April 2008
bought car last year 02 38000 miles on clock no mot problems made aware of have only done about 4000 miles in first year but failed on mot can you tell me how long the following should last on this car
n/f/b disc excessively worn
o/f/b disc excessively worn
o/f/ front constant velocity joint gaiter insecurely mounted to its housing
n/f track rod end ball joint has excessive play
o/f/track end ball joint has excessive play
n/r (axle) suspension arm has excessive play in a pin/bush
o/r (axle bush) suspension arm has excessive play in a pin/bush
what do think after just 4000 miles
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I am planning to fit new piston rings to my smokey 1.6 focus auto engine but a mechanic has told me that its not advisable to remove the con rods from the crankshaft.
Does anyone know if this is correct or not? and if it is correct what is the reasoning behind it?
Your caps lock key appears to be broken. People don't like to be SHOUTED at. Amended wording, but please fix before posting again. ps, I see no mention of year either! See sticky posts up above for reference
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Hi jml, did you have success changing your piston rings. Did you attempt the job after the comments warning you not to try?
Just to let anyone else know I've come across a few aluminium block 1.6 zetecs and they've been heavy smokers and heavy oil consumption. Some have broken down with EML warning on, fault codes often misfire faults. When stripped down some had badly pitted exhaust valves with a few having the odd burnt out valve. On further investigation the oil control rings on ALL pistons were severely stuck (gummed), totally inoperative. Also second compression rings were also starting to stick, with the carbon build up in all of the piston ring grooves similar to what I'd expect to see in a much higher mileage engine.
Hi I brought my new Colt CZC at the end of last year but have encountered so many problems with mitsubishi. My car has a water leak from the roof and has been in for repair twice (the second time they had my car for 4 wks and it had to be transported to Head Office to be fixed). However when I washed my car last week and was rinsing it, again water dripped through. It has to go back for the 3rd time. I have had such a battle on my hands with Mitsubishi, not returning my calls etc and not caring - customer care is appauling.
Has anyone else experienced this problem with their car leaking or advise me what to do as I am pulling my hair out! I love this car but the problems have taken the shine of having a nice new car taken away and never again shall I buy a Mitsubishi - I wouldnt recommend them to my worst enemy!!!
Avoid them!! Read more
I've been reading this thread with interest as I've been considering a Mitsubishi Outlander as my next car, but it seems like their customer service is severely lacking. Combined with my experiences with toyota recently, and rusty mazdas I think I'll go for a european brand car next!
has anyone got a easy way to renew anti roll bar bushes on a 2001 fiesta i have looked and it seems you can get one bolt out easy but one will hit the builk head and i do not want to drop the crossmember any easy tips thanks
{year added to subject header. Obvious the 2 sticky posts at the top of the page are playing hide and seek again which can be the only explanation why you missed them!} Read more
Hi,
I have taken a look at my car so as to be sure I know what I am doing before I start.
If I have got this right, the alignment holes are slightly oval, allowing a small amount of lateral movement. Can anyone explain why it is like that?
I also find that the alignment has not been done exactly - one side is a few millimetres forward and the other side is about the same distance back.
I bought the car when it was already 5 yeard old, so I do not know what happened to it previously, but I did have the clutch replaced soon after I got it. Is it possible that the crossmember was not properly re-aligned when this work was done?
I have not had uneven tyre wear and I have not noticed any problems in handling, so how precice does alignment need to be? It appears to be fairly hit-or-miss. Is there any need to have the alignment checked by a specialist?
Mike.
engine has just become very noisey, appears to be choking and losing power. noise increases with rpm and sounds like a piece of metal would in the spokes of a moving bicycle. the noise also 'runs on' after the throttle has been released when driving.
i am thinking it is something to do with the turbo but would appreciate any advice on being able to pinpoint the problem. Read more
my car had the same problem it turned out to be the turbo on the maifold a garnet part i lost power a had lots of white smoke and the car seemed to be only working on 3 cyclnders
A friend's focus has intermittently not locked/unlocked the offside rear passenger door. As of this morning it won't lock at all now, and apparently she can't lock it from the inside either so the door is permantly unlocked.
