May 2009
Just a quick query.
I'm still trying to buy something nice in the UK to bring back to France as a weekend toy.
I've found a really nice example of what I'm looking for just up the road from family members in Yorkshire and my brother-in-law, with whom I've stolen a few horses in my motoring past, has been for a look and says it's the one.
Snag is, it's on a very valuable personal plate and although the owner has bought his replacement already he hasn't yet transferred the plate. For various reasons I have to be in the UK the week after next and we had hoped to fly over and drive the car back. But when I bring it back it needs to be taxed and tested with current documents that I can show the French authorities when I re-register it.
So the question is, how long does it take to transfer a personal plate off a car and to restore its original registration or replace it with an ordinary 1995 plate?
The guy says sometimes the DVLA has to come out and look at the car with the plate on it - is that right?
Is there any chance that, if the guy contacts his vehicle licensing office on Monday, the transfer can be done by the end of the week?
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Hi All,
I changed the cabin filter the other day (I didnt break the clips :) ). I didnt take the whole thing off, kinda sqeezed the filter in (one corner got very slightly bent). No more stagnent smell.
However, I heard people talk of leaking water due the seal not re-fitting with the winscreen properly. From what I can tell it wasnt a perfect fit before I took it off anyway, its now little less perfect.
It has been in the rain several times since but I cant feel the wet carpet in the passenger footwell. Does that mean its not leaking or is it that its not leaking enough and water is getting soaked up by all the carpety stuff under the hood?
How do I test for this leak and is it worth spending £13 on the adhesive stuff from Ford?
Its a 2001 Y 1.6L
Thanks
{teleported across to Technical Matters} Read more
When I changed mine last year I did break the clips, so I replaced the whole panel and used the butyl sealing strip from Ford to get a perfect seal with the windscreen. There was no gap at all and it never leaked afterwards.
The sealing strip is only a few pounds and the two together cost around £25 IIRC. The strip is a long piece of foam with paper strips on each side that you remove to reveal the (very) sticky surface.
How much of a gap do you have between the base of the windscreen and the panel ? If there is a gap, the foam butyl strip itself will be the only thing stopping the water getting down into the pollen filter housing (and ultimately into the car), so it's probably only a matter of time before it starts to let water through.
If I was you, I'd be tempted to see if there is enough play on that top edge to fit a new sealing strip without removing the panel. The sticky nature of the strip will make this difficult though, as I doubt you'll have much of a gap to play with. Be aware if you go down this route, that you could risk making the existing seal worse or even breaking the clips if you prise it hard enough.
I have heard of people (and garages !) bodging it with DIY-type sealant - you can get clear stuff so it may not be too noticeable when squeezed into the gap, but you'll have to make sure the surfaces are thoroughly clean and dry (same applies if you use the strip).
If it was me, I'd want to sort it one way or another rather than wait for leaks to become apparent, even if it meant replacing the scuttle panel. I've had old cars with wet carpets before and it's not pleasant.
I figured that it was well worth paying £25 to avoid this and the total cost of my DIY major service was still well under the price I'd pay a garage to do it, even with this extra cost !
Good luck with getting it sorted.
Interested in buying a CMax (2006) from a local main dealer with 98,000kms (60,000 miles). When asked about replacing the timing belt they reckon it is not required before 20,000 kms (120,000 m). Is this correct? Anything else I should check or ask for before buying? Read more
Hi there to all;
i am totally new to this forum,but sure i am to become a regular visitor now that i have foolishly bought a 307 for the wife ! I formerly worked for peugeot/citroen up until 8 yrs ago so have quite good knowledge of French unreliable electronic systems,anyway,back to the 307...Two days after private purchace,air bag light on/posessed indicators--easy fix-comm2000 unit-£140 GSF ltd/Sheffield.now had car 3mnts,wife came up drive today switched off & removed key,mutch to her suprise engine wouldnt stop/suspect this to be fuel rail pressure sensor,will purchase new one & fit on saturday!if it could be anything else could anyone shed any more light please?thanks to all (fast300zx)I havent got a peugeot !!! Read more
Hello to all & here we go again!
Siemens fuel system so no pump in tank,starts ok but runs slight missfire,no smoke but whilst running can hear a slight popping kind of noise ?revs up ok but when driven feels sluggish-no smoke but diesel knock sound produced?if maf is unplugged while running can hear solenoid valve at g/box disengage ,popping noise dissapears & engine smoothes out & no diesel knock whilst being driven,more response of power too,no lights on dash is maf u/s or could it be solenoid valve??? no codes after launch diagnosis??HELP!!!!!!!!!!
Took above vehicle to peugeot to be code read as it was underpowered and not lifting rev's above 3000 rpm the following code's came up.
Engine Ecu
Permanent fault. Pef: particulate emission filter. Particulate emission filter pierced or exhaust differential pressure incorrect
Intermittent fault. Catalytic converter downstrem temperature signal (cata 2).
Coherence between the catalytic converter 1 temperature and the catalytic converte 2 temperature
Intermitttent fault. Catalytic converter downstream temperature signal (cata2).
