March 2017
Having just read in the agony section that the price to have an ABS pump fitted is over £3000. Is there any justification for this price? Read more
Hi, been having a few problems with this little car. This morning I just cleaned the throttle body and put a new distributer cap and Roter arm and airfilter on it as it was having a problem with starting cold and low revs on idle. ( I left the battery terminals off for an hour and held down the break to reset the ecu after cleaning throttle body)
After changing all of these out I took it for a 10minute drive, after 10minutes it started joulting then it wouldn't accelerate and died. I then had to wait a few minutes before it would start again then I could drive a little way but after acceleration a few times it would start to judder and proceed to cut out. ... Read more
If your car has an electronic throttle body you will need to recalibrate it in basic settings after cleaning it. This is so the ECM can relearn the minimum and maximum values in order to operate it correctly. You can do this with VCDS. Search the VAG forums for someone near you who can help. I have VCDS, and I'm in Hampshire if it helps.
I have just bought a Hyundai I10 from a "Lookers" Renault Dealer.and they have offered to do the servicing.
The car has three and a half year warranty left.
I am concerned that Hyundai wouldn't honour any warranty repairs if I got the car serviced at a Renault Dealer.
Am I correct to be concerned about this?
Thank you for your help
Neil Bulloch Read more
"Surprised about the i20 window motor problem though as the door windows aren't part of the service anyway - did that have have a full non dealer -service history?"
So was I, they're generally very good electrically and yes it did have a full history but it was being done by a small local and very competent garage I also use for my trade vehicles but it was an easy get out for the firm. If you read through the terms of your warranty you'll find somewhere within a clause stating the vehicle must be maintained according to the manufacturers guidlines. This can be done if your servicing dealer do download the correct schedule or its listed in your service book and they list everything they do and provide proof that only Hyundai parts were used. By doing so though you'll find they'll generally be no cheaper than the main dealer.
I've spoken to the service manager at a local Kia dealer before on this subject before and he confirmed that it's a regular bone of contention. Loads of punters turning up trying to claim on warranties without the relevant proof of maintenance and on cars bought elsewhere, usually from a dealer who didn't supply any other warranty because they claimed the manufacturer one was still valid.
I renewed my insurance recently and decided to not renew the breakdown recovery this time. I came to the conclusion that they must be making money from it and I can probably just phone a breakdown recovery place if/when I need it. The cheaper policies don't cover much, eg. must be x miles from home and others can get very expensive.
I've only called out a recovery vehicle once and have been driving for 15 years. If you work that out at £30 x 15 = £450. So that callout cost me £450 and at that price they would only do it away from home.... Read more
Most of the discussion has been about how much the cover as. But as I found out recently on a breakdown on the MI. My partners car was back at my repairers premises in 4 hours on one of the busiest days of the year.
Compare that with the family broken down next to me who were stilln at the service area at 3 the next morning still waiting....
...build-up, and direct injection diesel don't?
I've read that normal petrol engines are OK as the petrol acts as a solvent on the way into the cylinder and cleans deposits away.
As diesel is a 'sooty' fuel anyway and diesels have been direct injection for ages, why don't they get the same problem? Read more
No such thing as 'better combustion' between standard Ron95 and superUL. ...
I know diesels are falling out of favour these days. Nevertheless I've always been curious, why not supercharge a diesel car instead of turbo? Read more
Got to admire Mazda for being so daring in engine design. Their perseverence with the rotary engine, even putting one in a Holden, really interesting company at times!
It's an interesting and different engine, but not my cup of tea. Screaming revs and no torque. They still don't seem to have got over the seals problem, so I don't know why they persevered with it, unless they treated the engines as having a low shelf life, and expected them to be rebuilt regularly.
Afternoon all - last week i picked up a tanker driver from the grangemouth refinary where he collects fuel for shell and formally BP.