I was going to have a quick look this evening for her and give it some WD40 in the lock mechanism and any electrical contacts.
Is this a common problem? Is it likely to be the lock motor dying/dead? How much are replacements?
Thanks! Read more
Hi,
I'd be interested to find out what the solution was to your problem. I have a 1.8 Focus, 2001 reg. In the 4 years I've had it, I've had numerous problems with the central locking, including two locks being replaced.
The problem has now come back and I've been told by the dealer that all 4 door locks need to be replaced as well as the central locking module. This is going to work out at around a grand, I think, for a 7 year old car!
I'm not sure if I'm being ripped off or if there's really no alternative.
Be interested to hear of anyone with smilar experiences and their solutions.
CP
snipquote
Can some nice person tell me the torque figure for 1993 Nissan Micra front hub nut!
Once again ta in advance.
Marty.
{some repeated words removed from subject line} Read more
Much appreciated Screwloose, thank you!
Hi,
Just had a bit of a worrying experience. I was approaching a roundabout after a few miles at around 60mph, when I applied the brake there was very little response. Luckily I was able to stop in time and my brakes gradually improved after that. Could this be brake fade? If so what could be causing it? I've also felt as if the brakes are maybe sticking on as sometimes I feel as if the car is dragging as I accelerate.
Also I've felt as if there is a 'wobble/lumpy' feeling from the front when rolling at a slow speed, could this be warped discs?
Thanks
flatcap
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>>Do you think my car would have passed an mot with me needing to replace all I had to 2 months and 400 miles down the line?
The pass criteria isn't exactly challenging.
Wouldn't mind one these but what do you reckon folks: revvy little petrol or a torquier diesel? I am drawn to the latter but I still link little FIATS to revvy little petrol engines. Any feedback from those in the know or owners of both cars?
I note that the 1.2 is based on the old FIRE engine that over 20 years old but it was a terrific engine in my old Uno (first car), outlasted the rest of the car. Now significantly undersquare though so is it still free revving? HJ used to say in his yearbook that this FIRE engine was good for three times round the clock if looked after. Read more
A vote for Multijet economy here - have been using ours for work this week. Not driving particularly gently, I have achieved 59 mpg brim-to-brim. The 100HP (which has done a fair amount of urban with Mrs B and a couple of bootings from me) has managed 36 mpg.
What is instructive is that we filled both of them up earlier with (as it turned out) almost the same quantity of fuel (22 litres) and the MJ had gone 106 miles further. Shame it still cost £27...
Been searching for a cover that fits my Celica convertible - not having much joy , noticed a product called "Permabag"
Seems to be a huge bag that has a "divers zip" that is impervious to water.
You open it out, drive the car on to it, and zip it in.
Inside are cannisters of dessicant that absorb the moisture, and also a little digital hydrometer so you can see the humidity inside.
Cannisters of dessicant can be regenerated by baking in your cookers oven.
Seems to have the advantage that as it competely encapsulates the car, even from underneah, and its completely waterproof ( and so has the dessicant) that fit isnt such a problem - bad fits seems to leave puddles on covers thateventually leak through to the car underneath.
It costs about £350 which is about the same as a Covercraft or other top brand cover.
Looks quite a good idea - has anyone got any experience ???
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I bought one for my SLK - I stored it for 3 years mainly to protect from mice. I took it out 3 times in this time and on returning it last week the zip failed. It's probably been opened 6 times in total. I emailed the company and have followed up a number of times - not a single reply. Good idea and works well in use, but it's a £685 investment and neither the quaity nor the service justify this.
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One of the technicians where I work bought a diesel Laguna (he wanted something torquey to tow his caravan). It was a very tidy low-mileage example from a main dealer. The car went wrong so frequently that it has become a coffee break joke to ask him what the fault is each week. The car seems staggeringly unreliable. Strangely he is remarkably calm about the whole business and just keeps taking it for repair! I would have smashed it apart with my bare hands by now.