May 2008
I have a 04 mondeo 2 litre TDCI, The problem is that the glow plug light starts flashing and the car loses power, fault clears when you restart the car, its been and had the injectors redone and it is still happening, the mechanics don't know what the problem is and its showing a new fault code P0251, does any body know what the problem is? thanks for any help. Read more
I have a problem with the wipers on a 2006 Astra van. When the wipers are switched on with a dry screen the wipers sweep is ok. If they are switched on with a wet screen they start hitting the bulkhead and slipping off the side of the screen. I have tried altering the wiper arms but to get the banging to stop the wipers end up parking too high on the screen.
Any ideas on what it could be? Read more
Only way I knew is because I wanted to park the wipers vertically on my Vectra-C to hold a sheet on the windscreen one evening. One quick RTFM and I found out how to. Having previously downloaded a 2005 Astra manual from Vauxhall's website, I saw the proceedure was the same (apart from on the Vectra it's 8 seconds, not 4).
Late Edit. Appears that we've hi-jacked gluesniffers question. Can anyone help with his question please
Hi,
I am after some advise after storing my brother's Mini Cooper S in my garage. I moved it into the garage a month or so ago and it started no problem but I went to move this weekend and it wouldn't start.
All the dash lights came on and it made a clicking sound when I turned the key but the car did not start. Any ideas of what to look at or will I have to get it recovered to a local dealer and plugged in?
Thanks in advance,
R Read more
Try jump-leads.
>>
But "seriously" read the manual first.
Re Focus / Mondeo, there are very specific instructions on what to do before removing the leads and it is not what you can guess. All about not damaging electronics.
Similar requirements may apply to your car
Hi all, my sons Astra (1.6 16v 44k) is making a bad rattling sound. he took it into Vx main dealer but they told him to bring it back when it gets worse - not something I want to do.
The Vx techy said it might be the alternator tensioner but I'm worried in case it's more serious (water pump etc). The noise is coming from the belt side but I can't work out if it's from the top or the bottom of the engine.
A family member poured water over the alt belt and the sound went away and was running smooth until a couple of hours later (probably dried out).
It's been booked in to Vx for a cam belt kit change on Saturday but I'm not sure if I should change the water pump too - son can only afford a cheapy new one from ebay rather than the £100+ Vx part.
Here's a link to a video I took of the problem (I removed the cam cover) oh and ignore the train going past at the start of the video
www.youtube.com/watch?v=3QdeSe8I_Ac
Anyone have any ideas?
Cheers
Ninja Read more
this is for the the cam sensor so it knows when to fire the plugs and being able to read a missfire, which belt was the water poured on to cam or alt/aircon have you tried disconecting alt belt what was the out come still noisey or noise gone ?
I often hear that one should not load the car is such a way that rear view (through rear window) is blocked.
If the goods are securely fastened, what is the problem if rear window is blocked?
Vans and lorries don't have rear view.
Read more
Dates back to the days when wing/door mirrors were an optional extra rather than a standard fitting....
But still good advice if you can do it - less blind spots!
Hi,
My Focus TDCi loses power under load...
- up hills
- along flat straights
- on twisty roads
- any time when power / boost is being generated.
No warning lights or fault codes.
AIR FLOW SENSOR?
THROTTLE POTENTIOMETER?
EGR VALVE?
Would be forever grateful for any advice.
Cheers,
Martin Read more
No mechanic needed...just removed the connection from the ECU to the common-rail, sprayed some contact cleaner (stuck the performance chip from my Clio dCi - yes they DO fit) and the problem just disappeared!! I ran it for a whole week with the engine never missing a beat. I shall soon remove the chip and retest to see what cured it - although I strongly doubt it was the chip that fixed it!
am a young family man with 2 kids that presently lives in London but will start working in Birmingham in 2 months time, so i need a reliable car that will be doing at least 400miles every week.
Unfortunately my budget is limited to five to seven thousand pounds and the rest of the family (my wife and kids) have told me they want me to buy a family saloon cars.
Based on the reliability index Honda ACCORD 2003 to 2008 model seems to be the most reliable car in this bracket. However, my budget could only buy those with high mileage from 80,000 upwards. Due to reliability, I think I prefer ex fleet to privately used from supermarket dealers. Is that right? Any other options?
More specifically , I have found one petrol engine one with 2 previous owner and 82,000 mileage for 5,300 pounds but with official combined fuel consumption of 35mpg while I found another accord diesel based with 52,000 mileage for 7,300pounds with combined fuel consumption of 54mpg. Which one should I choose?
Read more
You can get 50mpg out of the diesel - I managed it with two, one over 120k and one loaner over 3k. Both were execs so at the heavy end. Run it at over 70 and you will not achieve it though - fill to fill my lowest was around 43mpg and that was at a little over the speed limit on a French autoroute fully loaded.
The diesel apparently suffers a manifold cracking problem (mine was changed at around 95k).
Great car but the sat nav on the current version ruins the ergonomics.
Thinking of getting one of these on employers scheme and perhaps hanging on after 3 years.
I have read HJ's guide,but wondered if anyone had any ideas about reliability of the engine, and why they got rid of the 85 bhp model. About a 1.6 diesel/100bhp would be more ideal
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The series 2 model just launched has a 5 year warranty - so make sure they don't fob you off with the 'old' model! :-)
Hi all,
I have just changed to a MK 5 Tdi and there is no AM reception whatsoever on the radio which is very frustrating when wanting to listen to the footie.
As there is no visible ariel on the car - except a little thing stuck on the rear screen which looks like a mobile phone ariel - I really don't know where to start.
Any suggestions? Read more
You can run diagnosis on the aerial using the dealer system, or VAG-COM.
The aerial is built into the rear screen, but they were so rubbish, that later/current MkVs have gone back to roof aerials!
Hi there,
I was wondering if anyone can help with my problem please? The motor went on our central locking system for the boot AGES ago, but it's now affecting both doors on the drivers side. The back door won't unlock AT ALL and the drivers door often has to be opened with the key. Yesterday I couldn't even do that because it kept locking again when I tried to open the door.
What I want to know is how to change the motor (if indeed this is the problem) and how much I'm likely to have to pay for one? I've seen some on eBay for around £20, but I'm not sure if it's the one I need. The car was made in November 1996 so I'm guessing it's a B model.
Thanks in advance. Read more
My Cavalier boot lock central locking stopped working when the cable than runs through the rubber flexible tubing near the hatch hinges frayed through & I guess your doors (having an intermittent fault) are going the same way.
dmac
Quite a complicated business explaining the origin of a P0251 on a TDCi.
On the face of it; it doesn't relate to a TDCi as it's a spill-valve, or rotor, code from a TDDi-type injection pump.
You should have had a P1211 code as well - yes? The P0251 is generated as an EOBD equivalent to a pre-cursor code to that P1211 - Delphi codes 45 and 46; "Rail pressure control trim/error."
If either of those exist for long enough, or occur often enough; it sets P1211; but while it's still adding them up, you'll get P0251.
There you are - clear as mud.
Basically; the fuel pressure in the rail is not as commanded. This could be an inlet metering valve fault; a high-pressure pump fault; [aargh!] an injector leaking-off excessive amounts; a fuel filter blocked; [common] air getting into the feed - that sort of thing.
Proper testing needed to define which of those reasons is the true one - if any.