January 2019
Hi all, I currently have a Mazda 6 2012 (Venture Edition) and I'm looking at changing it for something similar. I'm tempted just to go with another Mazda, but does anyone have any recommendations for alternatives? Only requirements are something spacious with a large boot. I'll likely be looking at models from 2015/2016 with mileage under 20K. Don't mind petrol or diesel although I need to educate myself a little on buying a diesel in current climate as my previous cars have been petrol. Price point would be around 10K - 15K. I only do around 10-12K miles a year, with a relatively short commute to work and not a huge amount of motorway driving. Read more
Hi all, had an issue with my rover 414i 1999 model. I drove for about an hour no issues, I parked up for 10 mins, drove for another hour no issues, parked up for half hour and then drove 2 mins around the corner, went back to the car 20 mins later and nothing, just a click....tried bumping car and nothing, tried jump leads, nothing, all lights were on and fine, moved car to safe area and decided to see if I could find a solution, went back to car after a few hours and after a click, a second of struggling it started and drove me home fine, checked it this morning and slight struggle(maybe due to cold weather) it started and has had no problems since....only thing I noticed was water tank seemed to have gone low but can see no leaks anywhere, all temps were fine but could something have over heated causing the issue? Or could something be on its way out? Just seemed strange that after a few hours of cooling it seemed fine, any help would be appreciated. Read more
I would think this is a faulty starter motor. Or more exactly most likely just the solenoid which is attached to the starter. You used to be able to buy just the solenoid and replace this with the old starter motor. If you buy a new starter motor it will contain a new solenoid.
It was my experience that the starter motor never expired it always seemed to be the solenoid but most peeps changed them both. If your looking to save cash then if you can find a solenoid they are quite easy to change. Once the starter motor is removed you should notice a smaller cylinder attached, this is the bad boy. A solenoid is another name for a relay. It will engage mechanically the spindle of the starter motor into the flywheel then apply electrical voltage to the starter motor. For this reason when this type of starter motor was introduced many years ago (1970's ?) it was called a pre-engaged starter. This was opposed to the old bendix drive starter which used the inertia of the turning starter to engage the flywheel....
With all these super power headlights around today does having a higher driving position help as it gets you above the oncoming beams? If I changed my V70 for an xc60 would it help or be a waste of cash? Read more
Hmmm - a customer review on the big south american river website isn't very complimentary.
"..unfortunately they didn't work for me....they just changed blurry white light into blurry yellow light.."...
MotorTax over here in Ireland has a warning up on their site about the same thing. Read more
Any text/e-mail that comes on your phone stating you owe money is to me is a scam, so disregard it and clear it off. I've had all of these plus phone calls threatening to cut my internet connection- My reply ?' Go ahead pal' then the phone goes down on the receiver.
Still got my internet access though.
People don't be duped, get real these scammers rely on you being stupid enough to fall for it.
I had the unfortunate experience of the front spring snapping on the offside front. Taking out the new tyre and alloy.
So after replacing the both front struts springs top mounts alloy and tyre, and costing me a weeks wages, as you can imagine I am a bit miffed. But what I wanted to ask your readers/members is... I read an article published by the AA regarding (Suspension Problems) this was talking about the front springs snapping and causing a lot of damage to your car, they also went on to say that some car manufactures had started to fit spring catchers to help/avoid this problem. So after contacting them about there article and getting nowhere I want to ask if anyone in the forum has any idea where I can obtain these items, Citroen Customer Care did not know about this problem of springs failing and did not know of any device to combat this problem, there must be hundreds if not more that this has happened to. So your forum is my last bet, hopefully someone must have heard of these or know where I can obtain them, they are just a cup that goes around the strut held together with 10 mm bolts.... Read more
I had a broken spring on a previous MOT. Garage said they usually saw a few a week due to potholes.
I have really strange problem with the indicators and hazards.
If turning indicator for left OR right, both internal lights flash, as though hazards were on, but external indicator lights do nothing. ... Read more
Hi Andy,
I have exact situation....
