May 2009

Voyager Pilot

Hi to all,

I am new to this forum (though not to Chrysler MPV's) and have some techical issues regarding a recently aquired Grand Voyager LX (GS Body - Model build year 2000).

The vehicle is in excellent general condition with comparatively low mileage for its age however I would value assistance concerning restoring full function to its extensive equipment fit and accordingly, any/all advice will be very much appreciated!!

BTW.......I do have access to a 1998 3.3L Grand Voyager LE (almost the same spec as my LX as it had most of the factory options installed) as it has no engine it is a ready source of spares!!!

Issue 1.

The drivers seat heater (backrest & cushion) does not work (passenger seat does btw).

My limited research identifies the components involved as Heater elements, Heater Switch, Heater Relay and Heater Module? Which are common to both seats? Do they share a common fuse...if so which? Where are the relays/modules/fuses located?Looking for a start point diagnosing the problem.

BTW. Have just had a reply on another forum suggesting safety/satisfaction recall D43?? may be required.....Does anybody know if this applies to UK vehicles or only US?

NB. The 98 LE does have a working drivers seat heater are the various components easy to change??

Issue 2.

The reversing sensor system is inoperative on the LX (but not the LE!)......

Both vehicles are equiped with a Mopar Reversing Aid (Part No: 01040148) with sensors adjacent to the rear number plate. They were sold as a genuine Mopar accessory (manufactured by a company called Meta Systems? - marked on interior component). I have a 99 dealer accessory brochure (it was a 'dealer fit' item) and the system is clearly shown!

Is anybody familiar with this particular "accessory" and how it was wired into the vehicle electrics by the dealers? I assume it is somehow wired to the reversing light bulb circuit but how/where is it fused?

Issue 3

When the headlamp leveling wheel (switch) is moved the motors can clearly be heard to work but no adjustment of the headlamp beams is effected plus the motors seem to 'hunt' rather than drive to one stop point.

Again as the leveling system on the LE works how easy is it to swap the components and what is involved??? ............or could it be another problem??

Issue 4 more of a gripe really!!!

The superb trip computer is calibrated in US gallons, is there any way it can be calibrated to read in Imperial gallons hence MPG?? Just hate doing the mental maths from the US measure!!!!!

Perhaps something can be fitted (maybe into a feed wire?) to accomplish the 1.2 X multiplication required to display Imperial Gallons and hence MPG correctly for the UK? .......Maybe some electronic expert(s) have already done this.......... or else might suggest how?

Some people have suggested that this can/has been done with the GS body vehicle. I believe this was fully rectified in the later (RG body) Grand Voyagers from the 2001 Model Year.

All/any advice/instructions much appreciated.........


Thanks in anticipation of your help!!


VP

{Typo in header now corrected} Read more

Voyager Pilot

Thanks for that MerlinTec will give them a call.......install instructions will be very helpful :)

Any thoughts on that unused 6 way??

Catch up soon thanks again,

Voyager Pilot

Rattle

I have done a 15 mile trip with just a 5 minute stop off (to a shop) so the engine was as warm as it ever has been, I was stuck in traffic and became increasingly aware that my engine was sounding noiser. It sounds ok from cold but gets more tappety as the oil gets up to the temperature.

The engine sometimes pinks (experimening with Shell V power but I am now thinking it is related to timing). My question is does my engine sound normal for a typical 1.2 16v Ecotec or is this the sound people talk about when the chian/tensioner needs doing? Bellboy will probably know the answer as he seems to sell a lot of Corsas.

Oil was changed 280 miles ago.

It is a high quality recording and through my HIFI seperates it sounds like the engine is running in my room.

s167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/amazingtrade/?act...v

Thanks I just don't know if I should be worried or not. Read more

Rattle

Indead but my diagnoses is usualy right, just 20,000 miles later! I don't look after myself at all, eat all the wrong foods, drink far too much beer etc etc so I think cars are a good way to divert worry from real life. I am very drunk noiw and decided tnoight that I am just going to leave the engine as is, I will mention it to the garage but if they fob me off that is more than enough opinions that these engines can run in a rrattly state for many 10,000s of miles.

mjnurney

hello,

Does anyone know of a fault code reader for this model? i have a Elm scanner with doesnt work and another no name brand one that doesnt work either, they both connect to the OBD1 port but do nothing ....i know peugeot use the Diag 2000 or Peugeot planet laptop and that a snap on device works too but these are BIG money???

