April 2008
The central locking system has stopped flashing the indicators when I lock the car.
The normal procedure would be to press twice, one to lock and another press to deadlock.
The car still appears to lock correctly, which I can ascertain by trying the handles.
On unlocking the car, the indicators flash as normal.
Should I just live with this as all seems to be working, or should I investigate the solenoids etc. in the door locks.
( I've had a look where the wiring loom goes from the body to the doors in case of corrosion on the plugs, but there are no plugs on the car. )
Any suggestions please. Read more
Does anybody have any experience or first hand knowledge whether it is possible to remove the rear seats from a Suzuki Jimny and fit a dog box for transporting 2 Labradors.
Thanks guys............MD Read more
I was advised to steer clear of the Vitara due to build quality, but from what you say maybe I'll have a look. Cheers.
VBR...........MD
Can anyone please tell me how to reset the service indicator on a 55 plate VW Passat estate 1.9tdi? This is the new shape car with the PD engine.
There are instructions of a sort in the owners handbook, but they either flat out don't work, or I am failing to follow them correctly. If you have seen these instructions you probably know what I mean.
I get the car serviced locally every 10k from a friendly mechanic, with full genuine VW parts and oil, which helps keep the cost down, but he has no gear to do the service reset.
Originally tacked onto a 2005 thread, but the glue hadn't taken so I moved it into a standalone thread Read more
where exactly is the button?
I have my first technical issue with the 325D and I'm not really sure how to deal with it in the short term.
The car has only covered about 200 miles in its short life since new. Out of idle curiosity I checked the oil level today at the dipstick. It was at the minimum mark. I didn't check it when I took delivery, taking it for granted that BMW and its dealers would know more about putting oil in a car than I would ever find of interest. This may have been a tactical error. Neither I did not bother to find out the manufacturer's recommended oil. I had intended to follow HJ's running in advice and leave it untouched for a year.
1) Does the minimum oil level indicate underfilling at PDI;
2) Or, Excessive oil consumption;
3) And if 2 is true how is that usually manifested (other than at the dipstick)? There is no oil on the garage floor; I don't see any black smoke when driving.
I can probably arrive at a answer to 1) and 2) by putting in some more oil and observing the results. What oil to buy? I have a tub of Castrol Magnatec 10/40 which has been sitting on a shelf in the garage unused for about 4 years because my previous Audi didn't use any oil at all between services. Should I still use that ?
Maybe I should just have bought a banger and it would have been less of a worry.
Advice gratefully received. Read more
I've been driving BMW Diesels for a few years, and have had several models including the 118d, 120d, 123d, 318d and now a 325d (E92) 6-cyl 3 litre.
All of them have shown a reasonable amount of oil-burn in the first 1000 miles or so (up to a litre). After that, they burn no more oil in my experience....
When my Astra (2.0 tdi 2002) warms up the rev needle drops to zero and it starts idling. A diagnostic check later and one mechanic claims that the fuel pump needs replacing as does the ECU and another says its the ECU and faulty speed sensor.
The total cost of repair (from each mechanic) is about £700 (plus VAT) not to mention the labour. Has anybody had a similar problem and do they know a cheaper method of resolving this?
Grateful for any suggestions on how to deal with this.
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Thanks for advice Screwloose and PVCU man.
That's it really, just wanted to say we bought one. Very nice little car. Read more
Thanks, we went for red as well - its a 'nice' red and I think bright colours suit small cars well.
Hoping someone can help with this issue (have almost exausted all avenues on this issue) ........
I drive a 2003 E46 320d sport saloon (125,500 miles on the clock) - I am experiencing power loss problems. The turbo doesn't seem to be delivering full boost. The car has had the following work done ......
1. Turbo & CAT replaced at 110 k miles - turbo worked perfectly after replacement - independant garage did the work.
2. Fuel pumps & filter (tank & intermediate pumps) replaced at 125 k miles - independant garage did the work.
3. All 4 injectors & fuel pump relay replaced at 125 k miles - main fuel pump checked and passed as ok - main BMW dealer did the work (4 new injectors & relay switch).
