December 2011
Seals are fine, nothing damp anywhere inside, used regularly, can clear quickly with aircon but I'm fed up with this and previous cars of any age misting up.
RainX doesn't stop it and stinks when applying, its a fag rubbing it in properly.... Read more
intermittant blue smoke , only occurs when driving , if i turn ignition off then on it clears for a while then blue smoke re appears , new egr valve fitted , any ideas ? its a 1.9 cdti 06 model , 170,000 miles
Hi mate did u get it resolved got a similar issue
Hi,
I am having a bit of starting trouble with my C180. Basically everything was going fine then one day it was problematic starting when hot.... Read more
get the engine hot. Leave the injectors connected but pull them out the cylinderhead and place each injector tip on a brown envelope and leave overnight.
If there are fuel staines on the brown envelopes the injectors are leaking and flodding the engine with fuel making hot starting very difficult
It's time to fit some new tyres.
Currently have Bridgestone ER30 205/55/16 91V tyres which came with the car. They are noisy over rough road surfaces and tend to go with a bang over rough patches or indentations otherwise they ride reasonably quiet over other road surfaces, they wear well. On wet roads they feel like they are on tiny marbles on sharper bends as I can feel the car slightly moving off line which doesn't inspire much confidence in wet conditions although they are still controllable.
So we're looking for something that is quieter and more comfortable.
We've tried Michelins Primacy HPs, they lose traction quickly on wet roads and squeal on roundabouts in dry conditions even at nominal speeds, not the most comfortable or quiet of tyres.
Have tried Goodyear Excellence on a Focus mk2, they were a good all round tyre, plenty of grip in wet & dry weather, quiet and comfortable as well.
What tyres have you found offer similar characteristics to the above Goodyear Excellence tyres which you would recommend? Thanks.
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I have tried a few different makes of tyre but the one that suits my Focus above all the rest are the Dunlop SP Sport Fast Response, not the Blu Resonse, these are very hard and uncomfortable tyres, stay well clear, I speak from experience.
I have to prime fuel into the car before it will start, once it started its OK, on the hoses that go into the engine I can see bubbles proir to priming (hand pumb) fuel into the pipes. I took the car to a specialised, he replace the fuel filter, replace the fuel pipes and primer, checked the fuel tank and pipes - but the problem is still there - he seems very baffled by it. He thinks it may be the seals on the fuel pump that have gone? If anyone has some ideas I would be very happy :)
Thanks in advance I am totally stuck.... Read more
Replaced all the fuel pipes has he? Quite expensive, those quick release pipes.. It's just that I've had this very same fault on two Fiesta 1.4tdci's, a 2002 and a 2006 model. On both cars the fault was a cracked plastic fuel pipe, the one that comes round the back of the air filter to the rubber priming bulb, and the crack is caused by the priming bulb vibrating due to not being fastened tightly to the side of the air filter housing. (So the first lesson is to tie up anything which is vibrating in the engine bay!). Now, why don't you see leaking diesel if the pipe is cracked? Well, it seemed that in both cases the crack was such that fuel would flow through pushing the crack closed, but when the engine was stopped, air would seep in and the fuel would run back to the tank! Strange but true - on both cars! You have to pump the fuel back up using the priming bulb. I took the first car (not knowing what the fault was) to my local Ford dealer who spun me a story about bleed-back pipes and bleed valves and charged me a lot of money for the repair, then I picked up the car and drove off leaving a trail of diesel on the road! I was lucky to get it back to them before the tank emptied. When the fault occured on the 2006 car I sought the advice of a local mechanic. He showed me the cracked plastic pipe and said that as Ford use a non-standard, rather narrow, plastic pipe, then standard fuel pipe can be warmed up in a cup of hot water and slid over the Ford pipe. He cut the faulty pipe at the crack and slid both ends into a legth of new standard pipe which cooled as a tight fit over the original. This is the mark of a proper mechanic! Now, if I've had this on two cars, it must (surely?) be a rather common problem. If this isn't the problem on your car, then check all the quick-relese ends - and check that the water drain tap at the bottom of the fuel filter is tight!
Hi chaps
I've driven this vehicle from new, in November 2006. It was previously my company car, under Zenith leasing, from whom I purchased it in November 2010. It currently has 54k on the clock, and is used by my partner.
