May 2009
Recently bought an 2004 mazda 6 diesel estate with 50k miles on the clock. Been very pleased with it, but have noticed that it sometimes kicks out a large cloud of grey smoke on start up. This seems to normally happen when it has been parked facing down hill, and not only after a long rest; today it happened after the car had only been left for 2 hours - hardly long enough to cool down fully. At home I always park on my drive which faces up hill and it never happens there. I have seen this fault mentioned on forums before, but there has been no suggestion as to the cause. Being reasonably familiar with diesel engines this is the sort of smoke you get when there is excess fuel at start up i.e. it is effectively unburnt fuel, and this would be consistent with its smell. The car always starts very quickly so it is not due to diesel building up due to long cranking before starting. I assume therefore that fuel is getting into the cylinders while the engine is stopped with the car facing down hill and is kicking it out as the smoke when it is next started. Sounds like there is possibly a defective valve which is supposed to stop this type of gravity feed when the engine is stopped. Any idea where this might be or any other suggestions? Have people who have experienced the major fuel pump problem noticed this in the run up its failure? Read more
I don't have Cut, Copy or Paste buttons on the toolbar on my PC. They are greyed out in 'Edit'.
I can, of course use Ctrl + X; Ctrl + C or Ctrl + V, but how do I get them on my toolbar?
Running Windows XP.
Any advice would be appreciated. Read more
i did your speed test on my beardness line last night and got the full 2 wassnames im paying for
256 something the other way
£15 a month all in no bt line etc
Don't know if anyone else has had a similar proiblem. Over the past several months or so I've noticed after heavy rain or if I've been to the Car Wash, a strange 'sloshing' noise can be heard when I'm on the move and either accelerating/deccelerating/changing course etc. It's really difficult to pin point the exact location but think it may be coming from the Nearside/front - possibly even the doors.
Could water have actually managed to get into the the doors some how ? - I have checked the usual things like the door/windows seals and they seem to be intact and working fine.
Any suggestions would be greatfully received. Read more
Yep, my Renault Laguna has exactly the same issue with water sloshing about in the rear passenger door after heavy rain! I wish I knew the solution to this irritating problem!
When do you change gear in your diesel.
A big forum post i found say most shift around 2 - 2.2k.
I take mine up to 3 - 3.5k but sometimes feel the need to do an economy run. Mine has shift lights that do actually come on at 2k. Usually takes me down to 1.5k for the next gear.
This got me thinking, people drive like this all the time, low revs and after reading about DMF failure and someone suggesting lugging from low down puts big stress on the DMF, does it?
Is 1.5k really too low to drive like that all the time? The DMF thing bothers me a little as mine is trying to dampen 400nm so i dont want to lug it under stress if i'm on an economy run.
To confuse matters even further my car just doesn't labour, even at 1k RPM. I've often forgot to change gear whilst slowing down. I've been in sixth gear with the down shift light lit up and 1k on the rev counter and the car doesn't judder or splutter, i get no feedback so i don't know where my labouring point is. What really is too low. I'm no diesel expert :) Read more
As no one else has raised any concerns about low revs and DMF failure i'm a bit happier with it now.
As i said, with 400nm of torque mine will pull with no problems from 1.2k and will go well from 1.5k and at 2k its fairly impossible to keep it smooth as the extra torque just jerks the car forward.
So now when i'm doing my economy runs i'm happy to waft along at 1.5k rpm.
Looking at new tyres for my car (225/50 17"). Currently have three mixed worn tyres, Pirelli P6000 and Michelin Pilot Primacy HP, and a relatively new Pirelli P7 with a couple of thousand miles on it.
I can get 3 more P7s for £128 each from mytyres (£14 for fitting, each).
Or other tyres Goodyear Excellence £81, Toyo Proxes T1 R £100, Goodyear Eagle NCT 5 £101, Dunlop SP Sport 01 £108, Michelin Pilot Primacy HP £125. £16 for fitting, each from tyrexpress.
Has anyone got any recommendations? First priority is a smooth ride. Read more
>If you have a quick search on the make and model section further up this page, under Volvo and then S60 on the drop down boxes you will see there was a lot of discussion on precisely this subject a while ago.
Thanks, just tried that, didn't come up with any thing, a google search for site:honestjohn.co.uk s60 tyres is much more effective though...
I don't do that many miles (5000 or so a year), and £100 for the Goodyear rather than £200 for the new Michelins (£135 for the old ones) seems like a no-brainer to me.
