April 2008
I have my first technical issue with the 325D and I'm not really sure how to deal with it in the short term.
The car has only covered about 200 miles in its short life since new. Out of idle curiosity I checked the oil level today at the dipstick. It was at the minimum mark. I didn't check it when I took delivery, taking it for granted that BMW and its dealers would know more about putting oil in a car than I would ever find of interest. This may have been a tactical error. Neither I did not bother to find out the manufacturer's recommended oil. I had intended to follow HJ's running in advice and leave it untouched for a year.
1) Does the minimum oil level indicate underfilling at PDI;
2) Or, Excessive oil consumption;
3) And if 2 is true how is that usually manifested (other than at the dipstick)? There is no oil on the garage floor; I don't see any black smoke when driving.
I can probably arrive at a answer to 1) and 2) by putting in some more oil and observing the results. What oil to buy? I have a tub of Castrol Magnatec 10/40 which has been sitting on a shelf in the garage unused for about 4 years because my previous Audi didn't use any oil at all between services. Should I still use that ?
Maybe I should just have bought a banger and it would have been less of a worry.
Advice gratefully received. Read more
When my Astra (2.0 tdi 2002) warms up the rev needle drops to zero and it starts idling. A diagnostic check later and one mechanic claims that the fuel pump needs replacing as does the ECU and another says its the ECU and faulty speed sensor.
The total cost of repair (from each mechanic) is about £700 (plus VAT) not to mention the labour. Has anybody had a similar problem and do they know a cheaper method of resolving this?
Grateful for any suggestions on how to deal with this.
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Thanks for advice Screwloose and PVCU man.
That's it really, just wanted to say we bought one. Very nice little car. Read more
Thanks, we went for red as well - its a 'nice' red and I think bright colours suit small cars well.
Hoping someone can help with this issue (have almost exausted all avenues on this issue) ........
I drive a 2003 E46 320d sport saloon (125,500 miles on the clock) - I am experiencing power loss problems. The turbo doesn't seem to be delivering full boost. The car has had the following work done ......
1. Turbo & CAT replaced at 110 k miles - turbo worked perfectly after replacement - independant garage did the work.
2. Fuel pumps & filter (tank & intermediate pumps) replaced at 125 k miles - independant garage did the work.
3. All 4 injectors & fuel pump relay replaced at 125 k miles - main fuel pump checked and passed as ok - main BMW dealer did the work (4 new injectors & relay switch).
4. Air Mass meter & air filter replaced at 125 k miles - independant garage did the work.
Car has been put on computers at main dealers and 2 independent garages with no faults showing up - however all agree that car is not boosting properly. last garage checked boost pressure and said all was ok (no turbo leaks etc evident). However the shove / turbo that was evident from 1750 - 3000 revs before seems to have reduced/dissapeared. The fuel pump and finally the injectors needed to be changed when the car developed starting problems (low compression in the injector rail) - the power loss problem also seemed to appear around this time.
I would appreciate any ideas you may have as to what the problem as at this stage I don't know what my next move should be. The problem initially became noticeable before the fuel injectors were changed (i assumed changing the leaking injectors would solve the issue). So much for the ultimate driving machine mantra!!!
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thank you for your reply, yeah the battery is spinning over ok.....
My car has just developed a clutch / starter problem, and the problem has been diagnosed as a Dual Mass flywheel failure. To rectify this it requires complete new clutch assembly new dual mass flywheel and possible new starter motor.
My Question:- Can the dual mass flywheel be replaced with a solid flywheel without causing any future problems. These are advertised on e.bay and state never having to replace the flywheel again.
My Car is a Ford Mondeo 2.0 tdci 130 ps 6 speed.
You thoughts please gentlemen Read more
some manufactures do go back to soild flywheels if they have a lot of warranty
claims with d/mass flywheels.I have fitted solid flywheels for people as they wanted a cheap
job and have no come backs..
hi there ive just been told the DM flywheel away on my 01 mondeo estate, i see you said you have changed to standard flywheels and aint much difference but its a cheaper job. What kind of price would it be for standard compared to DM??
Hi
I have just bought a Nov 06 Avensis T3-S 2.0 Diesel.
Presumably the Sat Nav users the middle display, it has the buttons down the side but I cannot work out how to use it. Any advice please. The hand book only refers to the posh one.
Also is it possible to upgrade the sat nav please.
