November 2009

Happy Blue!

I had never driven a car with one of these pushbutton electric handbrakes before this afternoon. A friend turned up in a courtesy car (VW Passat CC) diesel with manual gearbox. He had parked it in a car park, nose in facing down to a shrubbery. He needed to reverse out up the hill.

So, thats when the fun started. In a manual car with standard handbrake lever, you get the clutch to biting point and slowly release the handbrake, whilst giving a bit of power on the acclerator. What do you do in a car which requires you to have your left foot on the clutch, right foot on the footbrake (which it needs to be before you can release the brake by pressing the button on the dash) and also need a third leg for the accelerator.

The answer in this case is use the torque of a diesel to help and use fancy foot work, but my friend who is a reasonable driver of many years experience was stumped and it took me more than a few seconds to work out what to do and get the car out of the parking bay. I did a little bit of damage to the shrubbery as well!

Clearly a very dangerous design, especially in a car with a petrol engine without the reserves of torque that were very handy. Whose stupid idea is this? Read more

TeeCee

Those of us who learned to drive 40 odd years ago tend to do that anyway! Saved the starter motor having to turn the weight of a heavy transmission with thick oil and broke the 'seal' that sometimes happened between clutch plate and flywheel

Depends what you used to drive! Those of us who drove BMC cars with those graphite release bearings learned very quickly that the clutch pedal was only ever to be touched when changing gear and then only for as little time as possible. Both starting with the clutch out and sitting in gear at junctions were to be avoided at all cost.

The alternative was chewing through a release bearing and needing a clutch job every 10,000 miles.

elmwoody

Hi - has anyone else had problems with their Citroen cars catching fire?? We had a Citroen C4 Grand Picasso 07 reg vehicle (car was 6months old when we purchased it) - still under manufacturers warranty that caught fire just after myself, my partner and our two children had just got out of the car. We have had two reports done - one from the fire brigade, the other from an insurance assessor both of which state that the fire was caused due to an electrical or engine fault. Apparently, according to Citroen - this is NOTHING to do with them. Has anyone else had an exceptional standard of service from Citroen? Read more

Avant

Unlikely, as we last heard from Pat / Kneedown in 2014.

TB2

Now that the cold weather is starting to take a grip around the country, our attention is drawn to carrying scrapers, windscreen de-frost, etc.

Is there any easy way to prevent the build up of frost and ice on the inside of the windscreen? I was wondering whether placing card or old carpet on the outside of the windscreen would help to keep one side of the windscreen slightly warmer and thus warm enough to ensure that any condensation etc remains as such on the inside rather than forming frost/ice. Would the use of a de-humidifier such as you can buy from camping shops for the use in caravans/boats be of any use?

It's quite frustrating to spend an extra 5 minutes or so scraping the inside of the windscreen each time I want to use my car during a particularly cold spell. Read more

Old Navy

My car has manual aircon which I never turn off, the air is cooled and dried before it goes through the heater matrix so the temperature output will always be controlled by the temperature knob, and the air entering the car will be dry.

SteelSpark

I have recently bought a Mondeo (09 reg), which I understand needs to be serviced every 12,500 miles or 12 months (whichever comes sooner).

I understand that having a complete service history is important for resale value, but I don't really understand the ins and outs.

If I fail to have any of the services, am I right in thinking that I no longer have a complete service history? What is the impact of being late for a service (saying doing it after a 14,000 mile or 14 month interval)?

I would imagine that going over the interval a little bit is not really going to have a major impact when reselling, but I would appreciate any advice you might have.

Thanks. Read more

Statistical outlier

SS, check the warranty paperwork. Honda allow a 1000 mile overrun IIRC.

s999srk

Hiya, hoping someone can help with fault on the clio.

I'm suffering from the airbag and SERV light that alot of other people are.

Took the car into the local garage and its says Fault code 180, Front side sensor circuit passenger short circuit.

I had a look under the seat at the wires and gave the connections a clean up before i took it in but light stayed on.

The mechanic said he traced the wires under the seats and disconnected at all connections and they came up with differant fault codes so its prob not those.