Short circuit to positive or open circuit
Abs or Esp Ecu
Permanent fault. Rear left wheel speed sensor. Coherence
Permanent fault. Rear right wheel speed sensor. Coherence
Intermittent fault. Communication with the engine management Ecu fault.
Incorrect value received
Can anyone please shed some light on this please
Reguards Micky bo
{post reformatted to use the whole box width} Read more
so what did the boys on ilexa says then?
Recently bought an 2004 mazda 6 diesel estate with 50k miles on the clock. Been very pleased with it, but have noticed that it sometimes kicks out a large cloud of grey smoke on start up. This seems to normally happen when it has been parked facing down hill, and not only after a long rest; today it happened after the car had only been left for 2 hours - hardly long enough to cool down fully. At home I always park on my drive which faces up hill and it never happens there. I have seen this fault mentioned on forums before, but there has been no suggestion as to the cause. Being reasonably familiar with diesel engines this is the sort of smoke you get when there is excess fuel at start up i.e. it is effectively unburnt fuel, and this would be consistent with its smell. The car always starts very quickly so it is not due to diesel building up due to long cranking before starting. I assume therefore that fuel is getting into the cylinders while the engine is stopped with the car facing down hill and is kicking it out as the smoke when it is next started. Sounds like there is possibly a defective valve which is supposed to stop this type of gravity feed when the engine is stopped. Any idea where this might be or any other suggestions? Have people who have experienced the major fuel pump problem noticed this in the run up its failure? Read more
Has anyone found the reason?
Three garages can't!...
I don't have Cut, Copy or Paste buttons on the toolbar on my PC. They are greyed out in 'Edit'.
I can, of course use Ctrl + X; Ctrl + C or Ctrl + V, but how do I get them on my toolbar?
Running Windows XP.
Any advice would be appreciated. Read more
i did your speed test on my beardness line last night and got the full 2 wassnames im paying for
256 something the other way
£15 a month all in no bt line etc
Don't know if anyone else has had a similar proiblem. Over the past several months or so I've noticed after heavy rain or if I've been to the Car Wash, a strange 'sloshing' noise can be heard when I'm on the move and either accelerating/deccelerating/changing course etc. It's really difficult to pin point the exact location but think it may be coming from the Nearside/front - possibly even the doors.
Could water have actually managed to get into the the doors some how ? - I have checked the usual things like the door/windows seals and they seem to be intact and working fine.
Any suggestions would be greatfully received. Read more
Yep, my Renault Laguna has exactly the same issue with water sloshing about in the rear passenger door after heavy rain! I wish I knew the solution to this irritating problem!
When do you change gear in your diesel.
A big forum post i found say most shift around 2 - 2.2k.
I take mine up to 3 - 3.5k but sometimes feel the need to do an economy run. Mine has shift lights that do actually come on at 2k. Usually takes me down to 1.5k for the next gear.
This got me thinking, people drive like this all the time, low revs and after reading about DMF failure and someone suggesting lugging from low down puts big stress on the DMF, does it?
Is 1.5k really too low to drive like that all the time? The DMF thing bothers me a little as mine is trying to dampen 400nm so i dont want to lug it under stress if i'm on an economy run.
To confuse matters even further my car just doesn't labour, even at 1k RPM. I've often forgot to change gear whilst slowing down. I've been in sixth gear with the down shift light lit up and 1k on the rev counter and the car doesn't judder or splutter, i get no feedback so i don't know where my labouring point is. What really is too low. I'm no diesel expert :) Read more
As no one else has raised any concerns about low revs and DMF failure i'm a bit happier with it now.
As i said, with 400nm of torque mine will pull with no problems from 1.2k and will go well from 1.5k and at 2k its fairly impossible to keep it smooth as the extra torque just jerks the car forward.
So now when i'm doing my economy runs i'm happy to waft along at 1.5k rpm.
Looking at new tyres for my car (225/50 17"). Currently have three mixed worn tyres, Pirelli P6000 and Michelin Pilot Primacy HP, and a relatively new Pirelli P7 with a couple of thousand miles on it.
I can get 3 more P7s for £128 each from mytyres (£14 for fitting, each).
Or other tyres Goodyear Excellence £81, Toyo Proxes T1 R £100, Goodyear Eagle NCT 5 £101, Dunlop SP Sport 01 £108, Michelin Pilot Primacy HP £125. £16 for fitting, each from tyrexpress.
Has anyone got any recommendations? First priority is a smooth ride. Read more
>If you have a quick search on the make and model section further up this page, under Volvo and then S60 on the drop down boxes you will see there was a lot of discussion on precisely this subject a while ago.
Thanks, just tried that, didn't come up with any thing, a google search for site:honestjohn.co.uk s60 tyres is much more effective though...
I don't do that many miles (5000 or so a year), and £100 for the Goodyear rather than £200 for the new Michelins (£135 for the old ones) seems like a no-brainer to me.
And at 6 years old, it's possible I'll not buy any more tyres. From what I've read the Excellences should be at least as quiet as the Michelins
hb is spot on by the way