So, given it was due a service, I booked it in at my local independent (who I rate highly, have used them for years) - it's always been serviced by VW dealers prior to that (since I didn't have to pay for it). The night before it was due in, my partner advised that the engine management light was coming on intermittently - and when I took it in, it was clearly down on power.
So series of ongoing issues discovered by my guy, which can briefly be summarised as: no compression in cylinder 4, two valves toasted, damage to the head, fixed those but it's still got a problem, we think the piston's fractured, took the piston out and it's in two pieces... Got it back yesterday with new piston and a bill for £2350 (about £600 of which is for service/MOT and new tyres). They talked to the local VW dealer when they realised how serious the problem was, who essentially washed his hands of it, but did advise they replaced the fuel-injector as a likely cause of the problem. He didn't suggest that, if they carried on with the repair, I'd have a problem with seeking any goodwill from VW, who, of course, would wash their hands of it corporately.. Unsurprising, because, of course, that's exactly what they're doing.
I have logged a case with VW, but they're clearly not going to play ball because they haven't 'been able to diagnose the problem'. They also refuse to speak to my independent. I think, regardless of any diagnosis they could have undertaken, the outcome would have been a design/construction problem - hardly anything I could have caused.
So...what chance have I got of getting VW to do the reasonable thing? Do I have any 'rights'? I don't think it reasonable that a properly maintained, carefully driven vehicle of this age and mileage could suffer a failure of this nature, or the repair costs associated with it....
TIA!
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Because they can, and people will still continue to buy their cars.......
Which is the nicer car to drive on twisty normal roads i.e. which one handles better?
If you "need 4WD to negotiate your commute from milton Kenes to leicester" then it's pretty obvious:
1. you should not travel...
Hi all,
Hoping somebody can give me some guidance on this.... Read more
I do somewhat begrudgingly run at 80 odd on the Motorway as even with the higher speed the longer run still keeps my consumption in or around 50, plus, as above,
I too feel that an odd "blast" does the engine good....
I am currently looking at buying a 2009 '09' Mazda 6 2.2d Sport with 56,000 miles on the clock.The car was ran as a company car and is in good condition with all the kit on with it being a Sport and due to the fact it's for sale at a dealership where I work, I can get it at a decent price.
Originally I was interested in the A4 1.9 TDi S-lIne, but quickly got put off after reading owner reviews and JD Power Survey's etc. Also like the Accord, but I'm young so the image put me off slightly.... Read more
Apart from rising oil levels (never seriously high) I enjoyed the original Mazda6 on a 57 plate with the 143PS engine. It was a good car. But I wanted oil changes between two services just in case - a company car. I didn't think they were necessary but I wanted the peace of mind the lease company wouldn't pursue me if there was a problem. In the end, they would not accept any liability (unlikely there was a problem) so why should - hence oil changes.
I am told the next generation DPF on the 2.2d Mazda6 regenerates twice as fast and less often. I have no personal experience. All I know is the 57 Mazda6 2.0d I had was reliable* unlike the Mondeo TDCi that let me down a few times....
I am seriously considering purchasing this car but a few niggles concern me. The brakes are a little soft at the beginning of brake pressure and the ride and comfort levels over bumps tends to be a bit choppy, the clutch - read below.
Also on the test car I drove the clutch bite was only 1 cm from the floor. It was a used car with 3.5k on the clock, other non-econetic Fiesta's I've tried didn't have this problem. Is there an issue with the Econetic or did this car have a clutch issue ? Even the sales guy had problems controlling the clutch even though he insisted they were all like that, I disagreed with him and said it was fault.
Is this the norm for this car in your experience and if not can anything be done to resolve these issues ? Thanks. Read more
Having had another test drive using a different 1.6 TDCi Econetic I can confirm the ride is more comfortable with the 175/65 tyres compared to the 195/50 tyres on non-econetic cars.
Also the smaller overall footprint of the 4 tyres (some 80mm less than standard tyres) means there is less road surface to ride over and this translates to less road noise and fewer bumps being transmitted into the cable area. This in turn translates to a real improvement in cable refinement and comfort, and at the legal max speed (70 mph) road noise is well suppressed on all roads surfaces....
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