If it helps i just cured the leaking sunroof problem a few days before. Could it have anything to do with that maybe. Next step is an auto electrician and however many hours labour they want to charge for.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers
Steven

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s999srk

Hiya, thanks for your reply, i have checked the wires, the big black one with a red clip wont come apart but i have pushed connection together to make sure it is in place but still doesnt help

BobC

The coolant temperature used to reach the middle of the normal range in about 4 miles and stay there, except when coasting downhill for a significant period. Recently, I have found it can only reach and maintain the normal temperature if speeds of 55-60mph are maintained and drops away rapidly as I slow down. I assumed that it would be the main thermostat, but changing it made no difference. I subsequently checked the operation of the removed thermostat and found started to open at approximately 88 degrees C and was about fully open at 100 degrees C - so that was not the problem. I have checked the pipe from the second thermostat (to the oil cooler) and this does not warm significantly. However, the top hose (thermostat housing to radiator inlet) and top of radiator are warm even though the engine does not appear to have reached normal temperature.

Obviously, there is flow from the thermostat housing to the radiator. The thermostat housing has a connection on the radiator side of the thermostat with two pipes - one from the end of the cylinder head and the other goes back to the coolant reservoir. I'm wondering whether the connection from the cylinder head could be acting as a bypass around the thermostat, but don't know how the plastic tee-piece above the thermostat housing works - presumably, it is intended as a one-way air bleed from the thermostat housing to the reservoir.

I know others have had over-cooling problems, but in this case neither thermostat is at fault - I would be grateful for any suggestions. Read more

argosgold

Further to this - I (finally!) had my car checked by a mechanic I know and trust - my old man's used him for at least 10 years and I value his opinion (unlike that of FRAUDS).

He drove it a bit. Checked the engine and said that the engine was fine - heating as it should, running as it should.

There is, however, a problem with the turbo - it's ALWAYS on. I'm yet to speak to him to get the exact problem, but he reckons it'll need a new turbo.

Anyone with a bit more technical knowledge have any ideas re this?

thisnthis

Hi. I am the owner of a VW Bora 1.9 tdi 130 SE, 6 speed on a 52 reg.

Recently, whilst driving, the car loses power/limp mode. Once I turn the ignition off and re-start the car. It is OK. However, it does it again.

I had someone look at the car. There were error codes showing the turbo is overboosting resulting it to go into limp mode. I had the 3 sensors at the back of the engine changed. (The ones which has the turbo pipes going in and out of it). However, the problem is re-curring.

More recently, whilst driving once I get to about 2 -3 revs the car starts shuddering and the ABS light comes on. The RAC had a look at the car and told me the car is running beautifully and I might have gone over some oil on the road. Shortly after, this problem and the power loss kept recurring.

Out of frustration I went to the VW dealers, who told me for a fixed fee of £100 they will diagnose it for me. They charged me £100 and told me there were lots of faults showing and having cleared them there were 2 faults still showing, fuel pump relay and something to do with the radiator sensor. They told me they wanted me to have these repaired first before they diagnose it any further, at a huges cost. (Found it cheeky of them to do this).

I changed the fuel pump relay. However, the problem is still recurring. Matters are getting ahead now as I can't find anyone who can simply tell me what the problem is and what I need to do to fix it. I have been told it may probably be the turbo as in it is not giving the correct amount of turbo becasue it may need to be claned up from inside, leaving the turbo sensor to think it is over boosting resulting it to go into limp mode and also with the turbo not giving the correct amount of turbo, the right amount of power is not getting to the wheels, hence the ABS kicking in.

One thing I haven't changed is the airflow sensor. I want to resolve this problem as it is causing me daily inconvenience ie shopping, school runs etc.

Can anyone tell me what the problem is. Your help will be very much appreciated.

Kind regards.

