May 2008
Hi Guys
I have an Oct 2004 Scenic 1.6 VVT
A couple of days ago the service light came on and the diplay read 'CHECK EMISSIONS'.
I took it to the Renault dealer today and they have diagnosed that it needs a new de-phaser pulley. My car is 6 months out of warrenty and although it only has 24k miles on the clock its going to cost me £1098 to fix!!!!
There is absolutely NO way I can afford this and I have asked the dealers to ring Renault and find out if they can do this work or at least contribute to the cost as it is a known fault (wish I'd known before I bought it!!). Does anyone know how likely Renault are to do this for me? I'm at my wits end and I really don't know what to do. I can't even sell or part ex my car with this problem :0(
Any replies would be appreciated!
Vics
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I am not sure what the exact problem is but here are the symptoms
Cold Start: Starts fine, idle sounds good, bit jumpy until it warms up. Temp gauge often does not move as I only drive 5 min to work.
Warm Start (e.g. 5 min after cold start above): Starts fine, idle sounds good, temp gauge rises rapidly, and will reach 3/4 on gauge. Cooling fan may or may on come on. When stopped idle remains (quite) fast. Engine temp rises in compartment. All coolant hoses and inflow manifold appear to get uniformly very hot.
Sometimes after the temp has risen I am gettign overrun when I turn off the iginition, but this is not consistent. I am not using the car for long journeys at the moment as I am not confident the temp will behave.
I think the fast idle is causing the excessive temperature which is causing the over run
Fuel economy is rubbish (<20 mpg) and used to be quite good 30+ mpg
I have purchased a new cooling fan switch.
I have checked the air intake vacuum is working
I have cleaned the carburettor with carb cleaner
I have replaced air filter
All vacuum lines I have examined seem intact
From what I have read it is an 2E3 Pierpoint carb, and any of the following could be the problem
Waxstat
Thermo numatic time valve
Throttle position control diaphragm
Choke pull-down diaphragm
But I am not sure how to begin to eliminate what is going wrong
Any help/ideas appreciated
Thanks
Peter Read more
I have the original problem back again, car fine when cold, once warmed up (to half on gauge at which point it is stable) the revs come up and stay up. Fuel economy is rubbish again. Also discoved oil in air filter compartment (from crank case ? How does this happen ?)
Car is 1300 MK2 Golf Poerburg 2E3 carb (which does not have a waxstat)
Any thoughts appreciated
Top of the morning to you all
I'm idly wondering if any of you folks know why recovery trucks biff along with their amber beacons flashing when they have vehicles on the back.
Obviously I can understand them being on while the vehicle is being loaded but once the vehicle is safely on the back, surely the hazard has gone?
As I say, just curious. Yes, 'curious' is the word that many people would use in connection with me... :-)
Cheers. Read more
I"authoritative".
Its the same psychology with hi-viz jackets. Try wearing one in a public place and walk with intention and authority. People will give way to you, just you see!...
I had a new back box and central pipe fitted by a chain / dealer. The new exhaust sounds way louder than the one previously.
It's not a hole or bad fitting - the noise is coming out the tail pipe.
The guy who fitted it said that sometimes there are faulty silencers where the packing was not settled right but in his opinion the noise is as it should be. He said he could order another one but it would probably sound the same.
Could the new exhaust be faulty?
Could he have fitted the wrong part? (maybe the diesel 2.0 is different from the petrol 2.0?)
Are exhausts now louder in general?
This Xsi never sounded meaty but this new exhaust does make it sound a bit boy racer-ish. I wouldn't have minded if I was in my 20's but it is a bit annoying driving around - especially on motorways. Read more
I'm going through pretty much exactly the same experience right now with my 307 xsi. I gave it a couple of hundered miles to soot up - the garage said it would take about 10 (!).
They then replaced the mid section (which I was a bit sceptical about anyway, since I understand the back box does the bulk of the silencing), but that hasn't improved anything and they're now changing the back box (which I'm a bit more hopeful about).
I guess if that doesn't improve things i'll just have to put a few more miles on the clock and see how it goes.. Gives me some hope that people are saying it takes more than a couple of hundred miles to soot up...
I'd be interested to hear if anyone who's had a new main dealer one fitted has noticed the same noise increase.
I recently purchased a V50 Estate Sport and am struggling to get more than 35 mpg from the 2.0 diesel. The Manufactuers stats state that the combined MPG is 47 so as you can see I am way under this.
Does anyone have any experience or advice about returning a car. We have had it approx 6 weeks and it has been back to the garage twice incudiong once for a software upgrade (at this point in increased from 28 MPG to 35 MPG).
I dont think the car is running correctly due to the fuel we are going through.
Cheers
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Richard-no criticism intended here, far from it, but I've got a Golf GTtdi and at an 85 cruise it turns in 50 mpg. Overall, with some leadfoot work, including daily commute which is all B road twisties, it averages 49. I have to wonder what you did with it on the motorway to get down to 44? Certainly don't want to insult your intelligence, but have to wonder whether, as others have said, driving style plays its part? I don't drive for economy, but hard acceleration makes a huge dent in the economy, and I rarely get past 3000rpm - little benefit when you can simply drop back into the meat of the torque, the main reason I have a Diesel. That rich seam of torque coincides with the best economy. I'm sure none of this is news to you, and I hope not to offend you, but as I said, I have to leadfoot the Golf to get down to low forties on B roads, but an A road picks it back up again anyway unless I'm hovering just inside the ton. Which is rare...!
