August 2008
Now that ECUs can put a car into "limp mode" should a defect be detected, could the service indicator be added to the "defect list" in the future? A delay of say 2,000 miles or 2 months could be applied and the manufacturers would probably claim "emmissions check" or some other green reason for this feature. It would also add ECU reset to the service cost. Read more
I have been looking at the Peugeot 307 1.4 HDI as a family car about 2002/3, but they do not seem to be that common. Could anyone suggest a good alternative, either on the low tax rate or next group up? With good economy.
Thank you Read more
I'd second the Octavia, I think the OPs 307 1.4 is Band B, but I'm sure most of the diesel Octavias are C
Also very under-rated is the Fabia Estate - can fit 5 people, more comfortable with 4, but the boot is bigger than the 307's! (H/B version, that is!!)
Hi,
Has anyone else noticed that since September 2001 when the '51' plate was introduced (and just about the same time as the DVLA started to offer the facility of pre-ordering a personalised plate with the new numbers on it) that the last 3 letters of nearly all non-personalised plates are letters which cannot easily make a name or initials? For example, the last 3 letters rarely contain vowels, and often contain lots of Z, K, X or Ws. Gone are the days of getting a number plate which was quite desirable, perhaps by accident, it seems.
Is it just me, or are the DVLA trying to make it so that eventually the only personalised plates will be the ones they have pre-issued (and therefore get the money for)? Read more
I read last week that the DVLA has so far made 1.5 million from selling details of registered keeper of cars, upon request, to the 21st century's take on Dick Turpin, aka wheel clampers (those who operate on private property, except in more enlightened parts, i.e. north of Gretna Green.)
It saves the clamping and squeezing fraternity the bother of having to go through civil court proceedings, and is a snip at 2.50 a time. The Human Rights Act is *still* suspended, and Data Protection legislation has more loopholes than my gran's tea cosy.
Cheeky doesn't begin to describe it.
I just have a couple of concerns about the coolant in my Ford Focus 1.8 Petrol (1999 T).
Firstly, when I check the coolant reservoir, I notice that on the inside surface of the reservoir there are what look like bubbles/condensation which are present whether the car is cold or hot it seems. I haven't taken much notice before now about this.
Secondly, as far as I know the coolant has never been completely renewed since the car was new, although I have always kept the concentration of the coolant mixture correct and it has a FSH. When I look at the coolant in the reservoir I notice that it has a small amount of "debris" - would a certain amount be normal ?
engine variant inserted Read more
If I were you I would change the coolant. If your car is nearly 10 years old you should change the cam belt, water pump and idlers.
I would change the oil as well, you should use a 5W-30 A1/B1 oil. If the engine burns any oil you ought to use 10W-40 semi-syn. Make sure you do not overfill it, it can ruin the engine. Are the plugs OK, I used to use NGK.
On oldish cars the wheel bearings can wear out, have a good look at these. While you are at it you might like to check the brakes, the calipers can easily seize up. It happened to a friend of mine.
On my mother's Focus the exhaust went at 5 years, is yours still the original?
Happy motoring.
Of interest my 06 Golf 1.9TDI Dash display has failed, is this a common occurance?
Switch offf the electrics and restart and it works fine, this is the second occurance.
Booked in for 2 weeks time to be sorted, apparantly they need all day incase of software loading glitches.
Liklehood of them letting me have a new Scirocco as a courtesy car? Read more
An ultra-shallow question: does the MG ZT have blue or orange backlit dials?
See, I told you it was shallow. But I'm easily sold by blue LEDs... :-) Read more
more info - on launch the ZT instrument pack lights were orange. during 2002 they changed to white and then 2003 facelift went to blue.
hth
My 1996 rover 216sli auto has been very good although only doing very low mileage, still only done 41K. Has been seeping coolant from the water pump, so requested garage to change pump, they stated that although the bearing was ok coolant had been seeping from the pump seal. New pump and cam belt fitted, drove home a distance of 5 miles all ok checked some 2 hours after and a large puddle of coolant was under the engine, this time instead of coming from the cam belt end it appears to be coming from under the thermostat housing? The engine has never overheated or missed a beat and on starting is still running swetly? Why would this new leak appear after having a water pump fitted and what could be the cause? and rectification, Thanks if anyone can help.
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Hi There,
I have a 97 1.1 Saxo (HDZ) - I bought it for my partner when it was a year old and it has been a great little car. Recent separation meant it coming back to me!
Recently I noticed an oil leak coming from the rocker cover seal so with funds a little low (divorce is very expensive!) I bought a Haynes and decided to tackle this and a few other jobs myself.
A week or so ago, the idle when starting on cold disappeared and I had to keep my foot on the accelerator until it warmed up - even then, the idle was around a clunky 500rpm.
So I thought it was a spark plug change needed. As I said, I've only just got the car back and I think the servicing etc has been neglected. The plugs that came out were a beautiful tan color - no issue there then.
The auto part I bought was a Denso K20TXR, which seems to be the right plug. I'm a little confused though because the original plugs had a single tab coming over the needle (a normal spark plug?) but these new Denso's were a double affair, and each one met the needle at the side instead of the top.
My problems began!
When I started the car there was o noticeable improvement in the idling, and when I attempted to drive it, it spluttered at 2000rpm. Upon looking at the internet, it looks like for some reason it has gone into a 'LIMP HOME' mode?
I took out the new plugs and noticed that one of them looked quite sooty (the nearest to the coil pack, which is a SAGEM), put the old ones back in, but alas, still the same symptoms - cutting out at 2000rpm.
Can you make any suggestions please?
Thanks :-)
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During some wiring fault tracing I inadvertently removed the underbonnet 10A "ALT/S" fuse which probably not a good idea when the ignition was on altho' engine not running. On replacing same there was a distinct click from I think the boost solenoid control area . Car seems to be running ok and no CEL's but for my future general knowledge is there a capacitator or similar in the alternator which could cause a surge of current when removing/replacing the said fuse which could damage the ecu or other components particularly if the ignition is on?
Tks
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Flash codes are easy to access and often useful - if there are any...
.......... diametrically opposite. It would make tyre inflation just that little bit easier because you could use whichever valve was the most convenient. Instead of struggling to use one in the bottom quarter of the wheel you could use one easily in the top quarter. Read more
It's just
>> one more step towards avoiding being relegated to a mobility scooter.
>>
Do they have bivalve wheels?
Most of them.
Browse
My car has an engine warning light. Book says "If it flashes reduce speed immediately, avoid heavy acceleration, and seek expert help." It also has an engine systems warning light. Book says "Stop immediately switch off engine and and seek expert help." This car does not have a service light. Previous cars have had service warning lights, the users manual could say words to th effect, "If service light on and performance reduced seek expert help asap".