August 2008
Forgive the length of my post
Two years ago my wife decided she wanted to buy a new car, something she?d never done before. She wanted a convertible and settled on the Ford StreetKa. We went and negotiated a good deal and she paid outright for it. Subsequently every encounter with the dealership, including the collection, has been marred by an incident of some sort, Friday was no exception.
Two weeks ago I phoned and booked her car in for a service. The guy I spoke to booked a ?value? service and engine flush, I explained the engine flush should be optional and I didn?t want it. He apologised and agreed. Now how many people wouldn?t know it?s optional and just go with it??? Anyway????..
Friday we drop the car off and get told ?that it?ll be £215 when we collect? .
EXCUSE ME !!!!!!
Their justification was that the ?value? service is only meant for cars over 3 years old and that by having that on our car it will invalidate the remainder of the warranty. It was at this point my wife realised what was coming and went quiet as I expressed my dissatisfaction in plain English. Only the full service would keep the warranty valid. We agreed to it as we want to sell it later this year and would like to say there is still the balance of the warranty. If I was a betting man I?d wager the service was done by the same technician, in the same bay and using the same parts and that Ford are making an extra £116 because people don?t want to lose their ?peace of mind?. How a main dealer can do a service and it invalidate the warranty is quite frankly ridiculous.
I am thinking of writing to their customer service department to demand an explanation:
a) Is it worth it?
b) Is there anything know that may bolster my argument?
Unfortunately this dealer has tainted the ownership of a car that she really enjoys.
To give them some credit they did take £30 off the bill but I'm still not happy.
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help, my car wont turn over, engine light is on, doesnt click or anything.
ive read a few similar problems on here and the earthing was suggested. ive checked and cleaned it. used the cable off a jump lead to attach the gearbox to body, that made no difference.
now if i put the ignition lights on then earth the starter motor under the bonnet it starts. and it will start from a push. just not from the key.
i have found no other things to try, please help, my legs are starting to knack, walking everywhere.
cheers Read more
Ignition switches are a common problem. If you have a test-lamp etc. then you can check that one terminal comes live when turned to start.
Hi all,
I'm getting a horrendous crunching sound from my 1997 vectra arctic. It mostly happens when using the clutch in low gears (junctions etc) and it has happened when stationary (happened loads stationary in a traffic jam yesterday when i was resting my feet). It has also happened when driving in 3rd gear a few times.
The sound only lasts a second or so and its getting more frequent. Tends to be worse on hot days, and it normally takes at least 10-15 mins worth of driving for the problem to start.
Vauxhall dealership want £300 just to look at gearbox and a possible further £850 for clutch/gearbox replacements. Given the age of the car, I'm a bit cautious about paying this without finding out more about the problem.
It had a recent MOT and they couldn't find anything when checking the clutch bearings. From looking at similar forums there is some discussion of clutch drag, replacing gearbox oil, syncos and linkage, clutch plate spring and thrust bearings related to similar problems. Has anyone had any experiences/ know what it is likely to be? And more importantly how much was it to rectify?
Appreciate your help
David
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From looking at similar forums there is some discussion of clutch drag replacing gearbox oil
syncos and linkage clutch plate spring and thrust bearings related to similar problems. Has anyone
had any experiences/ know what it is likely to be? And more importantly how much
was it to rectify?
Does sound like the clutch from what you've said.
When stationary, try holding the clutch pedal for a couple of seconds then change gear. Does it grind or baulk then? If so, then it's clutch drag.
Replacement clutch on Vectras isn't cheap I believe -- I think this model was an engine-out job, so at least £500.
Hi all,
Had an unfortunate incident where I had scratched the bumper of my A6 against an A5 in the Audi showroom car park.
The showroom contacted their recommended repairers who mentioned a repair figure of
hold your breath
£1133 for the A5
and £1624 for the A6
Mine is a 3 year old car and Im not sure whether I should ask my insurers whether to go along with their recommended repairers ,or the Audi showrooms recommendation.
It doesnt make any difference to me in terms of the cost as it hits me anyway , but what I was concerned about is whether there would be any difference in the quality of repair, between the two repairers..
Picture attached thanks for your opinion.
I can attach the list of items that their repairer has suggested to be repaired, practically the whole of the L front side which sounds like a bit of an excess quote.
