May 2009

timpea

Hi,

I have had my Vivaro stall when i have been driving 3 times now, all 3 times it has been after 30 min of driving, the engine has stalled, I have been able to start it again straight away, drive for another 50metres(ish) and it will stall again. Then if i try to start the engine it just turns over on the starter.

When i leave the van for 1 - 2hours, come back and it starts again and runs with no problems.

The EML light is on, and i bought a opcom usb cable/software off ebay and it gave me the dtc of :p1804, I can't find any reference of this code to a Vivaro, does anyone have any ideas what the problem could be, or what the error code is?

Thanks
Tim Pearson Read more

DW electrics

It's here all u renault traffic, Vaughan van drivers.

The answer 2 the unsolved mystery....

L'escargot

I've just checked my speedometer against a police trailer at the side of the road which flashed up what it thought my speed was. My speedometer said 40 and the trailer said 36. Is it likely that the error of +11% will apply at all speeds, or will the percentage error vary throughout the speed range? Read more

Driver59

As far as I understand it, the Speedometer and Odometer in my car are both driven by the same rotating cable. This means that if the Speedometer is overestimating by +10% (actually allowed to be between 100% - 110% +6mph under uk regs), the Odometer will also increment by +10%. That is, for every 1000 miles travelled, the Odometer will increment by 1100 miles. This seems to be somewhat unfair in terms of the resale value of my car. This deliberate over estimation is also in the interests of manufacturers, as it will allow them to claim better mpg figures than is actually the case. Whilst appreciating the safety aspects of not under displaying actual vehicle speed, I would think that it should be possible for Speedometers to be accurate to within +2 or 3 mph. Out of interest, I have found that the Speedometer in my Dodge Caliber (manufactured under u.s. regulations) to be far more accurate. Come on Europe, time to catch up.

DP

I was called upon to change a dipped beam bulb in the in-laws 05 plate V50 2.0d at the weekend.

A first glance showed a typical modern, cramped underbonnet layout, with access to the back of the light unit requiring a triple jointed wrist, and then there being no room to remove the back cover of the headlight due to the proximity of the fusebox and a section of wiring loom with no slack whatsoever.

Then I spotted the metal pin. Jiggle it free and pull it upwards. Slide the complete headlamp unit forwards by 6", pop cover off, change bulb and refit cover with all the room in the world, slide headlamp back, slide pin back. Job done. 2 minutes.

What a fabulous piece of design. What are the other manufacturers' excuses for not doing this?

Cheers
DP
Read more

apm

Facelift S60 is actually not too bad. I did both headlights on ours in 25 mins.

Important to remember that you have to locate the bulb and THEN plug it in. Plug it in first and it won't fit.

That was the first 10 minutes of the 25. :-(

marc1

Hello,
please can anyone tell me how i can change my rear fog lamp lens, i have a crack in the presnt one drivers side rear, the lens is in the middle of the plastic bumper, it is not situated at the bottom of the bumper, the car is a 2002 model, i have looked at every way of getting the old one out but cannot see how you do this, i have purchased a new lens and am trying to change it before mot comes up!!!!!
Hoping someone may be able to help out there, thanks ann12

No need to SHOUT! Read more

Victorbox

Guide here could have been written by Topbloke! tinyurl.com/odae6y
Typically the 4 fasteners inside the boot are star type not normal bolts so you'll need some with the correct tips before you start.

Xtype

What tyres can I put on the rear of my Jaguar Xtype 2.0D? I spoke to the Jag garage and they said I can only put Pirelli 6000J ' s on which are only suitable for Jaguar (they have a J in the code specfic to this model).
I then spoke to the local ATS and they said they can put Dunlop All Seasons on (£175 for 2 fitted).

Can anyone advise what I can put on and also a good price to pay? Is £175 good? After having a company car for so long Im a bit out of touch with tyre prices.

Thanks in advance.

Tyres currently on the car Pirreli 205/55/R16 V.
Reason to change - both rear tyres are on the limit. Read more

Kevin

I had four new tyres fitted on my XJ about three months ago (at Micheldever).

They recommended sticking with the P6000 if I didn't want to compromise ride quality.

My only complaint with the P6000 is the noise. On smooth tarmac they are fine but on roads with stone chippings the noise is noticeable.

I think they were just under £100 per corner all-in, 225/55-16.

Kevin...

diddy1234

I was just wondering what the best / worst automatic car was that anyone has owned / drove (recent or in the past).

although a bit before my time, I did hear that the mini was an economical car in autobox form (I could be wrong but this is what I heard).

I have heard that a 1.6L mark 4 Cortina automatic was a terrible car.
very underpowered and drank fuel.

So are there any better / worse ones ?

