January 2008
I am thinking about draining the radiator and replacing the coolant in my 'Y' reg Vauxhall Zafira 2.0 DTi and also my 'W' reg Pug 206 1.4 petrol.
How do I go about it for both cars and is it easy enough to do at home. I think you take off the top hose and bottom hose and flush through with a domestic hose pipe, is this correct?
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This is not something I have ever done to any car. I am the most car-sympathetic driver in the world -- but I do a very small mileage slowly generally because of where I live.
So in the interests of giving my engine a chance to avoid more expensive trouble later I thought I might do a carefull well considered medicinal thrash.
So what do I do please? Read more
Try to take it up to max power at least twice a week in your circumstances. You dont have to redline as theres no point, engine runs out of air/fuel mix so max power is adequate. If you dont know where max power is, you can feel when the engine starts to drop off with power.
Because i do decent millage each day i get up to max power in any gear at least once on the trip and from work.
I also vary the revs a lot. Mainly changing around 2.2krpm, then sometimes at 3k then once or twice up to max power, 4.2k and then back down again.
Most important things for me with a diesel is, 10/15secs start up idle, eco driving, no hard revving until engine is fully warm and at least a 15sec cool down time after each journey. 1min cool down after harder driving and if i go over to wales on the backroads, 2 mins cool down :) ... all that hill driving. Max power on each journey but limited to 2nd gear. 3rd gear at max power would be way over the NSL for roads.
My car is a 54 plate Passat 130 tdi and is now due for its 30000 miles service. This is only its second service as it is on the long life service. I have had contacted various garages for quotes. The quotes are for a major service (all filters etc)
I have narrowed it down to two garages the first quote is from a main dealer that I have used in the past and is quoting £270 to do all work needed.
The second is from a reputable VW/Audi independent and he is quoting £258 for the same work and this includes an engine flush with forte motor flush treatment www.forteuk.co.uk/Advanced_formula.htm . Which the main dealer does not do. If I do not take the engine flush then the cost goes down to £220.
As there is not much difference in costs should I stay with the dealer or give the independent a try?
All the dealers and independents all had similar prices which I was surprised at. As I always thought independents would be a good bit cheaper.
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Now you have seen the independent you have done the right thing going there. They will do a better job than some youth at the dealer.
I am lucky to have found a very good independent in Derby. He is a German chap, his workshop is spotless and he uses all proper VW parts and oils. I have recommended him to several friends and all have been satisfied with his service.
And much cheaper than the dealers.
Can anyone tell me how to bleed the brakes on a 7 year old leon with ABS. The rear calliper has been replaced but the brake pedal isn't as firm as it use to be. I am told that I might have to take it to a dealer for it to be put on the computer to activate the ABS pump whilst bleeding the brakes.
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If air has not got into the ABS pump, then the brakes can be bled in the normal way. Take care not to let the fluid level in the reservoir drop too far or you will end up having to bleed the master cylinder which is a pain (difficult access). Have you thought of putting the car in for a brake fluid change (recommended every 2 years) and leaving it to the garage to overcome any problems?
The alarm on my 05 FRV 2.0 Sport has started to go off during the night, especially if it is frosty. Is this a common fault on Honda's? Does anyone know if there is a way of de-activating the alarm before the car and I gat an ASBO? Read more
I too had the same problem with my 08 FRV the alarm going off day and night, especilly in cold weather. After four visits to the dealer (all of which found no faults) Honda UK have agreed that it is a known fault and are replacing the whole alarm system under warrenty. So I would go back and ask them to contact the techies at Honda UK.
Good Luck!
The wife is currently driving a Civic 1.8 EX, 56 plate. It has 17" alloy wheels and a hard suspension, no doubt for the increased sportiness that the average Civic driver requires ;-:
She is now 5 months pregnant, and is finding the ride very harsh, what would my options be, and how effective would they actually be on this car?
Obviously I could change the wheels to something like a 15", what effect would this have on handling, etc? would it soften the ride to make it worthwhile?
