January 2008
Very similar to Akialmera problem of 8 weeks ago. Car had been running fine before a xmas break but on return after approx 3 miles started mis-fire. Changed plugs ,ht-leads dis cap and rotor. Also notice that front pipe with cat had small hole so that has also been replaced along with cat. Car starts fine but idles between 800-1200 rpm. feels very much like car running on three cylinders then back to four. very laboured up hills. None of the changes stopped the misfire(fuel consumption increased big time).
Booked car into garage no faults come up on diagnostics comp but they changed a temp switch near distributor, after recording high fuel readings (no change). They are now advising new epu? . Any info would be gratefully received.
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The engine management warning light came on ( constant, not flashing ) during a long hot drive back from S France last summer. No noticable problem though and the garage hooked it up when we had it MOTd , returning the error codes
0136 circuit high voltage
0335 Incorrect RPM signal.
No immediate problem, they said, and reset the light. After a couple of months, the light is back, the only noticable problem is that you have to turn over the engine for about 5 seconds before it fires and it stutters a bit in the cold. Is this indicative of a sensor beginning to fail ? Read more
you really need to get the codes re-read and take it from there as it will be purely guess work untill this is done, it may be a crank sensor failing, may be coolant temp sensor failure/incorect reading, as i say we are guessing see if you can get the codes read and report back
Could anyone tell me the cost of a genuine VAG clutch kit (parts on exchange) for a 2001 Skoda Fabia 5 dr. hatch, 1.9tdi, (101 bhp) PD engine?
Also can anyone tell me the official Skoda hours required to do this job?
Is 74,000 miles a reasonable life for a clutch in one of these cars - assuming sensible driving - i.e. no boy racer stuff, no clutch riding, but using engine braking, with suitable revs adjustment, as a norm?
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3.30 hours = 3 hours 18 minutes, I think?
Roger
Costa del Sol, España.
Do I need to spend extra on winter tyres for a German hire car driving to Austria at the end of February?
I am hiring a car in Berlin to drive to the ski resort of Hinterglemm, Northern Austria on 22nd February. I will be making the return journey on 1st March. The journey plan allows 24 hours each way.
My question in a nutshell is: Will there still be any snow or ice on the main roads? Of course, this is impossible to predict with absolute certainty but I would like to have an idea of the probability.
If there is a significant chance of snow and ice on the main roads, I need to request snow tyres. The hire companies, Avis and Eurocar, provide only standard (i.e. summer) tyres throughout the year on their hire cars. Snow/ winter tyres are an optional accessory but they will cost me an extra £90 to £110 which I would much rather spend on something else if I don't need them!
What about the use of snow chains? The car will be either a Passat Estate or a Vectra Estate. Snow chains are not listed on the Avis booking website. Can snow chains even be fitted?
Here is the information from the AA's website:
Touring tips Germany
All motorists have the obligation to adapt their vehicles to winter weather conditions. This includes but is not limited to winter tyres and anti-freeze fluid for the washer system. Extreme weather may additionally require snow chains. The law does not specify which type of tyre is 'appropriate' the general opinion is that any type of tyre except summer tyres is appropriate, including all-year tyres. Winter tyres must bear the mark M+S or display the snowflake on the side wall. Motorists, whose car is equipped with summer tyres while there is snow and ice, may not take the car on the road. Motorists in violation face fines of EURO 20. If they actually obstruct traffic, the fine is Euro 40.
Visiting Germany
If during the winter months a vehicle becomes stuck because the tyres are unsuitable, drivers are liable to an on the spot fine in Germany. If the vehicle causes an obstruction and aggravation to other traffic, the fine may be doubled. The fine may not refer specifically to the fitment of 'incorrect' tyres though but relate instead to the fact that the vehicle could not make normal progress in inclement conditions!
The German law requiring 'appropriate tyres' is national legislation only. The UK Department for Transport have confirmed that International conventions permit vehicles to circulate in international traffic as long as they satisfy general technical requirements which as far as tyres are concerned mean only "pneumatic tyres ensuring good adhesion, even in the wet".
So as far as the law is concerned your normal tyres that meet UK regulations will be OK for a winter trip to Germany though you must take measures to ensure that you can make normal progress in inclement conditions.
In practice this means carrying snow chains and using them whenever conditions or local signs require.
END QUOTE
I made this same trip 2 years ago but one month later, at the end of March. AFAIR, all the roads were clear and dry and the Avis-hired Vectra was shod with standard tyres.
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BW - thanks for that very full and interesting report! When I hire cars in Germany in the winter months, flying into Hahn in the Eifel, the cars always have winter tyres and there is a nominal surcharge for them, just a few euros. German law may be different to Austrian in this respect.
