June 2008

malteser

With regrets, [don't ask!], after living for 7 years in Spain, we are probably returning to Britain in the fairly near future.
Here, we have been happy with our Skoda Fabia 1.9tdi, which we bought new here in 2001.
It performs very well and is reasonably economical, particularly as the price of diesel here has, until recently, been substantially less than petrol. (As an aside I filled up with Shell diesel in Gibraltar last week for £0.81 per litre, whereas in Spain it is now 1,29 Euros per litre).
We are both retired on VERY modest fixed pensions and economy of purchase, road tax, insurance and VED are of prime importance - to the exclusion of pretty well any other criteria.
So - should we keep our Fabia (LHD) in the UK? Generally used car prices here hold up well compared to the UK, so selling here and starting afresh might be a good option.
We will not be doing huge mileages in the UK, but will need a car to transport us and two young grandchildren, plus occasionally their mother. No dogs, thank heavens!
We have driven and liked a FIAT Panda 1.2 active, but it might be a smidgen too small.
Any sensible suggestions in the used car market? Remember,cost is critical.
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Avant

I'd suggest selling the Fabia in Spain and buying another Fabia with RHD when you come back: they've made them since X-reg so there should be one to fit your budget whatever that is.

If your mileage won't be high, go for a 1.4 100 bhp petrol model - they go very well.

oilrag

This could be worth a check on all Fiat 1.3 multijet engines as deployed in the different models.
I found the auxiliary poly V belt was quite badly cracked on the drive surface at 2.5 yrs and 20,000 miles. (2005 Mk2b Punto Van)
Allegedly this belt is supposed to last the life of the engine so I was quite surprised, but its easy to replace.

At first glance the belt may look fine but
I found the best way to check the belts inner surface for cracks was to run my fingers over the surface of the belt as it folds back over the tensioner pully.
Then I drew a belt run diagram and put a socket wrench on the tensioner nut. Pulling back towards me on the wrench took the tension out and the belt just slips off. Same with the replacement. (non aircon, my model)

At only around £12 (OE) and taking less than two minutes to do, I thought it not worth arguing the point over whether the old belt was fit for further service.

Anyone else with a 1.3 Multijet and low mileage belt cracking?

oilrag




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oilrag

"dearth of wax-hoyle..:) "

I knew you would say that!!

It was my first experience of an automatic tensioner too, much easier than in the `good old days` when I seem to remember levering alternators back with all sorts of things to get the tension. ;)

jezzamagic

Hi All,
Really hope someone can help shed some light on my probs? It started about a month ago when we needed the flexi hose replaced.I got it done at trade costs from a mate,but it could only be done on his days off but still at his works yard.

He fitted it but said it needed re-doing as he only had time to quickly put it on,and i still have to wait till this thursday to get it finished.It was a lot lot quieter but still on the noisy blowing side.Then it started to blow worse and over past week the revs have been jumping,stalling the car a few times at lights.

Yesterday the wife said it was terrible so we went out for a drive and i first thought it was overheating as you can smell summat funny.I opened the bonnet today after driving and the heat from the engine was immense.(unsure if its usually like that).I drove to town today and the 1st mile was fine then it really started to splutter.

It almost stops but then picks up very quickly then splutters and just goes in the same cycle over and over.I am now thinking of possibly timing,spark plugs or leads? Also the other day i checked the oil and it was empty so i had just enough to bring it inside the lines...just enough.Sometimes if you are in neutral or you got the clutch down too long it'll stall so its getting quite dangerous.If it werent for the spluttery blowing i would be thinking of fuel coz that's how it feels.It seems like you just ran out and the engines only turning as its in gear and in motion then all of a sudden its like it just found a gallon or so.


Sorry if it all sounds a lot but i'm just trying to get as many faults listed hoping someone can pinpoint it...thanks for reading and moreso for having this site.

Regards

Jezza Read more

Screwloose


Not surprised that the MIL light is on - probably an oxygen sensor code.

Sounds like you have more than one problem; that exhaust issue won't affect the immobilizer.

Keith1

REF: HJ's telegraph Q&A SAT 28 JUNE '08

Does any one know why an ex rental would be better run in than a car bought from a private seller? Can someone expand on HJs reply? Surely a private owner would take more care to run the car in strictly adhering to any guidelines given by the manufacturer. How many renters will adhere to these guidelines? I doubt most even read the handbook before pulling off.

