January 2017

Lucy Nicole Rogers

Hi, I am buying a car soon with a 2k budget. My new job will involve commuting 60 miles a day 5 days a week. What is the cheapest car to buy? For low running costs, reliability on the motorway and cheap tax and insurance.

Any advice will help?

So far I am looking at the Peugeot 207 SE, 2006 model
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SLO76

Firstly despite the mileage you intend on covering I'd rule out a diesel at this price range, especially any Peugeot with the now notorious 1.6 HDi. They're much more complex and far more likely to go wrong in the first place not to mention the fact that it would have a higher mileage and generally be an older car for your money than the equivalent petrol. Any fuel saving would be wiped out through the almost guaranteed higher repair costs.

The 207 was a dated design even when new, using ancient petrol engines that are quite reliable but aren't great on fuel and lack performance. They're prone to trim and electrical faults and require a timing belt, tensioners and water pump at 10yrs so budget £250- £300 if it's not been done. Do not buy the 1.6 diesel but the older 1.4 can be ok. Petrol is the safest bet though.

But since you're looking for reliability and economy over all else I'd be looking mostly at Japanese products such as the Suzuki Swift 1.3, Toyota Yaris 1.3, Toyota Corolla 1.4 and Nissan Micra 1.2/1.4 all of which are very robust if they've been correctly maintained. Best for comfort on the motorway would be the Corolla and it's also the best built and most reliable but it's certainly no looker and will use a little more fuel than the smaller Yaris/Swift and Micra.

The Micra is particularly cheap and you'll get more for your money thanks to its quirky looks not appealing to the boy racer brigade but there's a lot of neglected Micra's about and they're known for stretching timing chains if not serviced regularly so don't touch one without a full service history with proof of oil changes every year. But they're pleasant to drive and cheap enough for parts because there's so many of them and don't need a timing belt change so this saves money.

The Swift is a hoot to drive and hard to kill. They're small and a bit noisy at speed but they last well and are cheap to run and again don't have a timing belt to worry about. Avoid at all costs the Fiat Diesel engine.

The Yaris is spacious and a bit more comfortable than the Swift but not as much fun. Chain driven again and pretty tough, good on fuel too but a little tall and top heavy so gets buffeted a bit on the motorway in crosswinds. Check clutches carefully as a lot of elderly drivers and first time drivers buy them.

A MK V Fiesta with the Yamaha designed 1.2 16v petrol is a good bet too and the best of the lot to drive but they're not brilliant on fuel and again need a timing belt at 8yrs so make sure it's done or knock the price down by £250-£300 to have it fitted.

No matter what you buy, look for a good, preferably full service history, longterm previous ownership (if they've only had it a year or less it's likely to be a lemon so look for 3yrs plus) and check for misaligned panels and bodged paintwork repairs that're common to backstreet dealers.

Mark Gilbert

I have a ford Fiesta Flight on a 51 plate. The heater is only blowing cold air. I have checked the coolant level and this is on Max and also flushed out the heater matrix. As the pipes were cold after the heater control value and hot before it, I replaced the heater control valve. but the heater is still blowing cold air, and the pipes are the same cold on one side hot on the other. Has anyone come across this before. I don't want to replace the heater control panel unless I need to, is there a way of checking this is faulty before replacing this (I have a multi meter), or could it be something else?

Thanks in advance Read more

khcomp

Sounds like the matrix is blocked or there's an air lock in the system: Have you flushed the heater matrix through in both directions and for a good few minutes?

Doc

I have just bought two new tyres and was surprised to find the tread depth to be just under 7mm. I thought that new tyres were generally at least 8mm.

The tyres were not 'budget' but the same as the original fit: Kumho Solus KH17 165/60 R14 T (75)... Read more

RobJP

Put a driver of today on a set of those Michelins from the 70's on a damp road and they would die....

Robert Deica

Hello. Can you please tell me the code for my fiesta with serial number M 440544.Thanks Read more

Robert Deica

Thanks Mr John. It's working.

oldroverboy.

www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4101738/Should-go...l Read more

John Boy

... Flat cap, piddling along, oldman car had me on the lookout!

Memo to self: Must get a different hat!

MikeM100

Fuel station forecourt air lines are now literally - a 'wheeze' ! In the olden days somewhere there used to be a compressor and an air tank reservoir. Inflating flat tyres just took moments.

Most forecourts now use 'Pay As You Go' coin operated air lines that typically cost at least 50p for a miserly four minutes or so.... Read more

barney100

I always inflate the tyres at home with my trusty foot pump or the electric one that came with the last car.

nick noble

I have an old focus and hadn't driven it for quite some time until my other car decided to die on me. All the lights did work, and now the tail and side lights don't work. They work OK if I turn the lights to park, but when driving if I switch on the lights nothing at all from any of them, the dipped and full beam headlights are ok, front and rear fogs are ok, as are the brakes and indicators.

I've checked the fuses (every one in both fuse boxes) and all are ok.

Anyone have any thoughts on causes or solutions? Read more

khcomp

My wiring diagram suggests that there's a different feed for the parking lights to that for the sidelights (you'll notice that the instrument lighting doesn't come on with the parking lights). I'd double check the switch, and also the fuses: Autodata suggests that fuse 30 in the dashboard fusebox supplies sidelight power to terminal 11 on the light switch. This supplies power to the sidelights via terminal 13 on the switch in the sidelight or headlight 'on' position.

However, the actual fusebox picture on Autodata gives different fuse numbers: fuses 32 & 61 are shown as supplying power to the light switch, so you may have to refer to the fuse listing on your car.

oldroverboy.

www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4100220/Class-act...l Read more

SLO76

"I thought you could turn it off in the menu, you can in the Civic, I have as I never use it, just means pressing a button when you start up to cancel"

Yes you can disable it or just keep your foot on the clutch when you think it's inappropriate for it to switch the engine off. I do let the system operate in traffic when driving locally.

KingRat999

Well I knew most of them but certainly not the last! (Tyre pressure) Read more

KingRat999

Thanks Polar590 for your apology. I must admit I was a bit annoyed at your (first) reply but decided to hold on to my thoughts raging through my mind. And low and behold, you apologised. Thank you very much, and of course, apology accepted! :)

m5rcc

Why is there legal action at all? No damage has been suffered. The car continues to run normally, just as it did before news of the defeat device broke. No additional tax or restriction on the use of the vehicle is incurred. The ECU patch offered does not to be accepted. Read more

Common faults with be vehicles should be recalls??? EGR VALVE MY 1.6tdi CADDY FUEL INJECTORS??
What are they getting away with selling not fit for use vehicles