I thought he would be the perfect man to talk to about different fuels and indeed he was! We spent the entire taxi journey taking about the fuels and I asked him if the truth about supermarket fuels is true, his answer was simply what do I think I'm the one doing 50k a year. I told him I don't touch them and run my car exclusively on shell v power and the only result I care about is the improved MPG . ... Read more
he said any modern diesel car should stay away from supermarket fuels apart from tesco and use either BP ultimate or Shell v power or equivalent as they need the extra dose.
...
I have started a new job that will see me claiming 45p per mile whilst travelling to client sites.
The clients are quite far away from home and so I should be earning roughly £1000pm. However after 10k this reduces to 25p per mile.
What strategy have people used for buying a car when not having a car allowance but paid instead per mile?
I have looked at leasing based on 20k miles a year but the problem is, if I lose the income from mileage due to being made to work on clients closer to home then I would not be able to afford the car. My option here is change to a lower mileage allowance e.g. 8k so that the monthly payments are lower and then stash the cash to pay off nay excess mileage charges at the end.
Or should I be looking at buying a used a car which would offer more flexibility to sell it if my mileage requirements significantly changed?
I suppose I could afford to run a decent car whilst the mileage is high but as soon as it drops, I could be up a creek!
How have others handled this situation?
Currently I am coming to an end of a PCP and have £4K deposit to start something new. Read more
If you are using the car for business use then you would have to declare that to your insurance company. I bet they charge more to insure vehicles for business use.
They do, but the extra amount really depends on the type of use and the business mileage in comparison to private mileage (including commuting). If you do a lowish amount of business miles, say around 5000, then for most reasonably safe drivers over 25 (or perhaps 30) this will probably add about 5 - 10% to the annual cost. It did for me....
Hi all, been a bit unsure about which car to replace my van! Hoping you can help me.
Currently have 2 vehicles - a nice 2008 Volvo V50 T5 dual fuel and a battered 2005 Ford Transit Connect T200 TDDI van - the V50 being my "luxury rather fast car" and the van for work & own business - despite the van being battered and ugly as hell, it's awesome as it has a massive "trunk" that swallows anything when I use it for tip runs, Costco runs and when I move stuff. You can even fit two pallets in the back. I often pick up my wife from the city using the van. While the engine has 100k miles on it, it is utterly reliable, starts on the button and I am fully confident it'll last for another 100k easily. My only complaint of this van really is that it has poverty spec and I'm actually surprised that the steering wheel is included as standard at all.... Read more
The Skoda Roomster is van based, and big discounts are possible.
Can you clarify this? SFAIK there is no successor, at least in UK, to the Roomster. This was based on a car platform and parts from Fabia and Octavia. ...
A couple of months ago I bought a used Honda Accord 2.0 petrol with a very low mileage. The car runs almost like new with one exception (i.e. the clutch). In normal running it is as smooth as can be with no noise or slippage but the problem comes when I come to reverse it up my fairly steep driveway,
The engine note changes to a low rumble and the car judders really badly. Even my 4 year old granddaughter asks why it is (in her words) so bumpy.... Read more
Clutches seem to be a weak point on Honda's. Our CRV had a new one fitted under warranty at 25,000 miles because of a nasty judder when the car was cold. I believe it's oil contaminating the clutch plate but Honda said there had been a slightly bent fork but If this had been the case then it would've juddered all the time and not just from cold. Sadly the replacement is now showing signs of going the same way which adds further weight to my initial diagnosis. Having said this, I have only heard of it on diesels so far and not petrol and if it was the clutch it would surely do it in first gear too. Our useless main dealer kept returning the car to us saying they couldn't find fault yet by the end it was pretty much undrivable when cold. I bypassed them and called Honda customer services direct who then arranged to have the car reassessed, finding the problem and agreeing to a new clutch. No use when they didn't fix the real problem though. Shame really, they are otherwise excellent cars.
Our 2015 Accord 2.2 type S had a clutch judder from new when reversing but after 5K miles it bedded in and is not now a problem - possibly a different clutch pack to the CRV because it's the N22B1 178 hp diesel.
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