[IMG]i37.tinypic.com/2nc2c7b.jpg[/IMG]
Is this the reason why we all end up paying more insurance premiums as a knock on effect , ie the inflated repair bill figures?
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Have you tried a bit of T-cut?
Afternoon all,
Well, just spent my morning removing, cleaning and reassembling the rear drum brakes on my car as squeeling was becoming an issue.
However, when checking the tyres for damage - I have a very deep cut (about 1cm long) in the centre of the tread on one of them.
So deep I can see white...
...not good eh?
So it is now my task for this afternoon - yep, tyre shopping.
I was supposed to be and was so looking forward to going fishing too.
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Has anyone any experience on removing the petrol tank from one of these cars?
Looking underneath there appears to be one retaining bolt on the leading edge of the tank and any others hidden up under the rear suspension framework.
It could potentially be an 'easy' job but I'm wondering if there are any hidden 'surprises'?
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I've removed one of these in the past and you do need to remove the rear subframe. You will need to de-pressurise it and it can then be easily removed. IIRC you can drop the from part of the subframe down and the tank will come out. When you've re-assembled it ,As a quick fix you can rpressurise the rear suspension with air - It will ' float' like a good water bed but it will be enough to get the car to the nearest service station to have it properly fluid filled.
8pm ch5
· Jason pits the VW Passat R36 against the Audi A4 3.0TDi
· Tim tests manufacturers' claims of 0-62mph acceleration times.
· Tom reviews the latest Honda Accord while accompanying the HM Plant Honda Superbike team on the North West 200 road race.
· Tiff goes up against two times World Speedway Champion, Jason Crump. Read more
It's pointless because as I've just seen it told you very little.
I totally agree about the education - that's what I was expecting as I am very interested in the Honda as it may suit our needs.
Unfortunately it boiled down to just mpg around town - but mid 50s from a 2.0TDi 110PS around Blackpool? It must have been a very quiet day with all the traffic lights on the Golden Mile set at green, or they did a good stretch of the M55 at 60mph.
I also noticed the Golf was a manual, the Honda isn't.
Mid 50s mpg from an auto petrol large enough for a family seems excellent to me, which is the comparison to be made.
Hi everone, I'm a new member to this forum as I've just been told about it by a family member.
I've had my 406 V reg for 11 months and bought it from a friend. Ever since I've had the car the front wipers haven't worked properly. They only stay on normal speed for about 30 seconds and then park in awkward places and the same goes for fast speed. They don't work on intermittent at all and when they are used in conjunction with the washers they do about 9 swipes and stop anywhere.
This problem has now caused it to fail the MOT and I've had the car off the road now for 12 weeks trying to sort the problem. I took it to my local Peugeot dealer who diagnosed the problem as the wiper motor but wanted £200 to replace it so I decided to get a second hand one from eBay. This had the same problem so I got another one and it too had the same problem.
I've now replaced the BSI with a brand new one and had it coded to the car by my local Peugeot dealer but the problem is still there. I thought the wiper relay was incorporated into the BSI on the Peugeot 406 but please tell me if I'm wrong. I've also replaced the wiper switch. I'm now investigating the wiper motor and have noticed that when the wiper switch is in the normal constant wipe mode it does about 9 or 10 wipes and stops and the same with the fast mode. I've also counted the revolutions of the motor and it doesn't stop in the same place ie it may do 9.5 turns or 9.75 turns but the last turn is never a full one hence the reason for the wipers not stopping in the same place every time. Can this be a motor fault or a relay problem.
Has anyone had the same problem and has anyone got a solution to this problem? Read more
Put a 12v supply direct to the wiper motor and see if it runs continiously if so its the actual stalk or more than likely the timer relay.
Just a general question not really specific to the make of car. {sorted}
The rubber door seals on our 11 year old Camry have perished in one place (maybe about a six inch strip)
I'm getting a bit of extra wind noise now and was wondering if it was possible to self-repair these or is it a bodyshop/main dealer (i.e. lots of dosh) job.
Does anyone know of universal door seal that can be bought and are they any good?
Can I cut out the perished section and just patch a piece into that or does it have to be the whole door seal?
Many thanks in advance
Steve Read more
Your local scrap (sorry, car dismantler) may have something suitable.
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