May 2009
Hi all,
my BMW 530d, 1999 E39, with 150K miles on the clock has a transmission issue...
Basically she refuses to DRIVE forwards either in Drive or Sport or Manual Sports.
The problem sudden started one morning... no previous signs of slippage, jolting etc, etc.. got in the car in the morning and she just refused to move. Rev the car to 3500rpm and suddenly it lept forward and drove 100%... some 30mins later a slight judder and back to basically doing nothing but creeping along at 2/3mph if the rev really hard. Stopped the car, left for some 30mins.. started again worked a treat, drive, sports and semi auto/manual. drove to dealership.. NO ERROR codes.
Dealership say's new gearbox (which is what I expected) and refused to change the oil (which is also what I expected) BMW lifetime oil, load of !"£$ if you ask me. they said it was likely to be the clutch plates with 150K they must be worn... but surely I would have had slippage over time and would a have noticed.. hummmm...
The dealership pushed the car out the workout as it now would not drive (it still creeps thou)
Okay - the car drives 100% in REVERSE (no smart comments like the wife said thanks)
I have drained the oil from the sump and removed the sump, no significant signs of debris.. just some slight spec's.. in fact it was amazingly clean, no grime or thick sludge. The oil was no longer Red, more of a really dark brown (not black) did smell burnt.. smelt like old oil. the viscosity I would say was like a 0-5W engine oil....where I understand ATF (yea I know these cars use a special L.Life fluid...) should be more like 30W.
It is not possible to drain the Torque converter on these babies without taking said box out or doing the old oil cooler off trick and running the engine. Anyway...
I have spoken to one garage and they say TORQUE CONVERTER - spoke to other and they said no way, if the car drives in reverse then it is not the TC, more likely the FWD clutch...
I have little lose other than about £80 on refilling the gearbox with fresh oil, cleaning the transfilter and seeing if there is ANY improvement.. never know the sun might be shining that day.. but I have some general Autobox questions:
The fact the car drives 100% in Reverse does that rule out a TC issue? this question has been bugging me and I'm struggling to find an answer.....
If the 60/40% oil swap makes zero difference she is in for a box rebuild... not worth anything with a duff box... but she is (in prague where I live) with a working one and warranty.
Thanks for ANY help.... really miss the UK
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Hi all,
I am considering both of these cars at the moment and would be interested to hear of any ownership experiences from the backroom. I have read in a number of places that the 1.4 is preferable to the 1.6 and that the Hyundai offers a smoother ride.
What I am interested in is the experiences of owners, problems they have had - or not, fuel economy, service from dealers, servicing costs etc. We are a small family (2 grown ups and a 5 year old) and the car appears fine for our needs bearing in mind we are down sizing from a Vectra estate. Just means we'll need to buy a bike rack.
I may consider a used 1.6 diesel version, but the deals available on new petrol versions (i30 1.4 for £9695) are very attractive. We only do an average sort of mileage - around 12-14k pa so are probably just below the economic threshold for a diesel.
Thank you in advance for your comments!
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Judging from the firm suspension on my i30 Comfort petrol, the diesel might be a bit hard-riding due to extra weight. Avoid large-wheeled versions for this reason. The cars are extremely well made and should last a very long time. Loads of useful little extras like a dampened-hinge overhead spectacles container. A bit non-descrpit visually. Sewards of Christchurch excellent dealers - gave me a full day unaccompanied test drive with a full tank. (If you consider petrol, mine has given 43.2 mpg over 13000 miles.)
Getting a funny one with the Zafira. About 1 in 10 starts (cold) the engine splutters and then dies within a second or so. Rarely it won't start at all on the first turn of the key, but is then fine with the next turn.
No codes are showing, and I've already tried cleaning the throttle body, with no improvement at all.
It also frequently shows the "Coolant level check" message on the upper console MID at least once every 10-15 miles, which the Vx dealer has told me to ignore as no coolant is being lost... I don't think this is linked to the starting problem (expansion tank sensor issue?) but you never know...
I don't think the stalling is the well known fuel pump/regulator issues, as it never (yet) stalls on the move, only when starting.
