May 2009
hi,i have a 2003 expert 2.0 hdi,having major problems with starting,from cold like left overnight it starts on 1st turn and power is great as it should be,but if i switch it off it wont start again/it does fire as such,leave it till next day it starts
i have changed the low pressure pump in the tank
what we did do was tap with a socket the high pressure pump and 5 times out of 10 it started
would this indiecate the cut off regulater?on the side of the pump being held on with 2 torque screws?
any info would be great
thanks
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I bought my renualt megane 54 plate 3 months ago, it has only done 40k miles. The day I bought it it was excellarating itself and over raving so I took it back of which the auction said they found nothing wrong with it. This was because the car had reset itself. A few weeks later it started again, the dash board wrote check injection and it started overaving and excellarating itself again. I took it to a renault dealer in Oxford which they charged me £92 for dignostics. They said that the car needed a new throtle pedal which they replaced at £89. A few weeks later the same problem started again this time when i was in trafic doing 10-15 miles per hour and it continued to do that so when I switched the car off it reset itself again. I continued with the journey and it was fine. Two days later, it happend again so I took the car back to the dealer. This is the horrific part, they said that the car needed a new wiring loom which they quoted me at £1987 to replace as they said they had to order it from France. First the had misdiognised the car and charged me now they are telling me its something totally different. Has anyone ha dthe same problem with thier renualt?
{Header given a more meaningful title that gives a brief description of question being asked. 50/50 split whether this belongs here or in Technical Matters?} Read more
" Meganes quirks and common issues" = design faults and poor build quality.
Hello,
I'm thinking of changing my Honda Accord for a W203 C320CDI (56 reg). I've heard good things about the performance of the 3.0 diesel but I'm worried about overall reliability. Did things improve towards the end of the W203's production. The car I'm thinking of has about 36K on the clock.
Anyone know anything about this car?
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I bought late c320cdi (07 plate) in Jan. By far the best car I've ever had. Too early to tell on reliability, but the quality feels bullet proof in a way few other cars do. The engine and 7gtronic gearbox are outstanding. I can't praise it highly enough - more power than you could reasonably expect in a car, an absolute delight to own. Fuel consumption takes of a hit when compared to ordinary diesels though - probably 30mpg around town and 45 on a run. But what a delight to drive, that engine is nothing like any other diesel I've ever driven.
Has anybody seen those adverts on Dave? They claim it reduces wear by upto 80%? compared to what no oil at all? Tesco value mineral 20/50? It also claims to have an engine gaurentee - what is that your engine won't die the second you put it in?
I am very confused by the advert it sounds like an american snake oil add from the 1970's :(.
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>>Prolong Mike I would love to try your products...
Welcome to the forum.
Apols for yet another one of these. I saw a 25% off deal on Sainsbury's 5/30 semi-synth oil.
Is it any good? Has anyone used it? Is it 'good' oil from a reputable manufacturer, but just without the markup?
Thanks
Peanut
PS Not going to try to taste the difference.....
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...I wonder, any MP's on the board of Texaco?...
If there are, you can rest assured they won't have paid for their can of oil.
I've been pondering a change of vehicle in the sub-£7500 bracket for some months. Have shortlisted a Fox & Polo. I just wondered whether, apart from a few bells and whistles, there was much material difference between the two. I guess the Fox might have less of a re-sale value, although it's considerably cheaper than its 'big' brother.
As far as I can see, the entry-level models share the same 55bhp engine, platform and chassis. The interior of the Fox is not exactly the VW norm, but my purchase is price-driven. I'm not really hung-up on power windows, central locking etc. Thoughts, opinions and general musings welcome.
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My wife has just taken delivery of a new Fox through the scrappage scheme and
we are amazed with this car. It's nippy and solidly built very spacious inside and
doesn't look like a silly supermini. It seems to be a scrappage well kept secret!
Agree about the spaciousness, but the MPG, C02 and power are terrible. It'll cost 20% more than average in fuel and road tax costs a lot more too.
Hello All,
Owner of a 1.4 HDI 307 Estate with 114,500 "roughly" on the clock. Owned since new and do about 100 miles a day.
