle you will see a little dust cap and you remove this. also at the bulkhead next to the brake fluid resevoir on the right you will see another awkward one remove that too.
On refilling you will hear a hiss as water fills the circuit wait until the jets from the removed caps run clear and bubble free. Its also a good idea to use a largish header tank you can, say 2 to 3 litres and tape it onto the neck of the expansion tank. Use insulating tape as the expansion bottle is lower than the top bleed hole and will help force the air out.
Regards
John
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