4. Air Mass meter & air filter replaced at 125 k miles - independant garage did the work.
Car has been put on computers at main dealers and 2 independent garages with no faults showing up - however all agree that car is not boosting properly. last garage checked boost pressure and said all was ok (no turbo leaks etc evident). However the shove / turbo that was evident from 1750 - 3000 revs before seems to have reduced/dissapeared. The fuel pump and finally the injectors needed to be changed when the car developed starting problems (low compression in the injector rail) - the power loss problem also seemed to appear around this time.
I would appreciate any ideas you may have as to what the problem as at this stage I don't know what my next move should be. The problem initially became noticeable before the fuel injectors were changed (i assumed changing the leaking injectors would solve the issue). So much for the ultimate driving machine mantra!!!
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thank you for your reply, yeah the battery is spinning over ok.....
My car has just developed a clutch / starter problem, and the problem has been diagnosed as a Dual Mass flywheel failure. To rectify this it requires complete new clutch assembly new dual mass flywheel and possible new starter motor.
My Question:- Can the dual mass flywheel be replaced with a solid flywheel without causing any future problems. These are advertised on e.bay and state never having to replace the flywheel again.
My Car is a Ford Mondeo 2.0 tdci 130 ps 6 speed.
You thoughts please gentlemen Read more
some manufactures do go back to soild flywheels if they have a lot of warranty
claims with d/mass flywheels.I have fitted solid flywheels for people as they wanted a cheap
job and have no come backs..
hi there ive just been told the DM flywheel away on my 01 mondeo estate, i see you said you have changed to standard flywheels and aint much difference but its a cheaper job. What kind of price would it be for standard compared to DM??
Hi
I have just bought a Nov 06 Avensis T3-S 2.0 Diesel.
Presumably the Sat Nav users the middle display, it has the buttons down the side but I cannot work out how to use it. Any advice please. The hand book only refers to the posh one.
Also is it possible to upgrade the sat nav please.
Regards Keith Read more
I drive the 04 plate Avensis, the sat nav does not use postcodes,but name of roads. If you know how it works like i do, its spot on. I do not mind educating u opn how to use it,i felt same way as you guys initially.
Hi there, I know this is an old post but if you still wouldn't mind telling me how to use it i'd be V grateful. I have a button saying destination / reroute and sadly can't get ny further than that as i can't see how to - there doesnt seem to be any way for me to enter anything? Very confused, any help would be fab... its a 55 plate avensis 2.2 T3s... Cheers.
Has anyone experienced or know of a similar problem to my 52 plate Civic? When I am driving my Electronic Power Steering Light flickers on the dashboard and my steering goes heavy as the power steering jumps on an off. However when I switch on my headlights the fault goes away! Am I looking at a faulty earth connection somewhere or is there a major problem occurring? Read more
I have got a simular problem.
The heat cover over the cat convertor fell off damaging the lander sensor wires, at the same time the EPS light stated to come on intermitantly, plus the engine warning light stays on permantly, plus the battery is no longer getting charged.
Does anyone know how these are all linked to the lander sensor wires?????????
All happend at the exact same time the lander sensor wires were damaged, they are not snapped just 2 out of the 3 wires have been stripped back.
Ian
Browse
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The handbook says you have to hit the button twice to activate the deadlock I think - certainly on my Focus the indicator light will flash twice when you do this, although the car will lock without flashing on one click.
There are 33 pages in Ford`s handbook on locking systems (there appear to be at least four different versions).
This item was clearly designed by a committee which could agree on very little.
I don`t think you really have a big probem. Mine sometimes won`t lock/unlock without lots of clicking - maybe the battery is flat.
Try a Renault, they seem to be much simpler. (an autocrat in charge?)
AS