I understand PJs query to be more about the potential damage caused to his wife's Passat by careless renters. I drive rentals regularly for work purposes and some of them are seriously abused by other users before I get my hands on the them. The engines can sound extremely rough presumably from being driven very hard and possibly before the engine has had chance to warm (very damaging for obvious reasons).

K. Read more

oldnotbold

The best car I ever had was an ex-rental Mondeo 2.0, 97 model. About ten months old, 10k, and rang like a dream for two years. Nothing, absolutely nothing went wrong.

Petel

Can anyone please advise, re door mirrors found on some up-market models, where the mirror motors to a folded position when the ignition is switched off and out again when the ignition is switched back on.

Is the motor driving the mirror in the door or built into the mirror assy?
Thank you. Read more

El Hacko

right, see what you mean - pity. It's the only feature I miss abt the Lexus

Barnesoid

I'm looking for some help!

My 97 VW Polo has recently developed a leak. It started in the rear with both doors leaking. I managed to stop this by bringing all the door in closer to the car. This has solved the leak at the back but now I have developed a leak in the front passenger footwell. This is periodic and seems to be mainly when the weather is really bad. Water appears to be leaking over the door rubber at the bottom of the door as when you open the door you can see the door rubber has water running along it.

Any suggestions?

Thank you Read more

Rich320d

Hi,

Worth checking a couple of things...

Check the pollen filter is seated properly, its at the base of the windscreen on the passenger side, access is through the chamber at the bottom of the windscreen.

Also I would say if water is leaking in around the door seals, its going to be coming from the door membrane behind the inside door cards/trim.

On a lot of VW Group cars, behind the inside door trim the window mechanism is mounted on a steel plate that is bolted to the inside of the door, the rubber seal around the edge can fail allowing water to dribble in. You see the water that gets past the rubber seal at the bottom of the glass is suposed to pass through the inside of the door and out the drain holes at the bottom, not get in the car. Its been a problem on Mk4 Golfs and Mk1 SKoda Fabias...

www.fabia-vrs.com/technical/door_carrier.html

henry k

My vote for installing a flyover across a roundabout would be:

THE roundabout on the A3.
From London Putney to Portsmouth there is ONE roundabout.
When the Devils Punchbowl tunnel is completed the A3 / A3(M) will be dual carriageway for the whole route.
We do penny pinch at times :-( Read more

Ed V

I have reported on it on another thread.

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?f=2&t=64...3

mbah4

Can anyone advise me if it is possible to replace the waterpump in situ without having to replace the timing belt as well? The auxiliary belt will of course be replaced in the process.

The Haynes manual appears to indicate that it is possible for the 1.6 petrol engine but photos in the manual do not appear to bear this out.

Secondly are there any known issues with refilling the cooling system such as air bleeding etc??

After 47,000 reliable miles it decided to spring a major leak the night before we were due to drive across France - I suppose that's better than doing it on the way!

Thanks for your help Read more

David Horn

Out here now and settled in, have the choice of a Ford Explorer or a Kia Sedona to drive. Not had any problems so far, driving is very easy here. Being able to turn right on a red light is brilliant.

They have a much better drink-drive policy and I'm a big fan of the way they double penalties in road works if people are actually working there. Don't like the lack of roundabouts.

Most people seem to stick to the speed limit around town, apart from on the freeways. It's a 55 limit, and everyone (and I mean everyone) is plowing along at 20-30mph above this. We were told by the police when we arrived to stick rigidly to this speed limit, which I've been doing.

However, it's getting to be really disconcerting having a massive truck thunder past at 70mph (corollary: perhaps this is why they have so many road deaths?), and I'm opening the question to the floor: is is safer to stick to the 55mph limit, or simply do the same speed as everyone else and take the chance of being stopped (and shot)? Read more

jbif

>>.. it was very heavily policed - we saw a fair number of people pulled over.

The same as I saw on a drive from LA to Las Vegas on th I15. A number of SUVs had gone past at over 80mph and sure enough just before LA, there were about 20 of them who had been ambushed by a waiting posse of Patrol cars. They had been clocked by the helicopter cops.

twang

Am I allowed to ask about a van here? Just got a Renault Trafic, turns out the power steering rack is shot (seals are gone I guess, leaks fluid badly out of the gaters). I haven't replaced a steering rack before, it looks like it's pretty straightforward job but I don't have the workshop manual (which I would normally consult before starting a job I haven't done before). Does anybody know if there's anything tricky about it, or if there's any knacks/tips or oddities that I should know about before I start? The particular part I'm unsure about is where the steering column goes into the power steering unit, but any advice would be appreciated. Many thanks. Read more