April 2008
I've just picked up a pair of these (Two pairs because they didn't have my 400mm, 530mm combination packs, although they had various other combinations).
I notice the rubber leaves a black residue on my hands. Do BRs suggest I remove this, and if so what with?
I got them to replace the really annoying judder and screech on the existing ones, at only four quid a pair, I thought it was worth a go.
Read more
I have a 1988 EFI 3.5 Range Rover, which has developed the sort of
fault that drives one to drink (well, I can't drive the car so I might
as well)
It starts well from cold, and runs fine. When hot tho' it doesn't
want to know. Leave it 15 minutes and it will start again instantly.
I've changed the ECU for a spare and the symptoms are unchanged. I
suspect the answer is quite simple - once one knows what it is. My
suspicion is a sensor related to temperature is telling fibs to the
electronics. The question is, is this a fault that is familiar to
anyone, and can someone suggest which component(s) to change first
(and where they are)?
Oh, one other point! there is a cold start injector on the plenum
chamber. When I had starting problems a couple of years ago (finally
traced to unclean connector on the ECU) someone on here told me to disconnect it.
I did so, and the thing has started perfectly ever since - until now.
I've also taken the obvious step of cleaning the ECU connector again.
Any ideas, anyone????
Yn amlwg nad ydych yn deallt Saesneg, felly cesio yn y Gymraeg ichi roid manylion y peiriant a'r blwyddyn gwneuthuriad. Read more
Just bought a 1988 classic that had this problem. There is a sensor at the back of the engine that has 2 wires going to it. These wires come from a relay that is positioned to the right of the engine bay (sitting on its own). I do not know the tech bit about this sensor, but apparently it was a short lived mod and now is not on later models. To cure the problem I just shorted out the 2 wires as the sensor is normally closed. If this sensor prematurely goes open circuit it cuts off the fuel supply. Have tried to find a replacement sensor but they do not seem to be available .
Ive just received a notice of intended prosecution for a week ago, stating I was doing 50 in a 40 zone (in Staffordshire) I remember seeing the van and looking at the speedo which showed just over 45 .
Now given that the most speedo's are set out of sync (as proved by anyone who compares it with the speed showing on a satnav), what is the process if I want to challenge this would I have to attend court ?
Any previous experience from people out there would be great.
Thanks
Richard Read more
ye I know they are the guidelines. lets hope for the best.
Hello,
my 306 is often, not always idling around 1600-2000rpm. I have taken it to my usual garage who diagnosed Idle Control. They replaced the idle control valve. The idle speed is still doing the same thing.
I spoke to Peugeot who say this is a common fault with the 1.4 and 1.6 models and that with these problems they have encountered before the throttle body has had to be replaced.
Can anyone tell me if this expensive and if the information Peugeot have given me is correct?
My garage said no ECU fault codes were showing so does this mean the ECU is OK or should I be more worried?
Thanks All Read more
Thanks for the responses guys.
I looked in my Haynes manual for coolant temp sensor. My 306 has air con and according to the Haynes book the temperature sensor goes to the dashboard temperature gauge.
Can anyone shed a bit more light on this please?
Thanks
Hi all - looking to buy a Mazda 5.
Hoping someone can confirm: avoid sports model as they are the ONLY models to suffer excess tyre wear...?
I think my 'ideal' model is a 55-56 2.0 D in TS or TS2 or Furano guise....
Looking at £10k. Read more
I purchased a Mazda 5 sport in September 2005, tyre wear back and front was horrendous, one even blew out after the garage re-alligned wheels.We got so fed up that we traded it in and on the garage's assurance that the problems were solved, bought another one.
This was a big mistake, same problem all over again, garage dismissive and says all MPV's are the same.
We shall not be buying another Mazda.
we have a 2000 golf cabriolet colour concept which when warm keeps cutting out. The rev counter drops to zero, the oil light flashes then the battery light flashes and car dies. You have to stop the car, key out and then re start it but as engine gets warmer it cuts out more frequently. Read about relay 109 and garage said mine doesnt have a relay 109 and told me to change relay 30 which i did but it still isnt fixed ?? any ideas please would be greatfully recieved ?? its totally random but when cars cold in the morning you can drive it for about 20 mins before the fault starts
The volume in the subject header has been turned down! Also added the year & engine info as per the 2 ignored sticky posts Read more
My wife's X-reg colour concept cab is doing same thing. Did you ever get it sorted? Runs fine until Oil temperature reaches 76 degrees then conks out & won't restart until cooled down for at least 30 mins. RAC man was called the first time & he said it had a spark and fuel was being delivered. Still had to tow me home though!
So far I've changed the spark plugs, plug leads, coil lead, coil, ECU relay, fuel pump relay, crank position sensor, distributor, distributor cap and the rotor arm. ...
hi there , ive lost my mother in laws electronic fob for her 2004 nissan micra , ( in the dog house )
can anyone tell me how much they are to replace?
cheers claire Read more
These people may help - at a price!
www.autolocksmiths.net/
Hi,
Got a intermitent problem with my car. Basically I notice that now and again the headlights quickly flicker and at the same time I hear a relay click on and off in the dash. Something in the BSI I suspect.
I also notice the following when the car is doing this:
1) The engine seems to be a little rougher.
2) If at idle increasing the revs to 1000 or above caused the relay to click.
3) At 1000 revs and above the engine hunts slightly, maybe by 25-40rpm every 2-3 seconds.
4) The rear demister doesn't click the relay when the button is pressed. (It does normally)
Everything else such as internal lights, fans and such seem fine.
I'm kind of seeing a pattern when it happens, it seems to happen every 400 miles (90% motorways) or so, based on the last 3 occurances. And seems to last 12-13 miles or so before the clicking/flickering/very slightly rough running stops.
It didn't happen when I took it to peugeot and there were no error codes !
Any idea's ?
I thought it might in some way be related to the regen of the FAP but why this would effect lights and the BSI I would have no idea.
Cheers
Steve Read more
Phoned pug dealership today and explained the full problem as I now know it, expected them to go, oh yes thats such and such. No such luck the engineer said he'd never heard of this problem before so I guess I'll need to try and get my timing right and get it in when its happening which won't be easy.
Hi,
im trying to find out exactly what needs changing at 32k miles on my 2.0 diesel zetec climate tdci, is it a diesel filter? i have tried ringing my local ford garage but they aren't being helpful, they just want me to book it in, but i want to try and find somewhere cheaper to have it done, ford have quoted £276.00.
Any information would be gratefully received.
Thanks Read more
Hi,
How do i know if my car has a DPF?
My car was serviced end of Jan '08 and the mileage was approx 26k, its now 31.5k.
I think the garage was just trying to make more money out of me because at the time of the service they rang and said why not have your diesel filter changed and i asked when it should be changed and they said 32k miles and i said no way as i wasnt near 32k yet, plus the extra £276 on top of the service charge was a bit too much to stomach.
So are you saying that these filter changes should be included as part of the service cost and not an extra charge on top of the service charge?
sorry if i am asking daft questions!
Hi all,
I hope someone here can help with my locking problem.
The rear driver side door wont unlock on my laguna. I can hear the mechanism working when I press the key card but no joy. The central locking button by the hand brake does'nt unlock it either. Could it be a case of a WD40 injection or should I go to my Bank manager for a loan to get a Renault garage to sort it out??
Any help is greatly appreciated. Read more
Hi,
...


>>..this will leave a waxy residue on your glass>>
Which is the main reason I don't use Wash 'n Wax type products when cleaning my car.