March 2008
hi all
just wondered if you guys help me out on this problem that i have with my peugeot 306 turbo diesel.N reg
cold start and it starts fine but there's loads of grey smoke and once the engine is warm it takes ages (about a minute) for it to start and again there's loads of smoke. its really annoying especially when it starts ok from cold but once i drive somewhere and warmed the engine up, turn the engine of and start it again it takes ages for it to start to the point were it nearly flattens the battery.
i have put new glow plugs in but have the same problem.
any ideas guys?
cheers subiacoste Read more
In the Honest John review of the mark 2 focus they mention the rain runoff from the edge seam of the hatchback glass are there any fixes, symptom after rain if you open and lift the tailgate hatch , water held in the open seam of where the tailgate glass is bonded to the tailgate runs off into the boot .
This sounds trivial but it isnt as a lot of water can be held there, I wondered if the seam which is like a long gap can be sealed with some sort of flexible sealant (clear obviously) to prevent the water being held in it and if doing so will make replacement of the glass (if ever it has to be done) difficult.
Like I said the Honest John road report of the mark 2 focus mentions this and have one of the last ones (Jan 2008) and I am at a loss as to why Ford themselves never did a fix on this all the time the mark 2 model ran.
There must be owners of mark 2s that have done a fix on this.
assistance please.
Thanks
Old Lag Read more
The 'cause' is obvious what it is is that at each side of the tailgate the glass bonds and there is a long gap up each side of where the glass is bonded to the tailgate - in a sense the bond is there yet the glass runs on past the bond and at each edge there is a channell water collects in..
To me the obvious answer is to fill the long gap each side with a sealant, now it has to be something which can be removed easily should the tailgate glass get broken and need replacing.
I am amazed Ford never did a fix on this , maybe the mark 3 model has a fix on it as otherwise the tailgaet ids similar etc.
I must look at a mark 3.
Any ideas on sealant are welcome.
Incidentally I dont rate this car one bit I had a mark 1 before and it was hugely better until (as it was a TDCI) it developed a love of garages.
This has to be my last FORD especially as the Dealer treated ne very badly when I bought it brand new in mid january 2008. I would never want to bay another one off them or Ford either full stop.
Ive got a 1,9tdi estate with 75,000miles ,starts fine when cold but when warm its doesnt like starting any ideas ,timing belt on correctly?
Engine type inserted despite the easy to miss three requests
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I have a '54 reg' 1.9TDI PD DSG saloon which after 30,000 miles started doing the same. Still did after its 33,000 mile service. Again, any ideas?
Just been away for a couple of nights. The hotel was spread out and it had a few lodges in the grounds. Lodge owners were ferried around in a Subaru Tribeca - first time I've seen one and knew little of them. Now realise why I don't see many - 3.0 petrol auto and £30K+ new. Not too sure about the front end look, but it looked very well appointed inside.
Whilst looking at the Subaru website I also saw they still do the Justy - has anyone seen a new one? They never get a mention when someone is looking for a supermini - any reason why? Read more
Subrau were rightly criticised for the Tribeca being ugly - apparently there is a facelift due to resolve this fairly soon - not the usual 3 yr wait.
Ugly + no Diesel + overpriced it was doomed in the UK.
All the Subaru dealers should have a Tribeca Demo car just like Honda dealers have a Legend but it still makes little difference toi the number on the road.
The Legend is not ugly but not German + no diesel + overpriced will see few on UK roads.
My 2000 1.8 20v se has a fuel consumption meter which has recently started to read erratically and inaccurately. I assume it monitors the fuel intake vacuum pressure.
Engine performance does not appear to be affected in any way. Any ideas as to what could be causing the problem? Thanks.
{year/engine added to the subject header - would have made my life easier if you had done it in the first place!} Read more
I think it is a bit more sophisticated than this. I think the fuel computer takes an output from the ECU based on injected fuel quantities. If you are looking at the instantaneos fuel consumption, it will always be erratic I would have thought.
My few have been run of the mill, but I guess members must have some more interesting one. Read more
I recall back in the 90s driving along the M20 with my wife and doing a double take shortly after a lorry had joined the carriageway and parted company with one of its trailer wheels which was rolling merrily along at a good 50+ mph and continued to roll beween the lanes of traffic and came to rest several hundred yards down the motorway having hit the central reservation. Several cars swerved and skidded, traffic in all three lanes came to a stand still but some how none collided with either the wheel or each other. The articulated lorry continued on seemingly oblivious to what had happened until a motorcyclist set off in pursuit and waved him down.
With the current cost of petrol and the VED changes in the budget everybody is talking about fuel consumption and emissions. These days most cars come with all the extras (PAS, A/C, e/w, etc.) which add weight and increase fuel consumption. Has anyone ever worked out the cost of these on a per annum or lifetime basis? A friend ran a base Ka for many years. She recently changed it for a more recent model with PAS and A/C. After 5,000 miles she finds the newer car does 5 - 7 less mpg. Having ridden in both the new one also seems busier (lower gearing?). She finds the PAS an unnecessary extra. It would appear that besides adding to the purchase price it also adds to the onging running costs. Read more
If it is lower geared, perhaps that is to blame for the mpg, not the PAS and AC?
Hi Guys, firstly hi and secondly thanks a bunch for your replies to other threads on here, you saved my bacon yesterday. I will start from the begining as its a long story!
Ok from the start, basically my girlfreinds 1.3 96 fiesta 1.3 8v needed a service so being fairly technically savvy I attempted the service myself. Firstly I went for the plugs which on inspection had rusted paper thin and all sheared off including the bolt to tighten down into the plug recess as well so I looked on here for a how to guide on removing the remaining thread and managed to pick up a torx t55 head and we hammered it into the plug holes and screwed the remaining threads out....needless to say the plugs were pretty shagged, all 4 snapped with little pressure from the wrench so all needed hammering and twisting out. still a few bits of ceramic in the plug holes so needed a few cranks with the coil diss-connected to blow the broken ceramic out but some remained so went at it with a hoover to remove the rest. finally finished putting in the plugs earlier and its now developed a nasty ticking/click click click noise that increases with revolutions of the engine....now im praying that this could be the gapping on the plug or possibly highlighting other things like tappets or timing as the old plugs were so old.
I just wondered if anyone else has experienced any thing similar?
Please help :-(
Mike
engine and year details edited in for you - we only ask three times so very easily missed Read more
I think ex-TM may be on to something. Focus taper-seat plugs are 6mm longer below the seat than the Fiesta ones. What is the number on those plugs?
I'd have thought that any bits of ceramic would have been smashed to dust by now. Only a steel electrode embedded in a piston crown would have survived.
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Decades ago before number plate transfer was big business, you generally got the number you were given! - unless you were rich, famous, or had loads of "reddies" when you "could" sometimes buy a "personalised" one privately.
Billy
hi all. has anyone any idea as to why my revs are staying up. insted of staying at about 750 rpm ish they are staying up at about 1200 - 1500 rpm. i have greased / lubed the cables and the springs etc arount the throttle housing. i have checked all air pipes for cracks / splits etc etc, all seem fine. any help would be a great help.
kevin Read more
mondeo lover
It would have been a lot better to have continued your previous post. Combine high idle with hesitation and an air leak comes to the fore.
Double check the breather hose running under the coil to the back of the inlet manifold; they split and fold inwards making it near impossible to hear.
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If the glow plugs are of the correct TYPE and are working - then I would check the valve clearances. These tighten up over time and cause a loss of compression, hence bad starting.
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