June 2009

Hector Brocklebank

Obviously the amount of fuel left in the tank when the light/buzzer comes on will vary from car to car, as will the mileage you can squeeze from it. As a rough guide though, how much do you reckon is left when the warning light comes on and how far have you been tempted to push it? Up until now, I have assumed there to be roughly a gallon left in reserve so I try not to travel more than 30-40 miles on a warning light. According to some rudimentary calculations done by yours truly, I suspect there to be a bit more in reserve than that.

Also, if there are any tales relating to fuel and running out of it, please post! Read more

oilrag

PU, I much prefer those roads in North Yorkshire compared with the overcrowded Dales. Around 67 we used to take bikes over there doing the ton on the swoopy bits near Fylingdales. Once, at around 5am, hit a rabbit with the footpeg - parked up and ran down the road to it - at which point it got up and hopped off.

Another time one went into the front spokes - nasty that...... we loved early runs as we had the roads to ourselves but the abundant wildlife of the times on the dawn roads and the speed we were doing, started to freak us out after a while.

jeff_porter

Yep, thats right.

The dealer has told me that my VSA module is at fault and needs to be replaced.
The orange VSA warning light is on the dashboard.

The car is 3.5 years old (44k and full dealer history), and to have a £1600 quid quote is shocking (200 is labour).

I've spoken to Honda UK who have help reduce the bill down to £1000.
Still shocking though.

The part number is

57110-SEF-E561-M1
Honda: (Type: EFVVV)
SEFE5
02.2102.01174

I'm told that these thing rarly fail, but that is little consolation to me.

What does anyone else thing? other than I should of brought an extended warrenty.

:-(

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JmHeal

Just wanted to say a big thanks for this post.

I had a flat battery in my Honda FR-V due to not driving for a few months with the Covid lockdown and got a jump start. Got the car running again but had yellow exclamation mark (!) in triangle yellow VSA and solid yellow check engine light. The car was also running very sluggishly and unable to get over 30mph....

jacks

I drove my wife's MINI in hot weather this morning for the first time for quite a while.
The A/C didn't seem to be as cold as it should be. It's working but seems to have gradually got less cold. The car is 6 years old and it's never had a recharge.
I read somewhere that A/C systems "lose 10% of the refrigerant each year" - surely that's only if there is a leak?

I see Kwik-Fit are doing a recharge (inc lubricant) for £45 inc VAT which seems to be the cheapest around my area.

Anyone used them? are they likely to "find" something expensive that needs doing?

I notice the local Honda dealer are advertising the same service for £49.95 plus VAT but I'm not sure if thats only as an adder to a booked service.

Kwik-fit are saying drive in - no appointment, so that's more convenient provided they're ok - can anyone confirm/

thanks

Jacks
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DP

Had Kwik Fit recharge the aircon on our old Grand Scenic last summer. My £45 turned useless air-con into icy cold air-con, which was still icy cold when we sold the car earlier this year. Stapled to the invoice was a comprehensive report listing system pressures, weights recovered, weights added, vent temps etc on a before and after basis.

Would use them again. No complaints at all.

Richard_Gomm

firstly thanks to everyone whos helped with this problem on the other posts (back in october.) Its still not fixed but I think I'm much closer now. As theres been so many false leads I thought it would be easier to post new (plus didn't want to bump an october 2008 post back up )

The problem is basically white smoke on startup on a passat B5.5, I know its common and I read through the other posts and will try to build the results into this one.

The car is a Passat 1.9 TDI 130bhp AWX Engine 2002 reg.

The white smoke only comes out on a cold start, by that I mean engine left over 8 hours. The outside temperature doesn't seem to make much different (maybe slightly less smoke on a hotter day) Its a dark white, maybe white/blue smoke and smells very sickly and strongly of diesel, the smoke lasts about 10 - 20 seconds, a little gentle reving gets rid of it quickly. The car always fires on the first crank whether engine is hot or cold, however it will run rough for a few minutes before settling out.

Outside temp at this time of the year, ranges from 10 - 20 degree C.

So far the car has had the following work:

glowplugs replaced and wiring checked - all show btwn 11.6V and 12.3V
new wastegate valve
new turbo (old one was on its way out)
one new injector and complete injector harness replaced (due to a missfire)
compression test - good
new MAF
service of all filters & fluids
Coolant sensor replaced and checked to be showing the correct temp.

Inital thoughts from myself and the mechanic is that the smoke smells of unburnt diesel and various ideas were thrown around which resulted in the compression test, which was fine, and then the replacement of the turbo.

