September 2010
Hello all. I'm looking to replace my almera (the rust finally got it). I'm very tall, and find the focus c-max very comfortable in terms of driving position. It's likely that I'll go for one -- the boot space is handy -- budget up to 4500 for the right vehicle.
Your buying advice is very welcome. I've only done about 6000 mile/year over the last 3 years, so am unlikely to get a diesel unless persuaded otherwise. But I'd be interested to hear diesel feedback.... Read more
hello all. i have a fiesta td, 2001 (y) there is not hot air into the car from the blower. and im at a loss here.
i have changed the heater control vale for a new one, changed the board behind the heater control dial,. flushed out the system and displaced any air. checked the one under the glove box, tested the power supply for the correct currant and looked for the pulse in the currant 0-14. still no luck. did at first think heater control valve as hot water was reaching there but not out the other side but this had no change.... Read more
hi there how did u change the pump cause i have a fiesta 1.8td and its being quite a b***** to gt the pump in with the tension wheel do you have any advise please many thanks
Hello, does anyone know roughly how much I should be expecting to pay for a full service on this car?
A local recommended independent garage (on a garage recommendation website) is quoting around £250, of which roughly £100 is labour. The rest is parts.... Read more
I used to use Rapid fits for my Fords - attached to dealerships, Ford technicians, much cheaper prices and while you wait.
My wife's 2000 (W) Punto has had a problem with the power steering over the last couple of years. The power steering light wouldn't go out on start up and PAS wouldn't work, very typical of Puntos of similar age.
To begin with it happened occasionally, for short periods, then started becoming more frequent, for longer periods, and more recently has been more off than on, only working infrequently. When it works, it works fine.... Read more
Hello, is the steering still working? I have the same problem on my car, can you give more details of how you carried out the repair please? Thanks
Mid April 2010 my Son in Law's Scenic had no power and was taken to a Renault Dealer who diagnosed a damaged and jammed Turbo. He was quoted £1350 to repair it.
II suggested we try to get a re-con one with a guarantee. We managed to get one for a delivered price of £332.53. My Son in Law had to pay the renault garage in the region of £300.00 for having stripped parts to obtain access to the turbo.... Read more
Hi madf,
I have today contacted another Turbo supplier and he has said "This Particular Renault Engine is a Problematic One having lots of problems with carbon build up and he reckons the original one will have jammed with carbon build up."...
Hi. Im struggling to find the source of a water leak. Please bear with me and i'll try and give as much info as poss.
Water is getting into the drivers side footwell and it seems to be coming from the area where the accelerator pedal is. Ive read other posts and they've mentioned behind the door card, however, thats bone dry and also the carpet directly underneath the door is dry too.... Read more
Hi....I have a late 2002 320ci and this problem is driving me mad. Whenever it rains heavily the drivers footwell get soaked. I have had to cut the carpet all round (which I was so disappointed to have to do but had no choice). I am no nearer to finding the problem but it is coming in from behind the pedals. I do not have a sunroof. I have read it could be the drainage points under the bonet, but I don't know what I am looking for to be honest. I have checked the windscreen and surrounding areas but still nothing. I was interested to read about water by the bonet release handle, I do have some droplets resting on the handle area. Hopefully we can all find a solution to our problem. I will keep an eye open for any further ideas and or suggestions. Many thanks for the suggestions I have read already
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hi,
i have a 1998 mondeo diesel, it has been very reliable and has covered 126000 miles. recently it has developed a loud knocking/clattering noise from the engine when starting from cold . when i press the accelerator there is no response for about a second and then the engine will run as normal. when coming off the revs and when it settles into tickover the knocking will come back, but as the engine warms up the noise will gradually quieten down and disappear. the car will then run fine throughout the day, and when left for a few hours will continue to start and run fine with no problems. the knocking only happens when left for several hours, or overnight.... Read more
Dont think its anything to do with little ends, my old cab which i sold to another cabbie started to have exactly the same symptoms, turned out to be worn injectors. He whined like a broken vacuum cleaner about having to buy new ones but now it runs like it did when bought it at 9k, it now has 240k have a leak back test
I have to replace the battery in my sister-in-law's car, and as she does only short runs and the battery has died twice already, the RAC advised her to get a new one.
Can anyone tell me which original make/model of battery is installed in a 2005 BMW 320 Petrol Saloon?... Read more
I have just replaced the battery on my E39 tds and used a Varta 110ah which I got from ebay. What you need to compare is the Ah capacity and length of guarantee, the 'goodness' and capacity of a battery can be gauged by its weight - the more lead the higher capacity and longer life, this is really the critera for comparing prices.
I don't know if BMW use calcium batteries as they are a different ball game.
Hi, my mother in laws C3 has just snapped its drivers side coil spring. After trawling the net I have vound numerous complaints about this. Are they really that common in breaking? Also is it easy to replace or should it go to a garage, as obviously I will need a coil compression tool to compress the spring during fitting.
michael... Read more
my daughter had a front spring break in jan this year(2012) on her 04 pluriel fortunately she was going very slowly so it just dropped .phoned up citroen garage after reading of recall on 02 reg C3s but they said it wasnt included. On a chance I phoned up citroen cusomer services and as soon as i mentioned the fault they said (without any argument) they would pay for it which they did! and replaced Both sides springs, leg, abs wires and a new tyre as a precaution so they must know of a continuing fault past 02 and on pluriels as well. unfortunately tonight (march 12 )a rear spring has just snapped while in the driveway i dont think i will be as lucky this time.
My 53 plate Vauxhall Zafira will not start. The engine turns over but it will just not kick into life.I a rranged for local vauxhall garage to check the car and they reported the following faults P0335 and P0340 advising they suspected a fault ewith tthe high pressure diesel pump. They then said it would £2.9k to replace pump (with a reconditioned one!). I had read that these faults could relate to a crankshaft sensor? Ho much would this cost and how easy is this to replace - any help would be greatly apprecaited. I am reluctant to spend nearly £3k on a car that is probably only worth that especially as the vauxhall dealer could not gaurantee this would fix the fault.
P0335 is the code for the engine RPM sensor and P0340 is the code for the Camshaft sensor. If both of these signals are not received the engine will not start because the ECU does not know the engine turning. So assuming there is nothing mechanical at fault such as a broken cambelt the obvious place to start looking is the crankshaft sensor. The easiest way to test it is by using the scantool you presumabley used to extract the fault codes. Select Live Data and look at Engine Speed. Crank the engine and the speed should be displayed. If it isn't and shows zero that'll be your problem. It's an inductive sensor on these and you check it be measuring its resistance which should typically be between 150 & 1500 ohms. Then check the sensor by measuring its voltage output which should be at least 0.5 volts AC on cranking. Remember to check that using AC volts, not DC volts. If your sensor measures outside of these values it needs to be replaced.....
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I've been running a C-Max 1.6 Zetec petrol with the more powerful Ti-VCT 115 engine for about 4 years/50,000 miles. The petrol C-Max's are extremely reliable and cheap to maintain. I get 37+ mpg per the trip computer on running around, low forties on a run. Exactly the same MPG as the 1.6 Scenic I ran before, but the C-Max handling is in a different league and it's a much sweeter engine too. Tyres last about 24k per set, the rears are about 90% worn when the fronts are shot so I just replace all 4 anyway. Like others, I experience odd rattles come and go, but generally the build is good and the new C-Max will certainly be on my shortlist when it comes up for replacement. I'm usually driving 2 up, when I've never been short of performance. Fully loaded including roof box it's still adequate, you just need to drive it harder with a few more revs.