August 2017
KR makes the common mistake that ten percent plus two is the discretionary max speed, i.e. no ticket until 36. When discretion is used ten percent plus two is the point at which a ticket will be given. 35 in a 30 is correct.
Regardless 35moh read probably means a speedo reading of 38-40, so no excuse. Read more
Hey all,
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I bought a 2nd hand car the other day, everything seemed fine, took it for a test drive and it ran well.
We drove the car home and the next day the battery was dead (nothing would switvh on and car wouldnt start)... Read more
"a "smartphone" is ok for talking, texting and sending the odd sms/message and using as a satnav or to find a pub/restaurant/shop/ etc while out. as a means of lettter writing beyond a short paragraph, it is a pain in the posterior."
Bulk of my ramblings on here come courtesy of iPhone.
I recently used a cashback site to buy my insurance, and cashback has been delivered in the form of a cheque, so pleased with that.
Also looking for 2 front tyres got a good deal.... Read more
I received cashback direct from the company I insured with.
Hi
I am about to sell my car in few days time and today i saw malfunction light on today, so it goes away when I start the negine but stays just before i start the car so between the lock and start engine position on the key.... Read more
I'd say every garage will have a code reader that can tell you why the EML is on.
And I certainly would,'t buy any vehicle that has the lamp on unless it was spares/repair and dirt cheap.
In October 2016, my partner and I purchased a new BMWi3, without the range extender. We understand we were one of the first buyers of this updated i3 in the U.K.... Read more
What were the EXACT circumstances in which the accidents happened? Were they during low-speed manoeuvering (e.g. in a car park), or while driving on open roads?
Some i3 owners have reported an occasional issue with the regenerative braking, which happens when the driver lifts off the throttle. Sometimes, if the driver is off the throttle when taking a corner quickly, or if the car goes over a big bump / pothole while off the throttle, the i3's wheel sensors (used by the traction control & stability systems) will temporarily disable regenerative braking and the car will switch to 'coast' mode....
I recently bought a Corsa Comfort 1.0 2001. It's mileage is low, less than 30000; it has a good service book having been regularly serviced.
Within city roads no problem , even though not brilliant. Once I go to A or M roads , there are problems. At speeds more than 40 miles, the steering is not stable when changing lanes or applying brakes to reduce speed, the car drifts a bit, and due to my holding the steering it comes back on course. The steering wheel is about few degrees, about 3 degrees let us say, to the left at zero speed. When I start the car, it makes some tapping noises as if some metal is touching another. While driving , no other sounds. The drifting is acute when going down a slope, while going up a slope it is more stable. Is it a problem connected with the Electric controls of the steering system. There are instructions in the internet for fixing issues of Corsa EPS is caused by the torque sensing mechanical components. Is it all or is some other things needs to be looked into ? For any speed more than 40 miles, I have to be cautious
I am in Renfrewshire, any good mechanics or vauxhall centres in Renfrewshire or Glasgow who can fix this and anyone recommended?
Thanks for any answers Read more
The noise you're hearing on startup will be the timing chain tensioner which is a very common problem on these engines. It's often down to infrequent oil changes and again more common on low mileage cars that see lots of short stop start driving which doesn't allow the oil to reach full temperature. Low mileage cars like this must have regular oil changes, at least once a year.
The instability at speed is most likely the tracking and is easy sorted at any tyre centre but worn steering racks are again very commonnon these too but I'd be surprised if this was the case at that mileage. It could also indicate poor quality accident repair.
I'd seek out a good independent garage to check it over before spending any money on it.
Hi
I'm about to buy my first used car - found one with 90 000miles on the clock and a good price. Just wanted to understand if any of these issues from past MOTs are worth worrying about? Am I better spending more to find a version with fewer past issues? Any thoughts welcome!... Read more
I thought that might be the case in the UK. He did it in Italy where I'm pretty sure no-one would ever care or notice - it was totally fine to drive and use by the way - but not sure how the guy got around any issues. But point taken !
Just changed job and now only doing 6000 miles a year commuting. Drive a 320d m sport on a 63 plate which I love but will not need a diesel with new job. Had a look at similar cars (need space) and there are just so few out there. Can't see this huge change to petrol cars only on the roads ever happening? Read more
The tide is turning against diesel. I think after a year or two, there will be lot more choices in petrols.
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I understand that buying a car from the trade, you would be protected from any come back on a log book loan.
What about buying privately, is there an reliable way of finding out if there is any money owed against a car? Read more
Gut instinct comes into play here. If you're buying a sub £2k motor from an old buddy who's owned for 10yrs and it comes with a stamped up book and a fat wallet full of receipts then you're good to go but if you're looking at dearer stuff or thinking about viewing at a car that's been with its current keeper for less than two years then be wary. Always get an HPI check done if there's even the slightest doubt and remember the guarantee doesn't cover you if the seller did the check, it needs to be you.
I still think private sales are the best way by far to buy a sub £4k car. From this pricepoint downwards the trade is dominated by rogues and cheats. Many larger dealer will hang onto good trade in stock and retail it but mostly it'll be heavily overpriced to offset their risk and effort.
Buying privately you get to meet the owner face to face, see where the car was kept and get a good feel for what sort of person they are. At a dealer you'll almost always be told it was a wee old lady or some other lie. Truth is sales staff rarely know where their stock came from, even if it was a trade in its likely another member of staff took it in and let's be honest here they'll tell you anything to get you to buy.
An HPI check doesn't cost much and give a good degree of cover if you do it properly using both the reg no and vin. Plus also bearing in mind that the car must be registered to the address you viewed it at. This is of course only common sense. Never buy a car if the address doesn't match and never buy one with no V5 present. Look out for the yellow trade section missing too. Fly traders often sell posing as private sellers and you'll get the usual excuses such as "We were trading it in but changed our mind, the dealer filled it in already" "it's my auntie/uncle/nephew/great great grans motor I'm selling on their behalf" etc etc.
Trust your guts and take another pair of eyes and ears along too. I love outing these scumbags but it would frighten people if they followed me to some of the motors I'm asked to view. Honesty and decency are rare commodities in the used motor industry from dealer and private punter alike.
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Hi,
I am experiencing exactly the same issue. Did you find a resolution? I cannot believe this is normal.