May 2009
Hi folks,
My 6 wouldn't start this morning - it nearly fired up the first time and went rapdily downhill after <6 attempts. I now get virtually no response at all, except for some of the dials sweeping.
When a similar thing happened to my Focus it turned out to be a duff battery - I've just checked the battery in the 6 and it's reading 11.89V - shouldn't that be enough ?
The central locking seems to be working so that hasn't got sluggish yet. The dials illuminate, but it's not possible to get the stereo on.
I've not used it for a week - any ideas ?
Cheers. Read more
Hi,
Recently bought a Daewoo Matiz 800cc with 64K on the clock. Gears hard to change, especially from 3rd to 2nd which has a grating noise. Had new clutch and timing belt done but gears no change. Anyone have any suggestions and possible costs to correct.
Thanks,
Lorraine Read more
Hi
How did you get the problem solved?
I hav ethe same problem with my matiz
Suleman
07988644498
Hi, I'm new here and I could use some advice please. I drive for a living and have reached 12 points on my licence. I had 3 points in December 2006 for doing something like 38 in a 30 and got caught by a camera, totally bang to rights I know. Now in the last 12 months I've recieved a further 9, 3 for doing 36 in a 30, 3 for doing 39 in a 30 and 3 for using my mobile phone, I need to add that I was using the phone while the car was stationary at traffic lights and I didnt actually think I'd broke the law.
Anyway, I have sent off my licence with the 60.00 conditional offer fine and I'd like to know what happens next? I understand I will need to go to court but how does it all work if they cash the cheque I've sent them?
Also, what happens if I commit another offence while my licence is away following the original offence?
I hope someone can help.
Thanks. Read more
The law states that if losing your license would cause hardship then only when you kill someone will they take it off you. It is a stupid and ridiculous get out of jail free card.
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I have 2008 mazda 6 sport,I have a problem with the boot opening by itself when i am driving or parked. has anybody else had this problem, As the dealer says they have not had this problem before, they are going to replace the lock first, to see if this corrects the problem,any ideas??? Read more
I have a new shape Mazda 6 SL Saloon and the boot opens itself at random intervals, seems to be more common when the sun has been shining on it.
1) The button on the boot rarely works.
2) The rubber on the button on the boot has a crack in it.
3) Sometimes unlocking the central locking will trigger the boot to open.
4) Sometimes if I push the boot open button on the remote the boot will open and continue to make clicking noises.
5) Sometimes when I shut the boot it will open again straight away on its own accord
6) Once it opened whilst I was stopped at traffic lights
Someone mentioned it could be a faulty solenoid.
Anyway, I hope this will be covered under Mazda warranty as the car is inly 18 months old.
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I replaced the wiper motor on my galaxy just short of 2 years ago at great expense. I now find that the motor again needs replacing. So far to my knowledge this is now the 3rd wiper motor the car has had.
Is this a common problem?
{No need to SHOUT! Post amended to turn the volume down} Read more
Seized wiper spindles are (another) VAG speciality.
On my Passat clone I have wound some wool (knotted the ends) around the lower end of the wiper spindle shafts - there isn't room for much. You need to remove the scuttle covers to get in there - a real pain.
The wool is now soaked in oil and is re-oiled annually.
Regard the wool as a self-assembled felt washer.
659.
My car is a Golf GT TDI @ 35k.
My gearbox is very notchy and clunky (never audibly crunches though) in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears, particularly when cold. I struggle every morning with it on my way into work (when car is cold and been stood overnight). All other gears are silky smooth even in sub-zero temps, it's only 1-3 that are bad, and only on up-shifts, never down-shifts.
What I've got used to doing is double de-clutching for the first 10 mins of driving to allow the gear oil to warm-up; this is hardly ideal on a car of this age, mileage and marque! The gear synchros were changed by VW 6 weeks ago but I'm still getting the same problems. This indicates to me that it's not due to worn synchromesh. Problem is I, or anyone else for that matter, don't seem to know what is causing this, or how to fix it, and just put it down to a characteristic of the car!
Problem is greatly reduced when ambient temp and, thus, oil temp is higher; however, the up-shifts to 2nd and 3rd are still very clunky when I change gear whilst turning a corner! What is that about? Centrifugal force on the oil making it move away from the meshing surfaces of the gears?
This might seem minor to most people but the poor gear-shifting completely ruins the driving experience and overall ownership of this car for me. It's a shame really as I can't say another bad thing about it..........yet........touch wood!
