January 2008
Hi,
My brother has a vw golf gti, R reg. A while back the drivers side electric window stopped working, apparenlty the mechanism is fine but it needs a new electric motor, so far he hasnt had quotes for this part for less than 80 quid which seems a bit excessive to me? he's been told they are very rare but surely some one mass produces them fairly cheap? does anyone know of any good internet sites or retailers that sell such a motor for a reasonable price?
{year, etc added to subject header as per ignored requests to do so}
Thanks in advance,
{You're welcome} Read more
does anyone know of a diesel mechanic that can tune up a 3.0 turbo diesel hilux surf in the redhill, surrey area? not long had a new head fitted and she smokes a bit more than she should!
{sigh. I wish I was paid a penny for every edit I have to perform because people don't read the sticky messages, or other prompts asking for year and engine size to be INCLUDED in the subject header - grrrr} Read more
Hi
Can anyone help with my problem please (Peugeot 306 Meridian 1.4 S reg petrol)
The ECU light on my my peugeot 306 intermittantly comes on and the engine jutters, but only after travelling on a motorway for about half an hour. The light goes off again but the engine continues to "jutter". The problem then suddenly clears and may not occur again at all on the rest of (or the return) motorway journey.
I took the car to a diagnostic test station who told me the lamda oxygen sensor and the idel valve had both logged codes
Does anyone know if Lamda sensors fail intermittantly like this or is the fault likely to be the idle valve. I'm wondering if it is the idle valve because when this problem first started (on a motorway journey) I kept stalling after I came off the motorway (traffic lights etc) and found this was because the idle valve was completely closed. I took the idle valve off the car and slowly pushed the plunger open a bit and this cured the stalling at junctions. The car also seemed to idle around the correct speed.
If it could be the idle valve, could someone explain why because I don't understand why a problem with this should affect the running of the car at speed -
Thanks for any help
Tony
{yet another subject header requiring attention because the sticky posts, etc were ignored!}
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These have a totally unique [nobody else wanted to know after this fiasco] "phase detection" system, that takes the place of a simple cam position sensor that everyone else uses.
It analyses the shape of the "feedback ringing" in the low-tension of the coilpack to determine which cylinder of the last pair of sparks actually fired and which was wasted. This means that the coilpack [a very high-voltage risk area] has to be connected to some very sensitive parts of the ECU. [Ignition areas are normally well firewalled.]
If anything other than genuine Peugeot plugs are used, it upsets the coilpack and can lead to backspiking. NGKs seem particularly bad for this. When it says use only OE parts in the handbook - on this one it means it. [Good policy anyway.]
Fit that Bougicord coilpack; four new extensions and genuine plugs; if it's fried the idle circuit, get your own ECU repaired by BBA etc. to avoid coding hassle.
I posted this over in Discussion but BRoomers just thought I was mad and/or making it up. Seems nobody had heard of it.
In both my Land Rover and my Mercedes factory workshop manuals there are references to washing paper air filter elements.
This seems to me to be a good way to extend the service life of the element and reduce costs (and landfill).
Has anybody ever done this?
The LR Defender Tdi maintenance section says (only for elements not contaminated with oil or carbon deposits): soak the element for 15 to 60 mins in a solution of automatic washing machine detergent and water. Rinse in running water. Allow to dry naturally and dry fully before fitting. Do not attempt to clean a V8 air filter element. It must be renewed.
The Mercedes W460/ W463 (G-wagon) manual states: blow out with compressed air first, soak for 10 minutes at 40 degC in washing solution specified in Service Products Specification Sheet 370 (which I can't find). Rinse in washing solution for 5 minutes, rinse in clean water till no further dirt emerges, shake out water and dry at max 60 degC. This can be done a maximum of three times thus extending the change interval to 40,000 miles or 2 years (which ever comes first).
"NOTE: Air filter elements without perforated metal covering are not to be cleaned, these must always be replaced."
This is not refering to K&N-type filters or oil bath filters but so-called paper ones.
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You generally replace air filters at 40,000 miles or two years anyway (usually the two years comes first) so the Merc recommendation is pointless.
