June 2008
New Tiguan, 2 months old, 2000 mls, had a run to Manchester yesterday to see the daughter at University. Went down to my usual supermarket and topped up with diesel, on the way out in second gear does not seem to have any power,pull in, switch off, switch back on and glow plug light flashing plus message to get in touch with dealer. Check lights again, engine light also lit saying exhaust fault. Ring VW assist, they say approx 90 mins, ring local dealer approx 2 miles away, after discussion says drive to him. Short story, hook up to computer, cannot determine fault, thinks it might be turbo or injectors !!! require car for longer to investigate, loan car provided.
1. Fright time initially, thought I had put wrong fuel in, check pump, check receipt, definately diesel
2. Dealer needs more time to investigate, no history known of similar faults
3. Dealer good with loan car (especially as I didn't buy car from them)
4. Bit worrying about reliability at so short a time. Read more
Audi A3 (2001) 79K 110bhp TDI - Having had a power loss problem about 12 months ago, it was finally solved by replacing the air mass meter. This morning, and with no sign right up to the night before, the car has begun doing the same thing again. In the first mile of driving I noticed the delayed acceleration and lack of power. The revs are on the high side but no real response.
Could the air mass meter have gone after 10-12 months (20K miles)?
Might is be a turbo failure
I don't think it's the clutch as it feels ok
4 weeks ago the water pump had to be replaced as the blades were broken and causing it to overheat. THis has been fixed and has been running fine since.
Any useful comments would be appreciated, before I speak to the garage....
cheers Read more
tystie
Yes; it was when you mentioned Aberdeen that I remembered the 306.
Without wishing to seem patronizing; I've found that cars in the more remote areas are, on average, about 5 years older than cars in the SE. [And you actually repair them when they go wrong...]
So what I see today will be commonplace there in 5 years - only worse, due to increased road-shock and climatic wiring degradation..... Heaven help you.
I'm wondering if there is any one out there who has fallen victim to thieve who steal BMW sport coupe bumpers and skirts? This seem to be the trend in London right now and I would like to know how to secure my skirts and bumpers so they cannot be removed from the outside of the car. BMW don't seem to be interested as they make money from victims of theft buying parts from them.
I've had my stolen twice in six months and I'm desparate for a resolution. The police think it's related to drug addicts looking for a quick buck! What to do, what to do??
Nwan! Read more
Thank you for your thought - and I completely take your point. There are a number of legit sources I feel, including:
- breakers
- people / firms selling non-OEM parts
- people who have them from another legit source
The owner of one of the UK's largest BMW breakers was kind enough to deliver my replacement bumper last night, and we discussed the problem. I would prefer him to speak for himself, but I will relay one comment, which was that he comes across maybe 2 or 3 complete front ends a year - because most of the cars he breaks have been crashed, and usually it is the front end that is damaged.
On that basis, whilst I completely accept that some of the bumpers for sale are legit, people on eBay with low numbers of feedback, who are able to source an M5 bumper once a week, are at the very least worth investigating...
That said, having had a read around on various forums, a lot of bumpers are getting stolen - so if you have any other ideas as to where they end up (other than eBay) then I'd be interested in your thoughts, and will incorporate them in my letter to the police.
Again, if anyone has had this happen to them please let me know...
Following up the letter published in the may 31 edition I recently had a safety report on my Grand Scenic 1.9 dci first registered september 2004 with 29000 miles saying the discs were pitted. When I challenged such unwelcome news on a three year old car with less than 30K miles I was told it was because I used the bakes a lot on local journeys and discs lasted much better on cars doing high mileage on motorways. Is this problem a Scenic failing, a general Renault problem or are all makes now requiring new discs at such an early stage.
In addition to the disc problem this Spring the heater (which never performed well) reostat burned out and cost about £350 to replace -mainly labour- and the glow plugs had to be replaced after the meassge came up "check injection". I am told the plugs do wear out but Renault do not specify a time or service mileage replacement interval leaving owners to be confronted with a worring meassage at any time. Read more
Why not just change the GPS to kph?
I have just fitted a D8A XUD9 into my 306 and the only way i can get it to run is remove the plunger from the stop solenoid.
I have tried another solenoid to no affect.
The spring and plunger inside both seem OK.
When I prime the pump fuel seems to go past the solenoid with ignition turned on.
But it wont start.
I am wondering if the high pressure pump in the injector pump is weak.
Anyone know of a link to LUCAS CAV pump technical info thanks? Read more
OK its starting to make sense.
Engine would not start because the 12V going to the screw lug on the StOP Solenoid disappeared at key start.
