October 2008
On my Rover 75 diesel CDT the radiator fan seems to operate all the time - even if I just turn on the ignition without starting the engine. I can't hear if it's on all the time when I'm driving but whenever I come to a halt and turn off the ignition the fan is always on and continues for a few seconds. This is irrespective of the ambient temperature and the type/speed of driving I have been doing. Surely the fan should only operate when the coolant temperature rises to a certain level? In normal driving the temperature seems OK with the needle in the middle (i.e. as pointing west on a compass).
Earlier in the year I had the common 75 problem of a flooded ECU. The ECU was apparently OK when dried out (although the glow plug relay was corroded and had to be replaced). I am wondering if this may be the cause of the fan problem as I presume the fan operation is controlled by the ECU.
Your comments would be appreciated. Read more
At the first 10,000 mile service of my car, at the main dealer, I was amazed to be asked if I wanted to pay for a £16 bottle of Havoline fuel system cleaner. Amazed because I thought car manufacturers did not recommend any fuel or oil additives.
I declined. Anyone else had this attempt to get even more money out of them?
Read more
A garage will often use to system clean fuel additive to clear out engine muck if/when a vehicle fails its MOT emissions tests. Often the additive treatment is enough to get the vehicle through a re-test, otherwise it's more serious money.
There are some excellent fuel additives products on the market and they a good job at cleaning up what cheap fuel or mixing fuels don't do.
Just taken a test drive on a V reg Corsa 1.4 16v CDX, it drove fine the brakes were a little spongy but the garage said he will fix this for the MOT. However when I checked for smoke there was a tiny bit of condensation steam (the engine was cold). I have just been back now and the car engine was running and there was quite a bit of steam coming out the back.
The car is going to have a full service and 12 months MOT before being sold to me, and it comes with 3 months warranty.
If I buy the car I assume the problem would have to fixed under warranty? The guys been on the site for 28 years and seems to have a decent reputation.
Could a lack of use (cars not been used for a month) and the fact its over due a service just be causing that? Read more
The 1.3 verse 1.25 is a big debate, because the 1.3 is easier to fix, the 1.25 is longer lasting, faster, more fuel efficient. I think the 1.3 is a great engine in a banger because they will happily rattle on for ever while the car its screwed to just rusts away.
Simply select your favouite from either column!!
S-class or 7-series
Mandela or Pinochet
Fiat Panda or C1/aygo/107
Thatcher or Red Ken
New Mondeo or Insignia
Guardian or Telegraph
Mitsubishi Evo or Something big & comfy
New Labour or Old Labour
Road or Rail
Morris Ital or Herpes
Darling or Osborne
North America or North Korea Read more
I'm afraid not, you got one question wrong you see. :-)
Why a 7-series over an S-class?
SWMBO bought a three year old 1.3 SR Yaris in 2003 with about 20k miles on clock - since then she has clocked up another 58k and car has performed faultlessly - in fact it passed it's MOT again without anything being done to it last Friday.
Over the last few months I have noticed the computer fuel consumption figures have dropped - in all the years it has constantly read around 44-48 mpg and I had no trouble getting it up to 50 mpg - however it's now reading 39-41 - it runs well and starts first time - Now when starting up from cold I can smell slight whiff of petrol and after first 200yrds to first tee junction when lifting foot off throttle the engine speed doesn't drop instantly like it used to -- I have given it a few Italian tune ups (she drives steady) cleaned plugs and changed air filter - There is no temp gauge only a blue symbol of thermometer and that goes out after about 1 1/2 miles - heater gets hot quickly - so before I ask my local Mobile Auto Tune specialist to come and plug his kit on has anyone any advise as what I could look for - I feel it has to be something simple and connected to cold startup as when engine is hot and I reset computer to zero the fuel consumption figure is back up to 44-48 but after startup next morning it drops back to low 40's and if she does a few cold starts during day it gets even lower -- Doing a tank full to tank full consumption work out it's coming out at 44-45.
Thanks Read more
Steering rack leaking power steering fluid - looks like around the pinion area (where column joins rack). Is this likely to be just a small job of replacing a seal (O ring) where pinion sticks out of top of rack? How on earth do you get the rack out of the vehicle? Haynes manual very simplistic...when steering column trim removed is there a bulkhead pannel that comes off to allow access to remove in/out pipes from rack and access to rack to body fastnings? Is there anything to be especially aware of when removing/replacing? (I have lifetime of playing with older, some vintage, cars so have a fair bit of know how). Read more
WOOPS subject should read 1993 (not 03) I do not know how to alter the subject heading.
{Corrected. The edit button only works for 5 mins or until someone replies to your post, whichever is the sooner}
Hi
My Pug 306 has recently developed an irritating fault. When starting the car from cold it will idle steadily at 1000rpm then the revs will jump up to 2000rpm after a couple of mins. They then immediately drop back to 1000rpm. Sometimes, after another couple of mins, it will happen again. It can also happen after moving off and is especially disconcerting in slow moving traffic.
Also, the engine will sometimes take a while to fire when cold (It used to start straight away, even on very cold mornings).
Neither of these symptoms are present when the engine is started when warm (The idle is very smooth at around 800-900rpm).
A friend (who knows more about these things!) suggested I replace the Idle air control valve which I did. The problems are still there though. I have also reset the ECU which initially made things worse then settled back to the above pattern.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Read more
Our 306 did EXACTLY the same. It took me ages to find the fault which
was the GREEN engine temp sensor (this car has 3 of them but it is
French afterall). Cost about £10 for a new one.
Just for anyone's future reference this was the part to blame. It was about £12-13 from my local Peugeot Dealer.
I see Fullchat suspects UK geezer of trolling in his "was it me or the missus?" post.
I thought the same of the bloke who claimed exactly the same thing some weeks ago. People will remember him 'cos he could drive his BMW more safely at warp factor 3 than I can drive at 30mph. He said it was all true
What happened, mate?
And what happened to the bloke who was going to court because neither he nor his wife could remember who was driving when they were flashed in her father's car and were both too principled to take the hit?
How did it turn out?
If you're out there, please update us! Read more
Can anyone tell me why our Focus is so prone to steeming up lately.
I went out yesterday evening with my wife and daughter in the car. It had been a warm dry day and no one had damp hair or clothes, it was also a warmish night for the time of year, but the car was still steaming up raely badly.
I have obviously checked the boot and carpets for any sign of rain water ingress but everything is bone dry. I've heard that a fault with the aircon can sometimes cause this sort of problem, although this was occuring without the aircon on. Screen was instantly cleared by demister, but rapidly became misted again.
{typo in header amended} Read more
I have this problem and it appears to be caused by residual moisture (after the use of the aircon) in the aircon/heater air system coming back into the car. My solution is not to use the aircon when the atmosphere is cool/cold and/or humid.
Do both headlamps have to have exactly the same pattern on their lenses for the MOT test?
One of mine has a chipped lense and I was thinking of replacing it with another from a breakers yard.
I know the MOT stipulates a 'matched pair' but what exactly do they mean by 'matched'? Read more
Many cars differ in shape and pattern NS to OS anyway and on some cars,the parts supplied as replacements will be from a different manufacturer to the OE.
sounds like a dodgey coolent sensor in the block or a corroded multiplug in the fan wiring