April 2008
Have the auto lights and wipers been standard on the Dynamique model since its launch. Only ask as the local dealer's got one in the showroom, in what's listed as Dynamique spec, but it's not got auto lights or wipers. The rest of the spec appears to match up but not this bit. Just wondering if it's, say, a 2006/7 model and they introduced the auto lights and wipers on the recent models. Going for a drive tomorrow but thought I'd got pre-armed with some information if possible! Read more
I need to replace the alternator and its belt on my 214 K series twin cam but cannot see how the steering pump belt tensioner works (- this belt needs to come off to get the alternator one on) I'm assuming there must be a pinch bolt somewhere and an adjuster of some type? Any pointers and advice most welcome.
thanks. Read more
There's another thread on here about HPI checks but I think these are different. It would be interesting to hear the experiences of others.
I bought privately a Volvo 960 Estate in 2000, 5 years old, 85,000 miles. Since it was in Suffolk, a 3 hour trip from me, I had the a well known motoring organisation check it for me.
They missed: rear shocks on the way out, needed replacing within 6 months [forget the cost but not small]; chip on front windscreen sufficiently annoying to need replacing [£150, again from memory]; aircon leaking such that there was no cooling [£300 to fix].
It was a good car for me at the time, but their check wasn't good value!
{Company name substituted for something more general} Read more
Just bought a Honda Shuttle 2.3 LS (1999). Has 96000 miles. Took a bit of a risk because it has a sketchy service history (I know, I know).
Anyway, It seems like a great car. The auto box selects reverse, drive ect. really quickly and very smooth from park or neutral and when driving changes are very smooth.
Only problem I can find is when sitting at about 40 - 50 and floor the accelerator, it drops to 2nd and will climb to just over 60mph (just under 6000rpm I think) then just hold 2nd gear. Lifting off the pedal slightly then makes it change up.
I don't know, maybe this is normal? Don't think so though.
Car is going to my local indy at the end of the week for a full service. Will ask hime to change all fluids incl. auto oil, brake fluid coolant etc. Don't mind spending quite a bit on this as I bought it cheap and love it.
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I have a similar model of 1998 vintage. It has proved very reliable, but not free of expense - driver's door window wiring fault at 66 k - recurring rear brake caliper problem (finally resulting in renewing it this summer at a cost of over £300 for the part) - ongoing gearchange fault with 3rd to 4th. The latter fault is barely apparent if you lift off the accelerator a little to change up, but otherwise it changes up in a notchy fashion allowing the engine to rev between gears. I am pretty sure that this problem can be rectified by having the gearbox ecu cleared and reprogrammed, as I had a similar problem with a VW Caravelle auto. This fault on the Honda appeared, I think, as a result of another problem when the cruise control went pop whilst on the French autoroute. I understand that these ecu's are, to an extent at least, reprogrammed by driving style, and can suffer problems in this way. When I can afford it, the car is going to our local Honda dealership for a new cam belt (£200 for anyone that's interested) and re-programming. Incidentally, the cruise control still dosn't work, and I can't find the fuse. I'll post the result.
According to the Haynes manual the rear brake drum should slide of the wheel studs once the wheel nuts have been undone and it rotates freely.
However, on my car there is a flanged cap over the central hub nut which stops this happening.
When I try to remove this with a hammer and screwdriver I just damage the flange rather than loosen the cap.
Do I need a special tool to remove the cap? Read more
thanks
Watching a car on Ebay, I had a slight smell of rat, so I checked it on the RAC HPI check system. Recorded as scrapped, last change of keeper was a year ago, yet the seller, who I have spoken to, reckons he's had it a month to tide him over, and bought it from a dealer who had taken it as a PX.
I'm curious how it can be recorded as scrapped, when it seems to have a recent MoT, as it's MoTd until March 2009.
Is it possible that the DVLA data is wrong? Read more
I saw a car on Auto Trader couple of months ago and wanted to buy it for my Mrs. Went to see the car and then did HPI and HPI report was the car is a write-off whereas the owner didn't mention anything about it, the car was repaired well but even then its a write-off. When asked him he just drove off saying that I was a time waster!
I need to no if anyone out there can help me with my Ford Puma
i have a problem getting a part my power steering hose pipe is goosed i have tried ford for the part but they said that the company that supplied the part to does not exist anymore i have a ford puma 1.7 zetec engine the part that is goosed its the hose pipe that goes in to the pump with the wee electrical flow censer it has no air con so if anyone out there no were i can get one can the please let me no asp thanx rob
text type talk corrected Read more
Have you tried Puma People website ?
Second that - they were really helpful when my wife had her Puma.
Hi. Can anyone help me finding an engine diagram for my 1993 Lucida's 3C-T turbo diesel engine?
I need the camshaft and injector pump markings to replace cambelt.
Cheers
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the estima owners club should be able to tell you where the markings are, there's quite a good write up on doing the timing belt on the 2.2 diesel lump
chris
Strange topic I know, but 7 months ago I bought a Mazda 626 2.0 SE petrol 134bhp (manual) with 96k on the clock. I drive in a 'spirited' fashion when road conditions allow, have no qualms about overtaking queues of slower traffic on A roads when safe to do so, and cruise on motorways at 85mph.
I do a limited amount of urban driving, and I am sure my reading of the road ahead, with subsequent lack of heavy braking helps, but I still manage to average 37mpg week in, week out, even with climate control permanently switched on and a fully loaded 6 disc CD player playing loudly.
Is there anyone else out there whose fuel consumption has exceeded expectations...all I have read about to date are BRs whose consumption has been disappointing.
The car runs exclusively on Shell (I dont think this makes a difference, but its cleaning qualities were recommended) and has new Michelin Energy tyres fitted.
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My 1993 626 2.0i regularly gets 38-40+ mpg over the 4 yrs and 80k I've had it, and thats daily mixed driving (cold engine on motorway, town, country roads and hills). 360 miles from a full fill from empty (41-42litres) is typical. I once got 400 miles from a tankful. I dont do anything special, and its running on a mix of random second hand tyres and whatever brand of petrol is nearest. Worst I ever got was 31mpg driving round London when it was badly misfiring (HT leads gone) and running on 3 cylinders.
I hope someone can point me in the right direction. My Golf 2.0 GT TDI has had loss of power on two occassion. Then off/on with ignition and it corrects itself. It has done 27K Miles and is literally in threshold of the 3 year warranty which i am currently arguing about with VW, another Story. I took it for ECU at VW garage they said it was Turbo. When i asked for the report it turns out no fault number came up, i asked dealership how do you know it is Turbo and their response was engine sounds like it, not good enough as i may be liable for £1800. I made enquiries and others told me it could be the AIR FLOW METER, £40 to buy 30 mins to fit, huge price difference.
Can someone enlighten me to the probable fault and how I can find out for sure what the fault is. So far to say it could be Turbo because it sounds like it is not good enough, especially as the car has corrected itself and is running as it should with no Turbo noise evident to me and others. Thankyou Read more
An Air flow meter for £40 is unlikeky to be a genuine one(even if the box looks good) and can introduce more problems than it cures.
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Shocks can fail at any time. Even on brand new cars it's not been unknown for shocks to fail early on. Hardly fair to blame them for something that can fail overnight.
Was the chip big enough to fail an MOT? If not, then that's why they didn't bother mentioning it in their report.
How cold was the weather on the day of the inspection? AC doesn't work if the ambient temperature is too cold.