Treat the poor thing to a oil & filter change & a italian tune up!
Try some carb cleaner down it first, it will be a single point injection not a carb although they do look similar.
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C-d
It will indeed be single-point fuel injection; so no carb. [Although it looks like one.]
Angie
Was that a proper cat or a one-year cheapie that was fitted last year? What were the emission readings on the print-out for both natural and fast idle?
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All,
Thanks to all those replying so far with helpful suggestions.
Oldnotbold, incl. all
I tend to do mainly stop start journey's during the week, knowing that's not good, I do treat it to a good run out (motorway) occasionally.
Oops, concentrated so much on emissions forgot to mention it also failed on:
Nearside rear (outer sill) suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded. (not sure how bad this is assuming its welding, I'll be contacting the mot man to find out more)
Screwloose - Many thanks for replying,
I know my reply is a bit like war & peace, but please bear with me, better too much info than not enough.
Not sure how much the new cat cost, by this time, I'd spent more than the car was worth (ie. several mot's, air filter, spark plugs, cat cleaner etc.) & I was in despair.
This is when my dad stepped in, he bought the new cat from www.eurocarparts.com the make being 'react'. The new Lambda sensor was also bought from there. (we didn't discuss money just knew I owed him big time).
We did the Italian tune up on last years mot. I'm sure this helped last years mot.
Recent emission readings are:
(hope I've not over complicated it, typed as per printout):
Fast idle test - FAIL
MIN MAX MEAS RESULT
ENGINE SPEED
2450 2850 2600/MIN PASS
CO 0.30 1.87% FAIL
HC 200 261PPM FAIL
LAMBDA
0.97 1.03 0.942 FAIL
2ND FAST IDLE
CO = 1.97% FAIL
HC = 247PPM FAIL
NATURAL IDLE TEST - PASS
ENGINE SPEED
600 900 810/MIN PASS
CO 0.50 0.08 PASS
OVERALL FAILED
I hope the above makes sense, and that I've not bored you to sleep.
Look forward to your reply. thank you
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Angie
Although the cat is working at natural idle; it isn't managing to clean up the greater flow at 2750. The CO figures are so over the top it's more than just a tired cat - it's running too rich.
The fuelling is ECU-controlled, using several sensors to judge the appropriate amount of fuel to inject on every stroke. Renault fit lots of different control systems - almost at random - and they all have their little foibles. [An engine code like E7F D 700, or similar, would help ID your set-up.]
Generally; check the condition of the rubber hose from the manifold to the flat, plastic, MAP sensor; the coolant temp sensor's resistance and the throttle position sensor's reading. [Yes; this is getting a bit technical.]
Fuel pressure is another possible - but needs test equipment to access and check.
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Screwloose
Thanks for replying i agree its getting technical, your help is really appreciated. My brother will be calling soon and I'll go through the tech part with him.
He did suggest this morn, taking it to a local garage for diagnostic testing for £40. I'm worried about throwing good money after bad, especially if it doesn't highlight the prob.
Not sure if engine code is the same as the engine no. If this helps C144755 or it could be C1447SS (not my handwriting, written in my haynes manual).
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Angie
A few basic electrical and eyeball checks are worth doing first; there are codes and live-data available, but not in any great depth. Don't expect codes; the ECU on this age will be fairly basic and not capable of deep thought - probably hasn't noticed anything wrong. [Remember Windows 3.1 was the latest thing when this was built....]
The engine code is on the front of the block, low down, gearbox end. [A sequence of letters, spaces and numbers, as the example above.]
Does your Haynes have the basic component tests in it?
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Screwloose
After speaking with my brother and going through the car's history. We remembered sometime before last years mot, a problem with the exhaust, front pipe/downpipe.
My brother took it to a garage who struggled to attach the new bit of exhaust to the manifold (as manifold in very poor condition) he did say 'He would do his best to fit it but really we were looking at new manifold'.
We are both thinking maybe a leak on the exhaust (manifold area) is the culprit. And if so fixing this would cost more than the car's worth.
I'm not sure now what on earth to do. Feel like cutting my losses, pick up a new 'used' car for a grand and hope I choose a good one.
Or is it better the devil you know, than the devil you don't.
Might be better off with horse & cart or Shanks's pony.
Many thanks for your time and advise this afternoon greatly appreciated.
Angie
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Angie
That's very significant; any air leak into the exhaust manifold area would send the oxygen sensor scatty.
Maybe a tube of exhaust putty might give a temporary cure.
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Screwloose
Hi there, hope you don't mind, thought I'd keep you updated on the clio emissions saga so far.
My brother in law has had a good look under car, ruled out exhaust leak. He took out the lambda sensor, although it was very sooty, it doesn't look like it has been heat damaged.
Going to take it out for a blast down the motorway with reddex added, hoping this will help. Then its back to mot station, who have kindly said they would put it on the gas machine and see what difference if any.
Fingers crossed for me,
Kind regards
Angie
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get engine very hot before doing emissions test, if engine is hot it produces less emissions, same thing happened to me it was on 0.5 and your allowed 0.2
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