April 2010
Hi there, I have narrowed my car search down to a Focus 1.6 TDCi hatch or estate of around the 2005/early 2006 vintage. My question is whether to go for a 90 bhp model or a 110 bhp one (one without the DPF if I can).
Is the 110 bhp model a step increase in drivability over the 90 bhp or is there not much in it? The car will be used as a general family second car doing shortish runs (8 to 20 miles) with the odd longer run (200 miles).... Read more
Apologies if this has posted twice unsure if first attempt was successful.
After driving for about 15 miles my car develops a squealing noise, this gradually gets worse as you continue. When I break or hit a bump it briefly disappears, or if I make a tight\3 point turn it can disappear.... Read more
Thought I would provide an update.
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I do my own repairs where possible but have had to pay for tracking 3 times this year, Its so easy to adjust but how do you check it without expensive laser equipment, I could save plenty if there is a way, Does someon know a DIY way to do this, even if it is a bit of a mess about I want to have a go, Please if you know how post it for me, Pleeeease. Read more
I've seen a method using two sections of a ladder. You need to make sure ladders are 'true'.
Lean a section of ladder against the top of the tyre, thus avoiding the bulge at the bottom, making sure it's in good contact at the front and rear of the tyre, with the majority of the ladder in front of the car. Do the same on the other side....
My car leaks engine coolant and a garage has told me the thermostat housing needs replacing. I've heard its a common problem on the focus. Cost is £163 (£105 is for the part, rest is labour and antifreeze). Seems expensive to me but this price is also quoted by other garages. Should I get the work done or is there a way of preventing the leak? Read more
Yes it was done. £140. Garage said it was the "rubber seal ring?" (or something like that) that was worn but the whole unit had to be replaced. Supposed to be a common problem on the focus mk1.
Can anyone give me advice / tips on what to look for when buying the above vehicle please?
Are there any good resason not to go for the Tiptronic box for instance and is this engine configuration reliable? Read more
Bit strange that formatting, try this;
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Hi.
Can anyone tell me, if it is normal for my car (which has done 91000 miles) to use some oil? I am having to top it up (a couple of egg cups full) every month. There are no leaks, the water container is not contaminated and the oil itself is not milky from the dip stick. There is no blue smoke from the exhaust, so where is it all going?... Read more
Apologies - about about halfway through, I started referring to the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve as the psv valve. Maybe the mods are able to correct this.
Hi all
Hoping for some advice, My car has average mileage at 40K, and the other morning as i finished my journey I noticed a whirring sound coming from the engine all of a sudden, not loud, but constant and reminds me of a hoover! Anyway I thought nothing of it untill i used the car later the same day, after driving 20 yards the battery light came on (the whirring is still present) There is no loss of power, or any other fault to note. I took it straight to a local garage, and they checked the battery voltage, at 12. something, as i was in car revving it, i couldnt really hear the whole conversation the mechanical was having with his colleague, but he also tested the alternator using what looked like a metal probe attached to a stethoscope :-) I do not know the voltage. His diagnosis was that the alternator was going. £144 for a new one, plus 1 and a half hr labour. Its booked in next week but of course since then ive been doing the dreaded googling and worrying myself, Ive ashamedly been ripped off a few times before, and am pretty unlucky with cars. Any aternative advice, or reasurrance much appreciated on this topic. Could it be the battery? the belt? is the whirring linked to the alternater? Also the battery light comes on and off. ... Read more
Have a look on ebay
I have a 2001 Almera 1.5 and a couple of weeks ago my car started hesitating (shuddering, jerking) and a few days later the diagnostic light came on. I forked out £60 for the local garage to read the code, it took them 2 minutes and the code was P0300 (Multi Cyl Misfire).
The mechanic said I needed to change all my ignition coils to solve the problem. So i purchased four new coils, and got them changed. However the problem still persisted, infact it may have even gotten worse as now the shuddering still happens and moreover, today I noticed the rev meter bouncing up and down whilst the car is stationary and in neutral.
I'd appreciate any advice. I don't mind spending money, but am slightly annoyed with the mechanic as he made me spend money on the coils for no reason. Read more
I had the exact same issue, turned out to be a loose sensor connected to the air filter. Simply unplugged the sensor gave it a clean and plugged it back in, the EM light disappeared and now seems to work fine. Hope it helps.Any more info on this sensor?
Does anyone know if it is possible to disable the EGR valve on a Ford Transit MK7 without bringing on the MIL light?
I know how to do this on a MK5 and a MK6, but the MK7 seems more difficult. I understand why the valve is there, but they do seem fault prone and it would be nice to be able to avoid all the problems that they seem to cause. Read more
i know this is from 2010 i just though i would add to it. i had a transit 2.2 130ps that was having egr problems it would actuate under light boost which caused a little missfire i put a blanking plate on it with a 8mm hole in the centre this cured the missfire and black smoke plus the eml light didnt come on as if you dont drill a hole in it the ecu will throw a fault this doesnt solve the egr problem entirly just slows the recirculation down and stops the nasty build up inside the egr housing on the intake used 1.4mm aluminum cheaper than 120 quid untill it packs in completly and causes a non starter if you have the solenoid type not the vacuum. just a post to help those who havent come accross this before.
I have been getting the car/spanner warning light when starting from cold. It stays lit for up to half a mile and then goes out. The car has also been taking longer to start. I've managed to get hold of an Op-Com diagnostics kit and the following is recorded :
Total number of fault codes: 1
P0380 - Glow Plug Circuit
(0B) - Not present... Read more
When I did this job on our old Scenic 1.9dCi, another glowplug installation known for snapping the plugs on removal, I was advised to do it with the engine warm. I did, and had no problems. It is proper heart in mouth stuff applying the initial torque to crack them loose, but take your time, and you shouldn't have any problems.
Good luck!...
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Well now you tell me, about a year too late. At least it doesn't have a dpf!
So apart from the potential oil starvation causing dead turbos, DMF problems, leaky injectors... anything else I should be worried about?...