July 2008

mchampson

I have a 06 plate 307 1.6HDi 90.
Can someone tell me where the CR sensor is located and how I get to it.

{amendment to header to clarify what CR stands for} Read more

MikeTorque

Personally I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole. There is no definition about the warantee - alarms bells ringing ! The device sounds like it's a general CR "fits all" type which begs the question has it been tried and tested and certified to work for your particular car ?

The price they are asking for the device means it's right at the bottom end of the market. The quality products are tested and certified for any given engine/vehicle and come with a good warantee, support service and have multiple configurable parameter options.

Fitting any tuning device to the CR sensor for your model of car is no easy job as other components have to be removed for access.

spikeyhead {p}

My Mondeo tdci ghia is almost at 150,000 miles. Should be there sometime next week so I thought I'd write a few words about my ownership experiences.

I bought the car in August 18 months ago and have since put 52,000 miles on it. been doing fewer than my usual miles recently. The only major issue has been a failed water pump, which also took out the power steering pump. I've also had a rear brake caliper seize which was easy enough to change. I've done almost all the servicing myself, just oil and filter every 10000 miles and a new air and pollen filter occasionally. Actually, the pollen filter was changed for probably the first time in the cars life earlier this year.

I've had the dreaded glow plug light flashing occasionally, happened a few times at the start of last winter but it hasn't come on since I went round and wriggled all the wires and unplugged and replugged all the connectors a few times to wipe the corrosion of the contacts.

Its still running well. The drivers seat is starting to show some very minimal signs of sagging, though I suspect with a heavier driver it would be a bit worse. I'm 11.5 stone so less than average, though the right weight for my average height.

Its looking a little scuffed, though a new windscreen before the last MOT which cost me £180 has improved the visibility out of the car.

It still does about 47 to the gallon, so I guess I've put in over a thousand gallons of diesel into it. With fuel at £6 a gallon that's a sobering thought but it would be a lot worse with a petrol. Tyre wear has been good though I don't bother keeping records I thin I've got through one set of rears and a couple of sets of fronts.
Read more

injection doc

Thanks spikeyhead, I have alway's stuck to BP only we are on our 5 TDCI ford & none have been any problem so may be there is a link with the fuel as I have alway's belived.
Inj Doc

Bryanc

My focus Ghia 1.8 tdci wipers sometimes work while switched off, also they sometimes stop half way up the screen, then continue after a few seconds and work normally after that, has anyone else had or have this fault? The problem with this type of fault is that the dealer so far cant find the cause of it as they cant see it, they have checked over the wiper circuit and cant see any problem, the car is due to in for a more detailed investigation soon but any help with this problem would be appreciated.

Also my temperature guage is still working ok re: my erratic reading problem .

Read more

ibanez074

Hi all,

firstly, great forum very helpful!

During the last couple of months my focus has started to idle very lumpy and if not given any throttle it cuts out. Other than this the car runs perfectly - it's just when idling. Also, when coming up to a red light or stopping, when i dip the clutch the revs climb to 3000 of its own accord without any throttle only to drop down when i've stopped - then it cuts out.

I've read that this could be an airflow problem. I'm confused as to whether its the mass airflow meter, mass airflow sensor or something else. Can i replace the sensor or does the whole unit need replacing or maybe it's not this at all?! Is it something i could repair or does it need a garage?

Many thanks on any light shed on this annoying problem.

Pete. Read more

ibanez074

I found the problem, its a vacuum hose split. The hose is below the throttle housing and it goes into the inlet manifold. trouble is, one end of it (inlet end) is secured with a strange clip - it looks like a jubilee clip but instead of having a screw head it has what can only be described as a crimped metal bottle top...

Any ideas on how to remove this?!
Thanks, Pete.

civic ima

Hi
I have recently purchased a 2003 Honda Civic IMA. Very few places have this vehicle listed for parts etc. I would like to get a Haynes manual for simple things like i have a blown bulb behind the speedo which i would like to replace, but cannot work out how to remove. Haynes Uk were unable to help, and Honda said it would not help as I should take my car to a main dealer for everything. I know none of the electric wizzy stuff will not be covered, but surely the running gear, interior etc must be from another civic. Thank in advance for any help.

