October 2011
new to this and a complete car novice so please bare with me lol!
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i've been googling but can't find a guide what the inspection codes supposed to mean. after priming the ignition this in ** code appears and according to my garage in 00 means it's ok but they can't / won't tell me what in 01 or in 02 mean so if anyone has a clue plz share :) Read more
Hi, I have oil coming from the overflow pip of my radiator header tank. No water present in the oil though.
Does this suggest a blown head gasket - hope not!... Read more
Could be the turbo if it has one
I wondered if anyone could help. My son has had a NIP for speeding in a temp speed limit on the motorway, which may mean 6 points or up to 56 days disqualification. As he is 181/2 and only driving 15 months, the 6 points mean licence is revoked. Does anyone know which would be worse for his insurance? I know it will be horrible either way, but wondered if any difference? Read more
If he gets the six points (Age is irrelevant) then he will be back to provisional status. He will have to retake the tests again. Sounds like he should. 79mph in a 50mph limit! The usual 10% + 2mph rule means he was only just in the limit for the road anyway and likely to have seen an indicated speed above 85mph.
So if a temp ban is possible for 56 days it might be better. But the magistrates are likely to impose the 6 points (or whatever they will be) knowing that takes the driver back to effectively learner status. ...
Afternoon all.
Nice little forum here with some interesting debate going on and a lot of sense spoken, I’ve spent a few hours reading through a few pages of previous posts to get a feel for the place and was now looking for some advice and recommendations for my next car.
Probably best if I give a bit of background first to where I am today.
About eight years ago I had a 2001 Citroen Saxo 1.6 VTR which was abruptly written off at a set of traffic lights. As a result of this I went totally safety conscious for the next car and got a 1999 Volvo S40 1.8 XS. At the time I was doing a commute of about 20 miles a day but some time later, due to a change in job, this doubled to 40 miles a day. I liked the size and comfort of the Volvo but, due to the petrol costs and a few other issues, the costs were creeping up and I looked for something more economical. After having a look at what was available in the price range I had in mind I went for a 2003 MGZR 2.0 TD, this served me well for commuting up and down the motorway and is what I currently have now. The car was bought from an MG fanatic and I’ve looked after it mechanically and always paid the money as and when required for work and maintenance. This is possibly the one thing holding me back a little.
Back to present day and my commute has dropped again to 12 miles a day and, although not totally needed, I’d like to get something with a bit more room and four/five doors as three doors is sometimes a bit of an annoyance. Reading some comments on here my mileage probably drops me back into the petrol engine bracket again (I’m not even sure I should really have been in the diesel bracket!) and have no problem if this is the case. If you can name it then I’ve probably looked at it, Volvo S40/S60, Ford Focus/Mondeo, Mercedes, Lexus, BMW 3/5, Seat, Honda, Toyota anything in the mid/large hatchback/saloon category I have considered!
The last two I was looking at were a Mercedes C Class with 150k and a Lexus IS200 S with 80k, both for around £3,000.
I suppose I’m looking for a bit of confirmation of my thinking if anything along with some recommendations for suitable cars in the £3000-£3500 price range.
If you’ve read this far then good work and thanks for any advice offered!
BR Read more
Never mind the cost , I'd probably have no license within a month!
I've found how the S-Type can easily do 130 - i mean 70 - without you really noticing to be a severe hazard to the driving licence....
I bought a peugeot 306 last year and went on holiday for a fornight shortly after, when I returned the battery was dead and the car wouldn't start, I managed to get it working again by jump starting it, but it didn't last and the battery died (could charge or jump start it)
I replaced the battery and all was well again, until a fortnight ago, I went to start the car and just like before the battery was drained, again, I jump started and all was well again, for about a week and its now drained again.... Read more
Moved to Technical.
Coincident with the onset of colder damper weather the starter motor of my Ford Focus occassionally does not engage with the ring gear on the flywheel to turn the engine. The motor turns ok but the drive gear just rattles against the side of the ring gear. It always works ok at the 2nd or 3rd attempt. I think it just needs a bit of lubrication on the starter motor drive shaft so that the drive gear can slide easily to engage in the flywheel ring gear. However it doesn't look a particularly easy job to do lying under the car on the driveway. Has anyone had any experience of this fault and removing and replacing the starter motor on this model of Ford Focus.
I can now close this out. The problem started again with the onset of colder damp weather, i.e. the starter pinion could be heard spinning against the flywheel but the pinion didn't engage the ring gear to turn the engine. I removed the starter and for quickness replaced with a new one and everything is ok. Later, on investigating the old starter I found the grease between the pinion and the pinion shaft had practically solidified preventing the pinion from moving along the shaft. I stripped and cleaned it and re-greased and I now have a good spare. To get to the starter I removed the battery negative connnection, air cleaner, throttle body, fuel injectors (with fuel line and fuel rail attached) and inlet manifold, and various electrical connectors and air hoses. I also removed the top 2 mounting bolts and loosened the bottom mounting bolt of the alternator and pulled it forward to get access to the top and bottom left hand bolts of the manifold. With hindsight it would have been better to remove the alternator - the drive belt becomes slack and can be slipped off when the alternator is in the forward position. It would not have been necessary to cut the belt as instructed in the Haynes manual. On re-assembly I needed to use a pry bar between the alternator mounting bracket and the engine mounting to overcome the tension on the drive belt. I also found it necessary to lightly grease the injector collars to ease them back into the bores in the cylinder head
This was quite a lengthy job to get to the starter motor but on this car there is no other way.
I cannot find the ecu relay in my car, I have found the box but the relay isn't in there. Someone did sugest that this year of car it may fed direct. Is this correct? Read more
Does anyone know how to remove the black carbon deposited on the glass window on my woodburner.
The unit is working great apart from this problem & I would truly appreciate any advice.... Read more
simple. dampen some newspaper and dip it in the ash ,now rub over glass. works great for me
Hi
Am trying to find out if it is legal to receive and sign finance documents for a new car ordered over the internet?... Read more
Yes you have a 14 day cooling off period to cancel - mandatory with finance agreements and IIRC other products bought "at distance" such as over the internet or phone.
Browse
I agree with the above - go for a petrol. Children of that age need a lot of gubbins to be carted about, so have a look at a Focus estate, Kia Ceed SW or (a bit bigger ) a Skoda Octavia estate. Even the Skoda Fabia estate has more room than your 307 - which I suspect has had neglectful previous owners and sounds like a money-pit. Gordonbennet is right about the HDI engine, but French cars don't stand up well to abuse or neglect.
A Nissan Note - good car with a silly name - might be worth looking at: plenty of room without being a full-size (and therefore more expensive) MPV.