December 2018
What mileage does the Cam belt need changed on a 2011 Renault Kangoo 1.5 dci Read more
Having driven a manual car for 40 years I have just purchased our first automatic. Can you give me some driving technique advice please. When pulling up to a junction or lights I slow and apply foot brake, at this point if i depress the brake hard I go into "hold" however sometimes this does not happen instead the engine turns off with the stop/start feature, my foot is still on the brake. If I take my foot off the brake and reapply the brake hard the "hold" will go on but in the meantime the engine has fired up and attempted to pull off. This is frustrating and slightly dangerous, but more than anything saps the confidence of the driver. I imagine the alternative is to select neutral but this rather undermines the automatic ethos.
This question is prompted by a query in the HJ pages in the Saturday Telegraph. Do the broke lights shine when in "hold" position I assume not (i realise I can easily check!)... Read more
In stationary queues of traffic, drivers should apply the parking brake and, once the following traffic has stopped, take their foot off the footbrake to deactivate the vehicle brake lights. This will minimise glare to road users behind until the traffic moves again.
I am amazed at how easily you folks in the UK are dazzled......
Hello guys. My first time posting on this website, I’m a newbie take it easy on me lol.
I recently changed the drivers door on my 2008 mk 4 Mondeo. The change over was great and everything fitted well apart from the fact no there was no power going into the door.
Being a a novice I went ahead and changed the control Module from the old door into the new door thinking this would solve the issue but it was a no go again. I noticed the speaker was working and on the dash it shows the drivers door is open. All other doors including the drivers side rear door is working perfectly.
leaves me baffled in what exactly should I be looking at? The previous door was working fine, could there be a wire fault in the door it’s self ? I’m tempted to change the whole loom, is this a difficult job to do or would you guys recommend something else before that
any feedback would be greatly appreciated Read more
Do you have the wrong mirror from the old door? Mine has been bashed up for ages, plastic cover broken and last week the glass got broken too.
Proper scrap yards seem to want a lot for these. I'd give you £20 Inc delivery, assuming it looks and worker OK....
Hi,
I'm looking into buying a mid 90's Toyota hiace, Japanese import in excellent condition and very low milage. Have heard that parts for them are getting difficult to come by. How can this be? Werent hiace made for 30 years and the country was crawling with them? ... Read more
Body and trim panels etc, no hope at all of sourcing new, however, the majority of the actual mechanical, service and engine parts will still be available ok.
Hi Folks,
So I bought a Mazda 6 TS 2009, 2.0L diesel about 4 months ago. Everything was working fine until about a month ago, the car started losing power while driving. It wouldn't have any boost when you put the foot down on gas, and after a few seconds it would then have boost and work fine, but then when the car slows again it takes a while for the revs to build up. When the boost does kick in, sometimes there's black smoke from the exhaust.... Read more
Please Google Mazda 6 diesel and DPF issues...
Hi all, i went to change my ABS sensor, OSF, as i have 5 different lights on my dash relating to it, of course, i broke it trying to remove it. I can't pull out what remains, with thin nose pliers, theres not enough sticking out. What is the best, simple solution to removing the rest? I have the new sensor ready to fit! Cheers! Read more
If that works then good,
the sensor is shot so you can hardly make it worse....
Can anybody explain the relative merits of the di-dc engine to the the DID engine please? One is 187bhp as opposed to 197 as I understand. Read more
No full size 4x4 gets great economy, weighing over tons shaped like a brick and dragging a heavy transmission around with fat multi purpose tyres isn't going to mean good economy.
On a par with similar vintage 3.0 litre Landcruisers (Mitsi better value used), which vary around 25 mpg for general use (worse if you hammer them) and just about scraping 30mpg on a run, again if you don't thrash it, the newer the model the more chance it being better on fuel, but the more chance of it having a DPF which can soon negate any fuel savings if it gives grief....
When I drive the car, and I happen to go over a man hole (the kind which dips down and not level with the road surface) or a dipped bump in the road or a pot hole, the wheels will turn to the left or right. I then have to pull steering back to the centre.
On my other car, I can't remember have to correct the steering back to the centre. The car will go straight over the road. ... Read more
I had a simliar issue a few years ago with a newish Saab 9-5. The main dealer "examined" it and couldn't find a problem. I persisted and they put it on the ramps and the rear shocks were clearly leaking. New shocks resolved the issue. So much for their earlier examination!
Of course it may not be the shocks in this case but its worth taking it to a good mechanic who doesn't just fob you off.
I cannot say that the Sync 3 Infotainment system is up too much , in fact it's not much more use than Sync1 was. It seems that it can only load apps that ford choose to give an App link for. Also f you connect your phones Google Drive App up with a USB cable( it has Wireless and Bluetooth,but will not allow a phone to send any data that way) it stops the Bluetooth connecting. Ford also do not as of yet supply an Applink for a TomTom Go Car app on my Smartphone. Honestly it would have been better to abdone Sync and fit an Android notepad, as it least it has connectability and could run apps.This car was not cheap and I am very disappointed in the infotainment system, which I consider old fashioned and not up to modern technological standards. Read more
Mine works very well and Fords Sync 3 generally seems pretty well rated against its peers. If infotainment systems are that important perhaps you should have looked at them in more depth before buying.
Hi guys, i want some advice to buy a petrol car, at least from 2011.
Budget: 8000-8500E... Read more
Weakness on the VAG models you’ve shortlisted is the fear of landing one of the earlier chain driven motors. You want a post 2014 to get the much more reliable belt driven engine but you need to check that you are getting the later engine. I’d get the reg no and engine no and call the local main dealer service dept to verify before buying. Don’t let anyone tell you they’re fine, they’re not. Chain failure it highly likely and the engine is scrap if it does. That said the Octavia is an excellent big family hatch but you’ll probably need more money to get a good belt drive TSi.
I’d personally be looking at a Mazda 6 2.0 Skyactiv which is an excellent drive and should prove utterly reliable. You’ll need at least £9k to get a decent 63 plate with sensible miles.
www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20181011141...4
A Ford Mondeo 1.6 Ecoboost is another worthy. Excellent to drive and loads of space plus the Yamaha designed motor rarely goes wrong. It’ll lose value quickly though.
Auto Trader:
www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20180922077...3
The Toyota Avensis 1.8 is pretty bulletproof too but it’s not as entertaining to drive as any of the above and a bit slow compared to the turbocharged options here. It’ll run forever with regular servicing though but I’d go for the estate which is much more practical and far easier to sell on. I have a 60 plate one of these and it’s an excellent big family workhorse and surprisingly economical.
Auto Trader:
www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/20181110230...6
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150000K or 72 months.
And as I've had one in with a seized coolant pump that all but stripped the teeth from the belt I would err on the side of caution.