March 2011
Can anybody advise me how to make the Jaguar emblem easily removable after parking. I live on a street which is peopled by alcohol filled young men (& women) at weekends and I am concerned about providing an opportunity for vandalism, losing the jaguar emblem is one thing but the damage that could be caused to the bonnet is not what I would like to contemplate Read more
I have had this reset 4 times in the last 5 weeks all filters & a full service has been done garage unable to find the cause.
It comes back on app 5 days after the reset.... Read more
I am experiencing difficulty when I drive my present car. Essentially, I seem to be squashing my nether regions being delicate about this. I am sure other men must have the same problem? I do stop regularly etc to get out but its becoming a real nuisance and I am driving to Cornwall tomorrow so I think I will have some difficulty. The only solution I can see ( apart from not driving at all!) is to buy one of those backrests sold by computer shops like Staples, they bring you quite a way forward so the offending part doesnt get squashed. Has anyone out there got any ideas? Read more
It's Focus III TDCi 1.6, 2008 model, so not due for a replacement until 2012. The only part of my sitting environment which I cannot adjust for comfort - other than up-down - is the head restraints. To my (non-expert) way of thinking, the head restraint should at least try to follow the contours of the head, or am I missing something? If there is a fairly even gap between my skull and the restraint, in the event of a rear end collision, the ideal result should surely be that all the surface area of my head (maybe even my neck) hits the restraint evenly, rather than just a hefty whack at the top of my skull - which is what I get regularly on a normal journey!
A previous company car - a Vectra - had the same pivoting system as Saabs, whereby the restraint was not too close, but in the event of a rear ender, the pressure of the upper back against the seatback would have the effect of pushing the restraint forward to provide maximum support and protection from whiplash. It strikes me that this is a relatively low cost solution which is simply ignored by manufacturers to save a few pennies.
My wife's '06 1.3CDTi Corsa has now done 46k miles and has had a noisy clutch release bearing for two or three years.
I would be grateful for any advice on this as I don't want to incur un-necessary expense if it is simply a characteristic of the bearing, but if there is a history of premature failures, then I would want to chage it now to avoid this and any possible consequential damage.... Read more
The car was bought from a small dealership (not a VW one), the car had the Airbag light constantly on when I bought it. The dealership said that the car would be fixed asap and if it turns out that the fix is too expensive a refund will be given and the dealer will auction the car instead.
The car was allegedly fixed by the dealers auto electrician, BUT.. after repair the light wasn't on at all, the airbag light should appear and disappear when the ignition is switched on, now it doesn't.
To me, it looked like the light had been disabled as it's strange that the light was constantly on, now it's been 'fixed' the light is nowhere to be seen. That screams dodgy repair to me.
These years of cars, VW used a weak airbag module which is known to burn out when scanned with VAGCOM meaning I didn't want to scan it.
Now, by this point I had explained my concern to the dealership stating that the airbag light should come on and off when the car is first turned on. So the dealership said he will take another look, and once again if the fix is too expensive he will refund me and the car will go to auction.
Way I saw it I had a few options to take:
*Take the risk and scan the car as it appears the Airbag is already faulty.
*Take it to a professional place such as VW to get the fault diagnosed (if there was a fault) and then complain to the the dealer about a dodgy repair (if there is one).
*Get a full refund and return the car
*Negotiate with the dealer for a partial refund to get the problem fixed elsewhere - if there was an issue
Someone I have known for a little while on a forum suggested I got the refund and he has parts to fix things as he is breaking the same car. Trouble is- he since hasn't logged on for 2 weeks and I need this fixing soon.... Read more
I've heard this once or twice. It's really not helpful.
Hi guys Driving home yesterday from work in stop-start traffic and some nob went into the back of me. As it was a very low speed impact there was no damage to their car, but they dented the black plastic insert on my back bumper a bit. I only had the car for a week and a half and I'm gutted. I was wondering how hard is to remove this insert and replace it with a new one?
Ta Tel Read more
hi all,
so i changed the flat battery on my car this morning and put 5 litres of fuel in( as was low).... Read more
Try pressing the fuel inertia cut of switch that is by the battey, you may have banged it.
Regards Peter
I've got a skoda octavia company car ( new shape-57 plate). The engine was rebuilt 14000 miles ago, ever since it was rebuilt theres no power in it, I've tried takin it back to our company garage that rebuilt it but they keep saying it's just because the parts are new and need to be worn in. The turbo sounds like it's working and kicks in when it should, ive taken it down the motorway and it will do 70+ but takes a long time to build up speed ( no chance of overtaking) I'd like to try and repair this myself if it's not too big of a job, I've read similar problems on the net which were down to cracked or loose turbo pipes or maf sensor. I've tried disconnecting the maf sensor and it makes no difference to the performance, but I don't know which pipes to check to see if there loose or cracked, could anyone advise where the pipes I need to check are or anything else I could try.
Thanks in advance.
Forgot to put it's a 1.9 turbo diesel Read more
If it's been rebuilt after a seizure, it means the cylinder head has been removed. I suspect that your mechanics have not reset the camshaft pulley wheel in the correct position when rebuilding the motor, which will in turn mess up the timing of the fuel injection.
On the 1.9 TDI engine in a 57-plate Skoda, the correct fuel injection pressure and timing relies on correct camshaft timing. A special tool has to be used when setting this to "index" the cam pulley in the right position. If it isn't in the right position, the engine will not run right and will not develop anywhere near the power it should do. It's simple and effective, but not idiot-proof....
Hi,
I've got a mondeo estate which serves me well , but is rather boring to drive.
It was bought with cash, is not worth much but is reliable and I need the space from time to time.
I've got fully comp with maximum no claims - it has said 9 years for a long time - although I've had constant insurance without a claim for 20 years.
My only claim ever was about 22 years ago when i had a total loss on a TWOC.
I was toying with the idea of getting a 'mid life crisis' style toy as a second car.
Maybe an SLK ( I've had one before but got rid because i needed something bigger ), mx5 , mr2 type of thing.
How would I stand getting insurance ?
would I need to start again on no no claims and pay a fortune or might my insurer look on me favourably ?
I'd be looking for something cheap and cheerful,I always buy with cash and wouldn't be worried about having 3rd party cover only.
I'm 48 and live in an ok part of town.
Any thoughts or comments on isurance ( not choice of car ) ?
Thanks
Read more
Many insurers will give you complimentary 5 yr NCD on 2nd car
I have a 2008 Partner Combi with 45000 miles
about 3 months ago while going up a slight hill in 4th I noticed the revs rise by 1000 and no speed increase but it went after 5 seconds and has not done it since until last week.
While I was travelling in traffic doing 50mph in 5th and the revs rose again for 5 seconds then I overtook a car same thing for 5 seconds then nothing since.
I have tried doing 40mph in 5th and flooring the throttle and it just pulls like normal.
The mpg varies from 42mpg to 47.5mpg with no real change in driving style
Does this mean the clutch is on the way out as I am going to Scotland (1200 mile round trip) in May and I want to get it sorted before
thanks
David
Read more
There is very little torque when you pull away because the revs are to low (or at least I hope they are) it's far more likely to slip when the engine is producing maximum torque at 2000 rpm or so.
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