A few weeks ago, the car went into limp mode "as far as I know" a few times but was every so often but never brought up a warning light.
Had it serviced then was fantastic for a week, then kicked into limp mode and never recovered.
Then finally the dreaded "Anti-Pollution" and engine management light popped up one day I used my DIY Diagnostic tool to find one fault.
P0401 - EGR Flow Insufficient.
So I got the EGR valve replaced and cleaned out all the tubing free of carbon build up.
Got it all back together, ran fantastic for a day or two.
Then it went back to the same symptoms as limp mode but its not limited as much at the revs (ie I can get it over 3k this time in 1st 2nd and 3rd) just takes so long, feels like the turbo doesnt give any boost.
No faults are being shown on the dash or on the diagnostics.
All I notice is that the engine bay is extremely hot because of the turbo.
I am now stuck as to what the problem is. Ive been suggested to put in 1/2 a litre of T2 oil?? Another suggestion was that the turbo wastegate is stuck?
Any advice as to what to do next is much appreiciated please :).
Regards,
Pete. Read more
Not sure if this thread is still going, or if there is another one that someone can direct me to? Having the same problem, I serviced the engine today, flushed the oil, changed the oil and filter, put a new airfilter in it. Noticed the breather going into the turbo was a little oily so cleaned the pipe and sprayed some cleaner into the turbo on idle to try to push a little of the muck through. Now im getting the antipolution warning and the car will rev as described above. Any advice on how you guys got over this would be great, can ran great before i serviced it!!!
My Almera's lower front crossmember is gradually going the same way as many a Micra crossmember. There's a couple of small (1cm ) holes rusted in it, and one of the drainage holes has gradually been rotting away. The latter is now a ragged hole of about 6 or 7 cm in max diameter, and the surrounding metal is very weak.
Questions:
How bad does is have to be before it goes from pass to advisory to fail? I went through my last MOT fine, though the hole was smaller (about 3 or 4 cm). I've also used underseal on the crossmember to try to slow things.
What are the merits and costs of reconditioning it? I assume this would be by welding a plate over the damaged area. How much would this be for labour?
What about having the crossmember cut out and replaced? Anyone have an idea of how much a new crossmember would cost, and an idea of labour time?
Finally, would it make sense to have the entire front panel replaced? I can find this as a pattern part for about £65 quid. Or does the labour involved mount up dramatically?
Many thanks for reading this.
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Thanks very much for this link. I've now posted pics of the xmember in their forum, to ask for opinion. It seems to be that it's at the advisory stage, not so far gone as to fail.
If I can, I'll have it patched, given the age and value of the car.
I have just bought myself an 02 325i Touring. Checking the plate inside the door it advises 2.3 bar on the front and 2.8 on the rear. When this converts to PSI it seems an awful lot compared to any other car I have had. Now whilst I'm sure that they know what they talking about, can anybody advise if this usual for BMW/e46 s or is it because its the Touring ?
PS I had to put a lot of air in the rears especially.
Many thanks
P Read more
The definitive answer will be in the Owners Guide.
I posted a while back that my engine sounds a bit tappety. I had soem spare time today so began to have a good look down the oil filler and I could see quite a lot of sludge on the engine block wall, the camshaft area looks ok but there was a bit of sludge on one of the of camshaft bolts.
I am suspecting this sludge is blocking a yet or something or just stopping the oil from properly reaching the tappets so it does need removing. However what is the best way of removing this? I have always been warned against engine flushes but in this case is it the best cause of action? Should I just get another oil change done (as suggested once on here).
Oil was changed 480 miles ago but I suspect before that it had done 15k without a change. Read more
I am suspecting this sludge is blocking a yet >>
Oil was changed 480 miles ago but I suspect before that it had done 15k without a change >>
IMO, your engine could have suffered some serious real damage. I think you should get a new engine fitted before you go on your long journey to the wild frontier. ;-)
That's very interesting, I was going to suggest injectors but as you say a quick test would have been deceptive. I have made a note in case I have the problem, seems I will have to get my Lexia working.