WHY?
Think its cos the injector pump XUD110 on the D8A engine I bought is not exactly same as XUD114 on engine I removed.
DIFFERENCES.
XUD110 has a Blue plug which is connected to the wires that go to the Solenoid.
However on the XUD114 later pump there is also a single wire lug that goes to the round cylinder thingie on the side of the injector pump.
When I start the engine cold with the Solenoid wire connected it runs for 5 minutes and then the 12 volts disappears from the solenoid.
This is obviously the wrong 12V feed, I think it is supposed to go to the round cyclinder and maybe is a heater or post start current to get the fuel warm.
So I have to figure out where I am supposed to get the 12 volts from to feed the Stop solenoid.
I will sort it but the wiring diagram in Haynes manual is not too clear.
I am also one connector left over a grey three pin that goes nowhere.
If anyone can tell me the exact difference between the D8A XUD110 and the DHY XUD114 pump would appreciate it.
At least engine goes now and stops after it heats up.
Worse case scenario run wire from ignition switch.
QED.
My friend has fiesta whose brake light switch is not activated with the brakes off so it needs adjusting. Some advice says twist it 90 degrees then move it but I'm worried about breaking it as it won't easly move. Is that how it's done? Read more
Yes it is. Just had the same problem, spent ages trying to work it out. Did it turn or did it slide? Both ! Turn 90 degrees anticlockwise, then it just slides where you want it. Turn back and Bingo.....job done in 30 secs.
My CC has been hit for three fraudulant transactions in very rapid order in the USA.
My CC co identified it, contacted me 09:00 the next morning a credited all ££s back instantly. The transaction were not for large sums.
I am trying to work out where / when the cloning originated.
I do not use the card online.
I visited a major supermarket and three hours later @ 00:00 hours the USA transactions occurred. I would have thought this supermarket was an unlikely source of the problem.
I had a visit to not my normal filling station but in my general area, a couple of weeks ago.
So beware in the Esher / Kingston area.:-)
( I always inform my CC Co. when I will be using it abroad) Read more
It really wouldn't be too difficult to sting these scammers at point of delivery. Certainly in the UK.
We tow a caravan (1387kg loaded). For some reason I have presumed that diesel is better for towing but is that really the case? Advice appreciated! Read more
>>I say diesel.
>>IJ
Yes, likewise - I forgot to say that older turbo diesels used to supply exactly the characteristic I described. The torque would fall with rising rpm, producing a very flat power curve, sacrificing ultimate power levels for excellent tractability.
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I'd forget travellers cheques - you can use a cashpoint when you're there. So take some money but maybe not too much.
At the start of May we went to Lefkas and took about ?200 which worked out at the time as ?1.19 to the £ and was "commission free". Took money out twice when over there which will have had a fee. Even taking into the fee I got ?1.22 to the £.
I would not pay for anything overseas in a restaurant with a debit card. I'd use cash or credit card. In fact I do the same over here in case someone has tampered with the credit card machine.
hi i have an 02 130 tdci itis woked as a taxi and is now on 150,000+ when the light comes on and i have it re set it is always a different injector that shows up, now when its re set it only stays set for approx a month or about 3000 miles. when ever i ask about it they always seem to have a new theory on it. i also heard that its only the 130 that has this problem. i cant believe that it is not known after all this time. its a shame ford stay quiet on this its an excellent car other wise still drives like its only done 10,000 any body any ideas ? Read more
oh dear!
Well I was going to take it to the garage to get the codes, tried to start the thing and Nothing. After about the 10th go it spluttered into life coughing tons of black smoke out. The smoke was then quite thick and blue. I tried to move forward in it and it just spluttered forward. I don't fancy taking any chances as I doubt I would get to the garage!
I guess more reading to solve this issue is needed. After this I am getting rid, I just can't trust this car anymore!
FOR SALE
2002 FORD MONDEO GHIA TDCI (130BHP)
Lovely red colour, fully loaded with electric seats, wing mirrors, windows. Aircon, climate control. 6 CD multichanger. Heated seats, windows. Cream leather, alloy wheels. Oh just one little snag..... It has a slight "teething" problem!
will consider PX for a skip on wheels.
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Claybuster
The charge air pressure sensor is just, yet, another way of describing the MAP/boost/thrust sensor that monitors the air pressure in the intake tract.
They seem very confident of their diagnosis? Personally; I'd be surprised if that code has the weight to initiate a default to limp-home mode and cut the power - there are plenty of other codes for incorrect boost pressure available.
However; software parameters are a movable feast - so, hopefully, that's all it was....