May 2009
Hi. I have a 307 SW HDI 110 on a 52 plate
I have a problem with the drivers window which I hope is easy to resolve
As it was a hot day I left the car with the drivers window slightly open but with the locks on. When I started the car, the window wound down and stayed in any position but when I tried to close it, it would close then reopen to the point it had been previously left - almost as if it was programmed. Even with the key control all other windows will close but the drivers closes than reopens.
I can't find anything in the manuals about this or in previous posts. Has anybody else had a similar problem and if so how did you resolve it? Would it clear if I disconnected the battery for a couple of seconds or would this create other problems?
Any advice would be helpful
Thanks
Allan Read more
I try to replace the fuel filter and leak off pipe for my zafira diesel 51 reg. after that do i need to prime the fuel line. if needed how its done.because i had a starting problem in cold condition. i check the glow plug . that is ok .need to crank for a long time to start. after that it start with bit white smoke.Thanks Read more
hi the system is a self bleed fit pipes and filter switch on and start
hello there, i own a e46 330i year 2000,4 door salon,since i bought the car 3 weeks ago there has been a problem with the windscreen wipers,the first notch on the stalk is meant to be auto mode(rain sensitive),the wipers just sweep the screen,they seem to work ok on the faster settings and the headlight washers work,my previous car a e36 325i,wipers had a thing where when you stop the wipers stopped and restarted when you set off again,should the e46 do this as they just sweep regardless of moving or stopping?
i took it in to a garage who said i need a new wiper motor? how can this be as the wipers do work??
i have posted this on three bmw sites and have had no answers yet,can anyone help me out there please!!! Read more
hello,yes had a new windscreen fitted by auto glass,this fault was there before new screen and has not affected the function of the wipers(exactly the same as previous),today i took out the 15 amp fuse thats in the glovebox fuse box thats marked up as the rain sensor fuse,i heard of somebody doing this and having control over the intermitent setting,nothing changed so that rules out the sensor?perhaps the garage might be correct in saying a new wiper motor would be the cure,i still dont understand this as the wipers do work but just not on intermitent and they do not adjust on the roller switch on the stalk??!
any more advise or things maybe to test before biting the bullet and taking to the dealers/bmw! again thanks.
{please note, the word dealers starts with 'd' and not 'st' ;o) }
Does anyone know or can help me , when pressing the lock button on the keyfob the car doesnt lock and the indicator lights just flash twice , however once the car has been locked manually it will unlock with the keyfob.so can anyone help with getting the keyfob to lock the car thanks
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Let your battery drain out completely. That resolved my issue.
For 30 years or more I have driven a company car doing high business mileage and liked the security and peace of mind on costs, despite ever increasing benefit in kind taxation. Recently some friends in similar jobs have switched to privately owned cars and say I should do the same.
The principle is that my employer increases my salary (I am a basic rate tax payer) by the same amount as the current cost to them of the contract hire, fuel, insurance etc, so they are no worse off. I run my own car and can then also claim the mileage against income tax which friends have worked out would be about £9000 a yr. based on my 30,000 buisness miles p.a. I know I have to do this at the end of the tax year by claim.
I currently drive a Skoda Octavia 1.9 diesel and would look to buy a direct replacement or similar. My annnual mileage is about 35,000 total and 30,000 is for work.
Any advice on the financial sense of this and how practical it is from those who may have made this change is welcomed, as a the current car is coming to the end of the contract period and a decision 'point' is available . Read more
Apologies if this factor has already been discussed. In the current uncertainty many people are being suddenly and unexpectedly made redundant. It happened to a friend of mine recently. He had a company car which of course disappeared with the job.
another side to it Humph. Your friend could have been landed with a lease/loan payment charge each month, which he wouldn't be able to afford with no job. At least with the company car set up he could give it back with nothing hanging over his head and make do with public transport for a while, however inconvenient.
Previewed on BBC 6pm news yesterday:
news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/programmes/whos_watching_you/8...m
The existing cameras which use ANPR to log/store journeys will soon all be linked to a central computer. Information Commissioner says "We are not actively monitoring that area. You're right to ask the question. No one's checking it at the moment".
"The police themselves say they have nothing to hide and would welcome the introduction of a regulatory code."
Personally I don't worry too much about this sort of thing, and I'm more interested in the technology they use and how they manage to store all that (mostly useless) information. But I can see why people are concerned.
F Read more
The security services were so stretched that they didn't pick up on the 7/7 bombers. What on earth makes anyone here think that they are going to pick up on someone sitting outside a butchers shop?
Let's be a bit more forensic. I have never read so much drivel in a long, long time as I have read here.
Hi, i have an 97 Escort Estate TDI (think it's 1.8).
The performance is excellent and I'm getting between 50 and 58 mph on long runs between Riga and Cesis in Latvia.
