April 2012
Hi,
I bought a dispatch van yesterday and the seller advised me that it needed a new oil filter, after driving 110 miles back home all was fine, the van was firing up great and driving well.... Read more
Hello each, I realise this subject has probably been covered previously, but humour me. My '55 plate Superb has the makers built in sat nav system. The original dvd disc was over £120 +VAT six years ago. I am loath to shell out an even larger amount now just to update a few new roads etc. and the car may last another 6 years or 6 months; who knows. Is there a reliable method or company that can update my system for a reasonable sum? Someone on the forum will have the answers. Thank you. Concrete Read more
The discs in that link are not genuine. You might as well download your own copies for free rather than pay someone else to do the same thing!
Astra SXI, 1.6 Petrol, 2002, 5 doors. Since I bought it a month ago, it had Engine cooling light ON, the Yellow light with a fan over a Radiator. I thought it would be a matter of just topping up the coolant but it was something more than that. Neither the Radiator fan nor the Aircon fan kicks in no matter what you do. Luckily the car does not heat up during normal driving; it’s only at idle that the car heats up till the coolant is sprayed all over, suppose the air striking the radiator while driving cools it down. The fan works when supplied direct current. The temperature gage is also working. All fused checked and ok. Need help...Thanks Read more
hows it the head gasket?
Does anyone know what is the latest with this engine.
Are the problems sorted?... Read more
Have a look at the new Volvo V40 with one of the two petrol turbo engines. IIRC they come in 148 and 178 BHP versions (T3 and T4)
hi i have a renault kangoo 2004 1.5 diesel and the heating light stays on but there is no problem with the heating in the van.can anyone help me with this or come across this before,i would be very grateful,thanks. Read more
I agree - you need to know the fault code. Your breakdown service will come out to read it especially if you're in the next town and tell 'em you don't want to continue your journey until you know it's safe to do so. In fact, you should have done that when the light first stayed on! You're driving it with the light on and yet the code generated might be pointing to a looming catastrophic failure! I drive with my little yellow light on, though, because the code is for 'EGR performance' and it comes and goes. I'm waiting for a spell of dry weather so's I can get the EGR valve off - complete with it's exhaust gas cooler pipe and all the top of the engine including fuel filter to get at it!! I got myself a forty-quid fault code reader from my local car parts shop so that I can make sure that's the only code showing!
Afternoon all
Looking for some advice on how best to proceed with a problem I am having.
I purchased a Honda crv in December. Car was a 58 plate with 40k on the clock.
Have had a few problems with the car since purchase. None of the wheels were balanced. The diff hadn't been serviced properly and there were vibrations coming through the steering wheel.
These were rectified by the company I bought the car from after I noticed them.
Now for the past few weeks my brakes have been starting to squeal. I put it down to them needing some copper grease as I was advised when I purchased the car (still have the emails from the dealer) that the discs were new and front and rear pads had 30 & 20 percent wear respectively.
Had the car in to Honda today and they've confirmed the rear pads are down to over 90% worn and both front and rear assembly's need a complete clean out as the pistons are starting to seize. I've also found out today that the car is not mot'd.
How do I stand legally with this? I'm forking out over £200 today to get my brakes sorted and I intend on recouping this from the dealers. What chance do I have? Read more
Thanks for your reply but i don't think I'll take you up on your advice. If you think it's acceptable to lie to customers and sell a car with so many faults then more fool you.
So you buy a car with no MOT and the above poster is a fool, have you tried politics?, you would go far.
i have got this fault code coming up p1431 the car is a renault grand scenic 1.9 dci 2006 i have had the particulate filter changed also the turbo actuator replaced the car was running fine for a week and now there is no power it wont go over 50 anybody got any ideas... Read more
hi
if you have problems with egr after replacing dpf all soot from the engine would go to the dpf straight away . That's why it propably clogged up dpf again. How much did it cost you to change dpf filter? Why you didn't decide to remove dpf completely?
Hi, I've been having a few intermittent problems starting my old car smoothly (i.e. it turns over for a while before it fires - nothing too bad, but indicating something amiss), so thought the time was right to get a new car. Got a new car from an independent dealer and traded my old car in. When i got there, he checked out my car to be traded, started it a couple of times and was happy to progress. He noted that it took a little while to fire, but was happy that it was going straight to auction, so said that was nothing to worry about. I drove home happy in my new car - unitl he rang me about an hour later saying that he couldnt start my old car and started giving me a moral lecture. I'm of the opinion it was sold as seen, but is there any legal comeback from a trade-in that has been accepted? I thought a trade-in was supposed to be stress free!
Thanks. Read more
That's not fair Tony,
I was not involved in the negotiations, nor did I advise him to keep schtum about the pump. I went with him to pick the car up, that's all. What did you expect me to do, go and tell the salesman about the pump?...
I have a Focus 2006 1.8 TDCI, 120k, drives fine but I notice a noise at idle (from inside the car, only just audible but definitely there) which is hard to describe, like a metallic rattling, irregular, like some small metal bits are loose and rattling around!
I have found it only occurs when the engine is fully warm, when cold or partially warm, I can't hear it. Also, it seems to go away when I depress the clutch.... Read more
Ok I will consider changing the gearbox oil, or at least topping it up!
Thanks for all the advice.
I am really hoping that someone can offer me some advice on what to do next. I have a 57 plate golf 2.0 tdi gt. I have just had my clutch and dual mass flywheel replaced by my local garage (not vw). When I first got the car back the biting point was literally right at the top and very 'lurchy' when I pulled away, the next day it started to become very difficult to get the car into gear (to the point i was worried the gear stick would snap)and eventually to the point where it was impossible and I broke down. The garage took the car back in and told me it was a faulty clutch and they would replace it, the next day they called and said it still wasn't right and they were looking in to it. Eventually they came back and said that it was the dual mass flywheel that was faulty and that they would replace it. So third time lucky I got my car back and it appeared initially to be ok, but I noticed that there was a slight juddering when pulling off in first gear and reverse. Its also generally just not as smooth driving as it was before I had the work done. So I took it back for them to look at thinking that it would be down to the dmf again however they have said that they think it's the gearbox and it's likely I will need a new one but it will cost £200 for the labour just to find out! I would be fine with this however having just had the issues that I have had with them I am wondering if they could have potentially caused damage to my gearbox due to the faulty work/ parts. I really feel they should be looking at this free of charge and I'm wondering what to do next. They did say if they replace the gearbox they will chuck in another new clutch & dmf as a gesture of good will due to the problems I had, which I find a bit strange, would these new parts be needed AGAIN? However thy have actually suggested I part ex the car to avoid more expensive repairs. I really not want to do this. I am now wondering what to do, whether I should bite the bullet and pay to have it looked at and potentially spend another 2k for new gearbox, or if I should insist they look at it FOC . I am also wondering if I took the car to a specialist if they could determine that damage is due to them and then I would be in a good position to insist they repair my car at their own cost. Now the car has done 104000 miles and the garage did tell me that at this mileage & in particular with the 6 speed gearbox that it is common to need gearbox replacement. But for this to happen literally as soon as they had such trouble with the clutch & dmf is a bit close for comfort! Any advice you can offer me would be very very much appreciated. Thanks!!! Read more
Do please let us know how you get on....best of luck.
Robin the Technician...
He said it had been leaking.....for a while!!!