I'm no Max Hardcore, and never really have been. Should I just pop down to Halfords and see what's on offer, and get some wheels until my wife is ready for the original wheels again?
thanks for all replies & suggestions Read more
Similar question in a "popular Sunday Paper" re softening the ride in a Jazz
Recommendation there was:-
1) Try smaller wheels with higher profile tyres
2) Buy another car
Anything other than changing wheels and tyres has suspension /handling /safety implications and big ££££s on any change - some of which may have unknown safety / Insurance implications - Hence Buy AN Other car recommendation if 1) fails to make a difference
Just arrived back in UK, had a hire Vectra from Newcastle Airport home to N Wales. It was a 1.9 Diesel Auto On the whole i was quite suprised not a bad motor & the 1st Vectra i've ever driven.... Except i could not get to grips with the stupid indicator system. Sorry if this has been covered before.
After about 10 miles i understood a light touch for 3 flashes, ok for changing lanes on M way. Then a harder push to keep flashin, This then self cancels with a turn of the wheel. The problem that arrises is you want cancel yourself i found myself indicating the other way! or if i just wanted a quik indicaton to change lane as mentioned above then i pressed too hard it went on flashing. Then i had the problem of not being able to cancel!
How do you vectra drivers cope with this? What is the advantages of this over a normal switch?... Cost i suspect!
Certainly put me off Read more
>> I can confirm that you do indeed need to check the oil level every single time you refuel.
Why not include a oil pressure gauge then?
The oil level would have to drop lower than the min level on the dipstick before the oil pressure light came on. Better to have an oil level light than low pressure light.
Hi, I've a '99 2.5tdi voyager - everything's running o.k BUT .. . random cutting out of engine, no pattern to this, can be just going down the road or on motorway!!!
Have changed filters, cleaned tank, diagnositics not able to narrow it down, could be electrics or fuel pump - don't want to throw money at it randomly/ Anyone else had this problem and managed to solve it.
After cutting out I switch the ignition off and can start up straight away, no problems and can either run 5 weeks with no problems or 2 days!
Any help greatly appreciated, thanks. Read more
please sign up to our wordpress and facebook page in reference to the voyager issue:
Hi,
I have a 1996 P reg ford Ka 2 on which the clutch has gone. It will just about move right at the top of the clutch's travel and your speed is limited to about 3mph.
I am travelling in Australia at the moment and having to organise a repair in the UK via my mum which is difficult as neither of us really know anything about cars. I want it repaired while I am away so she can at least drive it a bit to keep it from sitting for the next 6 months.
A mate of mine has said he thinks it needs "new slave and master Ccylinders along with pressure plates" and if I dont do the fly wheel at the same time it would "fry 2 weeks later ". This is based on nothing but his vague mechanical knowledge- he has not dismantled the car at all.
Can anyone tell me if this is a likely scenario? If it is a possibility does the figure of 375 pounds just for the parts sound right? Can these parts be sourced second hand?
He made me an offer of 500 quid for the car while telling me the good news about its need for these expensive repairs so I am hoping he has doctored the prices a little to make it seem like a good idea to sell it to him.
I dont really want to sell what has been an extremely reliable car, bought for 2k in 2006 just because he is telling me it needs expensive repairs but I have no way of second guessing what he is saying because I am not there!
HELP!
Thanks, Jaime Read more
Thanks for all the replies. Its things like not knowing what a flywheel really is, let alone if it needs replacing that always make my car repairs start cheap and end up expensive. I guess I will have to hope that my friend's friend is free to look at it for me. Even if he does look at it, he might misguidedly think something needs doing that would be fine if left.
Maybe I should take an evening class...
Thanks again for the responses, they all help!
I bought my 2.0TDC Ghia in late Nov 07. I love the car and the voice activated controls are great. However, coming home tonight the voice activated control has failed again. This is the 2nd time. The first time it went back to the dealer. It came back fixed with no explanation other than " you get these teething faults on new models". I'll be phoning them again on monday, But as it's happened again, I'm wondering if this is a fault others are experiencing? Read more
Sorted now. They said it was a fault with the radio. Thats the 2nd time. I hope they'll replace the unit if it goes again.
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And use a 50/50 mix of coolant / water when you refill.
Find out the quantity your cooling system takes, divide by two (obviously) and then add that amount of neat coolant first into the expansion tank, followed by the water. Reason being, you won't drain the entire contents of the cooling system, and as you've flushed it through, you'll have a certain amount of plain water left in the system.