August 2010
Recovery garage (in Dubai and not the Jaguar dealer) is claiming I have a seized engine - I am astonished since car was running perfectly - I had done a run of about 150 km with nothing untoward. Not the slightest indication of overheating and in view of my location and previous problems on that score I always keep an eye on the temp gauge and it was absolutely normal. Also absolutely no 'restricted performance' mode. No loss of oil and all other fluids normal. Car has been meticulously serviced every 8000 km by the main agent since I bought it new. There has been no excess burning of oil or strange unexplained symptoms prior to this event.
I parked and switched off the engine - everything was normal and I was away for about 5 minutes - when I returned and tried to restart it, the engine turned once, did not fire and then there was (I think) a slight clunk or chink and the hint of a mechanical winding-down sound for maybe a second, no more than two (difficult to describe but that is my closest shot). Subsequent efforts to start the car resulted in a very sluggish attempt to turn the engine, hence my initial thoughts that it was the battery which is five years old and in the car since I bought it. After attempts to jump start and purchase of a new battery I then believed the problem was the starter but the garage said no and after keeping the car for five days to 'investigate' has now told me he thinks the crankshaft is seized.... Read more
Hi, I´m having some troubles with my voyager, I would like to mesure the resistence between the 3 terminal but not sure what values should I consider, I have the haynes manual but the only thing it says is to read across terminal and I should have determinated resistence with determinated temp, but does not says with terminal because I have 3, one is ground and the other goes to diferent parts . terminal nº 1 and nº 2 (ground) goes to pcm , and terminal nº 3 goes to body control module.
the car wont rev after 2000rpm, I changed 1 injector, wastegate actuator (was leaking some air but opening at 1,5/2 bar ( more or less)), air flow meter air filter and fuel filter.
when I start the motor in cold it starts fine but at about 1000rpm , after 30 seconds it goes to 800 and starts to crank I have to give it some acelaration than stays fine, but if I disconect the temp sensor the rpm rises to 1000 and work fine with the fan at maximum.
Now after changed the fuel filter alot of air got trapped in the circuit ,and after bledding the circuit the car starts to crank everytime it´s on idle but if I disconnect the temp sensor goes fine, the boost problem still remais.
with the sensor connected starts to boost until 2000rpm and the losses the strenght, with the sensor disconected, does not give much acelaration and nothing happend at 2000 I noticied that the turbo starts to spin after 2000 but without much power.
I dont know what to do no more than to change the temp sensor??
help please.
Thanks Read more
I have spare rimless new tyres and I won't need them for a good while yet, but in looking up how to correctly store them I can't seem to find a definitive answer, some sites say in a cold area on their sides others say upright cause they are not on rims and some even say hang them up.
So I'm wondering if someone can tell me what the real proper way to store tyres at home is.... Read more
Interesting, hadn't thought of that.
Do the air leaks stop if the wheels are sent for stripping and re-powdercoating ? Read more
apparently my golf was fitted with either vw or Girling front brake calipers. how can i tell which is fitted to mine? Read more
The only accurate method to verify what type you have ,is to remove a wheel and check the make stamped into the body of the caliper.hth
Im looking at getting a honda crv mk ll version because i like the shape better than the current mk lll version. After looking at car websites i have come across 2 crvs i like the look of. The thing is they are a 2007 plate and a 2008 plate and are the mark ll version i like. Now i know the mk lll version was released in 2007,but i want some opinions as to whether it would be worth my while even looking to buy the older shape knowing the new shape was released in 2007. the 2007 plate is the 2.0 i-vtec sport model and the 2008 plate is 2.0 vtec. the 2008 plate only has 3250miles on the clock so its virtualy brand new,and i think the reason it hasnt sold is because its the mk ll shape. What opinions does anyone have on this subject of the mk ll versions in the later reg plates? would it be a bad decision to buy?
thanks guys. Read more
I can't comment on the Mark III, but I have owned a Mark II (56 reg) for nearly three years.
It's the Sport diesel version though. I can't praise it enough and all round I think it's the best car I've had (although 3 Subarus Foresters run it close). It is supremely reliable, very comfortable (we've just towed a 17ft caravan for 3800miles round Portugal and Spain with never a back ache or seat ache (we are in our early 70's too). Mostly in 6th gear!...
I have lost the keys to my 2002 Deauville, and I have been informed that a new ignition switch needs to be purchased at £300 or more. Is there an alternative to this at all.
Any thoughts would be very much appreciated.... Read more
I have found the site http://hoc.atfreeforum.com/post36686.html#p36686
...
One day in the jungle a chimpanzee invented some tools to eat his dinner.
Man walks into garage having run out of petrol up the road.
Says to the attendant "Can of BP" please....
I am looking to getting this car running again. The problems it is having are:
1. Hard to start... Read more
Firstly, have you changed the fuel filter, if its clogged it will cause the pump to suck very hard and air will get in. If that's OK you have a leak somewhere, could be on the filter or the hand primer if it has one. If you can park the car on a steep downward slope and get the fuel tank higher than ther engine, it should leak fuel where the air is getting in.
i have an astra 1.4 petrol 2006 plate i recently was driving the car and it was misfirng and when i put my foot down it was sluggish at driving. when i went home parked the car let the car cool down popped the bonnet to find no water at all in in water pump so i filled it up then checked the oil stick and to my horror there was creamy muck on the cap and the stick was dripping like mad and it sure did not look like oil i think its mixing can somebody tell me whats going on here please
Agree sound to me like you headgasket has gone creamy sludge water and oil.
Browse
What year is the car? How many miles? Which engine?
The pre-2000-ish V8s had a bit of a reputation for the secondary tensioners breaking, and it took Jaguar a couple of goes before they finally got them right.