I'm scratching my head on this one, so any help is much appreciated! :) Read more
Just a quick update:
Fixed the coolant level messages with a new sensor.
The starting problem continued, and it one point recently the engine went into limp mode (sounding very rough) before restarting fine. This time it recorded a fault code: P0000!!!
That not being much help, I decided to start with the most common fault and work from there, so I changed the fuel pressure regulator a couple of weeks ago.
Since then it has notched up about 2k miles and started and ran lovely with no hiccups at all.
It appears then, that the problem is solved. Touch wood!
Interestingly, my local Vx dealer claims to have never sold a fuel pressure regulator before and never heard of any problems with it... But somehow was able to get one in stock the same day...
Hmmm... :)
Hi to all,
I am new to this forum (though not to Chrysler MPV's) and have some techical issues regarding a recently aquired Grand Voyager LX (GS Body - Model build year 2000).
The vehicle is in excellent general condition with comparatively low mileage for its age however I would value assistance concerning restoring full function to its extensive equipment fit and accordingly, any/all advice will be very much appreciated!!
BTW.......I do have access to a 1998 3.3L Grand Voyager LE (almost the same spec as my LX as it had most of the factory options installed) as it has no engine it is a ready source of spares!!!
Issue 1.
The drivers seat heater (backrest & cushion) does not work (passenger seat does btw).
My limited research identifies the components involved as Heater elements, Heater Switch, Heater Relay and Heater Module? Which are common to both seats? Do they share a common fuse...if so which? Where are the relays/modules/fuses located?Looking for a start point diagnosing the problem.
BTW. Have just had a reply on another forum suggesting safety/satisfaction recall D43?? may be required.....Does anybody know if this applies to UK vehicles or only US?
NB. The 98 LE does have a working drivers seat heater are the various components easy to change??
Issue 2.
The reversing sensor system is inoperative on the LX (but not the LE!)......
Both vehicles are equiped with a Mopar Reversing Aid (Part No: 01040148) with sensors adjacent to the rear number plate. They were sold as a genuine Mopar accessory (manufactured by a company called Meta Systems? - marked on interior component). I have a 99 dealer accessory brochure (it was a 'dealer fit' item) and the system is clearly shown!
Is anybody familiar with this particular "accessory" and how it was wired into the vehicle electrics by the dealers? I assume it is somehow wired to the reversing light bulb circuit but how/where is it fused?
Issue 3
When the headlamp leveling wheel (switch) is moved the motors can clearly be heard to work but no adjustment of the headlamp beams is effected plus the motors seem to 'hunt' rather than drive to one stop point.
Again as the leveling system on the LE works how easy is it to swap the components and what is involved??? ............or could it be another problem??
Issue 4 more of a gripe really!!!
The superb trip computer is calibrated in US gallons, is there any way it can be calibrated to read in Imperial gallons hence MPG?? Just hate doing the mental maths from the US measure!!!!!
Perhaps something can be fitted (maybe into a feed wire?) to accomplish the 1.2 X multiplication required to display Imperial Gallons and hence MPG correctly for the UK? .......Maybe some electronic expert(s) have already done this.......... or else might suggest how?
Some people have suggested that this can/has been done with the GS body vehicle. I believe this was fully rectified in the later (RG body) Grand Voyagers from the 2001 Model Year.
All/any advice/instructions much appreciated.........
Thanks in anticipation of your help!!
VP
{Typo in header now corrected} Read more
Thanks for that MerlinTec will give them a call.......install instructions will be very helpful :)
Any thoughts on that unused 6 way??
Catch up soon thanks again,
Voyager Pilot
I have done a 15 mile trip with just a 5 minute stop off (to a shop) so the engine was as warm as it ever has been, I was stuck in traffic and became increasingly aware that my engine was sounding noiser. It sounds ok from cold but gets more tappety as the oil gets up to the temperature.
The engine sometimes pinks (experimening with Shell V power but I am now thinking it is related to timing). My question is does my engine sound normal for a typical 1.2 16v Ecotec or is this the sound people talk about when the chian/tensioner needs doing? Bellboy will probably know the answer as he seems to sell a lot of Corsas.
