June 2009
KA Duratec (the new type) 1.3 year 2003, fan has been running a lot lately, the temp light came on the dash... looked under the bonnet and I saw the header tank it has starting to split. let it cool down and had a look. all the pipes are getting hot and the heater is red hot. but it is pressurising too much. used the block test fluid, it stayed blue? did not turn yellow.
as I said all pipes hot? not looking good is it? never taken the head of,this model is there a locking tool needed?
any other diagnostics I should do? what do you think is it, is this model prone to head gaskets or similar.
Thank you people
Dave
{correct year edited into header} Read more
My son has recently purchased a Rover 25 1600 from a dealer who was worse than useless. Whilst viewing the car we found that the front passenger door wouldnt unlock with the remote, and the dealer promised to fix it before delivery. On delivery we found it wasnt fixed, and after more empty promises and eventually a total loss of confidence in the dealer doing anything but lying to us, it now seems we're left with no option but to sort it ourselves.
The central locking locks all doors and the boot, but on unlocking you have to pull the button up to unlock the front passenger door. I took the inner trim panel off the other day but cant see anything obviously wrong, though I havent actually studied the mechanism closely yet. When you operate the remote to unlock theres a slight noise from the mechanism but nothing happens, and I'm assuming that because it locks it must be mechanical rather than electrical. Anyone any ideas how to proceed from hereon in? Diagrams would be appreciated if anyone knows whats going wrong. :0)
Cheers. Read more
Cheers, will take a look later on, Alun. And thanks again for all other replies.
Bearing in mind that a diesel engine is less economical in cold weather, does it mean that the hotter the weather gets the more economical the engine is ?
Or after 40C of really hot weather the economy dies off ?
Just a general question as its so so hot today. Read more
Peanut, the tuning boosted torque and power and economy benefits as a result in like for like driving. The standard 1.6 TDCi 90ps and 109ps both have spare untapped power/torque & economy, there is little difference in their overall economy in standard form.
Last year it was noticable how easy it was for manufacturers to suddenly come out with an economy version as soon as the market was ready (when oil went high last year). In many cases they simply released some of the spare uptapped power/torque & economy as far as the engine was concerned.
Manufacturers decide to sell their cars (engines) for a variety of commercial reasons. The Focus currently has a 1.6 diesel engine with 2 different outputs, 1.8 & 2.0 diesel each with 1 specific output.
In the future (and including now) a lot of manufacturers will be offering fewer engine capacity options (cost reductions, increased fuel economy, price positioning etc.) but will offer a specific engine capacity with various output options. As such manufacturers will be forced to free-up some of the potential spare power/torque capacity they currently have available in some of their diesel turbo engines, the same applies to petrol turbo engines.
The Focus III (due next year) will have a 1.6 TDCi option offering upto 128bhp, plus 2.0-litre with 168bhp or 197bhp, with improved fuel economy and reduced emissions. It'll be interesting to see how improved the fuel economy is compared with the current Focus II.
I finally replaced the old Almera with something a bit more modern (albeit more basic), but I'm not sure which grade oil to use in it - the owner's manual states 10w30, the Castrol website says 5w30, which seems very thin to me. (I'd want to use fully synth at this viscosity).
Would I be OK putting 10w40 semi-synthetic into this engine? It's the 16v F14D3 engine, closely related to the Vauxhall Ecotec engine which generally takes 10w40 oil.
I know, it's my fault for buying a non-mainstream brand, but any advice would be much appreciated.
Greg. Read more
Might be worth your while phoning a Chevrolet dealer
and ask what they generally use.
Just phoned the local main dealer, and they use Fully Synth 5w40! So it doesn't seem to matter a huge amount, but I'll make sure it's fully synth.
Thanks.
The Electronic Stability Program light remains on while driving - is there an easy way to reset this myself please?
Many thanks
Anon1 Read more
Thank you for your opinions and clarifying the ECN (I feared that it couldn't be that simple!) - the car is booked in for its service so will no doubt be able to clear this up then.
Anon1
i bought this renault laguna 1.8 dynamique.
and i love it, it's beautiful to drive and look at but now it has developed this bad idle and engine stalling problem.
has anybody else experienced this and how do you fix it, is it injectors, coils or something worse :(
any suggestions other than selling it would be appreciated.
Dave the diver Read more
I get a similar prob with my 1.8 petrol manual. When I set off after about 50yds the engine dies then immediately picks up again! This happens with a full tank so can't see it being a fuel pick up problem.
I've cleaned the air sensor valve with spray stuff as it was difficult to get off, and I was advised that it can be easily damaged and expensive to replace.
My mpg has also gone down from 36.5 just after service to 29.7mpg so I'm going to change the airfilter, it isn't big enough in my opinion.
Can anyone assist me with the rules/considerations that councils need to bear in mind when granting (or more specifically removing) double yellow lines? I'm looking into the possibility of asking them to remove lines from somewhere.
Thanks
Read more
I doubt I'm the only one who would appreciate some additional clarity on why double yellows don't make it illegal to park on them. Or is that not what you've said?
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Thanks Stuartli and bell boy - that is exactly the kind of thing I was after.
BB - I know what your wife means about trying to please everyone.
Thanks again.
Pete
Advice needed.
The car is barely 6 months old, but in the past 2 months the ABS warning light has come on 3 times, most recently today. In all 3 instances, it has been a case of the light not going out after the car has been started. To solve it, I have to pull over, turn the engine off and back on again, drive a few metres and out it goes.
Before I take it back to the dealer, any suggestions as to what might be causing this annoying fault. A faulty sensor, perhaps? Whatever way, it's not what I expected from Hyundai!
Cheers,
AA Read more
if the ABS warning light is coming on then there is a problem with the ABS system - you need to go to a garage and get the fault codes read.
>A faulty sensor, perhaps?
perhaps.
James
I'm a long time lurker, but this is my first post...
My father is interested in purchasing a Hyundai i20, which recently received a 5* EuroNCAP rating, on the basis that it has stability control (ESP) as standard. The EuroNCAP webpage shows the i20 as having ESP as standard across the range in the UK, and most early reviews of the car stated that ESP would be standard from February.
Yet, Hyundai's own webpage shows ESP as a cost option across the i20 range, and even states that "ESP is Special Order Only. Please be aware that Hyundai Motor UK Ltd does not hold stock of these derivatives, therefore factory lead times apply. Please contact your local dealer for further information."
What's going on Hyundai?
My father is seriously considering spending the extra to get a 1.4 Honda Jazz, with 5* EuroNCAP and standard stability control...
Do any backroomers know what's happening ESP wise? Read more
One of my wife's relations has bought one under scrappage (his perfectly good 1.8 Mondeo having failed on emissions). I haven't been in it but it is extremely quiet from the outside. Most refined-sounding cheap small car I have noticed.
Browse
Ill give it a go....nice one guys, I hope.... I see euro do a cheap and a better one.....
www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Ford_Ka_1.3_2004/p/Car-...s
mmmm
Dave