Any help please.....

the 307 has all the usual faults.... Read more

mjnurney

thanks for that but what year is your car and which software do you use?? it connects to the car (i.e fits in the socket) but does nothing else, no communcation at all.... however it works a treat on my modeo with the same settings??

neenaw

My aircon is working but isn't blowing as cold as it should be and I suspect it needs re-gassing.

Does anyone have any suggestions for places to get it checked in West London?

Is it worth using the Kwik-Fit £35 offer that they're doing at the moment? Has anyone used Kwik-Fit for aircon repairs before? Read more

neenaw

I think a lot of people have used Kwik Fit for a/c but many of
them only once!


That pretty much says it all for me!

I've noticed today on the Peugeot website that they offer an aircon checkup for £29.99 and will advise of any faults/leaks in the system. As the car is still under warranty, this might make sense for me as they'll then have to repair it as well!
If it only need regassing then I can use Kwik Fit as they'll be cheaper than the Peugeot dealer!

Focus1.8TDCi

What is the best mpg you have achieved relative to your car's official figures? I got 64mpg in my focus 115 tdci on a 60 mile A road journey doing 60-70mph. The official combined mpg for my car is 51 - I don't know what it is for A road driving. Read more

dieseldogg

Yes I would rate the 1.9TDi VW lump as very economical
And extrapolating from our Galaxy I can see that 60mpg should be achievable, in a Passat or Golf
I, if someone can explain how, will post photos of the display of the Galaxy.
Summer months generally about 50(52.5 achieved over 100hrs driving)
a single best fig was 60 mpg
but that was exceptional , a long slow Sunday afternoon drive
Now in that case just the missis & self
otherwise mostly just me
Mind Had five in tother night, bitterly cold, over the mountain, incl an 18stoner
My goodness was showing 36mpg, proper schocked i was
When the car was new I checked true milage ( against motorway posts)
etc etc etc and the trip computer was only 3% in error(generous)
I even take tyre wear in to account
the only true variable is the dispensed amount of fuel
per another poster I vary between filling stations
but I would guess that NONE of them are over generous in their measures
so put that in yer pipes and smoke it
PS as a young man I drove a Hillman Hunter
averaged about 25mpg ligging about
then started courting in Belfast
Up pm Sat ret Sun
50 mile each way
I could & did get 40mpg
That was my first education as to the effect driving style had on fuel consumption

Dynamic Dave


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Read more

commerdriver

great thanks, searched the forum didn't look in the FAQ
let's see how far we get

S.Ross

I have a 2002 Xsara 2.0l HDI I was told that the cylinder head gasket was gone so I replaced the engine (used). Water pump replaced as well. It still was losing water slowly so I replaced Radiator; still losing water. Car is dry underneath no signs of water anywhere.
It seems to lose it faster when car is driven hard i.e. motorway speeds or when pulling a trailer. It seems to be slightly worse when the heater is on however everyone I have spoken to says that if the heater core was leaking I would smell it and the interior would be wet and the windshield would fog up. None of this has happened.
Can anyone help out?
I now some would scrap it but I have sunk too much cash into it and besides car is in good condition. Read more

S.Ross

Thanks. Yes I have spent too much on this problem and am about to give up unless I can find a cheap fix. Thanks again and will pass this info on to Mechanic.

nrobbert

I am hoping someone has seen this or can give me some further ideas as I am running out!!

My Focus has started to stall about 5 seconds after being started. It starts perfectly and runs fine, but it cuts out just as though it has been turned off. No lights come on until the revs drop enough for the battery light comes on. It starts again perfectly on the next turn of the key. It appears to simply need an ECU reset as I can actually keep the revs at about 2000 (it doesn't matter how many revs I have - it still stalls!) and as soon as it cuts out, just switching the key to ACC and back to IGN quickly before the revs die, it will catch again for another 5 seconds.

It is logging the P0351 and P0352 Ignition coil faults, but I have swapped coils and HT leads and it didn't help. I have measured the voltage to the coil power feed during this stall (min-hold multimeter) and it never drops below 14V (until the revs drop), so all the fuses and relays seem to be okay.

