March 2008
The central locking on my SEAT (which uses the same system to Polos and Golfs of that age) has developed a leak. When one locks the doors, they all still lock, but the vacuum pump continues to run for about half a minute, after which point the doors will not unlock automatically. It was more of an inconvenience when I couldn't easily open the fuel filler cap despite following the instructions in the manual!
I have found the source of the leak to be the locking mechanism for the fuel filler cap; fiddling with the mechanism gets the locking working normally. Unfortunately the mechanism is quite inaccessible as it's between the two metal panels; I have tried putting grease around the metal pin that moves, but this hasn't resolved the issue.
Due to the car's age and value, I don't really want to spend a lot of money on this, unless it is relatively straightforward.
If this isn't the case, is it a viable option to just block off the tube which leads to the filler cap with silicone sealant? The filler cap would obviously not be lockable, but this would not be obvious. I didn't want to try this as if it affected the rest of the locking, I would be in a worse situation than presently.
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Please advise how to access and change fuel filter in my 2004 C-Max 1.6 TDCI auto ,
many thanks nottsruss
Engine and year details inserted and considerable effort compared to deletion Read more
I am advertising my car for sale this week in my local paper. Having read a number of horror story threads I wonder if anyone can advise me how to conduct the sale so that both buyer and seller are protected. I am going to insist on seeing insurance documentation before anyone drives it. They will only get delivery of the car on receipt of cleared funds. I will ask their bank to confirm that payment will be honoured (something the Scottish banking system permits but the English one doesn?t.) That commits the bank to the transaction.
I haven?t had the car HPI checked and it?s possible that a potential buyer may wish to do this early in the process. What would be the appropriate response to a request for the registration mark/VIN in order to have this carried out? Should I get an HPI check done myself?
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but not one which is stolen or some other related fraud such as stolen money in their account.
Only if you are a knowing party to the fraud.
The links I posted (bba & apacs ) are the banks' own bodies. You can find similar statements from the regulatory authorities such as the OFT.
Call firstdirect again and ask to speak to a Manager who knows their stuff. Refer them to the 2-4-6 changes.
Hi, I have a 2003 1.9 TDi 130 SE and have had a wet front drivers side footwell a couple of times. The back drivers side is not wet and neither is the passangers side front or back. I have checked the door seal and all seems to be fine.
I see there have been discussions about a wet rear footwell but not the front. Any ideas would be appreciated? Thanks Read more
Check the front bulkhead at the botom of the windscreen to see if it holds water. If it does get it sorted it as soon as possible because it will cause major electrical damage. There are two drain holes that get blocked easily. Modification usually involves making the holes bigger I think by removing the two rubber grommits.
Easy way to check it is to remove the plastic cover at the bottom of the windscreen and tip some water into the void where the battery fits carefully with a watering can.It should run away fairly quickly.
Here is some guidance www.weirdlittlebiscuit.com/passat/leak/
hi all
just wondered if you guys help me out on this problem that i have with my peugeot 306 turbo diesel.N reg
cold start and it starts fine but there's loads of grey smoke and once the engine is warm it takes ages (about a minute) for it to start and again there's loads of smoke. its really annoying especially when it starts ok from cold but once i drive somewhere and warmed the engine up, turn the engine of and start it again it takes ages for it to start to the point were it nearly flattens the battery.
i have put new glow plugs in but have the same problem.
any ideas guys?
cheers subiacoste Read more
If the glow plugs are of the correct TYPE and are working - then I would check the valve clearances. These tighten up over time and cause a loss of compression, hence bad starting.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
In the Honest John review of the mark 2 focus they mention the rain runoff from the edge seam of the hatchback glass are there any fixes, symptom after rain if you open and lift the tailgate hatch , water held in the open seam of where the tailgate glass is bonded to the tailgate runs off into the boot .
This sounds trivial but it isnt as a lot of water can be held there, I wondered if the seam which is like a long gap can be sealed with some sort of flexible sealant (clear obviously) to prevent the water being held in it and if doing so will make replacement of the glass (if ever it has to be done) difficult.
Like I said the Honest John road report of the mark 2 focus mentions this and have one of the last ones (Jan 2008) and I am at a loss as to why Ford themselves never did a fix on this all the time the mark 2 model ran.
There must be owners of mark 2s that have done a fix on this.
assistance please.
Thanks
Old Lag Read more
The 'cause' is obvious what it is is that at each side of the tailgate the glass bonds and there is a long gap up each side of where the glass is bonded to the tailgate - in a sense the bond is there yet the glass runs on past the bond and at each edge there is a channell water collects in..
To me the obvious answer is to fill the long gap each side with a sealant, now it has to be something which can be removed easily should the tailgate glass get broken and need replacing.
I am amazed Ford never did a fix on this , maybe the mark 3 model has a fix on it as otherwise the tailgaet ids similar etc.
I must look at a mark 3.
Any ideas on sealant are welcome.
Incidentally I dont rate this car one bit I had a mark 1 before and it was hugely better until (as it was a TDCI) it developed a love of garages.
This has to be my last FORD especially as the Dealer treated ne very badly when I bought it brand new in mid january 2008. I would never want to bay another one off them or Ford either full stop.
Ive got a 1,9tdi estate with 75,000miles ,starts fine when cold but when warm its doesnt like starting any ideas ,timing belt on correctly?
Engine type inserted despite the easy to miss three requests
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I have a '54 reg' 1.9TDI PD DSG saloon which after 30,000 miles started doing the same. Still did after its 33,000 mile service. Again, any ideas?
Just been away for a couple of nights. The hotel was spread out and it had a few lodges in the grounds. Lodge owners were ferried around in a Subaru Tribeca - first time I've seen one and knew little of them. Now realise why I don't see many - 3.0 petrol auto and £30K+ new. Not too sure about the front end look, but it looked very well appointed inside.
Whilst looking at the Subaru website I also saw they still do the Justy - has anyone seen a new one? They never get a mention when someone is looking for a supermini - any reason why? Read more
Subrau were rightly criticised for the Tribeca being ugly - apparently there is a facelift due to resolve this fairly soon - not the usual 3 yr wait.
Ugly + no Diesel + overpriced it was doomed in the UK.
All the Subaru dealers should have a Tribeca Demo car just like Honda dealers have a Legend but it still makes little difference toi the number on the road.
The Legend is not ugly but not German + no diesel + overpriced will see few on UK roads.
My 2000 1.8 20v se has a fuel consumption meter which has recently started to read erratically and inaccurately. I assume it monitors the fuel intake vacuum pressure.
Engine performance does not appear to be affected in any way. Any ideas as to what could be causing the problem? Thanks.
{year/engine added to the subject header - would have made my life easier if you had done it in the first place!} Read more
I think it is a bit more sophisticated than this. I think the fuel computer takes an output from the ECU based on injected fuel quantities. If you are looking at the instantaneos fuel consumption, it will always be erratic I would have thought.
My few have been run of the mill, but I guess members must have some more interesting one. Read more
I recall back in the 90s driving along the M20 with my wife and doing a double take shortly after a lorry had joined the carriageway and parted company with one of its trailer wheels which was rolling merrily along at a good 50+ mph and continued to roll beween the lanes of traffic and came to rest several hundred yards down the motorway having hit the central reservation. Several cars swerved and skidded, traffic in all three lanes came to a stand still but some how none collided with either the wheel or each other. The articulated lorry continued on seemingly oblivious to what had happened until a motorcyclist set off in pursuit and waved him down.
Browse
I too have the pump running on problem and just wondered how you managed to find the fault/leak so quickly. Did you follow a laid down procedure that I could get my hands on for instance?
Thanks in advance.