Read more

Sean22

Im changing my head gasket and need to find TDC as stated in the haynes manual for the car. It says "Look through the aperture at the flywheel end of the engine and continue turning crankshaft until the TDC timing mark on the flywheel/driveplate is aligned with the TDC mark on the gearbox bellhousing." I cant see the timing mark on the flywheel/driveplate. Anyone know what this looks like or where it should be?

Many thanks,
Sean Read more

thomp1983

autodata says the timing marks are roughly at 12 o'clock on the camshaft, corresponds to rib on rear timing cover and 6 o'clock on the crankshaft with the crankshaft sprocket keyway at 12 o'clock.

if you really need to find tdc, remove the spark plugs (makes turning over by hand easier) and put a long screwdriver in cylinder 1 hole, as you turn the engine over the piston will push the screwdriver up as it approaches tdc, tdc is the with the screwdriver at it's highest point before it starts to lower, you'll only need to get this roughly right as once you have the head off you can adjust it visibly as you'll be able to see exactly where the piston is, if you do though remember to do the same with the camshaft.

chris

Ian (Cape Town)

Torrential rain on the drive to work today - I was doing 30-40km/h in a 80 zone, as the water was lashing down so hard I could hardly see, and the road was awash, and the car felt a bit skittish hitting the puddles, even with good rubber on the car.
Wipers on full, but unable to cope... a bit hairy, to say the least.

However, some berk in an Audi decides that HE doesn't need to slow down, and goes steaming past me at speed.
Unfortunately for him the road ahead had about 4 inches of water pooled where the drain was unable to cope, along 15m or so of roadway, and he hit it with full force.
Damn! I swear the back of the car jumped up 6 inches as the nose ploughed in. Massive wave of water, splashing out from the car, and he came to a halt very quickly.
Huge amounts of steam coming from under the bonnet as I crawled past him - I suspect more than which would come from a wet engine.

When will people learn?

Read more

peterb

JC made the point about Audis recently on Top Gear. It used to be just S3s, but now it seems to be A4s as well.

Glad I made a last minute decision not to get an A4...

Speedysteve

Are there any PC based driving simulators to help learners / for a bit of fun try driving on a PC simulator?
I have a wheel and pedals (G25 with 3 pedals, so have clutch as I am an avid Grand Prix Legends, GT Legends and Race07 fan with many hours of enjoyable on online racing behind me.

I realise this will never be the same this as a real car or the expensive sims they might use at some of the schools but I might be fun and help my 12 / 14 year olds who are keen.

There is one on Amazon but I have no idea if it is any good...

Any one tried any?

BR
Steve

{dropped make/model choice as wasn't relevant} Read more

TimOrridge

Not so much of a simulator but Midtown Madness 2 by Microsoft is quite realiistc. I spent hours on that game years ago with pedals and wheels. It has lanes trafficlights and AI react to your movements, It has the full city of cisco ina nd the golden gate bridge

maximus

Seeing the post today on roof bars reminded me to post this warning. I have a large top box and last year whilst putting it on I noticed some light coming through the base. This turned out to be where the front mounting plate usually sat,what appeared to have occured was that the box has been lifted by windforce while driving. Only by luck did I see this before the box could have been ripped off-with probable disastrous effect. What I have done is strengthen the area with steel plates.If you're about to put your box on please check.
P.S. I've noticed that some more recent box's already have the area reinforced/obviously a problem.Good luck.
Read more

doctorchris

He he. Now that could be called a top box, or should it be called a kennel?

DavidHM

Anyone got any suggestions for a new engine + old bodyshell challenge?

I reckon a Renault Supercinq 1.7 Monaco with a 1.5 dCi engine, chipped to 120ish bhp, would do the job nicely.

Does anyone fancy building one? I can't find a Monaco but I have found a suitable looking GTX as a donor car. Read more

retgwte

dont know about this challenge? is this something he said on the show or in his column?

if you want light/fast/economical

you need a mega light car

something like the Citroen AX, which was eventually forced off the road by being too light to have any chance of passing the new crash tests

stick a modern fast 16 valve engine in it, maybe the one out of a Suzuki Swift Sport would be good

would be a pocket rocket but not very safe