And at 6 years old, it's possible I'll not buy any more tyres. From what I've read the Excellences should be at least as quiet as the Michelins
Hi all,
my BMW 530d, 1999 E39, with 150K miles on the clock has a transmission issue...
Basically she refuses to DRIVE forwards either in Drive or Sport or Manual Sports.
The problem sudden started one morning... no previous signs of slippage, jolting etc, etc.. got in the car in the morning and she just refused to move. Rev the car to 3500rpm and suddenly it lept forward and drove 100%... some 30mins later a slight judder and back to basically doing nothing but creeping along at 2/3mph if the rev really hard. Stopped the car, left for some 30mins.. started again worked a treat, drive, sports and semi auto/manual. drove to dealership.. NO ERROR codes.
Dealership say's new gearbox (which is what I expected) and refused to change the oil (which is also what I expected) BMW lifetime oil, load of !"£$ if you ask me. they said it was likely to be the clutch plates with 150K they must be worn... but surely I would have had slippage over time and would a have noticed.. hummmm...
The dealership pushed the car out the workout as it now would not drive (it still creeps thou)
Okay - the car drives 100% in REVERSE (no smart comments like the wife said thanks)
I have drained the oil from the sump and removed the sump, no significant signs of debris.. just some slight spec's.. in fact it was amazingly clean, no grime or thick sludge. The oil was no longer Red, more of a really dark brown (not black) did smell burnt.. smelt like old oil. the viscosity I would say was like a 0-5W engine oil....where I understand ATF (yea I know these cars use a special L.Life fluid...) should be more like 30W.
It is not possible to drain the Torque converter on these babies without taking said box out or doing the old oil cooler off trick and running the engine. Anyway...
I have spoken to one garage and they say TORQUE CONVERTER - spoke to other and they said no way, if the car drives in reverse then it is not the TC, more likely the FWD clutch...
I have little lose other than about £80 on refilling the gearbox with fresh oil, cleaning the transfilter and seeing if there is ANY improvement.. never know the sun might be shining that day.. but I have some general Autobox questions:
The fact the car drives 100% in Reverse does that rule out a TC issue? this question has been bugging me and I'm struggling to find an answer.....
If the 60/40% oil swap makes zero difference she is in for a box rebuild... not worth anything with a duff box... but she is (in prague where I live) with a working one and warranty.
Thanks for ANY help.... really miss the UK
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I understand the drive operates the points by remote....
gearbox is going in for a rebuilt
Hi all,
I am considering both of these cars at the moment and would be interested to hear of any ownership experiences from the backroom. I have read in a number of places that the 1.4 is preferable to the 1.6 and that the Hyundai offers a smoother ride.
What I am interested in is the experiences of owners, problems they have had - or not, fuel economy, service from dealers, servicing costs etc. We are a small family (2 grown ups and a 5 year old) and the car appears fine for our needs bearing in mind we are down sizing from a Vectra estate. Just means we'll need to buy a bike rack.
I may consider a used 1.6 diesel version, but the deals available on new petrol versions (i30 1.4 for £9695) are very attractive. We only do an average sort of mileage - around 12-14k pa so are probably just below the economic threshold for a diesel.
Thank you in advance for your comments!
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Judging from the firm suspension on my i30 Comfort petrol, the diesel might be a bit hard-riding due to extra weight. Avoid large-wheeled versions for this reason. The cars are extremely well made and should last a very long time. Loads of useful little extras like a dampened-hinge overhead spectacles container. A bit non-descrpit visually. Sewards of Christchurch excellent dealers - gave me a full day unaccompanied test drive with a full tank. (If you consider petrol, mine has given 43.2 mpg over 13000 miles.)
Getting a funny one with the Zafira. About 1 in 10 starts (cold) the engine splutters and then dies within a second or so. Rarely it won't start at all on the first turn of the key, but is then fine with the next turn.
No codes are showing, and I've already tried cleaning the throttle body, with no improvement at all.
It also frequently shows the "Coolant level check" message on the upper console MID at least once every 10-15 miles, which the Vx dealer has told me to ignore as no coolant is being lost... I don't think this is linked to the starting problem (expansion tank sensor issue?) but you never know...
I don't think the stalling is the well known fuel pump/regulator issues, as it never (yet) stalls on the move, only when starting.
I'm scratching my head on this one, so any help is much appreciated! :) Read more
Just a quick update:
Fixed the coolant level messages with a new sensor.
The starting problem continued, and it one point recently the engine went into limp mode (sounding very rough) before restarting fine. This time it recorded a fault code: P0000!!!