Since none of that fixed the problem we started looking at the glowplugs. All were replaced and the wiring checks out. I went out when the engine had been left for 15 hours, outside temp was around 16 C and plugged VAGCOM into the car. I turned the ignition on but didn't crank the enigne. Glowplug light came on and immediately went out (lit for less than a second) VAGCOM showed the glowplug status as 01010000 - which according to the label is Pre Glow not required. I then cranked the engine and watched the smoke come flooding out. THe amount of smoke is enough to see clearly in the rear mirror and be blown across to the fron tof the car before dispersing. Gently reved the car to around 3000 revs and the smoke increased before going after around 20 secs.

The latest test that I ran last night was that I disconnected the Coolant Temp sensor to force the glowplugs on for the 20 seconds. I had to remove the sensor to get to the connect so I lost a lot of Coolant (it was down at Min after) I then left the car overnight.

This morning I've gone out and put the sensor back in the hole but didn't connect the wiring.

Turned the car to ignition and the glow plug came on for a good 20 secs, I then cranked the car and for the first time there was NO smoke!! It still ran rough for a few minutes but no smoke. What I did forget though was to refill the coolant tank before starting the car so the test might be invalid.

Basically my thoughts / questions at the moment:

1. The coolant in the top of the engine was lost when I pulled the sensor out last night. Is it possilbe that the coolant is seaping through somewhere overnight and only getting burnt on the enigne start? The car isn't using any large amount of coolant, I haven't had to top it up for over a year.

2. What sort of temp range does the ECU switch the glowplugs on? I've tried changing it to a longer glow period but it doesn't make any difference. THe light comes on and goes out straight away.

3. Can I know rule out stem valves as it didn't smoke this morning?

4. Would retarded timing be affected by the glowplugs being on longer? Would retarded timing give white wmoke?

I've filled the coolant back up so I'll try again tomorrow, this time starting it will had sat all night with a full coolant tank.

thanks again everyone

Richard

{corrected typo in header}
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BenG

Got a similar issue with my 1.9 PD TDI (ARL engine).

Often (not always) puff out what looks like whitish smoke for a few seconds after a cold start. Could be bluish oil smoke I guess though I can't really tell from the driver's seat. Sometimes runs a bit rough for a second or two, then smooths out and the smoke vanishes....

Gesi

My 2008 Toyota Avensis has developed a Cylinder Head gasket problem - unfortunately it is out of warranty as it has done 67,000miles and the warranty runs out at 60,000miles.

Estimated cost of repair £3,000 including a new cylinder head.

Dealer has managed to get some concession on parts from Toyota and has knocked 10% off their normal labour rate but it still comes in at over £2,000.

Any suggestions?

Gesi Read more

Avant

I'll close this thread as Sarah B has started a new one in Motoring.

gerry67

When driving the car, when i go to pull off a clunking noise can be heard from the differential; also when driving normally when i ease off the gers and slow down i can still hear a cunking noise.

The garage told me that there is nothing wrong with the differential and that the tyres may be faulty, can anyone tell if there have been any similar problems you have heard of? Read more

madf

Subar proescribe oil changes all diffs at 35,000 miles.. No wonder they last well.

markyparky

Hi folks , my partners 1.4 TDCi is leaking air into the fuel system , especially when parked nose up on a slope. re priming the system with the manual primer solves the peoblem, but can anyone help by suggesting where/how the air could be leaking into the system , and how I can fix it.

Thanks Mark Read more

CatralDave

Hi

Had same problem with my son's 2003 1.4 tdci....

gasoil

I am on the verge off doing a deal on a A8 3.0Tdi, car is perfect drives amazing but I am a bit scared off the potential bills. Anybody ever run one or got any advice? Reallife MPG would b good aswell? The car is 2005 full dealer history, Thanx in advance. Read more

Alby Back

Of course you should buy it. It'll be great. We will all of course, (mostly anyway ) hate you, but I'm sure you will learn to live with that.....

Enjoy !

wellman

Recently the heater/cooling fan has stopped working. When the rotary selector switch moves through fan speeds position 1 2 &3 nothing happens, however when position 4 is selected the fan operates, also when speed position 1 is selected a relay can be heard operating. Also the cruise control does not appear to be working together with eratic readings from the engine temperature gauge.
The fault seamed to appear after water entered the passenger area because of a blocked cabin filter vent.
I have checked all the fuses to no avail, does anyone have any ideas
Many thanks Wellman

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cyberpang_1

I also had this problem. I change the resistor and it blow again. I change the heater blower and pruchased a new resistor and it blow again. was told that maybe there might be an electricial fault?

houndog

hi all have a prob with my corsa easytronic gear box the clutch fuild had turned a darl colour and have wot looks like melted rubber bits in it suspect the seals in the acuator are u/s does that sound rite ?? bangs into first gear gets into second gear then crunches and drops into neutral no better when using the tronic side of the gear boxes feels like the clutch anit clearin enough is there a cheap answer to this prob.
thanks for any advise you can give Read more

celio

Hi mate have you ever get that problem sorted. I've just bought a corsa that has the same fault. Appreciate for any help. Thanks.