{Header changed - no need to SHOUT!} Read more

redbob

Hi i have a 01 bora 115 pd 6 speed

This limp mode only started occasinally about 300 miles this was after i did a headgasket change, turbo recondition,new rad with sensor ,new thermostat,new water pump, timing belt change,and a service....

chrisbakeradi

Hi all I'm new to the forum although i have been visiting as a guest for a while now. I have found it very useful, However I have a problem with my car now that i need some help with!
My Car: Clio 1.2 16v Dynamique 2003
Engine:D4f712
Current Milage>120,000m

When i try to pull away, as i bring up the clutch it reaches the biting point and suddenly the power dissapears then comes back with a vengance, making it very difficult to pull away smoothly. Once driving along it feels like its losing power for very short periods of time almost like you were lifting off the gas and then back on again, especially when you accelerate at anyting more than a very gentle pace. It does this in every gear.

Its not the clutch as that was replaced Fairly recently and it is a definate loss in power not clutch slipping.

It has had a few electrical problems recently and I have removed the ECU black box cover and repaired the wiring. it has also had in the last couple of weeks a new coil pack and plugs (from Renault) a new MAP sensor. the previous problem of rough idling and stalling i think was a combo of all this things but especially the throttle body which i have cleaned.

The Ecu has not stored any codes but i was told when looking at the live data that the cat didnt seem to be working. Could this be the cause of my problems? have I caused the problem when removing inlet manifold to clean throttle? I'm no expert, just very annoyed at my car which always seems to have something going wrong!!!
Thanks for taking the time to read this. any thoughts appreciated.

Chris
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chrisbakeradi

Hi to be honest with you i'm really no expert. Your engine is different to mine but i would have a close look all the way along the loom from the ecu connectors to the various different other sensors and connections. check all connections and give them a good clean to make sure they are making a good contact(no oil or dirt etc...) I used WD40 for this.
Check the wiring has no obvious breaks in it. look for where it may rub or get caught.
The trouble with these sort of electrical problems is that they all display similar symptoms

Sorry i cant be much help

Regards

Chris

honeybear

I had some trouble with this about six months ago as the car was using/loosing coolant, it went to dealers no problem found, all topped up and was fine. Since then the car has been fine on all the trips even long runs down the motorway. Now the other day we went out and drove about 7 miles stopped and I noticed the cooling fan had come on, had a look and the expansion tank is empty. I took off the cap and some water came back into the tank but only about 1/4 litre so I put a litre of water in and carried on doing another 30 or so miles till we get home, checked again with no serious loss and put about a litre in to bring up to the max mark. The car has only done 11500 miles and I have had a quick look around and can see no obvious pipes loose or signs of a leak so it is a bit of a mystery, is there a simple solution as I dread the 60 mile round trip/wait/faff to the dealers, I will monitor it again but it may have to go back. Read more

honeybear

In to dealers today and got the phone call this afternoon. Cause a loose pipe into the heater matrix, fixed and now waiting for the carpets to dry out!. This all works out as I couldn't detect any water outside the car as it was all going inside and the problem has only just got alot worse as the weather has got colder and the heater is being used alot more so more water through the matrix equals more water out of the system into the car. Sorted hopefully go to collect tomorrow.

perro

My 30,000 mile 05 1.8 petrol Almera has always been serviced by a Nissan dealer using 0w-30 Elf or Total oil (French)
I have noticed on some cold starts, especially if not used for a day - that the timing chain is making its presence heard for a few seconds and although the car is no-way due for a service I think I'll change the oil anyway - just to be on the 'safe side'
So. the question is - what is the best oil to use for max protection on cold starts?
Using the opieoil site + my own experience I'm contemplating using Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel @ £40 a throw.
Although this oil was designed for TD's its also recommended for petrol engines.
I reckon this oil is one of the highest performing engine oils on the market.
The spec is as follows:

?VW 502 00, VW 505 00, VW 505 01
?Mercedes MB 229.51
?BMW Longlife-04 / BMW LL-04
?Ford WSS-M2C917-A (WSS M2C917A)
?ACEA A3/B3, ACEA A3/B4, ACEA C3
?API SM/CF

Can any see a reason *not* to use this oil in my petrol engine? Read more

perro

>>> One of the guys from opieoils used to post on here as 'oilman'. <<<

I received a prompt reply from opieoils and they suggested Motul X-lite or Gulf Competition engine oil because the Ester based oils leave a thin film of oil all over the engine internals - even when its not running, which reminds me of my Molyslip days, so I'll be taking that route for max protection on cold start up.