March 2008
At last!
www.theregister.co.uk/2008/03/25/soot_solution/
Getting rid of diesels would be a good start, IMHO.. :-) Read more
Hi folks.
I'm going to be moving back to the UK in a couple of months, having spent the last 10 years in South America. Although I have been back regularly during that time, I'm not really up to date with cars in the UK, and wonder if you'd like to throw some recommendations at me?
The broad requirements I have are;
- Must have 4 doors and a reasonable boot (have a young family).
- Diesel definitely preferred.
- I'll have around £5k deposit, and would want to finance the rest on a budget of say £350 to 400 / month.
- Would prefer a straighforward finance, not leaving a lumpsum at the end. I'd like to own the car, so I guess that means not a lease.
- Prefer new, but haven't excluded a 1-2 year old used car, if it's in good nick.
Probably left out some vital detail, but would be interested to hear your ideas. I had in mind possibly a Golf TDI, even a Passat if the finance will stretch to it. Also thought about a Volvo.
I'm not against something a little more unusual, but don't want to go too mad as this needs to be hassle free.
Thanks in advance for your help.
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>>Heh. I'm sorry, I really didn't mean to kick off the Skoda thing.
You didn't. We did!
Take a chance on me................
My garage man tells me he can't MoT the car right now as the VOSA MOT system is down. What a pain for him, and all the other businesses like his that now have to re-schedule work, and let down their customers. How often does this happen? Read more
I was told by the lad (who is not the owner, he might be away) that the manual testing procedure had to be authorised by VOSA, and would only be done if the system was down for more than XX minutes/hours. There wasn't enough time left today for that to be invoked, he said.
Hi All, I am trying to remove the inlet manifold on my accord 2.0 ivtec.( want to dril and tap it for gas injectors).
Got the throttle body off no probs, undid the retaining bolts etc, but it seems to be anchored low down on the right (nearside) and this is difficult to see and access. I do not have a ramp or pit. Also do not have a workshop manual. Can anyone tell me what this anchorage is and how to undo it?
Thanks for any help
Paul
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the anchorage you talk about low down on the nearside is a support bar that supports the manifold from underneath, you really need to get the front under tray removed then you should have enough access to get to the securing bolts.
Saw some friends over the weekend and immediately noticed his new (second hand) van had my initials on his number plate. That'd be nice for my car I thought.
I'm sure he'd give it to me for nothing so long as I covered any costs for him (and bought him alcohol) but I have no idea what those costs would be.
Can anyone advise on the costs involved? Also, is it lots of hassle for us (changing insurance, tax disc etc.)?
Thanks in advance. Read more
Ah, DVLA office. Just checked, nearest is Chelmsford which isn't too far from me.
All Civic owners getting a letter it seems
news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/7312427.stm
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I got the same in the 60s; hold the button in all the way until "resistance is felt" then drop the button and click the last tooth or so. And that's the way I've been doing it ever since.
Bill
In my time, I have bought two such gauges but found them lacking in their ability in being able to seal quickly and accurately with the Schrader valve.
The problem seems to be that the sealing 'rubber' material in the gauge is too hard and not resilient enough to form an immediated seal without letting out unnecessary tyre air thus having to often input more air than should have been necessary.
I have bought a pistol grip-shaped one and a De Luxe one, both from Halfords but I was wondering if anyone knew of something more reliable - would like one with a digital readout?
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Still use mine.
I got advisory on brake pipes recently.
I've had a look at them. They are mostly still coated in plastic. The part where they are slightly corroded is where they are bare a few inches from the flexi hose.
Can the life of these pipes be prelonged?
I thought that greasing them might preserve them a bit longer but I wasn't sure if I'd be sealing water into the corrosion. I then started thinking about the possiblity of using a de-oxidiser like Krust and some primer but I'm not sure if that would be safe to do.
Alternatively I could have them replaced but I suspect that whatever they are replaced with will not be plastic coated and won't last as long. Read more
I agree. I would be very surprised if they were that bad, but like with every other component check. Whip off the wheels and inspect. Give them a rub down and if they are 'just a bit brown' then I would Waxoyl (or similar) them. If it is moderately or badly pitted, I would replace it. Grease and Waxoyl work by cutting off the oxygen.
No oxygen = no corrosion.
I have just bought anS60 D5 SE 54 plate with 47k with afull dealer history. Can someone tell me when i should change the timing belt?
Hmmm! You've been a member since Jan 2008. I suppose it's asking too much for you to have spotted the 3 separate requests to include the year and engine in the subject header in that short amount of time? Read more
Volvo say change the timing and aux belts (with tensioners) every 108,000 miles or six years.
So it's up to you. I've not heard of these cars snapping belts early, so I don't think Volvo are being unduly optimistic.
Hi, i've just bought a 2005 D5 SE auto, and i've heard that the autos can have problems such as coolant entering and mixing with the ATM and wear because of the going into neutral when foot on the brake thing? does anyone know if the 05 ones were affected or were the problems ironed out, its the facelift model by the way with geartronic, 5 speed i think. Thanks in advance. Just one more thing its got the sports pack with 18" wheels, do you know the original size tyres for for these wheels. Read more
Thanks OB, yes i did know the vectras had probs and being the same box i was concerned.
Browse
These days a modern diesel engine with a DPF cleans up the soot and hardly smell at all. A cold petrol engine throws out hydrocarbons via the exhaust which are not exactly healthy if/when you breath them in.