March 2012
Hi all i have a 2006 vauxhall vivaro 1.9 dti a few months back i had a diagnostics check on it and it came back with a faulty maf sensor so i bought a new one off ebay for £30 i fitted it and it seemed ok but not alot better i had another diagnostics check on it and it came back with three different fault codes to the original code these are as follows P0100-not present (maf sensor) P0400-not present (egr valve) P0113-not prsent (intake air temp sensor) after a bit of research it seems the cheap maf i bought of ebay has a bit of a bad reputation for being of substandard quality so i bought one from a local motor factors for £120 i fitted this cleaned the egr and took the van out for a spin and all seemed to be well the van pulled alot better idle revs didnt drop as they did before no lack of power when cold and the black smoke had dissapeared sorted i thought got back home and ran another diagnostics and annoyingly i got the same 3 fault codes i put this down to my opcom being rubbish as everythimg seemed so much better but this morning a day after fitting the new maf i started the van up and all the probs where back again it runs better than before but still the smoke and the dropping idle revs. The revs drop to nearly 0 when i brake for a junction it dosnt quite cut out but is close to it as soon as i release the brakes the rvs go back to a normal 850? im now thinking perhaps ive disturbed a dodgy wire going to maf does anybody have any ideas on how i can check this any input would be appretiated.
many thanks graham Read more
2003 Vectra C 1.8 718XE engine 50500 miles
I have owned the above vehicle from new. A the beginning of October last the temperature gauge started showing a very low reading and a faulty thermostat was diagnosed which was replaced and all seemed well although the gauge did not appear to show as high a reading as before the change, Now during the last few weeks the temperature gauge hardly moves off the stop position even on quite long runs, following a run if the engine is turned off and left for say 5 minutes and then restarted the gauge shows near the 100c mark but drops back to just of the stop position when the vehicle has been driven for approx 1/4 mile, also there are times when the qauge reading fluctuates between cold and half way to the 80c mark. The Hahnes manual says the thermostat should open at 92c but at the moment the temperature is not getting anywhere near that. I assume the correct themostat has been fitted and is ok.... Read more
Damn, missed the edit window.
The thermostat housing is, as with much on these engines, held on with those bolts that have heads that look like the business end of a torx driver (external torx bolts). You'll need the appropriate 10mm external torx socket to get 'em off....
I need to top up power steering ASAP and according to manual fluid should be Total Fluide AT42-PR 9730.A3. Local pug dealer said he had some in so went to get it and dealer gave me Total Fluide AT DA which is as 9730.A5 spec. Ever so unhelpful counter assistant said "this is the only one we use for electric power steering pumps" it's what you asked for. Er no I asked for AT42-PR. Told to either take it of leave it.
Took but not topped up yet. It's similar in colour. Will it suffice? Any problems mixing them??... Read more
Thank you MrEckerslikefromRamsbottom. I'll get it done later and let you know how it gets on. Stupid price as ever from a dealer.
anyone had any problems with power steering,6 month old kuga power steering failed 5 times unable to move wheel nothing showing on computer .dealer saying unless something shows nothing they can do.we not sure what to do next. spoken to ford waste of time Read more
time to reject as not fit for purpose !
Also time for some of these manufactures & dealesr to wake up to customer service
My mk1 focus 1.8 idles at 650-700rpm when stationary and sounds like it is low on power and stutters. When driving normally it seems fine. A second, lesser problem is that sometimes it takes several turns of the engine to start up the car but other times its instant. This is at around 8 to 10c temperature. There are no engine warning lights that light up.
Further info:... Read more
Thanks, it's still running fine so problem seems to have sorted itself.
Ok, so just bought my focus and noticed slight coolant leak, turned out to be thermostat housing, new coolant, new housing all sorted.
Car starts and runs fine temperature gauge moves up to correct central position then whilst driving it drops back down to cold, few minutes later back up to the centre ??... Read more
Just to give you an idea of the parts cost;Housing is £78.44;T/stat £14.08;outlet housing(if used)£25.32;and a couple of seals for around £4.(all prices plus vat).If you have paid a lot less for the parts ,then they are not Ford original.hth
I'm looking at 05 or 06 reg volvo s40. i know the 1.6 is fords 1.6 zetec, but is the 1.8 and 2.0 the mazda mzr or the old ford zetec? Read more
I had the 2.0 MZR in a mazda 6; 4 speed auto
Long motorway journeys would give me around 40 (best was 42mpg)...
Driving home tonight, the engine services light came on.
I drove about half a mile home then checked the oil and coolant.... Read more
Update,Lamp has gone off! Service is up to date, C180, 100,500 miles.
I have an intermittent diesel leak from around the back of the injector pump somewhere. The pump itself is dry on the outside, all around the injectors, glow plugs, the high-pressure pipes are all clean and dry; but underneath and behind that there is evidence of a diesel leak. The back of the car also gets covered in diesel when it is leaking, including the rear window, which is how I know when it's happening.
It only leaks on warm days when I am driving at about 60 - 70 mph, or if I am accelerating hard up a hill. The rest of the time I cannot make it leak even when I try (or at the garage when they try). We steam-cleaned the engine, then revved the nuts off it with the bonnet up, looking for the source of the leak. Then we put it on a ramp, more revving, but still no leakage.... Read more
Hi! The warm weather is here, and so is my diesel leak. I tried the bandages trick, and it worked, thank you very much. The culprit was the return hose from the injectors to the high-pressure pump.
The hoses appear to be in fairly good shape, but there is a little non-return valve mounted inline (it's about 15mm long) to stop the pump from pumping diesel straight back to the injectors, I guess. It was not allowing fuel to return, the only problem being that it wasn't allowing fuel to pass in the correct direction either. I suspect that is the cause of my leak....
There was a related thread on this back in 2002 www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=4279, but none of the questions or answers quite covered my (and my husband's) situation.
We are New Zealanders with dual citizenship by descent - he has Irish citizenship (though his first visit to Ireland will be later this year); I have UK citizenship. We are also both New Zealand citizens (born and raised.)... Read more
As it was in 2012, they have probably long left the country.
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2 things, afetr market MAF sensors are bad news ! Some cars just do not run on these aftermarket parts & trigger off faults galore.
The wiring looms in the engine bay on Vivaro's are notorious and the only way to check them is to remove and strip them and check every wire.