August 2008
Hi There,
I have a 97 1.1 Saxo (HDZ) - I bought it for my partner when it was a year old and it has been a great little car. Recent separation meant it coming back to me!
Recently I noticed an oil leak coming from the rocker cover seal so with funds a little low (divorce is very expensive!) I bought a Haynes and decided to tackle this and a few other jobs myself.
A week or so ago, the idle when starting on cold disappeared and I had to keep my foot on the accelerator until it warmed up - even then, the idle was around a clunky 500rpm.
So I thought it was a spark plug change needed. As I said, I've only just got the car back and I think the servicing etc has been neglected. The plugs that came out were a beautiful tan color - no issue there then.
The auto part I bought was a Denso K20TXR, which seems to be the right plug. I'm a little confused though because the original plugs had a single tab coming over the needle (a normal spark plug?) but these new Denso's were a double affair, and each one met the needle at the side instead of the top.
My problems began!
When I started the car there was o noticeable improvement in the idling, and when I attempted to drive it, it spluttered at 2000rpm. Upon looking at the internet, it looks like for some reason it has gone into a 'LIMP HOME' mode?
I took out the new plugs and noticed that one of them looked quite sooty (the nearest to the coil pack, which is a SAGEM), put the old ones back in, but alas, still the same symptoms - cutting out at 2000rpm.
Can you make any suggestions please?
Thanks :-)
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During some wiring fault tracing I inadvertently removed the underbonnet 10A "ALT/S" fuse which probably not a good idea when the ignition was on altho' engine not running. On replacing same there was a distinct click from I think the boost solenoid control area . Car seems to be running ok and no CEL's but for my future general knowledge is there a capacitator or similar in the alternator which could cause a surge of current when removing/replacing the said fuse which could damage the ecu or other components particularly if the ignition is on?
Tks
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.......... diametrically opposite. It would make tyre inflation just that little bit easier because you could use whichever valve was the most convenient. Instead of struggling to use one in the bottom quarter of the wheel you could use one easily in the top quarter. Read more
It's just
>> one more step towards avoiding being relegated to a mobility scooter.
>>
Do they have bivalve wheels?
Most of them.
Can anyone tell me how to switch off the immobiliser as it is constantly on - hence car will not start! Thank you. Read more
Does your car have the red and green flashing lights on the rear view mirror?If so,then the first thing to do is replace the batteries in the key fob.
I have been on a website to get a valuation on my 2001 Y reg, 126k 2.0DTi Zaffy. THey have offered a price of £1470 and arranged an appointment for tomorrow at a used car dealership in Leeds. I take my car there, they look at it and then if they are happy, complete the transaction (and possibly offer more if they think it' swrth it). They have stated that I bring the V5, proofs of id and then sign the car over to them. They will give a receipt of sale and transer the money into my account in 3 to 4 days.
Has anybody had dealings with this type of sale as it seems a little iffy to me that I give someone, who I don't know, my car with documentation and them only get paid a few days later. Any suggestions? Read more
This site was in association with a used car supermarket (******FT). I would assume they would find various things to pick up on just to bring the price down. A few years ago I foolishly went with the family to look at cars at this place and we ended up having to run out as they have the most pushy salesmen I have ever met. I think I'll steer clear.
Thanks for the imput.
Just about to take the big blue brush and hot washing up liquid to the motor?
tinyurl.com/658fnd Read more
And to think I don't wash my car until the dirty windows start to effect my visablility!
The lights and number plates as well.
It should be interesting in as much as it is a new circuit to all drivers.
I hope they have planned well for any incidents as they cross the bridge.
"Webber, BBC Sport's columnist, admitted the team were struggling, but he said he was enjoying the track and that he expected it to produce an exciting race with a number of interventions by the safety car. " Read more
....... I am no
more pro-Hamilton than pro-Kimi who is better than his results at the moment.
To my mind the fact that you refer to Reikkenon by his first name and Hamilton by his surname indicates that you are pro-Reikkenon.
Our 7 year old Punto with an 8 year anti-perforation warranty has just failed the MOT because of holes in the floor pan in the rear passenger footwells. Too close to the seat belt mounting points. Has anyone had similar problems? Fiat say that it was caused by poor jacking practice and will not pay for repairs!
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I was hoping to hear that it was a common problem but looks like it's not so. Inspection is required at 3 and 5 years to validate the warranty. It had a three year service with Fiat but either they forgot to check or forgot to enter the inspection in the service book. I forgot about taking it in at the 5 year mark and they don't remind you.
Suggest all have a good scratch at the underseal just behind the reinforced area near the rear jacking point, not to hard, just enough to see if the corrosion is under the underseal.
This question refers to a petrol engined car.
I have read that sometimes the oil on the dipstick can look "milky" if there are head gasket problems looming, but can you describe exactly what is meant by this type of oil appearance ?
p.s. sometimes when I check my oil level on the dipstick I notice that the oil does not always go across the full width of the dipstick - is this normal or is there something wrong with my oil (5W 30) ??
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p.s. sometimes when I check my oil level on the dipstick I notice that the
oil does not always go across the full width of the dipstick -
Try checking the oil first thing in the morning before starting the engine, when the oil has had a chance to settle and the dipstick tube is clear of oil. Just pull out the dipstick and read the level without wiping and re-inserting. Wiping and re-inserting the dipstick can give give odd readings because of the oil that is dragged up the dipstick tube when you take it out the first time.
We have had a faultless Honda CRV for 5.5 years.
Two weeks ago my wife got in the car, turned the key and nothing happened; it wouldn't turn over at all. An hour later it started ok.
Two days ago, again it wouldn't turn over. We bump started it (instantly fired up to the relief of the CAT no doubt) and off we went. It started fine the rest of the day but whilst out I bought a new battery at Halfords (£60).
Fitted the new battery this evening and it started fine, but sounded no different turning over to yesterday. I am not convinced it was the battery?
Wife now confesses that two weeks ago she used a pump plugged into the cig lighter to blow up our kids' paddling pool - and left the ignition on 'for a while'.
Any thoughts? Read more
I can't help regarding the battery, but whenever I use an electric footpump to inflate my CRV tyres, I run the engine at the same time,as quoted in the footpump instructions.
I found this out too late when, in the winter when the pump was in the boot and the weather was cold and I blew the lighter fuse!
Flash codes are easy to access and often useful - if there are any...