Read more

Kiwi Gary

I had a good run over some 7 years with Mini 1000 auto as far as the gearbox went. [ It ate free-end engine mounts though ]. Since then, I have had 20 years of [pre-Renault ] 2.6 and 3.0 l Nissans which behaved faultlessly. Whilst working in Australia, my company runabouts were 3.8 and 4.0 l Fords with auto boxes. The 1990 version used to "sing" at 40 mph, and cheerfully shuttle the gears. Real pest, and , as it was brand new, I took it back to main dealer to express displeasure. They said , "Dunno", and referred it back to Ford head office. Ford said, "Yes, we know. It is the hydraulic valves shuttling at high speed. Nothing can be done about it except to avoid that speed". They removed the problem in later models.

oOo Kris

My S reg 1998 1.4 VW polo cl started over heating last week out the blue never overheated before this

I emptied the whole coolant system this weekend and refilled on a hill as not to get any air lock in the system but after leaving it for a while on idle noticed the fan is not cutting in checked fuses all good (doesnt overheat at this point) after idling it high (2500 - 3000)revs with the heater on hot the temp got up to a steady 90 degrees but still not fan cutting in and still not overheating

I then took it for a road test and found that the heater warmed up fine and still didnt over heat got back home lifted the bonnet to check radiator fan cutting in which it wasnt and it overheated again. I checked the top hose which was very hot and bottom hose was still cold and the radiator was stone cold also. the next day i cheked to see if it was the thermostat but there didnt seem to be one and ive have had the car since october and no probs so far though

I would appreiciate any ideas as i am getting withdrawls from driving my baby lol, i think it could be the water pump but didnt want to change it if there could of been another simple reason

Many thanks

Kris

P.S How do you change window wipers on a Audi A4 cab......they are stuck on tight

{kicks across to Technical Matters - you might want to ask about the Audi in another question} Read more

oOo Kris

checked the thermostat last night guys, happen to be a small part of the internal part of the thermostat housing had broken inside. I found it by following the bottom radiator pipe to up to the engine. i have bought a new themostat and housing and will fit it tonight to let you know how i get on. I did check coolant bubbling with the cap off from the top small pipe and it was so guess the water pump is fine ( fingers crossed lol ) will check back in tomorow guys

Thanks again for all the help and advise.

Kris

John F

We are venturing north-west, passing Birmingham on Wednesday morning at 9am-ish. In these depths of recession I assume that our motorway blackspots are now completely without hold-ups allowing unimpeded 70mph progress, just like forty years ago. I rarely travel on the M6 so would appreciate advice as to whether it is worth investing the price of a passable bottle of wine for what must be now a very quiet road? Read more

Mapmaker

I am intrigued by all these fans who state how much time it saves.

I have never used it (save for an early use when it was only a couple of pounds, just "for fun").

I have never been held up on the M6 since the toll opened. Admittely I do not use the M6 during weekday rush hour.

L'escargot

So why did the car battery earthing convention change from positive to negative earth? Read more

OldSock

From an electronics point of view, virtually all modern semiconductors operate with a positive supply and negative 'ground'. Attempting to fit these systems in a +ve earth vehicle would be almost impossible.

The earliest 'solid state' transistor radios employed germanium-based transistors, which operated with a negative supply and positve ground - presenting no problems with the +ve earth vehicles of the period. The move to silicon-based transistors - which require a +ve supply and negative ground - naturally suited negative earth cars.

ElanPlus2

Hi there

I'm new to this forum and found it while searching for other people's experiences with leaking Eolys bags.

Recently I noted that there were what looked like oil stains on our driveway, I thought they came from the old Volvos of my brother and father in law... This weekend I noticed that there was a fresh 10 cm puddle under the righthand side rear wheel of my wife's 207 Hdi. Peering under the car I noticed that the fluid came from the plastic casing of the Eolys container.

We took the car to the dealer and when a mechanic opened the plastic casing the Eolys fluid just poured out on the workshop floor. The car has done just over 40000 km and there is no visible damage to the plastic casing. The Eolys bag is out of stock and they don't know when they can recieve a new one.

My questions to you experts are:
1) Have you ever heard of an Eolys bag springing a leak?
2) At 80000 km when you need to fill up with new Eolys, do you reuse the bag or does the fluid come in a new bag that is just hooked up? In other words, is the bag supposed to last the life time of the car?

The reason for my questions is that this is a Swedish car and in Sweden cars are sold with a 24 month warranty, our car is of course 27 months by now... On the other hand Swedish consumer law states that there is a 36 month warranty for manufacturing related faults. I think it is very likely that there was some sore of problem when the bag was manufactured or installed on the production line, but so far the dealer has only said they will look into it.

Thanks in advance,
Pär-Olof Håkansson
Malmö, Sweden
Read more

fbc

An aftermarket product called PatFluid is now being sold by any member of the UK parts alliance see www.ukpa.net/webforms/386292.htm

Its a direct equivalent, but cheaper.



The UKPA have a nationwide network of branches and specialise in aftermarket parts, spares and advice



Call for first hand advice 01244 391457