However, every so often it "coughs" or hesitates. After this, it carries on as normal. All other performance is fine, expect it has (as a result of one of these coughs, cut out about 3 times when standing still).
If it was a petrol engine, I'd say I had an intermittent ignition problem, but I'm not all that familiar with diesels.
Don't think it would be the fuel distibution pump or an injector, or it would happen more often. Could it be a fuel filter maybe ?
Any help or guideance would be much appreciated from you diesel speciallists :-)
Good long weekend to all..............englishbullterrier Read more
Priming pump is a stand alone unit, which when pumped, draws the deisel up the fuel lines to the diesel pump at a pressure.
It aint connected to either the camshaft or any belts, just bolted to a bracket on the side of the engine, with 2 snapfit fuel pipes.
I bought one yesterday and it cost just over 72 quid with vat.
I have a similar problem but this did not solve my fault, i now have slight fuel leak coming from the snapfit pipe on the main feed from the primer pump to the diesel pump, which i think is allowing air to enter the fuel system overnight, causing erratic starting and running when cold. I have ordered replacement main feed fuel pipe and hope this sorts it out.
My symptoms are trouble starting when stood overnight, slight white/grey smoke, erratic idling and loss of power, however after a short run, when hot it runs great.
I have replaced primer pump, glow plugs fuel and air filter, so hoping its the leaking fuel line.
Any other ideas ??
i have a ten year old car which qauiifys under scrappage scheme.my problem is my mot expires on 19th may,as you cant place your order untill 18th may is this going to be a problem? im aware you can pre order now which i intend doing, however the garage wont able to procces order until 18th may.i set up a deal with a garage for this scheme only for them at the last minute to say i needed another mot.the way i read it on direct.gov.com is as long as deal is procesed on 18th may my mot will qualify me. Read more
Just my luck that I decided to chop in my Mondeo this time last year for a brand new car, got £300 for it....oh well.
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Whilst the temperature you set is the same, the eco wash may only do a small part of it's wash with water raised to this temperature. The rest of it may be done with cold water for a longer period.
TBH if the only options are 1.5 or 2.5 hours for a wash I'd send it back.
The only wash we have ever used on our 11 year old AEG is a quick wash at 40 degrees. It takes about 50 minutes.
Waiting 2.5 hours for one wash to finish just to save a few pence seems mad.
Hi all, newbie on this fine forum of yours would appreciate some advice on my 2000 306 2.0 Hdi (now 148,000 miles)
I've had the car since 2001 when it had 8000 on the clock, it's been serviced by a garage ever since (not necessarily Pug dealers) and has never given me a minute's trouble until a couple of months ago. Driving along one day, I got an electrical burning sort of smell, and the battery light flashed on briefly. Couple of minutes later the engine coughed, died and then picked up again, but the battery light came on and stayed on. Drove home, had a sniff under the bonnet and got that burnt smell again. Got the multimeter out, checked the battery voltage, started the engine and checked it again - the voltage with the engine running was lower than with the engine stopped, so I figured it must be the alternator.
Checked the price of a new one, sat down, had a cup of tea to steady my nerves and found a pre-loved one on the internet with a 90-day guarantee. Removed the old one while I was waiting for the postman, slipped the new one on when it arrived (just like that . . . . yeah, right . . . ) and everything was hunky-dory with 13.9 volts on tickover.
Fast-forward to last weekend when me and Mrs trukker were off out for a jaunt after the car had stood unused for two days. I hit the central (un)locking button on the key and . . . nothing happened. Thinking the battery in the key must be getting past its sell-by date, I unlocked the drivers' door with the key, but only that door opened. Turned the ignition on - no dash lights. Tried to start the engine - everything was dead. On checking with the meter I only had 3 volts at the battery terminals, so I took the battery off and put it to charge. The battery was new at New Year when I replaced the original one, so it should be OK.
When it was charged, I put it back on the car and got a little spark when I replaced the +ve terminal. Started the engine OK, so I left it to tick over while I got a multimeter. My digital one got fried a couple of days ago, so I used a Gunson Autoranger analogue one set on high range (0 - 16 volts). As I came back to the car the engine coughed, died and picked up again and when I connected the meter across the battery it went right off the scale i.e somewhat more than 16 volts. I turned the engine off and took the +ve terminal off again and had another cup of tea and a think. When I checked it this morning with yet another analogue meter the running voltage was less than that with the engine off, so it's not charging again. Battery light's on too.
Is this a common sort of fault on Pugs, which I understand are beset by more electrical problems than enough? I don't know the history of the secondhand alternator which I fitted, and you can't predict when they're going to fail anyway, but could the car have some sort of gremlin which eats alternators or is it liable to be just an unlucky coincidence?
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Partner 2.0HDi - same engine
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This should fix the problem but disconnect the positive end for at least 3 mins. Then reconnect and leave for three mins, then start it. Your window should then be open and closed fully at least once