May 2009
Interested in buying a CMax (2006) from a local main dealer with 98,000kms (60,000 miles). When asked about replacing the timing belt they reckon it is not required before 20,000 kms (120,000 m). Is this correct? Anything else I should check or ask for before buying? Read more
Hi there to all;
i am totally new to this forum,but sure i am to become a regular visitor now that i have foolishly bought a 307 for the wife ! I formerly worked for peugeot/citroen up until 8 yrs ago so have quite good knowledge of French unreliable electronic systems,anyway,back to the 307...Two days after private purchace,air bag light on/posessed indicators--easy fix-comm2000 unit-£140 GSF ltd/Sheffield.now had car 3mnts,wife came up drive today switched off & removed key,mutch to her suprise engine wouldnt stop/suspect this to be fuel rail pressure sensor,will purchase new one & fit on saturday!if it could be anything else could anyone shed any more light please?thanks to all (fast300zx)I havent got a peugeot !!! Read more
Took above vehicle to peugeot to be code read as it was underpowered and not lifting rev's above 3000 rpm the following code's came up.
Engine Ecu
Permanent fault. Pef: particulate emission filter. Particulate emission filter pierced or exhaust differential pressure incorrect
Intermittent fault. Catalytic converter downstrem temperature signal (cata 2).
Coherence between the catalytic converter 1 temperature and the catalytic converte 2 temperature
Intermitttent fault. Catalytic converter downstream temperature signal (cata2).
Short circuit to positive or open circuit
Abs or Esp Ecu
Permanent fault. Rear left wheel speed sensor. Coherence
Permanent fault. Rear right wheel speed sensor. Coherence
Intermittent fault. Communication with the engine management Ecu fault.
Incorrect value received
Can anyone please shed some light on this please
Reguards Micky bo
{post reformatted to use the whole box width} Read more
so what did the boys on ilexa says then?
Recently bought an 2004 mazda 6 diesel estate with 50k miles on the clock. Been very pleased with it, but have noticed that it sometimes kicks out a large cloud of grey smoke on start up. This seems to normally happen when it has been parked facing down hill, and not only after a long rest; today it happened after the car had only been left for 2 hours - hardly long enough to cool down fully. At home I always park on my drive which faces up hill and it never happens there. I have seen this fault mentioned on forums before, but there has been no suggestion as to the cause. Being reasonably familiar with diesel engines this is the sort of smoke you get when there is excess fuel at start up i.e. it is effectively unburnt fuel, and this would be consistent with its smell. The car always starts very quickly so it is not due to diesel building up due to long cranking before starting. I assume therefore that fuel is getting into the cylinders while the engine is stopped with the car facing down hill and is kicking it out as the smoke when it is next started. Sounds like there is possibly a defective valve which is supposed to stop this type of gravity feed when the engine is stopped. Any idea where this might be or any other suggestions? Have people who have experienced the major fuel pump problem noticed this in the run up its failure? Read more
Has anyone found the reason?
Three garages can't!...
I don't have Cut, Copy or Paste buttons on the toolbar on my PC. They are greyed out in 'Edit'.
I can, of course use Ctrl + X; Ctrl + C or Ctrl + V, but how do I get them on my toolbar?
Running Windows XP.
Any advice would be appreciated. Read more
i did your speed test on my beardness line last night and got the full 2 wassnames im paying for
256 something the other way
£15 a month all in no bt line etc
Don't know if anyone else has had a similar proiblem. Over the past several months or so I've noticed after heavy rain or if I've been to the Car Wash, a strange 'sloshing' noise can be heard when I'm on the move and either accelerating/deccelerating/changing course etc. It's really difficult to pin point the exact location but think it may be coming from the Nearside/front - possibly even the doors.
Could water have actually managed to get into the the doors some how ? - I have checked the usual things like the door/windows seals and they seem to be intact and working fine.
Any suggestions would be greatfully received. Read more
Yep, my Renault Laguna has exactly the same issue with water sloshing about in the rear passenger door after heavy rain! I wish I knew the solution to this irritating problem!
When do you change gear in your diesel.
A big forum post i found say most shift around 2 - 2.2k.
I take mine up to 3 - 3.5k but sometimes feel the need to do an economy run. Mine has shift lights that do actually come on at 2k. Usually takes me down to 1.5k for the next gear.
This got me thinking, people drive like this all the time, low revs and after reading about DMF failure and someone suggesting lugging from low down puts big stress on the DMF, does it?
Is 1.5k really too low to drive like that all the time? The DMF thing bothers me a little as mine is trying to dampen 400nm so i dont want to lug it under stress if i'm on an economy run.