Any suggestions? I will probably try changing the crank position sensor (what else does the ECU listen to!) but I assume that there is a DTC for a faulty crank sensor. After that, it is probably time to try a new ECU :(

Once I have started the engine about 10 times, it will stay on and I can make my journey, usually with no issues. Occasionally, it happens mid-journey but I just repeat this procedure and it clears itself. Once the engine starts and stays on, there is usually a solid mechanical click (sounding like the AC pulley engaging, but I don't have the AC on), and the engine cooling fans come on, but I am not sure if this is normal as I can't recall whether the engine fans came on that early before all the problems (I don't think so!).

It has been in to two garages, but they can only get as far as me, and then want to just replace everything until it is cured, but that would get too expensive.

Any suggestions gratefully received, as I am running out of things to check! This is just strange!

Thanks

Nick Read more

cspeakman

Hi Nick

Have you managed to resolve the problem?

I was driving yesterday and my 02 Focus suddenly started badly misfiring and wanted to stall.

I had the RAC look at it once I got home and the engine management report said it was the ignition coil. The RAC man replaced the coil along with the lead and plugs (as he said these are generally what would cause the coil to fail). Once everything was replaced the problem was still there! This annoyed the RAC man (he was a really nice guy) and he rechecked everything. Satisfied that he had done everything right he took all of the new items back out as the problem was not the coil. He didnt charge me anything but suggested that the only thing left which could throw out an Ignition Coil malfunction code was the ECU and suggested taking it to a garage.

I am just concerned now that a garage is going to go to town on my car and I will be left with a horrendous bill.

Any advice would be gratefully received.

Thanks

Chris

ewen1605

I really need to start thinking about replacing my old car, and with the new government scrappage scheme, this seems like a good time. My current small car is a 1998 Nissan Micra 1.3 GX, but it really is starting to get old. It struggles to hit 60mph, it has a very poor safety rating, the fuel economy can't be brilliant, and the central locking is now completely bust.

I've narrowed my choice of a new car down to the brand-new 2009 Ford Ka Style, and the newly restyled 2009 Toyota AYGO Blue, but I'm really unsure which to get, because the reviews they get are quite similar, and they seem to be getting 4/5 stars everywhere.

The Ka Style costs £8,595 whereas the AYGO Blue costs £8,835 (5-door), but the AYGO has £20 road tax because of its CO2, cheaper insurance across the board, and a much higher MPG of 62.8 combined (compared with the Ka's 55.4). It also seems that the AYGO comes with more equipment as standard - Bluetooth Hands-free and iPod integration (£200 on the Ka) and Side airbags (£150 in the Ka) for example.

My anticipated annual mileage would be around 10,000 miles - mostly around-town travelling with the occasional motorway journey.

I'm just wondering if anyone has any ideas? Thanks in advance! Read more

daveyjp

I drove ours on Sunday for 140 miles of rural roads and enjoyed them all. The fuel gauge finally moved a mile from home!

I estimate high 60s mpg for that trip and the aircon was on all the time.

a900ss

Guys,

Any thoughts on what is wrong with my car?

It's a W203 C class 2.2 diesel auto, 2005, 116000 miles

It's being running a bit rough over the past few days but I thought nothing of it as due a service in 1500 miles. On Friday, it really dropped power. Even with full throttle, it was couuldn't keep up with the flow of traffic when leaving traffic lights and roundabouts and top speed was about 50MPH with my foot flat on the floor.

When you drive it, it wants to change up throught he gears as quickly as possible (circa 1500-2000RPM) even when your foot is to the floor. It will not drop a gear even if you engage kickdown, it remains in the gear it is in. If I turn the engin off, it 'resets' everything and drives normally for about 3-4 minutes then the lack of power kicks in again.

As I was driving to the Mercedes garage, the engine management light can on (yellow) but this wasn't on before.

Any thoughts guys? The car is in the garage at the moment but they can't look at it until Tuesday.

Thanks Read more

a900ss

On a four year old Merc????


I agree with you, it's not really good enough despite 116k miles.

It's fair to say that this Merc with 116k miles is nowhere near as tight as my BMW 320d that went back with 120k after 3 years. I did inherit this merc (company car) at 91k miles so I've no idea how it was looked after, my guess is that it was treated badly.