I managed to find some reasonably priced daylight running bulbs from xenons4u.co.uk/ which are fantastic. I found the lights were not available in the high street and not many stockists online either so hope that will be helpful for others.
I had an issue in the Peugeot manual that came with the car. In that it has conflicting advice regarding the fuse F4 for the daylight running bulb. It advises a 10amp however the diagram and indeed in the car it has pictured a 20amp. I cannot find any advice anywhere to confirm. Both daylight saving bulbs had blown in the car. Could it have been the incorrect amp or just bulbs blown over time?
Currently the new bulbs are working well. So will assume 20amps is okay however would love confirmation of anyone is able to help? Read more
Thank you,
I replaced bulbs with 24w so am content to leave the 20amp fuse in there unless you suggest otherwise now that you have done the math! I really appreciate you taking the time to reply.
Hi All,
... Read more
The new OP has a different Email address, but we still don't need another thread on this topic, which was done to death in the first thread.
Closed.
I had a breaking down on M25 last Friday night. The car ran as normal at 70 MPH till the speedometer suddenly dropped to zero and I lost power completely. At that time, the engine was still running, but no power was delivered to the wheels and I had to pull over and switched off. After that, I could not switch on the engine and had to call rescue.
The following day, I found a fuse, that is next to the engine is blown. It is #11, 'SNSR2'. I put on new fuses, and they got blown straight away. I then disconnected a few sensors and put on new fuses to determine which sensor is at fault. It turns out to be the MAF sensor. I leave it disconnected, the engine can be turn on, but runs without power, which is expected.
I clean the MAF with some Halfords electric contact cleaner and replace the air filter, but it doesn't make any difference. As soon as I connect the MAF sensor, the #11 fuse gets blown.
I tried to find information on web, but nothing seems to match the symptoms. Has anyone got similar experience or insight about the problem? Read more
I'd check the wiring to the MAF first.
MAFs do fail over time and age, but I've never known one to blow fuses....
I bought a 2nd hand Swift 3 days ago from a local dealer whose advert stated 89 point check on all cars. By the time I'd driven it home the steering wheel was failing to self centre. Today I noticed the clutch was starting to slip and smell. I dipped the oil, to find the oil level was a good 10 mm over the fill mark and the air filter hadn't been changed. The oil also smelt (in my opinion) quite strongly of petrol. After taking it to get the wheel alignment checked I found out the alignment was way off. Getting that sorted helped the steering slightly but it still wont self centre. I called the dealer who said he was at a loss as to why the steering wasn't self centring. I also spoke to his mechanic who said the same. They have asked me to bring it in on Thursday. Am I within my rights to demand a refund as this car quite plainly never underwent any inspection and chances are needs a new steering rack.
Thanks for any responses. Read more
Well RafflesNH after over two decades in this trade I know the type of trader who deals in this sort of cheaper end stock and they tend to be well versed on dodging their legal responsibilities. This one despite his or his staffs flaws did accept the car wasn’t right and refunded the OP.
I can assure you this is unusual at this end of the market and anyone buying this sort of cheap motor should buy very carefully and seek a knowledgeable person to properly check any prospective purchase thoroughly as most are sold by dodgy borderline ltd firms which simply bankrupt the trading name, reopen in a different name and dodge any court order to refund.
This has hopefully been a lesson learned for the OP, fortunately one which ended well. I’d typically recommend buying privately at this money instead of at small backstreet dealers who’ve sourced most of their stock at auction. Yes you’ve no comeback but you’ll have a far greater chance of finding a good car plus it’ll generally be cheaper too.
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If your budget were lower I’d favour the Avensis too, I own one myself. But at £10k upwards I’d be in the Mazda which is nicer to look at, better to drive and will hold its value better than an equivalent priced Avensis. The Toyota is bland but efficient, comfortable, dependable and surprisingly decent to drive but it’s a step below the big Mazda.