August 2008
The A/C on my 98 Mondeo has now stopped supplying cool air.
Some general information on fault diagnostics on any car needed.
I had the system recharged a year ago ( after three years of ownership ).
It was done at an independant on an automatic machine.
I was told that it would not recharge unless a solid vacuum was retained for about 30 mins during the process.
Since this recharge the effectiveness has slowly reduced.
I am guessing I have a leak rather than a compressor or other fault.
I did not have any dye added to the gas as I had no indication of other than a very very slow loss of cool ( gas loss?)
If it is gas loss I suspect I need dye added ( plus some gas) to show up the leak and then proceed from there.
Is there any other things to check before I hand it over to.....?
Any recommendation re an A/C expert in the Esher / Kingston /Surrey area ?
I am reluctant to hand a blank cheque to a London main dealer.
My servicing garage is 60 miles away and I might need to make more than visit hence I need a local expert.
(From web info it seems that Mondeos are prone to the base of the condenser rotting.)
Read more
Well I've never been onto a forum like this before so hoping someone can help me.
2 years ago I bought a citroen C3 1.4 sx 03 reg. Its got the panoramic sunroof that they boast about on the annoying adverts and a cd player, electric everything blah blah. All sounded good at the time. I'd previously had a citroen ZX 1.6i J reg which had been FAB! I'd gotten to the point where I thought it might need replacing so I opted for another citroen. I've regretted it ever since.
I've had nothing but problem after problem. Unidentifiable electrical problems meaning the car has gone into limp home mode about 6 times, all of which have lead to them not knowing what has caused it because the code it comes up with is not recognised. Power steering going all of a sudden, then coming back with no logical reason. Then one by one things going wrong - I've had to call RAC out 4 times in just over a year. Last week I spent £350 on my car giving it new wheels and new brakes etc etc. Only for it to break down 2 days later costing me another £90.
I'm just about at the end of my tether. I'm thinking about trying to sell it (its got everything new on it now - it can't have anything else wrong with it - but I've had enough!) and replacing it with a ford focus.
I'm just wondering if anyone has any idea how much an 03 reg citroen C3 1.4 sx (top of the range) would go for now? I paid £5,500 for it 2 years ago. If I can't get much cash for it then I'm not going to be able to change it .....which is highly annoying because I LOVE cars but this one has totally changed my mind.........
Anyone that can give me any idea would be doing me a HUGE favour. Also is replacing it with a ford focus a good idea? I've heard good things about them - both reliability, and enjoyment to drive......
Lucy
Croeso/Welcome - deleted your e-mail address for your protection mainly.
Read more
I would classify the Focus as by far the best car our family has owned.>>
Here, here! We've done 50,000miles in ours now. It's a 1.6 petrol, and I'd echo all of your comments including the mpg figures.
When jump starting a car from a booster battery why do they say you should connect the -VE of booster battery to car engine block/bolt (away from battery) & NOT to the -VE of the car battery ??
Yesterday my battery was flat, tried connecting -VE of booster to engine block, would not start, probably not good enough connection.
Connected -VE of booster to -VE of car battery, started ok.
I've never had a problem connecting the -VE and +VE of booster & car batteries to each other.
{added model of car, picked up from a previous posting so people will know the car you're asking about} Read more
I've searched for old threads & there seem to be many different views on the way to jump start a car & the reasons why !!
Jump starting: conflicting advice
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=38895
Jump starting
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=24318
flat battery and jump starting
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=12728
Jump starting
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=4623
I wouldn't mind if I could find a decent connection point for the -VE on my engine block.
Hi
Maybe this question has been answered before, not seen it though..
I have a car with air conditioning, it's warm so I select the aircon, cold air
floods the car and I presume my engine is developing an extra 10hp or so
to power the aircon pump or compressor. So far very clear.
The car cools down and I find it a little too cool so the only option I can take
is to adjust the temperature dial for more heat. This action is manual but I'm sure
cars with climate control will be using servos to add warm water to the heater matrix
just as I adjust my dial. Now my question is this - is the aircon pump still using
10hp and some of the cold air is wasted or does the aircon pump adjust itself
to need less HP because the cold air requirement is reduced and if so how.
I control my car's engine with the throttle to produce the required power, is there
something in the aircon system to reduce the aircon pump's energy usage ?
Or maybe the compressor is switched on and off from the engine drive and inside
the car you don't notice the loading/unloading on the engine
My gut feeling is that most cars have a basic compressor and that selecting cold
air whether you use some or all of it means you pay full price of energy usage
in fuel economy.