Regards Keith Read more
I drive the 04 plate Avensis, the sat nav does not use postcodes,but name of roads. If you know how it works like i do, its spot on. I do not mind educating u opn how to use it,i felt same way as you guys initially.
Hi there, I know this is an old post but if you still wouldn't mind telling me how to use it i'd be V grateful. I have a button saying destination / reroute and sadly can't get ny further than that as i can't see how to - there doesnt seem to be any way for me to enter anything? Very confused, any help would be fab... its a 55 plate avensis 2.2 T3s... Cheers.
Has anyone experienced or know of a similar problem to my 52 plate Civic? When I am driving my Electronic Power Steering Light flickers on the dashboard and my steering goes heavy as the power steering jumps on an off. However when I switch on my headlights the fault goes away! Am I looking at a faulty earth connection somewhere or is there a major problem occurring? Read more
I have got a simular problem.
The heat cover over the cat convertor fell off damaging the lander sensor wires, at the same time the EPS light stated to come on intermitantly, plus the engine warning light stays on permantly, plus the battery is no longer getting charged.
Does anyone know how these are all linked to the lander sensor wires?????????
All happend at the exact same time the lander sensor wires were damaged, they are not snapped just 2 out of the 3 wires have been stripped back.
Ian
bought car last year 02 38000 miles on clock no mot problems made aware of have only done about 4000 miles in first year but failed on mot can you tell me how long the following should last on this car
n/f/b disc excessively worn
o/f/b disc excessively worn
o/f/ front constant velocity joint gaiter insecurely mounted to its housing
n/f track rod end ball joint has excessive play
o/f/track end ball joint has excessive play
n/r (axle) suspension arm has excessive play in a pin/bush
o/r (axle bush) suspension arm has excessive play in a pin/bush
what do think after just 4000 miles
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One of the technicians where I work bought a diesel Laguna (he wanted something torquey to tow his caravan). It was a very tidy low-mileage example from a main dealer. The car went wrong so frequently that it has become a coffee break joke to ask him what the fault is each week. The car seems staggeringly unreliable. Strangely he is remarkably calm about the whole business and just keeps taking it for repair! I would have smashed it apart with my bare hands by now.
I am planning to fit new piston rings to my smokey 1.6 focus auto engine but a mechanic has told me that its not advisable to remove the con rods from the crankshaft.
Does anyone know if this is correct or not? and if it is correct what is the reasoning behind it?
Your caps lock key appears to be broken. People don't like to be SHOUTED at. Amended wording, but please fix before posting again. ps, I see no mention of year either! See sticky posts up above for reference
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Hi jml, did you have success changing your piston rings. Did you attempt the job after the comments warning you not to try?
Just to let anyone else know I've come across a few aluminium block 1.6 zetecs and they've been heavy smokers and heavy oil consumption. Some have broken down with EML warning on, fault codes often misfire faults. When stripped down some had badly pitted exhaust valves with a few having the odd burnt out valve. On further investigation the oil control rings on ALL pistons were severely stuck (gummed), totally inoperative. Also second compression rings were also starting to stick, with the carbon build up in all of the piston ring grooves similar to what I'd expect to see in a much higher mileage engine.
Hi I brought my new Colt CZC at the end of last year but have encountered so many problems with mitsubishi. My car has a water leak from the roof and has been in for repair twice (the second time they had my car for 4 wks and it had to be transported to Head Office to be fixed). However when I washed my car last week and was rinsing it, again water dripped through. It has to go back for the 3rd time. I have had such a battle on my hands with Mitsubishi, not returning my calls etc and not caring - customer care is appauling.
Has anyone else experienced this problem with their car leaking or advise me what to do as I am pulling my hair out! I love this car but the problems have taken the shine of having a nice new car taken away and never again shall I buy a Mitsubishi - I wouldnt recommend them to my worst enemy!!!
Avoid them!! Read more
I've been reading this thread with interest as I've been considering a Mitsubishi Outlander as my next car, but it seems like their customer service is severely lacking. Combined with my experiences with toyota recently, and rusty mazdas I think I'll go for a european brand car next!
Browse
I've been driving BMW Diesels for a few years, and have had several models including the 118d, 120d, 123d, 318d and now a 325d (E92) 6-cyl 3 litre.
All of them have shown a reasonable amount of oil-burn in the first 1000 miles or so (up to a litre). After that, they burn no more oil in my experience....