I'd be interested in any comments regarding technical advice/info or similar experiences.
Thanks for reading. Read more
I agree, a gearbox should last the lifetime of a vehicle. At least longer than mine anyway! When I got the car at 17k, 2 years ago, it was the same then!
I have a 40 year old air-cooled VW and the gearbox on that is better than the one on my Golf!
I really am at my wit's end with this now! I've put-up with the problem for 2 years and I paid a lot of money for this car!
I don't think I have many options left, seeing as VW have already stripped and rebuilt the box, other than selling the car!
hi i have a golf mk3 gti 1997 2.0l engine code AGG and the cam belt needs changing the car has done 118.000 miles and the belt was last changed at 63.000miles
for timing the belt up am i correct in assuming that the top pulley which has a dot punched
in to it has to be lined up with the arrow that is cast into the cylinder head
(but on the pulley there is the dot punch mark and allso a white paint mark . like somebody has used a paint pen)
i know that no1 piston has to be at tdc and the rotor arm is to be at no 1 position but do i use the dot or paint mark
do i allso need to change the tension pulley
thankyou Read more
Ah - good news - glad you've done it!
Local dealer has a nice 55 plate 1.6 hdi lx estate, 38k miles, salesman nice guy but not up to speed on the particulate filters. looking at the forum most problems seem with older models with 2.0 Hdi engine. Does the 1.6 have a FAP/DPF? Does it need the special additive replaced at big bucks, or is it self cleaning with no additive. The company I work for has a fleet of Focus's I think same engine no problems with them. I would prefer a petrol cause of the DPF issues, or is this model alright for this. It is the newer shape with the nice front. Is the LX standard suspension or hydraulic? I really like the C5 estate but the diesel reliability makes me think twice. Read more
I wouldnt worry about it.
They respond well to cleaning as you can strip the filter apart and blast it through with a jet washer.
Daughter's Ibiza (it's a 2004 model and most people know them as mkIV) broke down yet again tonight with coil pack failure.
That's the 4th time, and it's always the same one that fails - no1, the one nearest the cam chain.
This is beyond annoying now. She would like another Ibiza as she really likes the car but she ain't having one if I've got anything to do with it.
Have we just been very unlucky or do VAG still have an issue with coil packs failing? Anyone got any ideas about why it's always the same one that fails? Read more
Are these 3 pot engines designed as such or are they cut down V6 engines?
Don't know. Maybe the V6 is 2 x 3cyl engines bolted together? :)
VAG makes them in such volume that I would have imagined each was specifically designed.
First of all, sorry MODEL TYPE is included in the subject for this post....the Vivaro is not listed as an option under vauxhall models. But i have seen some posts on this forum about this van....so here goes: {corrected for you}
I have a 2002 Vauxhall VIVARO van 1.9 litre DTI.
I bought it at auction over 5 years ago. It's the first van I've owned and it's not been that reliable. Lots of little faults, some of them stupid electrical things. Dodgy radio/CD player. New clutch required in 2008 at 60,000 miles...maybe this is normal but its mainly used on the open road rather than stop-start traffic. After the clutch was changed another garage said that the gearbox sounded noisy and was likely to fail at some point.....but this has not yet happened in the 12 months since and i think it's always sounded a little loud.
I'll probably buy a Transit next time.
My question:
Is the water pump on this engine driven from the timing belt? If yes, then I'm assuming it's sensible to change the water pump at the same time as the timing belt and tensioners etc.
Unfortunately the timing belt was changed fairly recently and the water pump was NOT changed. The garage did not suggest this be done at the same time. How likely is the water pump to fail and cause a lot of damage to the engine?
Would really appreciate any guidance on this. Read more
unfortunatley the water pump is driven by cambelt.
3.4 hours is the book time for waterpump and 2.3 for cambelt.
most waterpumps last between 120 to 150 thousand miles.
Thanks for the additional comments.
I never did anything else to the battery other than charge it that one time and it's been fine since, so it looks like simply leaving it for two weeks was enough to let the voltage drop off just enough so that it wouldn't start.
I have taken to disconnecting my iPod whenever I leave the car now as a precaution, as I think it gets trickle-charged via the AudioLink unit for some time after the car is turned off.
I do have some distilled water on stand-by just in case, however I think I'll probably swap it for a sealed battery if it gives me any more problems in the future.