January 2014

csgmart

The temperature outside is something like 5 degrees C at the moment and I've just checked the tyre pressures on 3 vehicles. All show much less pressure on the gauge I am using (manual type) than the handbook recommends.

2 of the vehicles are fited with TPMS and neither vehicle is reporting low tyre pressure. The lower than expected reading is consistant - e.g. when it should be 38 psi I am getting a reading of 35 psi on every occasion I check.... Read more

Andrew-T

< Saw these but I only work in degrees C not F..... I could do the calculation but was surprised there was no definitive UK source of advice. >

For the precision needed to set your tyre pressures, assuming that 1 C° equals 2 F° will be quite good enough. The practical difference between 34 and 36 psi (for example) is negligible.

daveyK_UK

Wow... Read more

RT

As I understand it some Chevrolets are .made by Daewoo so NOT standard GM.

GM took over Daewoo in 2001 and has been a wholly-owned subsidiary since - just like Opel and Vauxhall....

crol

I recently had a misfire on cyclinder 2 on my Astra. Put it into the garage and they diagnosed a sticking valve. They did all the checks including a compression test which showed that it was down on cyclinder 2. They replaced the oil and did a engine flush, also added additives to petrol. However, it is still misfiring and now I am being told it will need the head taking off. Has anyone experience this problem and any solutions? Thanks Read more

crol

Car is a 59 plate, 1.6, 16v

lancashire lad

Hi guys,

I need your help once again to get me back on the road.

My 2002 Grand Voyager has been stood for a good few weeks over the Christmas and New Year period and i recently went start her up and take her for a drive but the battery was so flat there wasn't even a faint light on anywhere.

so i removed the battery and took indoors and placed on charge for 24 hours, then fitted back onto the car, this is where the fun starts.........

on reconnecting the battery the alarm armed itself and within a few seconds went off as the bonnet / hood was open but no ammount of key fob pressing turned it off, it only locked and unlocked the doors. i tried to put my key in the ignition whilst the alarm was sounding but it wouldnt start and oddly all the gear indicator lights where lit up (PRND3L).

i'm guessing that my car has lost its pairing with my coded key or something along those lines but may be wrong.

do i need to pair my key with ECU again? i know in the past on other cars you do can similar things like put in the door and hold to unlock for a few mins or put in ignition and press lock / unlock in a certain sequence.

Hopefully someone will have had this before and knows how to reprogram the key,ecu,bcm.........

thanks in advance Scott. Read more

Ricado

Just recentlly purshased a 2004 Manuel Passat, and I have issues with the Central Locking, I have to hold the key very close to the drivers doors to actevite the systerm and only the driver doors works, I have to use the boot button inside the drivers door to activet, also if I use the door button inside the drivers door the rear N/S door works non of the others, can some one help please? Read more

dieselnut

Pull up the carpet from the front passenger footwell. The ECU controlling the central locking sits at the lowest point under thick foam & so collects any water that may leak in.

If wet it will need thoroughly drying & checking for corroded conexions & broken wires....

vandenbergh

Since a year the cruise control is malfunctioning. Replacement of combination switch, ignition lock and brake light switch was to no avail. The garage and service inspector could not find a fault in the electrical circuits. They said that everything was tested and no fault could be detected. What could be the cause? Read more

Alex Smith

Immediately after our 3-year service (32,000 miles), carried out by the supplying dealership our car engine started making peculiar noises. At that point it was still within the 3-year warranty period. We alerted the dealership immediately and they have since examined the vehicle three times without identfying the fault. The oil pressure warning light comes on even when stationary and occasionally the engine cuts out. This is usually accompanied by a brief message to say to keep under 4,000 rpm (which we have never ever exceeded). We are convinced there is a major underlying problem, how should we approach this in order to get the problem fixed, preferably at Skoda's expense? We are members of the AA but don't have 'Homestart' - concerned that an independent garage may not have access to the latest diagnostic software. Read more

ricojames

In my three and a half years with a Yeti, I feel Skoda dealers are excellent when they know what the problem is, then just quickly replace with new parts That's very nice, but if they are asked to kindly resolve a persistent problem, they quickly lose interest and in my case, given the brush off and told 'CASE CLOSED'. This has left me totally disgruntled and my planned interest in the facelifted model is now in doubt.

aizberg

Hello i got passat 2006, 1,9. I got heater blower issue. The heater working only on the highest speed, i already changed heater blower motor and heater blower transister two times. Since transistor has been changed the heater working as normal for half an hour and once again after half an hour the heater starting working only on the highest speed. Maybe somebody had the same issue and you know what to do? Please advise Read more

dieselnut

aizberg

Sounds like your heater blower motor is faulty drawing too much current, this has blown the control transistor again. Might just be binding bearings that need some lube.

tamcox

Hello,

... Read more

tamcox

Update, I thought it had fixed it, not sure what the problem is.

...

docajac

Do RUN FLATS last longer than normal ones?

What is the average miles you can do with a well kept(ie regular pressure check etc) premium brand, normal vs Run Flats?... Read more

skidpan

The run flats on my BMW lasted the 5 1/2 years I owned the car, 37,500 miles, and still had 4mm tread left when I traded the car. To be fair 2 1/2 winters were spent on winter tyres, probably 8,000 miles but the run flats would have lasted the full 37,500 miles if needed.

I rotated front/rear twice a year and kept the pressures at BMW's figures, nothing special.