Hello,
I am thinking about purchasing one of these cars later this year and would like to know what sort of ownership experiences people have had. I am thinking about buying one around a year old, and probably will go for the 1.6 VVT engine. Most likely, this will be in SXi, Design or one of the special edition trims.
I would be particularly interested in views on this engine as it does appear to be new-ish, so would like to know if there are any problems, usual fuel consumption etc. I have not ruled out the 1.4 (looks OK on paper...) or the 1.7 TD, but this is likely to be more expensive to buy; not sure my mileage (<14k) would justify a diesel.
Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated - thank you in advance! Read more
Thank you for the responses so far.
I have ruled out the 1.4, but the 1.6 and the 1.7TD are still in the picture. My local VX dealer is able to do some quite spectacular discounts on Astras (£4-5k!) and this does not relate to pre-reg cars either.
So, I seem to recall in another thread that there was a comment about the 1.7TD being 'worn out at 90k'; does this refer to the current engine offered in the Astra? I do know by current standards its a bit off the best, but it will probably do me fine. I am looking for the car to be a long term purchase so I would like to think it would go the distance.
I would still appreciate some views regarding the 1.7TD and the 1.6VVT. Thank you for the pointers to other forums; they look a bit boy racer-ish, but I will give them a go too.
i got a punto mk1 1.2sx multi point inj. and i have replaced the water pump already but i was recomended that the cam belt should be replaced but looking around my local auto factors there is a few on the market and i was wondering which is the best or recomended make i should use?
i seen GATES and DAYCO ect but im a bit worried of cheap foreign makes that will snap in 1000miles!
thanks Read more
Another vote for Gates. Never had one failure prematurely or cause any problems at all.
My local factor sells SKF branded kits which come with Gates belts (printed on the belt itself) and SKF tensioners. My Mondeo is currently wearing one of these kits, as was our old Fiesta - no issues at all.
Cheers
DP
Hi,
i was Wondering if anybody had any ideas about my car. I have a 1999 2ltr HDI 110 {someone else who missed the sticky messages & prompt under the subject header to INCLUDE this in the subject header!} .I have had a squeaky noise come rattle from my car for a few weeks.It only happens when the car is started up in the mornings.I belived the noise was coming from the aux belt and rollers as the noise would stop as soon as i sprayed the belt roller with wd40.i have had the belt,tensioner and belt roller replaced but the noise is still there.It was then suggested that it could be the crank pulley as they are a well known problem on this car, ive had that replaced and the noise is still there.Its wierd ! as soon as i spray the belt roller the noise stops.Could it be i have dodgy belt roller, even though its new?
Im not too impressed with the garage who carried out the work,they dont seem interested in sorting it out so i dont want to go back to them and besides i supplied the parts.
Its driving me potty, it is definatly something that is being driven by the aux belt.
Anybody any ideas.
Thanks
jim Read more
I had something that sounds like this very recently. I too thought it was the idler roller, but in the end it turned out to be the aux drive belt itself. I changed it and hey presto all was well.
The chap in the spares dept of the local Peugeot agent said that they sometimes go a bit hard after lots of use, and start squeaking as they go round the pulleys.
It was £12 or so well spent - I think the idler assy is about £70!
I have a 2002 Chevy Cavalier. When I get up to 25-30 mph it has a humming noise that gets louder the higher the speed goes. I have had a couple mechanics say it was my bearing so I changed that and I still have the humming noise.
I also (not sure if it's connected) have a clunking, thumping noise that comes from my steering area when I turn my wheel usually when backing out, although can happen at a tight slow turn anywhere. Does anyone know what this is? Read more
had a problem recently with my rover with poor performance, which seems to have cleared up. but the car has still got the problem of running to rich,
the figures are;
fast idle CO 0.68 % fail
2nd fast idle CO 0.76% fail
natural CO 0.72% fail
over all fail Read more
Not as simple as a blocked air filter is it?
JS
What should I look under, in the yellow pages, to find a man to come to value the damage to a motor car?
Thanks.
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Most insurers have a "claims" Assessor, maybe yours could send a man around to "assess" the damage if you asked them?
Billy
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Post 1996 have motor and regulator combined.Dealer price is around 160 pounds. I know, had to have mine done. Common prob on these golfs hence second hand quite pricey.