May 2009
My Almera's lower front crossmember is gradually going the same way as many a Micra crossmember. There's a couple of small (1cm ) holes rusted in it, and one of the drainage holes has gradually been rotting away. The latter is now a ragged hole of about 6 or 7 cm in max diameter, and the surrounding metal is very weak.
Questions:
How bad does is have to be before it goes from pass to advisory to fail? I went through my last MOT fine, though the hole was smaller (about 3 or 4 cm). I've also used underseal on the crossmember to try to slow things.
What are the merits and costs of reconditioning it? I assume this would be by welding a plate over the damaged area. How much would this be for labour?
What about having the crossmember cut out and replaced? Anyone have an idea of how much a new crossmember would cost, and an idea of labour time?
Finally, would it make sense to have the entire front panel replaced? I can find this as a pattern part for about £65 quid. Or does the labour involved mount up dramatically?
Many thanks for reading this.
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I have just bought myself an 02 325i Touring. Checking the plate inside the door it advises 2.3 bar on the front and 2.8 on the rear. When this converts to PSI it seems an awful lot compared to any other car I have had. Now whilst I'm sure that they know what they talking about, can anybody advise if this usual for BMW/e46 s or is it because its the Touring ?
PS I had to put a lot of air in the rears especially.
Many thanks
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The definitive answer will be in the Owners Guide.
I posted a while back that my engine sounds a bit tappety. I had soem spare time today so began to have a good look down the oil filler and I could see quite a lot of sludge on the engine block wall, the camshaft area looks ok but there was a bit of sludge on one of the of camshaft bolts.
I am suspecting this sludge is blocking a yet or something or just stopping the oil from properly reaching the tappets so it does need removing. However what is the best way of removing this? I have always been warned against engine flushes but in this case is it the best cause of action? Should I just get another oil change done (as suggested once on here).
Oil was changed 480 miles ago but I suspect before that it had done 15k without a change. Read more
I am suspecting this sludge is blocking a yet >>
Oil was changed 480 miles ago but I suspect before that it had done 15k without a change >>
IMO, your engine could have suffered some serious real damage. I think you should get a new engine fitted before you go on your long journey to the wild frontier. ;-)
Doing a few routine service items on the old Corsa. Easy access to everything so far.
But the fuel filter is something which appears to be a little different. I guess it is under the fuel tank somewhere- is it easy to reach?
Haynes says to depressurise the fuel system by dismantling the front parcel shelf , removing door seals etc etc. before removing a relay. Is this absolutely necessary and would not the relay be powered down by disconnecting the battery?
All comments welcome.
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Think I'll quit while I'm ahead with step sons banger. Plugs, air cleaner, oil and filter done. Access is superb to all these items- unlike my last VW.
I'd to ram a screwdriver through the oil filter ,twice, to remove it. A tip I think I remembered from Practical Motorist back in the '60s. The new Mahle filter went on using my BMW bike tool a spare BMW sump washer also went on. I now claim we have a BMW - Vauxhall hybrid.
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868158 Read more
A Bugatti 4 door saloon - a quick Google reveals it may have been a type 49. No idea how much this is worth as websites all state POA which suggests if you have to ask you can't afford it!
Driving through Stuttgart yesterday I overtook a driving school car. Nothing unusual in that except it was a Mercedes CL500 complete with the driving school sign on the roof, stickers on the doors, and all the little additional mirrors that commonly adorn driving school cars. I've no idea whether it had dual controls or not, but it certainly puts the Fiesta 1.1L that I learned to drive in to shame. Anyone top that? Read more
HUGE discounts, my dad's an instructor and has recently bought a new Corsa diesel when he knew the new fiesta was coming out i think he's missing out on an extra 12mpg or so which with the miles he covers would be paid in about a month for the extra outlay on the comfortable, practical non-annoying indicatored fiesta...(my mum has his old fiesta mk6 and i actually want that with it's 90k miles on it more then his shiny Corsa and he's confused as to why.)
Nicest i've seen was a 1st lotus driving school elise :)
Hi all, need some advice.
I brought a secondhand rx8 from a mazda dealer under their ZZ scheme last feb. (34, 000 miles, full serv hist, 192 bhp)
Essentially in Aug 08 the engine warning light flashes up on the dashboard and local dealer diagnoses lambda/oxygen sensor fault and replaces it for free under my 1 year extended warranty.
In Jan 09, same story again, another dealer replaces another oxygen sensor for free.
In May 09, guess what??? Yes you guessed it!! Another dealer diagnoses oxygen sensor fault, the warranty has expired so they want to bill me £350 for sensor plus labour plus VAT!!
So this is my scenario, I have a few questions about what I should do.....
a) I have confirmed by speaking to all 3 garages that the same pre catalytic sensor has failed 3 times in 10 motnhs...why??, mileage has been no more than 11,000 miles in that time??
b) yes i do drive the car enthusiasticly but only when warm, is this normal?
c) why is my mazda dealer saying to me that anything repaired under their extended warranty scheme carries no warranty what so ever and that that when the warranty expires i am liable for full costs, is that fair or nonesense?
d) should i expect an offering from mazda, i.e. push for whole payment or partial or are they likely to shaft me!
Any ideas would be most appreaciated!!!! Read more
Thank you-both N_C and mjm.
hi i was really hoping somebody can help me out here, im busy restoring my 205 1.9 gti 1988 model. i currently banned form driving so its my project, i have bean strating it up and letting her run for about 10 mins a day, but one i ran out of fuel, i filled up my petrol can before i put it in the tank i was doing a bit engine clean up making all the metals shine again, i had the fuel rail off ect. and clean it up with a wire brush, any way i put my petrol in the tank and started it up the car was ideling at 2000 rpm and eventually dropped to normal and started missing hugely when i rev it it wont go past 4000rpm and when it hits 4000 it misses hugely and you can hear popping in the exhaust and it stinks which leads me to belive its over fueling ive checked the spark and they seem to be working fine. also i should say that since this is happening my fuel pump has gone mega loud i thought it was starving of fuel but i dont no any more..... please help, thanks. lee
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oil or water i mean sorry
Just bought a 1.5D XN, 78,000 miles. Seems in good order, but it does make a strange whistling noise as you rise through the revs. Took it to a garage on the test drive who reckoned it was just the induction. Not sure about that.
Weirdly it sounds like an out-of-sorts turbo, which it can't be because there isn't one. Standing over the engine and revving it, the sound seems to be coming from the left side, so maybe it's belt connected. Perhaps something to do with the alternator belt.
Anyway, any thoughts gratefully appreciated! Read more
Hi again.
Re the water pump removal, we tried everything and could not get it to move even a thou. It had obviously been in from new and was welded in. it came out in bits....
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Another recommendation for Panasonic here. Our whole family are long-time users. Occasionally on special offer at larger Tescos.
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Thanks very much for this link. I've now posted pics of the xmember in their forum, to ask for opinion. It seems to be that it's at the advisory stage, not so far gone as to fail.
If I can, I'll have it patched, given the age and value of the car.