While fitting brake pads to said car I noticed there was only one abs sensor fitted.....would this be the cause of the ABS dash light showing?
Ta in advance
Marty. Read more
How can it be fixed. You have three sensors fitted so clearly ABS is fitted and you have not identified if you have an ABS pump block in the system. Just because you got the light to go it is not the solution, that could be an issue or reconnection. If you car has ABS then it will fail the MOT and you may be driving at risk. Your car has either had a leg changed or has had an accident and a bodge leg has been fitted. Ring Ford with the VIN and have the fitted system ID'd. Do not stick your head in the sand. Regards Peter
I have recently bought a used Fabia. It is an automatic, and intermittently will not pick up revs after slowing down for traffic lights etc. The engine does not cut out, the rev counter shows 900 rpm, but there is no forward motion other than from residual speed. The supplier has investigated and reset the computer, not having found anything wrong. A typical intermittent fault in fact, as it is still doing it. Quite embarrassing when tailgaters get caught unawares! Does any one have any thoughts on this problem please?
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Yes. You were right. Problem got worse and a warning light flashed up on the dash. EPC. Not that I knew what that was until I consulted the handbook. Dealer contacted, car put on some weird machine, and lo and behold, a new brake sensor was needed. And according to a nephew in law of mine, you aren't unable to read. You are just slightly dyslexic! Thanks for your input. It did help.
I've got a fault with the rear wiper of my 306 estate on a W plate. It work when the wiper stalk is turned to wash and wipe. It washes and wipes then stops as normal. However when you put it on to intermittent (1st setting on wiper stalk)..nothing ..nowt zilch...didley squat....
The relay is the about an inch cube (2.5cm). A small solonoid on a board with an eprom on it. (6 pin) 2047029 on the outside.
(just to note i have only just sorted a leaking wiper problem, half the water was running down the back of the boot and in to the back, the foam on the carpet in the back was soaking wet)
I've checked the relay, taken the cover off and it appears to be ok, no sign of water ingress. (see above) With the relay still connected, the cover off, and power on to the veh, if you push the contacts on the solonoid on the relay the wipers work, in both positions 0 (off) and 1 (intermittent).
Now I'm not sure if it is a relay fault, wiring fault or wiper stalk problem. I would like to check there is voltage to the relay from the stalk but not sure which wire is which???
Blue red black and brown in to the relay.. these only come from another connector and different colours into that.
Anyhelp would be much appreciated...
Rocketman Read more
Hi,
Just for future users, I have eventually found time to fix this fault.
The fault was a broken wire on the wiring loom near the tale gate (nearside) - wire snapped in two - obviously over the years the action of opening/closing the tale gate cause it to break.
Thanks
Steve
My Renault Clio 94(L) failed its Mot yesterday due to its emissions.
The same happened last year and eventually the car just passed the emissions, but not before spending more money than the car was worth, and plenty of blood, sweat (My dad's) & tears (Mine)).
Last year my dad first tried the obvious, replacing the air filter, using a cat cleaner etc. When this didn't work, he fitted a new catalytic converter. When this didn't solve it, he then fitted a new lambda sensor. Eventually this enabled the car to just scrape through the Mot emissions test.
My dad thinks its worth looking at the carburettor with a view to replacing it with either a refurbed carb or one via our local scrap yard.
Can anyone please advise as to whether its worth stripping down the carb, with a view to replacing it. (Hoping this cures it, then fingers crossed go for mot retest).
Or taking it to a mechanic (expensive option) to fix.
Or cut my losses and scrap the car.
Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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get engine very hot before doing emissions test, if engine is hot it produces less emissions, same thing happened to me it was on 0.5 and your allowed 0.2
Recently aquired 306 dt
Supect head gasket gone. Mayo in filler cap plus, yesterday I idled car on drive with header tank cap off, after 10mins looked like I'd poured a cappuccino in it!!!!!!
The car has never overheated, I noticed the mayo when checking the oil so I am hoping the head wont be warped and I wont need it skimming
I have read up in the Haynes and it seems like a monster job.
Just after a bit of confidence from anyone who has tackled it before or weather it realy is a garage only job. I consider myself a reasonable diy mechanic and have plenty of mates i could rope in Read more
oh good point peter, the 306 has 5 different thickness headgaskets to allow for getting the compression right due to to tolerance differences when the heads are first produced, the thickness of your gasket is determined by the amount of notches on the bottom right corner. now if you get the head skimmed ideally you should find out how much is removed and buy the appropriate gasket to match (ie. if they remove 20thou you want a gasket the same size as yours plus 20thou etc. those figures aren't accurate.) or you could do as most people do and get the thickest gasket which has 5 notches, the slight change is compression is usually unoticeable and it makes things simpler
chris
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hi we have a 2005 1.6VVT grande scenic. our so called dephaser pulley has failed 3 times previous renault insist that all they can do for us to keep replacing the same part we managed to get an extended warranty from them foc but have decided to take matters further involving trading standards. renault uk and the finance company dont want to know and keep passing the book hoping that we will just accept another repair not this time. hope you got yours sorted