If so it's not very green and efficient.
Read more
Most modern car a/c compressors have variable displacement, so when there is less demand for cooling, there is less load on the engine. Some cars even have compressors which are clutchless and always running.
Having said that, cars sold in countries with tropical climates tend to have thermostats which just cycle the compressor on and off; this must be more efficient, but when one is at a standstill you do notice the car revs changing slightly when the compressor switches on/off.
Ive only had my fiesta 04 plate for two months and the eac fail has come on and it loses power . it done it a couple of times then stopped for a few days but it has started again and the engine management light has come on , does anyone know what is wrong with my car ?? thanks
Read more
No need to post in both rooms - the one in Technical is the one that'll be kept running.
hi room, with all this misfuelling debacle why cant the petrol stations have dedicated pumps ie diesel on one side of the forecourt and petrol on tuther? that way at least the numpty in the wrong queue may at least get a friendly nod from the car behind or even better have painted arrows upon entry with corresponding signage... zoo Read more
Frankly I'd advocate removing the driving licenses of those who do it becuase it's quite
clear they are not intelligent enough to be trusted with a motor vehicle.
Or at least mark the V5 of the car in question, so that the poor sap who gets the car next knows what he's getting himself into.
That might be the ultimate answer -- hit people in the pocket. If their £25K BMW suddenly becomes worth £15K because of a stupid mistake, people might be a little more careful. Frankly I don't care if someone suffers due to their own mistake, but it is unfortunate when an unsuspecting punter buys an offloaded trashed engine.
I know it's unenforceable, unfortunately.
Since coming back from the MOT the idle control valve appeared to be jammed, my machanic has put the computer on the computer and nothing showed up, it now idles at 1800rpm instead of 800, otherwise the car drives perfectly other than the over revving we have been putting up with for ages.
He cleaned it out still no better but when he unplugged it the car idleled at 800rpm suggesting this is what is causing the problem.
I have seen lots of OEM ones on ebay for around £20 so I am going to buy one of these, however I have seen different advice on fitting.
1) Will I need to buy a new gasket?
2) Will the ECU need a reset afterwards if they what is the best way of doing this?
Thanks. Read more
In otherwords another sensor some where is fautly causing the idle control valve to not to operate correctly?
I will try disconnecting the ECU fuse tomorrow rather than disconnect the battery as I am not sure I have the radio code.
Guilty of the modern crime of "impeding another`s progress on the roads" today.
White Rose Shopping centre roundabout. Exiting onto RB and about to do a 3/4 circuit to the right.
Another car pulled alongside, in left lane while waiting to enter RB. Assumed it was going left. But no. went right around the outside of me but exiting found itself alongside me and unable to go past on the inside (just off RB) due to a slower car being in front of it, which had entered from our left.
I looked across, unable to move into the left lane (on RB or after exit) due to this (left lane overtaker) cars presence.
Now here`s the thing. This RB exits on an uphill slope and (held in the outer lane on exit) I was unable to move past the car in front of us both, as in the old Punto 1.9D no turbo-no power. NO power that is..
Of course, I instantly slowed to allow the `left side overtaker` though rather than block the outer lane.
Not before seeing her face contort with fury though at ending up boxed in and I received some unrecognised finger signals, which I assume are a text talk type thing?
So what`s it mean when you make with the fingers like the Hydra`s head? and how can I defer to the new `impeding my Progress` personal `right` that seems to be developing?
Perhaps cars should now be fitted with alternating flashing headlights and loud grunt horns to let the poor sap in front know that a `Right To Progress` person is behind, or even alongside?
{corrected typo in header}
Read more
Definitely the last Ice Age to blame; it didn't kill off the driver, either.
Hi everybody!
Does anybody knows where's the remote door lock receiver to be found in this car?
Thanks for reply!
Peyot357
slt Read more
It's either going to be in the alarm module in the centre console driver's side; or in the central locking module in the dash behind the instruments.
Anyone have any idea what one of these might sell for?
3 years old, 20,000 miles in good order generally.
Some of the trade retail prices I have seen are about £7000.
Thanks
screwtape Read more
I had not considered vandalism.
A neighbour had a motability car but considering his disability it was hardly any compensation at all. Nothing to be jealous about.
screwtape
Browse
.jpg)
If I'm away from home and need some motoring skill that I don't have then a quick trip onto a car lot when its quiet will provide this sort of info. They'll all have a phone number for a mobile a/c specialist.