November 2009
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My 2003 car had the brake pads and discs changed at the dealers at 44,000 miles - and now after a service at another gargae (non-dealer) I'm told that I need a new set of discs and pads again - this at 75,000 miles (cost around 280 pounds - again!). I used to own a Carina and never had a problem with discs. I think I saw on a previous post that Bosch pads were too hard, so does anyone have any suggestions on a make that won't wear out every 35000 miles?
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Do you wash your wheels with a hose? And then leave the car?
If so the disks will rust more quickly than normal.
Do you brake gently? and never brake hard? If so, your disks may ppit with rust.
Lots of variables.
Are you near the sea? If so salt corrosion...
Do you drive on muddy roads? If so, you will get disk erosion from grit..
I wonder if the damaged bridges will be replaced as quickly as the California earthquake ones were? Read more
Transit vans must float
Could that have parallels with the current "petrol stations" thread...?
Hi,
Good morning to you all.
Im asking this question on behalf of a work colleague:
He is looking to Purchase either a golf gtd tdi 150 (2004), seat leon tdi Cupra 150 (2004) or the Seat Ibiza Cupra TDi (2004).
His personal preferance is the Ibiza due to its looks etc. Also it has a 160bhp engine compared to 150bhp for the other two. I assuming it is a PD type engine?
Asking price is £5895 for the Ibiza, 82000 miles, 04 reg, red colour, 3 door, recent cambelt etc. Only thing is it has got aftermarket audi replica alloy. Im not a fan of after market mods. Should this be a bad sign if it has got replica wheels? Car is on the pitch of a local well respected car seller.
What is your opinion on this purchase? How reliable are these engine? I have read that the PD130 engine is very reliable. Is this also?
Any things to be wary of?
car will get driven about 550 miles weekly.
Any opinions welcome
{Shouting in header amended}
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It was a £32,000 car new. Ask him if he can afford to service and run a £32k car
Well, we've just had the CRV serviced today and was told that the n/side front tyre is showing wear on the outside edge.
(apparently according to Mr pda, I have to start going round roundabouts the other way to even the other side front tyre up).
It currently has Bridgestone Duellers 205/70 R15 on it all round.
We have been quoted £293.02 fitted for a set of 4 from our local Central Tyre depot, which I was quite happy with.
The problem is that the rear tyres still have 8mm of tread and the fronts have 5mm.
That's a lot of tyre to throw away but we're sure we've read somewhere that on CRV's all four tyres should be replaced together.
So do we bite the bullet and replace all four, move the fronts to the back, or just replace the 2 front tyres?
The worn tyre is still legal.
I have searched the backroom and googled CRV tyres but can't seem to find where we (thought) we read about this.
Pat Read more
Switched my CRV from Bridgestone to Avon - much better grip, less noise, and looks better too!
Does anyone know if it's possible to turn off the front passenger airbag on a 2006 Ford Focus?
I would refer the owners manual but I didn't get one with the car when I bought it last month.
Thanks! Read more
Is this to facilitate a youngster in the front seat. In days of old that was the last place you put them and I think that still holds true in my book. Regards Peter
Hi,
I have a 2.0 TDCI Focus and noticed a leak near the manifold. Turns out that it is probably a leak off pipe that is leaking (a small amount of) diesel. My initial thought was to simply change the leaking pipe (leak off pipe is approx £25). However when I went to get the leak off pipe this morning was told by parts advisor and technician at Ford dealership that I would need to replace the leak off pipe, inlet manifold gasket and all four injector pipes. Is this correct? I thought the leak off pipe that is leaking could just be replaced but apparently not so. Any advice appreciated.
Thanks. Read more
Hi, I have a 05 2.0 focus and have a similar problem. I've replaced the let off pipes however, iv still a diesel leak! Has anyone got any answers from previous problems?
Hi,
Just purchased my first golf. It is a 55 plate 2.0 TDI 140 4motion. 53k and FSH.
When the engine is accelerating and de-accelerating i hear a small like siren noise coming from the car. This happens most and at it's loudest when the car hits smaller revs.
The car runs fine but this noise is starting to irritate me. Do i have a major problem here?? Have any of you experienced this or know what's causing this?
Thanks in advance
Lee Read more
Anyone else enlighten me on this further and give me an answer on what this could be for sure.
Not had time to get to garage due to work commitments....
Thanks
HI any one knows or have an idea why im burning oil,litre per month,no leaks,no smoke,regular oil changes,correct oil? Read more
hi there, i have a vectra b x16xel that i just put new head gasket, 16 new valves and new stem seals due to slipped cam belt, i started it and it runs fine for 10-15 mins but as it warms up starts to smoke slightly, then if i leave it ticking over it starts to missfire, at this point if i drive it down the roads it puts out a road full of smoke and smells like oil burning kinda smoke that lingers for ages, this slowly clears after 5-10 mins of hard driving or if i rev it hard and stay still then the same shed loads of smoke and after 5-10 mins revving clears up and missffire goes until ticking over 10 mins or so and comes back. i read somewhere that when installing stem seals you cant push them on too far or they open up or not enough n they get hit, well i hammered each one on quite hard, how am i supposed to know how hard or far to put them on and do you think this could be my problem, also how can i prove this, what if i run it till it misfires n remove plugs or something could i tell??
what is wet / dry compression testing, dry i assume is normal compression test what is wet?? and would this prove it was stem seals or rings?? or other?...
I've just bought a new satnav for SWMBO and it's set me thinking about the difference between actual speed and distance and that indicated by the car's instruments.
From comparing the speed on the clock against my satnav I know that my speedo is about 5mph on the optimistic side at an indicated 70. This is an error of ~7%. As the speedo drive also drives the milometer am I right in thinking that the error is also reflected in the milometer? If this is the case I can knock something like 14k off the car's mileage:)
I'd be interested in other members' opinions and experience; I've got to drive over to Wales this afternoon so I'll compare the mileage from the satnav against the trip meter.
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Ok now consider that you can only be at a single point of any one of the cones at any particular timing cycle, and that gps works on distance from each satelite, and then tell me what you have.
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This programme more or less automates the process Rattle is suggesting:-
www.windowsstartup.com/