Oil was changed 280 miles ago.
It is a high quality recording and through my HIFI seperates it sounds like the engine is running in my room.
s167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/amazingtrade/?act...v
Thanks I just don't know if I should be worried or not. Read more
Indead but my diagnoses is usualy right, just 20,000 miles later! I don't look after myself at all, eat all the wrong foods, drink far too much beer etc etc so I think cars are a good way to divert worry from real life. I am very drunk noiw and decided tnoight that I am just going to leave the engine as is, I will mention it to the garage but if they fob me off that is more than enough opinions that these engines can run in a rrattly state for many 10,000s of miles.
hello,
Does anyone know of a fault code reader for this model? i have a Elm scanner with doesnt work and another no name brand one that doesnt work either, they both connect to the OBD1 port but do nothing ....i know peugeot use the Diag 2000 or Peugeot planet laptop and that a snap on device works too but these are BIG money???
Any help please.....
the 307 has all the usual faults.... Read more
thanks for that but what year is your car and which software do you use?? it connects to the car (i.e fits in the socket) but does nothing else, no communcation at all.... however it works a treat on my modeo with the same settings??
My aircon is working but isn't blowing as cold as it should be and I suspect it needs re-gassing.
Does anyone have any suggestions for places to get it checked in West London?
Is it worth using the Kwik-Fit £35 offer that they're doing at the moment? Has anyone used Kwik-Fit for aircon repairs before? Read more
I think a lot of people have used Kwik Fit for a/c but many of
them only once!
That pretty much says it all for me!
I've noticed today on the Peugeot website that they offer an aircon checkup for £29.99 and will advise of any faults/leaks in the system. As the car is still under warranty, this might make sense for me as they'll then have to repair it as well!
If it only need regassing then I can use Kwik Fit as they'll be cheaper than the Peugeot dealer!
What is the best mpg you have achieved relative to your car's official figures? I got 64mpg in my focus 115 tdci on a 60 mile A road journey doing 60-70mph. The official combined mpg for my car is 51 - I don't know what it is for A road driving. Read more
Yes I would rate the 1.9TDi VW lump as very economical
And extrapolating from our Galaxy I can see that 60mpg should be achievable, in a Passat or Golf
I, if someone can explain how, will post photos of the display of the Galaxy.
Summer months generally about 50(52.5 achieved over 100hrs driving)
a single best fig was 60 mpg
but that was exceptional , a long slow Sunday afternoon drive
Now in that case just the missis & self
otherwise mostly just me
Mind Had five in tother night, bitterly cold, over the mountain, incl an 18stoner
My goodness was showing 36mpg, proper schocked i was
When the car was new I checked true milage ( against motorway posts)
etc etc etc and the trip computer was only 3% in error(generous)
I even take tyre wear in to account
the only true variable is the dispensed amount of fuel
per another poster I vary between filling stations
but I would guess that NONE of them are over generous in their measures
so put that in yer pipes and smoke it
PS as a young man I drove a Hillman Hunter
averaged about 25mpg ligging about
then started courting in Belfast
Up pm Sat ret Sun
50 mile each way
I could & did get 40mpg
That was my first education as to the effect driving style had on fuel consumption
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great thanks, searched the forum didn't look in the FAQ
let's see how far we get
I have a 2002 Xsara 2.0l HDI I was told that the cylinder head gasket was gone so I replaced the engine (used). Water pump replaced as well. It still was losing water slowly so I replaced Radiator; still losing water. Car is dry underneath no signs of water anywhere.
It seems to lose it faster when car is driven hard i.e. motorway speeds or when pulling a trailer. It seems to be slightly worse when the heater is on however everyone I have spoken to says that if the heater core was leaking I would smell it and the interior would be wet and the windshield would fog up. None of this has happened.
Can anyone help out?
I now some would scrap it but I have sunk too much cash into it and besides car is in good condition. Read more
Thanks. Yes I have spent too much on this problem and am about to give up unless I can find a cheap fix. Thanks again and will pass this info on to Mechanic.
I understand the drive operates the points by remote....
gearbox is going in for a rebuilt