My fathers Toyota Yaris 1.0L is now just over 3 years old and hence out of warranty. My father only drives about 4k miles a year. It's due for a service as its been a year (but only 4k miles) since the last one.
On such a low annual mileage is it worth servicing every 12 months /4k or would it make sense to service it every 24 months / 8k? The car will probably be kept until it falls to bits. What do the BR think? Read more
All these prices seen really low to me. Last year we paid £150 at a Hyundai Garage which was also an official toyota service centre. I remember getting a quote just over £200 from a dealer.
Well, if I can get it serviced for £100 then I guess I may as well get it serviced. Thanks for your replies.
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Thanks for all the contributions and advice so far. I now have more idea of what to go for. The decision still has to be made.
MJM
{moved to end of question, as per mjm's email request - DD}
Just seen a piece on how your speed effects your fuel economy and t doesn;t seem correct to me (unless my maths are completely wrong)
tinyurl.com/37fqzu {Link to www.northlan.gov.uk shortened to restore page width to normal}
Scroll to bottom.
They are saying that 50MPH is the most economical speed for the average car, travelling at 60MPH increases consumption by 21%, 70MPH +35%, 80MPH +42%, 90MPH +48%. I know these are averages but if I try to put some meat on the bones and use my car (1.8 TDCI S-Max) which gets around 50MPG at 60MPH:
50MPH - 60.5MPG
60MPH - 50MPG
70MPH - 44.8MPG
80MPH - 42.6MPG
90MPH - 40.9MPG
Now to me the 50MPH and 70MPH seems reasonable but the 80MPH and 90MPH figures seem way off, I would get considerably lower MPG's that they estimate.
Any opinions on the matter or have I mis-read it?
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Doesn't surprise me at all Gary. I think that applies to quite a few cars, but the green lobby won't even acknowledge it. This is where the so-called govt advisers fall down, because they can't see past a set of figures produced in 'set conditions'. They bare very little resemblance to real life driving.
Help please,I have just purchased a 3 year old C-Max 6500 miles only,there is vibration bettween 50 to 60 mph under acceleration only,it is comes from the front of the car,it is not a balancing issue because I have had thoughly checked out.
Thanks
shula
E320 Coupe Read more
If the car is very low milage it must of sat around quite a bit and may of got flat spots on the tyres & balanceing them won't make any difference. The tyre tread shape may not be visable. So tyre/ drive shaft/engine mount/ misfire thats where you need to be looking.
Doc
Bought brand new 1.8 petrol Zetec Climate Focus today (9-1-08) 10 miles on mileometer. This is the current model pre the February facelift .
On the Ford Service blurb provided it says first service in 12.5K miles OR a year , now as I tend now to do 5K miles a year only, and have a lot of short journeys ie 4 miles to work and 4 miles home - can I ask
OK to adhere to the Ford Advice ?
Or should I have oil changed more often, if so does that mean filter as well each 'extra' time?
Plus just how easy is it to access the oil filter on this model ?
Last one - is the Fords own oil a synthetic or what cos some one told me syntehetics are for new design engines only and my engine is one that has been around for sometime now.
Like I say welcome any advice from some people who know whats what on these sort of things.
Thanks
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Quizman,
You can usually tell ` oilrag ` posts by the
" Regards" at the end.
This is partly a sop to the drivel in the post and also to apologise in advance for offending anyone.
Regards ;)
(thinking of a new sig now... maybe `oldoil`or perhaps more appropriately, Oil-Nag ;)
I have a stalling problem with my X-Trail which I hope someone may be able to help. The local dealer cannot work out what is wrong.
It is a 2.5 SVE 2003 auto X-Trail.
It has had a LPG gas conversion, but the problem happens whether running under petrol or gas.
The car start OK in the morning OK but after 2-3 mins it cuts outs if you take your foot off the throttle. You loose the brakes and the steering is hard, so a bit risky. It can be a bit hard to restart. It only stalls in drive just after the temperature gauge is showing normal temperature and you take your foot of the throtle. It does not before this.
This may happen 2-3 times over the next 5mins if you take your foot of the throttle but after that it is fine.
The dealer has checked diagnostics and clean throttle butterfly and housing.
They have also replaced Airflow Meter but no help
They have increased the idle up to 250 and although this has helped a very small amount, it still stalls when warming up.
Any ideas?
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Hi,
Really isn't an issue for me....
Browse
hi, im having the exact same problem with my 1.4 8v 1996 polo...
ive done the leads, dizzy cap,and arm. It runs slightly better, but it still feels like its misfiring and uses LOOOAAAAAADS of petrol.....