That not being much help, I decided to start with the most common fault and work from there, so I changed the fuel pressure regulator a couple of weeks ago.
Since then it has notched up about 2k miles and started and ran lovely with no hiccups at all.
It appears then, that the problem is solved. Touch wood!
Interestingly, my local Vx dealer claims to have never sold a fuel pressure regulator before and never heard of any problems with it... But somehow was able to get one in stock the same day...
Hmmm... :)
Hi to all,
I am new to this forum (though not to Chrysler MPV's) and have some techical issues regarding a recently aquired Grand Voyager LX (GS Body - Model build year 2000).
The vehicle is in excellent general condition with comparatively low mileage for its age however I would value assistance concerning restoring full function to its extensive equipment fit and accordingly, any/all advice will be very much appreciated!!
BTW.......I do have access to a 1998 3.3L Grand Voyager LE (almost the same spec as my LX as it had most of the factory options installed) as it has no engine it is a ready source of spares!!!
Issue 1.
The drivers seat heater (backrest & cushion) does not work (passenger seat does btw).
My limited research identifies the components involved as Heater elements, Heater Switch, Heater Relay and Heater Module? Which are common to both seats? Do they share a common fuse...if so which? Where are the relays/modules/fuses located?Looking for a start point diagnosing the problem.
BTW. Have just had a reply on another forum suggesting safety/satisfaction recall D43?? may be required.....Does anybody know if this applies to UK vehicles or only US?
NB. The 98 LE does have a working drivers seat heater are the various components easy to change??
Issue 2.
The reversing sensor system is inoperative on the LX (but not the LE!)......
Both vehicles are equiped with a Mopar Reversing Aid (Part No: 01040148) with sensors adjacent to the rear number plate. They were sold as a genuine Mopar accessory (manufactured by a company called Meta Systems? - marked on interior component). I have a 99 dealer accessory brochure (it was a 'dealer fit' item) and the system is clearly shown!
Is anybody familiar with this particular "accessory" and how it was wired into the vehicle electrics by the dealers? I assume it is somehow wired to the reversing light bulb circuit but how/where is it fused?
Issue 3
When the headlamp leveling wheel (switch) is moved the motors can clearly be heard to work but no adjustment of the headlamp beams is effected plus the motors seem to 'hunt' rather than drive to one stop point.
Again as the leveling system on the LE works how easy is it to swap the components and what is involved??? ............or could it be another problem??
Issue 4 more of a gripe really!!!
The superb trip computer is calibrated in US gallons, is there any way it can be calibrated to read in Imperial gallons hence MPG?? Just hate doing the mental maths from the US measure!!!!!
Perhaps something can be fitted (maybe into a feed wire?) to accomplish the 1.2 X multiplication required to display Imperial Gallons and hence MPG correctly for the UK? .......Maybe some electronic expert(s) have already done this.......... or else might suggest how?
Some people have suggested that this can/has been done with the GS body vehicle. I believe this was fully rectified in the later (RG body) Grand Voyagers from the 2001 Model Year.
All/any advice/instructions much appreciated.........
Thanks in anticipation of your help!!
VP
{Typo in header now corrected} Read more
Thanks for that MerlinTec will give them a call.......install instructions will be very helpful :)
Any thoughts on that unused 6 way??
Catch up soon thanks again,
Voyager Pilot
I have done a 15 mile trip with just a 5 minute stop off (to a shop) so the engine was as warm as it ever has been, I was stuck in traffic and became increasingly aware that my engine was sounding noiser. It sounds ok from cold but gets more tappety as the oil gets up to the temperature.
The engine sometimes pinks (experimening with Shell V power but I am now thinking it is related to timing). My question is does my engine sound normal for a typical 1.2 16v Ecotec or is this the sound people talk about when the chian/tensioner needs doing? Bellboy will probably know the answer as he seems to sell a lot of Corsas.
Oil was changed 280 miles ago.
It is a high quality recording and through my HIFI seperates it sounds like the engine is running in my room.
s167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/amazingtrade/?act...v
Thanks I just don't know if I should be worried or not. Read more
Indead but my diagnoses is usualy right, just 20,000 miles later! I don't look after myself at all, eat all the wrong foods, drink far too much beer etc etc so I think cars are a good way to divert worry from real life. I am very drunk noiw and decided tnoight that I am just going to leave the engine as is, I will mention it to the garage but if they fob me off that is more than enough opinions that these engines can run in a rrattly state for many 10,000s of miles.
Has anyone found the reason?
Three garages can't!...