To confuse matters even further my car just doesn't labour, even at 1k RPM. I've often forgot to change gear whilst slowing down. I've been in sixth gear with the down shift light lit up and 1k on the rev counter and the car doesn't judder or splutter, i get no feedback so i don't know where my labouring point is. What really is too low. I'm no diesel expert :) Read more
As no one else has raised any concerns about low revs and DMF failure i'm a bit happier with it now.
As i said, with 400nm of torque mine will pull with no problems from 1.2k and will go well from 1.5k and at 2k its fairly impossible to keep it smooth as the extra torque just jerks the car forward.
So now when i'm doing my economy runs i'm happy to waft along at 1.5k rpm.
Looking at new tyres for my car (225/50 17"). Currently have three mixed worn tyres, Pirelli P6000 and Michelin Pilot Primacy HP, and a relatively new Pirelli P7 with a couple of thousand miles on it.
I can get 3 more P7s for £128 each from mytyres (£14 for fitting, each).
Or other tyres Goodyear Excellence £81, Toyo Proxes T1 R £100, Goodyear Eagle NCT 5 £101, Dunlop SP Sport 01 £108, Michelin Pilot Primacy HP £125. £16 for fitting, each from tyrexpress.
Has anyone got any recommendations? First priority is a smooth ride. Read more
>If you have a quick search on the make and model section further up this page, under Volvo and then S60 on the drop down boxes you will see there was a lot of discussion on precisely this subject a while ago.
Thanks, just tried that, didn't come up with any thing, a google search for site:honestjohn.co.uk s60 tyres is much more effective though...
I don't do that many miles (5000 or so a year), and £100 for the Goodyear rather than £200 for the new Michelins (£135 for the old ones) seems like a no-brainer to me.
And at 6 years old, it's possible I'll not buy any more tyres. From what I've read the Excellences should be at least as quiet as the Michelins
Hi all,
I am considering both of these cars at the moment and would be interested to hear of any ownership experiences from the backroom. I have read in a number of places that the 1.4 is preferable to the 1.6 and that the Hyundai offers a smoother ride.
What I am interested in is the experiences of owners, problems they have had - or not, fuel economy, service from dealers, servicing costs etc. We are a small family (2 grown ups and a 5 year old) and the car appears fine for our needs bearing in mind we are down sizing from a Vectra estate. Just means we'll need to buy a bike rack.
I may consider a used 1.6 diesel version, but the deals available on new petrol versions (i30 1.4 for £9695) are very attractive. We only do an average sort of mileage - around 12-14k pa so are probably just below the economic threshold for a diesel.
Thank you in advance for your comments!
Read more
Judging from the firm suspension on my i30 Comfort petrol, the diesel might be a bit hard-riding due to extra weight. Avoid large-wheeled versions for this reason. The cars are extremely well made and should last a very long time. Loads of useful little extras like a dampened-hinge overhead spectacles container. A bit non-descrpit visually. Sewards of Christchurch excellent dealers - gave me a full day unaccompanied test drive with a full tank. (If you consider petrol, mine has given 43.2 mpg over 13000 miles.)
Getting a funny one with the Zafira. About 1 in 10 starts (cold) the engine splutters and then dies within a second or so. Rarely it won't start at all on the first turn of the key, but is then fine with the next turn.
No codes are showing, and I've already tried cleaning the throttle body, with no improvement at all.
It also frequently shows the "Coolant level check" message on the upper console MID at least once every 10-15 miles, which the Vx dealer has told me to ignore as no coolant is being lost... I don't think this is linked to the starting problem (expansion tank sensor issue?) but you never know...
I don't think the stalling is the well known fuel pump/regulator issues, as it never (yet) stalls on the move, only when starting.
I'm scratching my head on this one, so any help is much appreciated! :) Read more
Just a quick update:
Fixed the coolant level messages with a new sensor.
The starting problem continued, and it one point recently the engine went into limp mode (sounding very rough) before restarting fine. This time it recorded a fault code: P0000!!!
That not being much help, I decided to start with the most common fault and work from there, so I changed the fuel pressure regulator a couple of weeks ago.
Since then it has notched up about 2k miles and started and ran lovely with no hiccups at all.
It appears then, that the problem is solved. Touch wood!
Interestingly, my local Vx dealer claims to have never sold a fuel pressure regulator before and never heard of any problems with it... But somehow was able to get one in stock the same day...
Hmmm... :)
Hello to all & here we go again!
Siemens fuel system so no pump in tank,starts ok but runs slight missfire,no smoke but whilst running can hear a slight popping kind of noise ?revs up ok but when driven feels sluggish-no smoke but diesel knock sound produced?if maf is unplugged while running can hear solenoid valve at g/box disengage ,popping noise dissapears & engine smoothes out & no diesel knock whilst being driven,more response of power too,no lights on dash is maf u/s or could it be solenoid valve??? no codes after launch diagnosis??HELP!!!!!!!!!!